its just a small update but it bothered me to leave a job half done! so i did this first thing this morning! ....
so last but not least of the exhaust system, the Trust downpipe, this was really very hard to remove, i didnt have a 1/2" extension long enough and i couldnt get enough torque out of my 3/8" drive ratchet... im sure i pulled some muscles removing those 4 bolts
JL's Skyline GTR - From Stock to Finish Done Right- R32 Metallic Red Pearl
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archaeicbloke
- Posts: 179
- Joined: Tue Nov 10, 2009 8:16 am
- Car: Skyline GTR
- Location: Canada
- Contact:
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archaeicbloke
- Posts: 179
- Joined: Tue Nov 10, 2009 8:16 am
- Car: Skyline GTR
- Location: Canada
- Contact:
Re: JL's Skyline GTR - From Stock to Finish Done Right ... (archaeicbloke)
Well tonight ive done probably the most rediculous thing ever on this car build so far.. the Blitz blow off valves were very dirty and grimey and covered in a terrible corrosion. and the cast aluminum pipe that they bolt too was a disgrace... so i figured id clean up the BOV's and have a go at polishing that horrible demented pipe.. my god what a headache, i reccomend no one ever bother trying to polish that pipe lol, its miserable, the casting of aluminum makes it VERY tough to achieve a perfect polish and not to mention all the curves and grooves... ugh miserable, anyway heres my attempt to clean it up.
you can see exactly what im talkin about
Took apart the blow off valves to give them all a good cleaning... LOOK at the crap inside there!
heres the end result
you can see exactly what im talkin about
Took apart the blow off valves to give them all a good cleaning... LOOK at the crap inside there!
heres the end result
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archaeicbloke
- Posts: 179
- Joined: Tue Nov 10, 2009 8:16 am
- Car: Skyline GTR
- Location: Canada
- Contact:
Re: JL's Skyline GTR - From Stock to Finish Done Right ... (archaeicbloke)
well its basically a small update everyday at this point, i do as much as i can while balancing homework and real work. i honestly wish my body didnt require sleep.. what a design flaw.. why do we need to sleep anyways!?
uggghh to add to the rediculous situation that was polishing the BOV's... re-assembled them and then thought id pressurize the piping to see how it holds up... all i hear is .. sssssssSSSSSSS... and im thinking.. .FFUUUU<<<<KKKKKK...
so.. i took them both apart all again.. only this time, i decided i would completely rebuild them and polish the brass pistons so they would seal properly...
so i take the circlip out of the first one, and it explodes!.. duhh... like i didnt know that would happen! the piston shot across the room and the spring went flying.. it was epic... anyways cleaned it up, oiled it, put it back together and all was good, it actuates as it should...
now the second one is the one which had the air leak.. and it was clear to me why.. it was FULL of gunk and sand and dirt.. which had caused the piston to become sezied into the BOV housing, cause when i removed the circlip. the piston did not fly out... so, i had to make use of some other tools not normally used for this purpose and after working the piston back and forth for more than an hour.. it finaaallly came free... so, i polished the brass and the inside, oiled it up, compressed the piston down, re-installed the circlip, and bolted it all back together.. ta-dah! perfect.. no air leaks anymore and both pistons actuate as they should!
i wonder how long i was running bassically with only one BOV for? lol...
next thing on my list of small tasks was to mod the balance tube for the recirc system, since i don't run recirculating BOV's i don't need the piping behind the FMIC and i need a way to block the return pipe under the intakes.. so, marked it, cut it.. and capped it, job done!
and heres the finished result of that.
THEN... it was time to get on with some of the bigger things i wanted to do, which included painting the exhaust system to stop all the gnarly corrosion!...so i started at the axleback section with the wire brush wheel.. when to my surprise!... WOW.. the exhaust system is actually stainless steel!! hahah i had no idea! it was always so corroded and oxidized i just thought it was regular steel!
