Shocks & StruTS opinions / questions
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whatchugot12
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Wed Jun 25, 2014 5:32 pm
- Car: 1997 Nissan Pathfinder XE 2wd
- Location: Nashville, Tennessee
Shocks & StruTS opinions / questions
97' Pathfinder 2wd and basically stock but the stereo and upgraded tires to stock size. Dealer ando myself believe the truck is in really good shape for 194,500 miles but I need some help on suspension. I want it to handle really good but budget in mind. What's the best deal for a non 4wd???
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atraudes
- Posts: 1106
- Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2013 7:46 pm
- Car: 2001.5 Infiniti QX4 4WD
- Location: Sammamish, WA
Re: Shocks & StruTS opinions / questions
Like most automotive undertakings, the sky's the limit when it comes to how much you can spend. When it comes to suspension, most folks here will replace the shocks/struts and the control arm bushings and call it good. If you're looking to improve the handling a bit, you may also be interested in replacing the sway bar and torsion bar bushings, and maybe even swap in some new sway bars. If your springs are looking too rusted for comfort or are riding too low and squishy, you may want to get new springs too. If your steering's feeling a little shaky or loose, tie rod arms may be beneficial as well. A non-OEM part that I can recommend to improve handling would be the The Missing Link. I think the other things worth considering are whether you want to lower or lift it at all.
When it comes to bushings, polyurethane is usually available. It's highly recommended to go this route if you can since they'll likely outlast your car. They generally make for a slightly stiffer ride, but most people say the difference is negligible or even prefereable. The obvious downside is they cost more and can sometimes complicate the installation, as with the front and rear control arms.
I'll recommend some brands to go with, based on the general consensus and average response that I've seen around here. Every brand and part has its dissenters, so naturally your mileage may vary
I've listed the prices that I've found for these parts for my year to give you a general idea of cost.
Shocks/struts:
KYB for front and rear. Excel-G (or GR-2, I think they're the same thing, $60 each) and KYB Gas-a-Just ($50 each). In the front you'll need new strut mounts as well. Do not get KYBs. A large number of people here have had problems with them. Raybestos or Moog fit the bill well ($50 each). It's also recommended to buy new nuts and bolts when you swap these out, which can be had from the dealer (<$10 each, you'll need 4).
Control arm bushings:
Both the front and rear control arms have bushings that probably need to be replaced by now. You can either buy new arms that have rubber bushings already installed and use those, buy new arms and get those pressed out and install polyurethane, or get the old rubber bushings in your existing arms pressed out and replace with poly or rubber. The advantage to buying new arms is you don't have to rush out to the mechanic or machine shop to get old bushings pressed in/out; you can do it anytime in advance. Front control arms run about $70 each, rear lower arms are about $50, and rear uppers are about $45. Front poly bushings are $100 for the set, and $185 for the rear set, which can be found at 4x4parts.com. Traditional rubber bushings are about $13 each (you'll need 8) for the rear. I'm not sure if you can buy the rubber bushings À la carte for the front. You'll also want new bolts here as well (new rear bolts are included with that rear poly set). I did a full write-up of the rear control arms that goes into more detail.
Ball joints:
I always recommend Proforged any time it's available because they make extremely high quality parts and don't require re-greasing. I used the Proforged 101-10230 ($50 each). I did a write-up on steering knuckle replacement that covers ball joint installation.
Sway bar and torsion bar bushings:
For my vehicle, the Proforged 113-10121 ($25) goes in the front, and Proforged 113-10166 ($22) go in the rear. I've done some looking around and the only place I've seen bushings for the torsion bar is the dealer or anyone selling OEM parts (no polyurethane available). There are also bushings that act as the connecting point between the frame and the bar that should be replaced as well. You should be able to find these bushings in polyurethane at 4x4parts.com ($22 front, $20 rear). waynorth found that Whiteline offers a beefier sway bar that may be worth some consideration as well. Do not get the Addco sway bars: it's been found that they don't fit right (at the time, at least).
