I pulled the bumper and bumper support and cut crap out for better cooling. And it ran 30 degrees cooler, before I was running 200-210 upto 220 with the turbos spooled but now its 160-190 with turbos spooled.

Also the car has an acronym, STAAT

Spins
Tires
At
All
Times

It spins the tires going 5 mph around a corner

Nice! Few questions:

1. How much did those R32 GT-R wheels cost? I'm having a hard time finding some.
2. Is your Greddy swirl pot higher than the highest coolant point of the engine?
3. What's your e-fan setup?

Thanks!

I paid $700 shipped for mine with tires but I ended changing the tires to fit.

I need to raise the swirl tank up, it is sitting low

Running 2 12" Mishimoto pushers

nice!!
good to see it on the road. now get the little bugs worked out and drive it up for a visit asap!!!
only thing i see is you need more low.
where on vaca all week yeh. now you 2 get up here and see us.

I'll get it up there soon Craig, I start college in Sept so maybe that first week. I talk to Sarah about it and she may take that week off so we can come up and see the kids too.

Here are some pics and updates, pics are from CIP/240sxmotoring meet in CT on the 17th of July. ALOT OF INTEREST









I'll have some more pics after I finished fabing up my BOV recirculation, Atomospheric is not the way to go on my setup.

any new updates man?

Sorry for the lack of updates, most of these are copy and paste from my 240sxone.com thread

Future front conversion this only R32 Dark Grey paint and different hood



It just screams, YOUR F***ED

BBS LM Now my #1 choice for future wheels


Finally Finished my Reciculation and fitted it in the car and it runs smoother but still boggy.

It did clear up the A/F ratio reading so now I can actually see where it is with out it hoping all around, IT'S RICH. Idle is at 12.8-13.4 I have to do a data log and see whats up on the Nistune and Logworks3, I need to check the timeing I have a feeling that is one issue.

This is the recirculation pipe after I hacked and slashed it and had it welded.


This is it all done on the motor after another hack and slash, I fabed up all the pieces and had them all welded up and it sits really well in there.


Here are some picks I took of the Overall raw values of everything in different RPM ranges. I think my timing is off but just from these numbers I cant quite tell, I haven't been doing this long. Currently waiting for some special size heater hoses for me to hopefully fix some bogging issues.













Finally got my Wideband to read on my Nistune, so here is my A/F Graph as of right now on my drive home from Starbucks.



Anyone see's anything worth addressing, Timing, MAF's, A/F by all means please do.

The wife finally cleaned her car up so I had to take some pics and throw them up. Ha ha ha

I am very envious.

Sweet build!

krash wrote:I am very envious.

74260zt wrote:Sweet build!

Thanks Guys

Finally got the hoses I needed for the Blowby. I bought 2 feet of a 7/8" ID and 2 feet of 3/4" ID heater hoses from Stylin' motors Inc and a Brass 3/4" to 7/8" reducer from ACE.

It fixed all of the bogging and idleing issues except the ones caused by running to rich, but immediately the car drove so much smoother.

!!!VIDEO!!!



Replaced my hoses with the leftovers from running the blowby.



Tried testing something and blocked off the hose going to the intake and opened the valve cover to the atmospher to see how it would run and my A/F jumped to 17-18 at idle. I ordered a filter and I am going to put it on that valve cover instead of the hose and block the intake section again and see again how it runs.



When I inspected the old hose it has a big metal block shoved into the hose to block air from the intake into the valve cover. So if the filter idea doesn't work then I will block the section of the valve cover off.



It's confusing because I have see all these different ways done, in mags and internet pics so now I will play with it and try and get it as smooth running as possible, since I took that hose with the block in it out the motor went back to rough idle and bogging.

Here you go guys, I torn my engine apart (well a good amount of it) Sunday to torque down the head bolts and check some stuff.

The headbolts did move some

Tear down took 1 hr to 1.5 hrs wasn't keeping track just know my wife showed up from work just in time for the aftermath and devistation of my only vehicle in peices in her dads garage ha ha ha.

The pics are in order of my disassembly





Found my other O2 ha ha ha



No BS ashes in my turbo IC collector pipe (Me thinks they never touched it)









Plugs looked ok but not pretty





Yup I did it CAS was removed :|







Well after all of that I threw it all back together

Started it

AND

Smoke and s**ty idle

Played with the CAS and IAAC while the wife screamed out RPM's and A/F numbers and the outcome?