So i decided i wasnt going to polish the whole damn thing.. it would take too effin long... instead i decided to polish the axle back and muffler and the rest of the exhaust would recieve the high-temp POR-15 paint as its never seen anyways.
but ya, polished it up and gave it a coat of clear, heres the end result!
uggghh to add to the rediculous situation that was polishing the BOV's... re-assembled them and then thought id pressurize the piping to see how it holds up... all i hear is .. sssssssSSSSSSS... and im thinking.. .FFUUUU<<<<KKKKKK...
so.. i took them both apart all again.. only this time, i decided i would completely rebuild them and polish the brass pistons so they would seal properly...
so i take the circlip out of the first one, and it explodes!.. duhh... like i didnt know that would happen! the piston shot across the room and the spring went flying.. it was epic... anyways cleaned it up, oiled it, put it back together and all was good, it actuates as it should...
now the second one is the one which had the air leak.. and it was clear to me why.. it was FULL of gunk and sand and dirt.. which had caused the piston to become sezied into the BOV housing, cause when i removed the circlip. the piston did not fly out... so, i had to make use of some other tools not normally used for this purpose and after working the piston back and forth for more than an hour.. it finaaallly came free... so, i polished the brass and the inside, oiled it up, compressed the piston down, re-installed the circlip, and bolted it all back together.. ta-dah! perfect.. no air leaks anymore and both pistons actuate as they should!
i wonder how long i was running bassically with only one BOV for? lol...
next thing on my list of small tasks was to mod the balance tube for the recirc system, since i don't run recirculating BOV's i don't need the piping behind the FMIC and i need a way to block the return pipe under the intakes.. so, marked it, cut it.. and capped it, job done!
and heres the finished result of that.
THEN... it was time to get on with some of the bigger things i wanted to do, which included painting the exhaust system to stop all the gnarly corrosion!...so i started at the axleback section with the wire brush wheel.. when to my surprise!... WOW.. the exhaust system is actually stainless steel!! hahah i had no idea! it was always so corroded and oxidized i just thought it was regular steel!
So i decided i wasnt going to polish the whole damn thing.. it would take too effin long... instead i decided to polish the axle back and muffler and the rest of the exhaust would recieve the high-temp POR-15 paint as its never seen anyways.
but ya, polished it up and gave it a coat of clear, heres the end result!
Re: JL's Skyline GTR - From Stock to Finish Done Right ... (archaeicbloke)
This is the best build thread EVER! I wish I had a Skyline, good luck with the build bro. Keep it coming!
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archaeicbloke
- Posts: 179
- Joined: Tue Nov 10, 2009 8:16 am
- Car: Skyline GTR
- Location: Canada
- Contact:
Re: JL's Skyline GTR - From Stock to Finish Done Right ... (KromCube)
@Kromcube - well thank you very much!! the kind comments help me to stay motivated!
well not much more progress yet, still just a little bit every day,(ive actually been busy prepping the exhaust line for POR-15 high temp paint, its quite the process...and ill put pics of that when im done)
but yea, basically just got the koyo rad out now, man that was so much easier than i thought it would be... theres really nothing to pulling a radiator... 2 screws, thats it! and drained the fluid of course. thats tough to do with out spilling every where
and then just as it was quick to do, i removed the upper and lower samco hoses and disconnected the defi water temp sensor.ive been labelling everything that disconnects with tape and names of parts, so the engine bay is starting to look like a battlefield with little white flags poping up everywhere declaring what they represent! lol
i have a question though... does anyone know how to get rid of that brown slimey stuff from inside the block!???
well not much more progress yet, still just a little bit every day,(ive actually been busy prepping the exhaust line for POR-15 high temp paint, its quite the process...and ill put pics of that when im done)
but yea, basically just got the koyo rad out now, man that was so much easier than i thought it would be... theres really nothing to pulling a radiator... 2 screws, thats it! and drained the fluid of course. thats tough to do with out spilling every where
and then just as it was quick to do, i removed the upper and lower samco hoses and disconnected the defi water temp sensor.ive been labelling everything that disconnects with tape and names of parts, so the engine bay is starting to look like a battlefield with little white flags poping up everywhere declaring what they represent! lol
i have a question though... does anyone know how to get rid of that brown slimey stuff from inside the block!???
