Upgrading your injectors to a larger size by itself will not give you more power. Think of them as a "supporting mod" or an enabler if you will. They simply supply more fuel for the larger amount of air you'd be sucking in/pushing in.
In fact, if you're staying stock, its usually better that you stay with smaller injectors. They tend to provide better atomization of the fuel.

For 550cc injectors, you'll definitely need a piggyback ECU system at the very least. 550s really are too big for an adjustable fuel pressure regulator or other type of mechanical trickery (like hacked MAF system). 550 is even kinda large for piggyback. That's getting into stand-alone territory (like NISTUNE).

Was told to post a link to my thread in here for help...thanks in advance.
rebuilt-ka24de-runs-very-poorly-t583910.html

I responded in your other thread so people can follow along if they ever search for the same issue. Welcome to NICO!

Got a idling issue with my KA motor and was told to post the link here for more help, thanks alot PapaSmurf. kade-short-idle-loud-knock-when-it-stops-t584296.html
Not realy new to nico but couldnt figure out what my password was when I came home in sep, been a member since 2010.

I replied to your thread.
What was your old username? I can probably send you a new password and get it back if you'd like.

First off like to say hi I am new to this forum .. I am looking for some insight on what I need , start off with I just bought my first 240 about 8 months ago and it wasn't in the best shape but no matter love I anyway the question is my ka24de popped on me and I am in the process of buying a engine, can't find a ka near me so I found a company that imports sr20's and I was wondering what else I would need beside the motor, trans,ecu,wiring harness, and ignitor if I could get. Positive feedback it would be much appreciated thank

I know for certain you'll need a radiator as well. The gooseneck on the SR is in a different location than the KA.
You'll also probably need the downpipe for the exhaust. I'm no SR expert, so it would definitely be a good idea to check the SR forum as well.

sr20det-forum-rear-drive.html

I have a 5 speed transmission in my 90 s13. It sometimes gets stuck in gear. I have to double clutch or just pull it out of gear. Lately I put it in gear and as long as I apply pressure to the shifter it sound like its grinding on something. does anyone know what is going on?

What do you mean it gets stuck in gear? Like you push the clutch and when you try to pull it out of gear, it hesitates and is very difficult to pull out?
If you hear a grinding while you are shifting, that often means your synchros are going bad. I typically don't try to force it "more in gear" while driving, so I' not sure what that would mean.

sorry i'll try and explain it better. I have noticed this problem happens mainly in 1st ad 2nd gear. It will go into gear just fine without any grinding but it wont come out of gear. Sometimes double clutching will work but when it doesn't I have to forcefully pull it out of gear. It then pops out (no grinding). I have noticed that this happens while im at a stand still or at low speeds. It will grind sometimes when I go into 3rd. Then other thing I have noticed is that once in gear if I apply pressure to the shifter left or right it makes a slight grinding noise. Thank you for helping me out I appreciate your time.

Your clutch might not be fully engaging/disengaging. Do you have a soft/spongy pedal, or is the engagement point really close to the floor?
If all that checks out, you could just have a bad trans.

Hello! Old member here with a noob question. My local junkyard doesn't have any 240's and i need a right rear brake caliper. Would anyone know if any other models used the same caliper? Stanza, Sentra, Hardbody?

I have a 1990 240sx se.

Thanks for any replies!

Not that I know of.
Why not just go to Autozone or Rock Auto or something?

Im new here and have heard many good things about nico club. I just recently bought a new vlsd for my 91 240 sx. I was told by the previous owner that it came out of a s13. It is a vlsd as i check to see if both output shafts spin the the same direction. After purchasing it (only paid 100$) i noticed that the two holes used to mount it to the frame have rubber bushings. I was told by a friend that it probly came out of an s14 and i would have to change a few things in order to get it to fit. I have a few pictures and just wanted to know if it would just bolt right up or if i needed to do some modifications.

Let me know what you guys think Im getting antsy to start laying tracks. lol

You should be able to slap that bad boy right up in there. The only thing I know of that you have to look out for going from an R200 to an R200v is the output shafts. Most standard R200s had the 6 bolt halfshaft flange, while most R200vs had 5 bolt. Your's looks good though! Just make sure it matches the one you've got in the car right now.

thanks man, i was looking at the distance from the rubber mounts to the flange where it bolts to the driveshaft, this new differential seems maybe a 1/4 inch to 1/2 longer. wasnt sure if it was just me or not. but im gonna try to slap it on today. ive heard that i might need longer bolts. do you know anything about that?