Perfect (so far)

Idle is alittle high at start up (1000)
but the A/F is dead on 14's at idle and cruise and under boost is at 11-12 no smoke no bogging and it doesn't burn crap loads of fuel anymore. It only took 20 mins of anger and plumes of smoke out the back and very unsteady idleing.

The shop never adjusted any of it (or not enough) because now it runs great

where did you get the ports for the bumper i cut bent and welded ports in the steel but am afraid of hacking into the plastic without something to cover up how lousy i am with a diegrinder are they off another car or did you order them from some1?

They are carbon fiber N1 vents for a R32 N1 GTR, sorry to say I ordered them from australia but you can pick up non carbon fiber around pretty easily but the fitment isn't that great. The vents have more of a bend to them so they pop out more than I wanted but they look good from a distance. I would look at the R33 N1 vents, look at the bumper in pics it may have less of a bend and I think I saw a set on ebay for 40$, or check gtrcanada.com they are always getting rid of stuff.

im gonna bump this!! the latest on this pig?
oh and why havent i set my a** in this yet? (jerk)

dont be a stranger,give me a call sometime!! or e-mail

nice RB , have fun, i wish i had an RB under my hood.
i heard u wanted to go kouki front, i like the oem bumper( they dont crack )
i went Kouki front end on my car, i love the way it looks, some people don't agree, but to each its own



the fiberglass bumper doesnt last long, so i bought OEM bumper

looks so much cleaner with the oem bumper

dayyymmmmm bro looks really good id like to drop one in my 92' vert....someday....very jealous not gonna lie. S15nS13vert dude i swear i have seen your blue vert in a neighborhood over by the turnpike in i think its pompano....i was doin fire alarms in there at the time...just wondering if u live there we should get together sometime just got my 92 vert and could DEF use some advice and help with it

i will be glad to help e-mail me [email protected]
Martin

Lookin' good.

That boost creep is because your exhaust is too free-flowing. Add another muffler in the middle and it should hold boost.

You've already spent so much money on this beast... why no standalone ECU and tune?

The boost creep was a stuck wastegate.

Goodjob man. That bumper is terrible though. What coilovers are you going with?

I have tein super drifts on it.

S14 front end will eventually go on it so until then I'll rock gross bumper

ghost_22_47 wrote:The boost creep was a stuck wastegate.

Haha yeah that would do it. I was running straight pipes to a fart can on my exhaust system and ran into boost creep from exhaust being too free-flowing. I herp derped and figured you may have been running into the same issue because you have a badass system.

Glad to hear you got it fixed!

I have to admit, your carbon coil cover with the badge strip looks cleaner and just better than my cover.

In regards to your A/F graph:

- Is that a single pull at full throttle? If so, what gear?
- If yes, you are leaning out/running a tad richer than I would prefer.

For premium pump gas, I'd want to see somewhere in the ballpark of a 10.7-11 A/F ratio while full throttle and at more than 6-7 psi on those turbos (3000rpm+). Stoic, non-boost situations should be in the 14.5-14.8 range.

If you choose to run higher octane unleaded (around 100), you can run in the 12-12.5 A/F.

From what it looks like, you're spiking up to 20+ A/F around 3100 RPM. That's not good if you are full-throttle. If you're not full throttle or off throttle, that would explain the spikes.

In general, you'd like to see a cleaner mix. For example:

Long overdue updates

Some pics I took before winter







Fuji SPL Meet before winter hit



New Clutchmaster clutch because SPEC sucks and burnt out in less than 5000 miles





Winter Blues while it waited for repairs









It's back up and running and I replaced the broken drivers door handle





So my wife ruined her basiclly new computer with viruses and maxing the harddrive space out with music and crap as well as whatever else she did to it, until it was usless.

She said if I can fix it I can have it and I love challenges and needed a new computer just for Nistune and school work.

It took me close to 16 hours to copy things and clean the whole system up but I did it and loaded Nistune and Logworks for the Wideband on.

YAY I now have a computer dedicated to tuneing, I just have to plug it in tomorrow and test it and make sure everything reads fine.

sweet. Let us now how that goes.

Very nice! Sucks that your clutch went to crap so soon. Did you break it in properly?

Waiting for more updates.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pdJljcQsFqw[/youtube]

Official note: No speed limits were broken. hehehe

Sounds nice and burly!

sweet!!!!!!!! sounds awesome!!!!!
almost warm enough for a nice weekend visit to see your damn uncle and your trouble makeing little cousins.hint,hint.
i'll let you know when driveway dries out and the frost heaves are down alittle more.