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archaeicbloke
- Posts: 179
- Joined: Tue Nov 10, 2009 8:16 am
- Car: Skyline GTR
- Location: Canada
- Contact:
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archaeicbloke
- Posts: 179
- Joined: Tue Nov 10, 2009 8:16 am
- Car: Skyline GTR
- Location: Canada
- Contact:
Re: JL's Skyline GTR - From Stock to Finish Done Right ... (archaeicbloke)
Well, another small-ish update...
I started the night off by attempting to flush the brown slime out from the engine block. So I plugged in the rad hoses again, the bottom one would drain to a bucket, and the top one had a hose hooked into it for water feed from the tap. Seemed like a good idea. So I turned on the tap water. The system pressurized but no water came out the bottom? I went in close to see whats up when all of a sudden *sploooosh*! The loosely place on upper rad hose lets go and I'm COVERED in brown slime water and coolant. My god, what a miserable odor.
Well it seems like both me and all the people who suggested I do this, forgot about the thermostat. doh! Anyway no harm done, but lesson learned, the hard way.
Well onto brighter things. To get back on track I started off by polishing the upper rad mounts and gave them a coat of clear to protect them. I think it'll look really sharp once its all back together. Check the difference:
Then I wanted to get more done on the exhaust plan. So after hours of work with the wire brush wheel to remove all the gunk, and grime and corrosion from the steel, I then sprayed the "metal ready" solution onto the steel. It's basically just phosphoric acid and a few other chemicals which encourage the rust to peace outta there, and converts it all to this white powdery chalky stuff. Then I soaked it down with a hose to wash off all the excess acid solution, and used a towel to dry it off. Then all the hard work is done and all that's left is to apply the paint. It's not THAT hard to work with the POR-15 paint, but it certainly requires care. It dries in about 3-4 hours to the touch, at which point I applied a second coat. I'll probably apply a third coat tomorrow. But it's gonna look the same, so for arguments sake, here's that finished product:
Then I wanted to do something that would serve a purpose and move me closer to the goal of engine out, but I didn't feel like doing any heavy bolt torque or anything like that, so I started on the electrical and vacuum line connections. Man there's a lot of them.
So I disconnected all 4 Defi sensors (boost, water temp, oil temp, and oil press.)
Then I pulled the throttle cable off:
And finally the entire main engine harness. This wasn't difficult at all, just took some time to label both parts of every connection and mark it down in my book.
Then, to finish off the night in a really poop manner, I noticed my feet were soaking wet!! And there was a growing puddle of water under my car.
WHY THE HELL IS IT RAINING IN JANUARY! +4 right now in Canada. Really quite concerned as to what I'm gonna do now that my garage is flooding. grrr.
Will keep you posted!
I started the night off by attempting to flush the brown slime out from the engine block. So I plugged in the rad hoses again, the bottom one would drain to a bucket, and the top one had a hose hooked into it for water feed from the tap. Seemed like a good idea. So I turned on the tap water. The system pressurized but no water came out the bottom? I went in close to see whats up when all of a sudden *sploooosh*! The loosely place on upper rad hose lets go and I'm COVERED in brown slime water and coolant. My god, what a miserable odor.
Well it seems like both me and all the people who suggested I do this, forgot about the thermostat. doh! Anyway no harm done, but lesson learned, the hard way.
