FYI, OBD-I or OBD-II doesn't mean JACK-**** on an S14...SideWays=smiles wrote:Does anyone know how to reset the obd 2 ECU Ive found plenty of stuff about the obd 1 system but not much on the obd 2, any insight would be helpful.
sorry for bring back this, but has anoyone done this, and if so where the hell do u put this resistor at?? i know where the egr temp sensor is on my car, do u just put it between both wires and call it good? and will this work on a 90 240?? pm me or reply:: orion :: wrote:
FYI, OBD-I or OBD-II doesn't mean JACK-**** on an S14...
There is very little difference between '95 and '96 S14s...it's really a non-issue.
Guys toss around "OBD-I" and "OBD-II" this and that...it really makes NO difference for anything on our cars...really.
- Brian
the temp sensor is the 2 wires that go right in front of the egr, they are not connected to the egr itself, i just wana know if this will work on a s13, once i get smogged i wana remove the egr because i know it is faulty.Chezedik wrote:I have no idea what the temp sensor is, you may mean the bpt. Anyway, you fold the edges over to make leaves and then you shove them into the connectors to the solenoids. That will tell the computer (at least on an S13) that the solenoids are operating properly. May be different on OBD2.
well i unplugged my egr solonoid today, and it stayed out for like 2 hours, then came back on, does anyone know if the 100k resitor works or not??Chezedik wrote:Huh. Is this an SOHC thing, because mine did not have that. I can't comment on that resistor then. The one I was talking about was to the control solenoids for EGR and SCV. It says in the FSM that they will be considered as testing fine if they have a resistance of about 100 ohms, which is where I got that number from. Then again, I still have not ran my setup that way, so what do I know?
I did. Replaced my EGR/CCV solenoid with two 1K Ohm 0.25 watt resistors wired in parallel. One 500 Ohm 0.50 watt resistor would most likely work as well. No CELs.:: orion :: wrote:You can't trick the ECU into not seeing the solenoid, so don't cut those wires.
Can you show a pic or a simple walk thru of how to replace the sensor with a resister from radio shack? Is it easy to do?:: orion :: wrote:Been working on my car for ~4-5 years now...no EGR CEL since.
I removed all the hardware, left the BPT solenoid plugged in (but no vac lines running to it), and put the resitor in place of the temp sensor.
You can't trick the ECU into not seeing the solenoid, so don't cut those wires.
- Brian
Correct, except the ECU looks for a resistance within a certain range.savatoge wrote:The EGR temp sensor works by varying the voltage that the ECU "sees" depending on the temperature in the EGR. By placing a resistor inline, in effect taking the place of the EGR temp sensor, the resistor will provide a constant voltage, which the ECU will see as constant temperature.
Yeah, thanks for the correction...I meant the ECU looks at resistance as it varies and by using a resistor we are keeping the resistance at a set value that we want the ECU to see. But I thought it was inversely variable...more heat in the EGR results in a lower resistance. Can't remember without looking at the FSM...:: orion :: wrote:Correct, except the ECU looks for a resistance within a certain range.
The EGR temps sensor is just a variable resistor...more heat = more resistance.
Again without the FSM or popping my hood, I can't recall definitely, but I think the EGR temp sensor is located in between runners two and three.:: orion :: wrote:And in that pic...it's more likely the BLUE plug...that's the correct style plug, and it should lead to between 2 runners...the sensor just has 2 _small_ black wires coming off of it.