Stereo FAQ

[krimsonviper]

I will add things to this post as I learn them or come across to address them

Ok, so in my 3 days of finding and viewing this section of nicoclub.com I've noticed that people ask the same question over and over with no real way of finding their answer by searching, so in a way to cut back car audio noob questions i have presented this thread

Repeating question #1What brand should I go with?

Repeating answer #1We cant really answer this, but to push you onto a better path, ask yourself "How much do I want to spend/Can I spend?". You tend to get what you paid for in the car audio world. Also, another reason why this cannot be answered is because every ear is different, every person has a different preferrence. Some like really sharp highs, others great bass. Dont buy you're speakers from the internet, you cant hear them before you buy them, plus most companies will not uphold their warranty(most last about 3 months anyway w/o professional install). A decent car audio set up will cost about $700(a deck that has one RCA input, 1 amp to run a subwoofer, 1 subwoofer and inside speakers)

Repeating question #2What size speaker am I allowed to have?

Repeating answer #2Heres the link if you want to stick with stock size speakershttp://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/12043You can always make a bigger speaker set-up by doing the needed customization for it. YOU'RE GOING TO HAVE TO FIND THAT OUT YOURSELF. It all depends on how much chopping you're wanting to do, there really isnt much difference in this department as in custom fabbing parts to put a 350z engine into a 240sx. Here's a link that helps out S13's with the front(front template to change size)zerothread/183809

If you use MDF in the door, remember to seal it with paint or some sort of water protectant to help prevent it from falling apart over time.

Question #3What are ohms?

Answer #3Each sub has an ohm(Ω) setting. Ohms effect the efficiency of amplifier and they can also affect the speakers as well. You always want to have the resistence(ohms) at the amplifiers designed efficiency. Don't mix ohm resistence.

This can help you with choosing and wiring your subs:Rockford Fosgate Calculator.

Question #4What wires do I need?

Answer#4This depends upon your set up.1 amplifier, new speakers, subwoofer(s), and a deck that has at least 1 RCA input will need:1 2-channel RCA wire, 10-14 gauge (AWG) for subwoofer connection to amp, a remote wire(18awg or whatever. You just need to get your amp a 12volt signal when the deck is on), power wire, ground wire. You can buy an amp kit that consists of power wire,ground wire, remote wire, and a fuse. Typically, amp kits can be a minimum of $50. Another amp (possibly a 4 ch amp) will require more wire and RCAs.

You can use one wire for multiple amp set ups, but it will require thicker power wire and it increases in size the more amps you use. Distribution blocks are required for this method. There are different types of wire companies. Use your own discretion if you can't tell the difference in brands, and remember to run your RCA wires on the opposite side of your power wire(s)

4 AWG wire is pretty universal for small set ups(Less than 1000 watts.).Ground wire must be significantly shorter than power wire(1-2FT total), AND the same size gauge(AWG).

Question #5I want to keep a stock look but still add amplifiers, how do I accomplish this?

Answer #5A Line Out Converter(LOC). A line out converter is basically plugged in by connecting the stock speaker output wires into the LOC and then creates RCA inputs for the amplifier.

Question #6What type of box should I get?

Answer #6This is a very difficult subject to explain.

Bandwidth boxes target specific frequencies and are mostly used for competitions and can produce the most SPL(Sound Pressure Level). The good thing about bandwidth boxes, is that they can be designed for a large target frequency. Above or below target range and the sound can become distorted(Sound Quality=SQ) and/or lose SPL. SPL doesn't necessarily mean "deep notes." SQ is not it's best fit either.

Ported boxes are very much like bandwidth boxes, and cheaper. Below its tuned frequency, they are notorious for over-excursion of(blowing) subs that don't have the power supply to prevent it.

Sealed boxes require more power to reach ported and bandwidth/pass boxes SPL, and are mainly for SQ.

You can build your own box using either MDF(your most basic box) and/or fiber glassing( zerothread/240404 )

Question #7What type of amplifier do I need?

Answer #7Depends upon its use, there are 1ch(mono block) 2 ch, 4 ch, etc.

Theres also different types of classes:A, A/B, and DA - Efficient for mids and highsA/B - A hybrid between A and B classes. More efficient in signal quality than either alone.D - Common usage is for subs.

Question #8What are components?

Answer #8A type of speaker where the tweeter(highs) mobile from the main cone(mids). When this is done you can mount the highs(typically a singers voice) to a place where you can hear it better. You gain less distortion with the seperation of signals. Components require more power than your basic co-axial speakers.

Question #9Is it bad if there are words coming from my sub? How do I stop it?

Answer #9YES! THIS DOES EXTREME DAMAGE TO YOUR SUB! Your subwoofer was not built to handle this. Use your decks internal XO(cross-over), buy an external XO, or use the amplifier's XO, cross over,(switch or push button) to low-pass and drop the hertz(hz) to 80.

Question #10What kind of deck should I get? What do I need for the replacement?

Answer #10Depends on what you want. Need front, rear, and sub (3 RCA inputs)? Do you want navigation? When you're replacing a deck always keep in mind that you might need to buy a fitment kit in order to fit the new deck/nav-unit. You're also going to need a wiring harness. If you have bose, it can be a b**** to just replace a pair of speakers or just replacing the head unit. If this occurs, you're better off with replacing the whole system and using an LOC.

Capacitors do put more stress on your alternator. Caps are basically a 2nd battery, only used in the hard notes of a song and lessen the strain on your amplifiers voltage stability. If you're looking for a cheap way to help make your system a little more efficient and less strain on your alternator, do "The Big 3."

Good Luck in your car audio adventures!
Modified by krimsonviper at 11:47 PM 2/13/2010

[xekushnr]

I've also seen people ask which colors mean what on an aftermarket harness.

12v ignition: Red12v constant: YellowGround: BlackPower Antenna: BlueAmp Turn-on (remote): Blue/WhiteIllumination: Orange (usually cut and taped)Dimmer: Orange/White (usually cut and taped)Right Front (+): GrayRight Front (-): Gray/BlackLeft Front (+): WhiteLeft Front (-): White/BlackRight Rear (+): VioletRight Rear (-): Violet/BlackLeft Rear (+): GreenLeft Rear (-): Green/Black

[xekushnr]

Here is the radio harness color codes for ALL Nissans from '85-'94 and the new harnesses for all Nissans '95 and up.

http://www.robzienert.com/xeku...g.pdf

[horubeets]

The link is now dead.

[xekushnr]

My buddy who hosted it is switching servers currently. Here ya go;

http://www.installdr.com/Harne...g.pdf

[horubeets]

Sweet! Thank you.