Well onto brighter things. To get back on track I started off by polishing the upper rad mounts and gave them a coat of clear to protect them. I think it'll look really sharp once its all back together. Check the difference:
Then I wanted to get more done on the exhaust plan. So after hours of work with the wire brush wheel to remove all the gunk, and grime and corrosion from the steel, I then sprayed the "metal ready" solution onto the steel. It's basically just phosphoric acid and a few other chemicals which encourage the rust to peace outta there, and converts it all to this white powdery chalky stuff. Then I soaked it down with a hose to wash off all the excess acid solution, and used a towel to dry it off. Then all the hard work is done and all that's left is to apply the paint. It's not THAT hard to work with the POR-15 paint, but it certainly requires care. It dries in about 3-4 hours to the touch, at which point I applied a second coat. I'll probably apply a third coat tomorrow. But it's gonna look the same, so for arguments sake, here's that finished product:
Then I wanted to do something that would serve a purpose and move me closer to the goal of engine out, but I didn't feel like doing any heavy bolt torque or anything like that, so I started on the electrical and vacuum line connections. Man there's a lot of them.
So I disconnected all 4 Defi sensors (boost, water temp, oil temp, and oil press.)
Then I pulled the throttle cable off:
And finally the entire main engine harness. This wasn't difficult at all, just took some time to label both parts of every connection and mark it down in my book.
Then, to finish off the night in a really poop manner, I noticed my feet were soaking wet!! And there was a growing puddle of water under my car.
WHY THE HELL IS IT RAINING IN JANUARY! +4 right now in Canada. Really quite concerned as to what I'm gonna do now that my garage is flooding. grrr.
Will keep you posted!
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streetstarspride
- Posts: 77
- Joined: Thu Apr 23, 2009 12:47 pm
- Car: 1992 Nissan Pulsar Gti-R
1994 Nissan 240SX Convertible - Contact:
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archaeicbloke
- Posts: 179
- Joined: Tue Nov 10, 2009 8:16 am
- Car: Skyline GTR
- Location: Canada
- Contact:
Re: (streetstarspride)
@ Streetstarparade - thanks a lot! haha thats pretty awesome to get so much nice comments from people all around the world.. im definitley heading in a good direction!
Well thanks to the much appreciated help of my neighbor, we managed to fix the problem that was causing the rain water to flood the basement... so its back to work on the car! woohoo! lol...
well i started off by finishing up some of the wiring and vacuum lines that were still attached.. like i said before, everything which gets disconnected.. recieves a flag with the location of its counter part listed... and it all gets written down what each tag means in my note book... so like you see here... EGT-1 and EGT-2... are obviously exhaust gas temp sensors.. 1 = front.. 2 = rear! pretty simple... but ya the whole engine is being done like that.
then at the suggestion of some people on the forum, to gain a little more room when it'll be needed most, i just un-bolted the fan.. really easy to do!
and then i wanted to get back to work on the exhaust system refresh:so i started back with the de-cat pipe... look how corroded it is from driving just one summer!!
well after a little while with the wire brush wheel... it looks much cleaner:
and its the same sob story for the cat-back to axle forward part:
then i started on with the rather long and complicated and tricky procedure for using the POR-15 high temp paint.
step 1 (when starting with clean metal smooth surface).... had to spray the "metal-ready" phosphoric acid based spray onto the metal and let it soak in for 15-30 minutes all over...
step 2.... wash it all off with a hose and hang it up to dry over night...(important not to towel dry!!) supposed to leave the white chalky substance all over the steel.
step 3... after 2 days drying... you can finally apply the first coat of POR-15.. and it goes on really thin.
step 4.... after 2 days drying and curing ill be doing a second coat.. and a third coat... each coat becomes successivley thicker to apply...
so heres after the first coat:
and thats all for now, next hopefully we'll be making more progress in any number of areas!