Nope, I haven't heard of that either. Mine was a direct swap.

yeah man i just got the new bolts and washers and it bolted right up. thanks for all the help i had fun doing circles in the parking lot today. i think my next set up is an upgraded clutch, any suggestions?

Spec is or was a forum sponsor here, so that's always nice.
I run a centerforce dual friction in my 240, and an ACT 6 puck in my miata. Both are pretty nice. Are you putting down more power than stock, or is your clutch currently slipping?

I recently bought a 91 240sx and was going to buy new wheels and tires. Just wondering if 17x9.5 would fit or should I go with something else

I wouldn't think you'd have a problem, but obviously it depends on offset (and you might have to roll a fender or something).

Check the wheel and tire forum for more details.
nissan-tires-wheels-brakes-suspension.html

I believe they are +12 offset .also wondering of would be a good idea to go with coilovers instead of just lower ing springs. I'll check the wheel and tire thread though thanks

Yeah I always advocate going for coilovers instead of just lowering springs.
The ability to adjust camber (or caster, if you mount the top hat that way) is worth the price of admission.

Well guys i need a little bit of help, im doing a manual swap into my 89 hatch< the trans i am buying is coming out of a 92 dohc hatch, im just curios on what flyweel and clutch i need, the 89 or 92?

They're the same.

Hi, I'm new to the 240sx world and I finally have my very own 1991 240sx with a Sr20det JDM engine swapped project car and it needs a lot of work. I was wonderinf if anyone knew the difference between kyb oem replacement strut and kyb oem performance replacement strut? Is the ride still comfortable with kyb performance replacement ones or does it get stiffer.

If I'm not mistaken, the performance ones provide the same dampening as the OE style but they are adjustable.

Hello, I posted a thread and someone said you (Papasmurf) would be of help. Here's a link to my thread. Thanks! 240sx-shutting-off-problem-and-over-hea ... 86275.html

Responded!

Hello,

First post here, new member.

I have read over the forums in general for the last few months. I have a 98 240sx in pretty close to mint condition; only 80k miles. I got it with 33k.



Recently I have started doing all the maintenance I can think of to prep it for boost.
I have completed: transmission flush, radiator flush, oil change, plugs, wires, distributor, hoses, belts, fuel filter, and water pump.

I have planned: Rear end flush, power steering flush, alignment (pulls to the right), compression test, and some random little things here and there.

My first question is: does anyone have any tips for getting the rear end drain/fill plugs out?? They are in there good. I will probably have to drop the exhaust to get leverage, but even still, I used a breaker bar and a 1/2 drive and could not make it budge.. either direction.

Second: is there any bit of maintenance I should also look into before I boost?

Third is kind of a funny question.. this is just a thought.. I like installing things. I want to do it as often as I can. So.. Is there any reason I can't hook up a turbo kit (manifold, turbo, oil lines, downpipe, intercooler) and an Exhaust but NOT connection the air lines, thus NOT boosting the car yet, simply installing.

In my mind this would allow the exhaust to flow out and spin the turbo which just dumps air into the engine bay. Why do this? Simply to get it out of the way and to be able to install a bit here and there before the final tune. And not have to pay 1000s at once with one big install. Also, it would let me see the turbo in action for a bunch of miles so that if it is out of balance or leaking I would see it. Plus it would be fun. And the intercooler mounting will be out of the way. I want to install 3in exhaust, but it would be a waste of time and money to get NA headers or a stock-to-3in adapter installed. Why not knock out the total exhaust system at once?

So if that question makes sense and works out, what else can I install over time before the last tune (and only tune that is. I won't tune until the very end).
255 fuel pump? Will that be okay on stock injectors?
550 Injectors no.. have to shelf until end
Z32 MAF I have read no.. shelf
AEM Wideband O2? That should be okay right?
300zx TT fuel filter should be fine.
Head gasket and Studs should be okay.

I would like to do a little at a time, installing what I can get away with before the final tune, thus, in my mind, I should be able to hook the intercooler pipes to intake and turbo, pop in injectors and maf.. tune and go. A quick final install.

The turbo is internal wastegate, so I have a BOV as well.. anything I am missing for turbo install? Nistune installed and tuned at the shop I will use. I have looked at several turbo parts lists on forums and think I have it all. Looking for 250hp or so.

I know several questions here, thanks for indulging me. Let me make it simpler:
1-Does anyone have any tips for getting the rear end drain/fill plugs out??
2-Is there any bit of maintenance I should also look into before I boost?
3-Is there any reason I can't hook up a turbo kit but not install it?
4-Any obvious missing parts for turbo project?