Springs:
If you're looking for an OEM ride and height, you're probably good with just getting Moog ($90 front pair, $42, rear pair). If you're replacing the shocks and struts I think it's a good idea since I've heard a story or two about them rusting through on people here; not even folks living in a rust belt! Make sure to buy new seats/insulators as needed. If you're looking for a lift, the best bet is to go with 4x4design's lift spacer set. Some people have had good luck with Old Man Emu Springs as well.
Tie rod arms:
Again, Proforged (104-10464 inner, $22 each Proforged 104-10242 outer, $30 each for mine). Note that you'll need to get your alignment done if you touch these.
Let us know what you decide to go with, and if you need help with specific part selection/location or installation!
When it comes to bushings, polyurethane is usually available. It's highly recommended to go this route if you can since they'll likely outlast your car. They generally make for a slightly stiffer ride, but most people say the difference is negligible or even prefereable. The obvious downside is they cost more and can sometimes complicate the installation, as with the front and rear control arms.
I'll recommend some brands to go with, based on the general consensus and average response that I've seen around here. Every brand and part has its dissenters, so naturally your mileage may vary
I've listed the prices that I've found for these parts for my year to give you a general idea of cost.Shocks/struts:
KYB for front and rear. Excel-G (or GR-2, I think they're the same thing, $60 each) and KYB Gas-a-Just ($50 each). In the front you'll need new strut mounts as well. Do not get KYBs. A large number of people here have had problems with them. Raybestos or Moog fit the bill well ($50 each). It's also recommended to buy new nuts and bolts when you swap these out, which can be had from the dealer (<$10 each, you'll need 4).
Control arm bushings:
Both the front and rear control arms have bushings that probably need to be replaced by now. You can either buy new arms that have rubber bushings already installed and use those, buy new arms and get those pressed out and install polyurethane, or get the old rubber bushings in your existing arms pressed out and replace with poly or rubber. The advantage to buying new arms is you don't have to rush out to the mechanic or machine shop to get old bushings pressed in/out; you can do it anytime in advance. Front control arms run about $70 each, rear lower arms are about $50, and rear uppers are about $45. Front poly bushings are $100 for the set, and $185 for the rear set, which can be found at 4x4parts.com. Traditional rubber bushings are about $13 each (you'll need 8) for the rear. I'm not sure if you can buy the rubber bushings À la carte for the front. You'll also want new bolts here as well (new rear bolts are included with that rear poly set). I did a full write-up of the rear control arms that goes into more detail.
Ball joints:
I always recommend Proforged any time it's available because they make extremely high quality parts and don't require re-greasing. I used the Proforged 101-10230 ($50 each). I did a write-up on steering knuckle replacement that covers ball joint installation.
Sway bar and torsion bar bushings:
For my vehicle, the Proforged 113-10121 ($25) goes in the front, and Proforged 113-10166 ($22) go in the rear. I've done some looking around and the only place I've seen bushings for the torsion bar is the dealer or anyone selling OEM parts (no polyurethane available). There are also bushings that act as the connecting point between the frame and the bar that should be replaced as well. You should be able to find these bushings in polyurethane at 4x4parts.com ($22 front, $20 rear). waynorth found that Whiteline offers a beefier sway bar that may be worth some consideration as well. Do not get the Addco sway bars: it's been found that they don't fit right (at the time, at least).
Springs:
If you're looking for an OEM ride and height, you're probably good with just getting Moog ($90 front pair, $42, rear pair). If you're replacing the shocks and struts I think it's a good idea since I've heard a story or two about them rusting through on people here; not even folks living in a rust belt! Make sure to buy new seats/insulators as needed. If you're looking for a lift, the best bet is to go with 4x4design's lift spacer set. Some people have had good luck with Old Man Emu Springs as well.
Tie rod arms:
Again, Proforged (104-10464 inner, $22 each Proforged 104-10242 outer, $30 each for mine). Note that you'll need to get your alignment done if you touch these.
Let us know what you decide to go with, and if you need help with specific part selection/location or installation!
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rgk
- Posts: 588
- Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2014 4:48 am
- Car: 02 Pathfinder LE 3.5 auto 4x4
- Location: Indiana Dunes National Park
Re: Shocks & StruTS opinions / questions
Very helpful, thorough, and informative.