Well thanks to the much appreciated help of my neighbor, we managed to fix the problem that was causing the rain water to flood the basement... so its back to work on the car! woohoo! lol...
well i started off by finishing up some of the wiring and vacuum lines that were still attached.. like i said before, everything which gets disconnected.. recieves a flag with the location of its counter part listed... and it all gets written down what each tag means in my note book... so like you see here... EGT-1 and EGT-2... are obviously exhaust gas temp sensors.. 1 = front.. 2 = rear! pretty simple... but ya the whole engine is being done like that.
then at the suggestion of some people on the forum, to gain a little more room when it'll be needed most, i just un-bolted the fan.. really easy to do!
and then i wanted to get back to work on the exhaust system refresh:so i started back with the de-cat pipe... look how corroded it is from driving just one summer!!
well after a little while with the wire brush wheel... it looks much cleaner:
and its the same sob story for the cat-back to axle forward part:
then i started on with the rather long and complicated and tricky procedure for using the POR-15 high temp paint.
step 1 (when starting with clean metal smooth surface).... had to spray the "metal-ready" phosphoric acid based spray onto the metal and let it soak in for 15-30 minutes all over...
step 2.... wash it all off with a hose and hang it up to dry over night...(important not to towel dry!!) supposed to leave the white chalky substance all over the steel.
step 3... after 2 days drying... you can finally apply the first coat of POR-15.. and it goes on really thin.
step 4.... after 2 days drying and curing ill be doing a second coat.. and a third coat... each coat becomes successivley thicker to apply...
so heres after the first coat:
and thats all for now, next hopefully we'll be making more progress in any number of areas!
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nismodatsun
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Wed Jan 27, 2010 3:30 am
- Car: 2005 Nissan Pathfinder, 88 Honda Prelude Si, 99 Honda Civic LX
Re: (archaeicbloke)
Sweet build man, I love seeing builds where people take time to document each step, keep up the great work man!
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turbo_blitz21
- Posts: 137
- Joined: Tue Sep 21, 2004 10:59 am
- Car: JDM FD
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archaeicbloke
- Posts: 179
- Joined: Tue Nov 10, 2009 8:16 am
- Car: Skyline GTR
- Location: Canada
- Contact:
Re: (turbo_blitz21)
@Turboblitz21 thanks bud! im curious to see what you guy's will say when you see the end result!
@nismodatsun ya hahah! some people say im obsessive about it but honestly i think its the best way to make sure i can go back and see the order of which things go on and off!
more progress and a box of new parts!!!
well with the help of a friend i was able to seperate the power steering pump finally with out disconnecting the PS lines!
got a Full engine gasket kit for my RB26 motor!, she's gonna be sooo fresh!
then it wanted to make a little bit more progress in a different direction so i took off the caliper, pads, and rotor
then i took out the Tein coilover:
then the Cusco tension rod:
then disconnected the swaybar end link so not to damage it:
and finally took out the upper table AMS makes great products, after a year use its still in mint condition.l.. its just dirt encrusted! lol..
well more will come soon
@nismodatsun ya hahah! some people say im obsessive about it but honestly i think its the best way to make sure i can go back and see the order of which things go on and off!
more progress and a box of new parts!!!
well with the help of a friend i was able to seperate the power steering pump finally with out disconnecting the PS lines!
got a Full engine gasket kit for my RB26 motor!, she's gonna be sooo fresh!
then it wanted to make a little bit more progress in a different direction so i took off the caliper, pads, and rotor
then i took out the Tein coilover:
then the Cusco tension rod:
then disconnected the swaybar end link so not to damage it:
and finally took out the upper table AMS makes great products, after a year use its still in mint condition.l.. its just dirt encrusted! lol..
well more will come soon
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archaeicbloke
- Posts: 179
- Joined: Tue Nov 10, 2009 8:16 am
- Car: Skyline GTR
- Location: Canada
- Contact:
Re: FN-QR (MellowS13)
@mellows13 thanks bud! keepin up the hard work!
well got right back into it today finishing up the front wheel well area on either side (photos are only of passeneger side but driver side is the exact same thing).... that above ^^^ is the lower control arm with 2 ball joints... rather than attempt to seperate those ball joints it was far easier to just remove the whole assembly... no damage to balls that way lol...
then after letting these beasts soak in WD40 all night, about 15 seconds with the impact gun had these off no problem....axle nuts and cotter pins
then just pulled the spindle off and thats how it'll stay... i tried for hours to free the tie rod end and just couldnt get it off.. i even bought a new pickle fork kit... tried everything and it refused.. so i didnt want to break it, therefore it stays like that... theres no reason to take it off anyways at all...
and don't forget at this step to remove the ABS sensor as well (thats it wrapped around the brake line)
and finally getting a couple of things ready for paint.... i just spent hours cleaning them with the wire brush wheel, then a spray with phosphoric acid (acts as a great primer) .. a wash in water to remova the excess after 30 minutes of acid.. and now letting it dry over night.... after this its paint time!
well got right back into it today finishing up the front wheel well area on either side (photos are only of passeneger side but driver side is the exact same thing).... that above ^^^ is the lower control arm with 2 ball joints... rather than attempt to seperate those ball joints it was far easier to just remove the whole assembly... no damage to balls that way lol...
then after letting these beasts soak in WD40 all night, about 15 seconds with the impact gun had these off no problem....axle nuts and cotter pins
then just pulled the spindle off and thats how it'll stay... i tried for hours to free the tie rod end and just couldnt get it off.. i even bought a new pickle fork kit... tried everything and it refused.. so i didnt want to break it, therefore it stays like that... theres no reason to take it off anyways at all...
and don't forget at this step to remove the ABS sensor as well (thats it wrapped around the brake line)
and finally getting a couple of things ready for paint.... i just spent hours cleaning them with the wire brush wheel, then a spray with phosphoric acid (acts as a great primer) .. a wash in water to remova the excess after 30 minutes of acid.. and now letting it dry over night.... after this its paint time!
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streetstarspride
- Posts: 77
- Joined: Thu Apr 23, 2009 12:47 pm
- Car: 1992 Nissan Pulsar Gti-R
1994 Nissan 240SX Convertible - Contact:
Re: FN-QR (archaeicbloke)
i am indeed jealous of this build!
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archaeicbloke
- Posts: 179
- Joined: Tue Nov 10, 2009 8:16 am
- Car: Skyline GTR
- Location: Canada
- Contact:
Re: FN-QR (streetstarspride)
hahaha thanks man!~
ok so continuing on with the work...
time to remove the axles... it was really easy, 6 nuts and bolts to remove the passenger side front axle,. and it comes right off!
next i wanted to get the AC pump ready cause it needs to be free when the motor starts to come up and out so that you can jimmy it around.. also this way i don't have to empty my AC system and risk passing out from lack of air! lol...
and this is a special tool i made... its actually a long tall skinny house lamp.. that i "modified" to fit over the end of my wrench... this is actually one of the hardest bolts ive had on the car!!! soooo long and its position makes my back hurt lol... once that miserable bolt was out...(its also the longest of the 4!! grr)... the other 3 were a breeze... andddd its free!!
now to get to some of the good stuff... my silicone heater hose kit came in today!! its nothing super special just direct replacement for the 20 year old heater hoses under the intake plenum...
and heres the finished product of those parts i prepped last week... like i said... wire wheel brush, phosphoric acid dip for 30 minutes, rinse in water, dry over night or 2.... many many light coats of metal flake red... many light coats of clear top coat... and we have this!... its the front spacers, rear spacers, front brake caliper pin pressure plate thing, and axle nut cap thing...i did these because these pieces are visible when you look at the car and on most cars they're covered in rust... i don't want that! so, these will clean easily with water after a long drive.
and heres the parts for the wheel well all organized, cleaned and ready to go back in when the time calls for it!
ok so continuing on with the work...
time to remove the axles... it was really easy, 6 nuts and bolts to remove the passenger side front axle,. and it comes right off!
next i wanted to get the AC pump ready cause it needs to be free when the motor starts to come up and out so that you can jimmy it around.. also this way i don't have to empty my AC system and risk passing out from lack of air! lol...
and this is a special tool i made... its actually a long tall skinny house lamp.. that i "modified" to fit over the end of my wrench... this is actually one of the hardest bolts ive had on the car!!! soooo long and its position makes my back hurt lol... once that miserable bolt was out...(its also the longest of the 4!! grr)... the other 3 were a breeze... andddd its free!!
now to get to some of the good stuff... my silicone heater hose kit came in today!! its nothing super special just direct replacement for the 20 year old heater hoses under the intake plenum...
and heres the finished product of those parts i prepped last week... like i said... wire wheel brush, phosphoric acid dip for 30 minutes, rinse in water, dry over night or 2.... many many light coats of metal flake red... many light coats of clear top coat... and we have this!... its the front spacers, rear spacers, front brake caliper pin pressure plate thing, and axle nut cap thing...i did these because these pieces are visible when you look at the car and on most cars they're covered in rust... i don't want that! so, these will clean easily with water after a long drive.
and heres the parts for the wheel well all organized, cleaned and ready to go back in when the time calls for it!
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archaeicbloke
- Posts: 179
- Joined: Tue Nov 10, 2009 8:16 am
- Car: Skyline GTR
- Location: Canada
- Contact:
Re: FN-QR (archaeicbloke)
FREEDDOOOOM!!!!... well for the drivers side front axle anyways! lol...
man, that is one tricky piece to remove, but ill post the instruction how to remove it VERY easily for everyone to see... i should thank Mcfly for the advice on this little trick
k.. so first you need to find a flat head screwdriver...then crawl under the car with a work light... and have a look on the metal part of the axle shaft close... vvery close to fhe differential housing... there is a slot/groove all the way around the circumference of it. thats where you put the screwdriver into... and you simply just turn the shaft a little and give a pry with the screw driver.. if it doesnt come out.. turn the shaft a little more... and pry pry again... and at one point in the turning.. you'll be super shocked cause the whole thing just litterally fall out!... pop! woohoo.. so easy..
this is what you;ll be looking at when you get under the car.
then... (even though this one is already out) you can really see that slot im talking about
and once its out.. a small red stream will run for like 30 seconds, this stuff is pretty thick... not a big deal:
then i proceeded to finish up some of the electrical wire connections, a couple more vacuum connections, and finally the fuel send and return lines...
before the motor comes out... i still need to:
- drain engine oil- drain transmission fluid- disconnect shifter from inside- disconnect the rear prop shaft from the transmission- disconnect wiring and speed sensor from transmission- disconnect some ground wiring on the engine- unbolt the engine and transmission mounts..
not much more than that.
man, that is one tricky piece to remove, but ill post the instruction how to remove it VERY easily for everyone to see... i should thank Mcfly for the advice on this little trick
k.. so first you need to find a flat head screwdriver...then crawl under the car with a work light... and have a look on the metal part of the axle shaft close... vvery close to fhe differential housing... there is a slot/groove all the way around the circumference of it. thats where you put the screwdriver into... and you simply just turn the shaft a little and give a pry with the screw driver.. if it doesnt come out.. turn the shaft a little more... and pry pry again... and at one point in the turning.. you'll be super shocked cause the whole thing just litterally fall out!... pop! woohoo.. so easy..
this is what you;ll be looking at when you get under the car.
then... (even though this one is already out) you can really see that slot im talking about
and once its out.. a small red stream will run for like 30 seconds, this stuff is pretty thick... not a big deal:
then i proceeded to finish up some of the electrical wire connections, a couple more vacuum connections, and finally the fuel send and return lines...
before the motor comes out... i still need to:
- drain engine oil- drain transmission fluid- disconnect shifter from inside- disconnect the rear prop shaft from the transmission- disconnect wiring and speed sensor from transmission- disconnect some ground wiring on the engine- unbolt the engine and transmission mounts..
not much more than that.
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archaeicbloke
- Posts: 179
- Joined: Tue Nov 10, 2009 8:16 am
- Car: Skyline GTR
- Location: Canada
- Contact:
Re: FN-QR (archaeicbloke)
well, i wrote my last midterm exam today, so naturally got right back into the work on the car.. man its so hard going back after 3 weeks of not touching it! grrr...
2 weeks ago i made a large order through a shop, heres whats on its way over:
- 2 x Garrett 2860R-5- N1 oil pump- stainless braided oil lines with oil restrictors- full set of vibrant performance T-bolt clamps and silicone hose couplers for the entire FMIC piping system
is supposed to ship out this week, set to arrive about a week from friday,
so first thing i did tonight was disconnect the main engine ground wire, then disconnected the heater hoses from the body:
then went under the car and disconnected the rear prop shaft from the transmission, its easy just 4 bolts.
while i was down there i also unbolted the clutch slave
and finally i painted the front re-bar with POR-15, and i touched up a couple other parts like small brackets that arent really seen usually, but i saw them, and they looked like they needed fresh paint. lol
2 weeks ago i made a large order through a shop, heres whats on its way over:
- 2 x Garrett 2860R-5- N1 oil pump- stainless braided oil lines with oil restrictors- full set of vibrant performance T-bolt clamps and silicone hose couplers for the entire FMIC piping system
is supposed to ship out this week, set to arrive about a week from friday,
so first thing i did tonight was disconnect the main engine ground wire, then disconnected the heater hoses from the body:
then went under the car and disconnected the rear prop shaft from the transmission, its easy just 4 bolts.
while i was down there i also unbolted the clutch slave
and finally i painted the front re-bar with POR-15, and i touched up a couple other parts like small brackets that arent really seen usually, but i saw them, and they looked like they needed fresh paint. lol
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archaeicbloke
- Posts: 179
- Joined: Tue Nov 10, 2009 8:16 am
- Car: Skyline GTR
- Location: Canada
- Contact:
Re: FN-QR (archaeicbloke)
Serious update request fulfilled!
first, since ive been asked, this is the polishing kit i use, i have 6 different compounds for all different kinds of metal. heres a pic of that kit,
and heres the tension rods new paint job (i had to keep the POR15 base coat well away from the nuts and bolts section as this paint "fuses" metal together permanently)... then a top coat of mettalic red with a clear coat... i know they;re not seen, but i see em anyways.
and heres a center console DIN that marc made for me! (props, the man with all the solutions! haha as he also hooked up some new wheel studs! woo hoo!)its a carbon fiber weave with red kevlar, its super cool, from one direction it looks mostlyt black, and the other its red...
then i unbolted these from the rears, im gonna clean up the coil-over and oil them and stuff, and gonna repaint the cuso rear A-arms with POR 15.
ok so back to the job of pulling the motor:disconnected the speedo cable
then just unbolted the attesa filler pump thing
then drained the engine oil
at this point i have to stop and give a HUGE thanks to marc and my neighbor jesse for comin over tonight and giving me a much needed hand with all this! thanks a lot guys!
so we had a fair bit of fun removing the circlip from the shift lever... anywas we got it out finally:
then i dont have pictures of this part! ahh... but anyways we unbolt the 4 transmission mount bolts and removed the cross member.. of course we had to support the transmission with a jack... then its just one nut on each side for the engine mounts... then we rigged up our crane with two large hoops of 7000 pound test cables.. and due to our height restrictions on my garage we had to be super careful hahah.
also the jack stands were in the way so they had to be move and then we had to disconnect the electrical from the alternator, a plug at the bottom of the steering rack and the wiring to the starter mortor and the transmission sensors. ugh i had obviously forgotton a whole wiring loom worth of wires lol ha, anyways. heres us setting up the crane:
and we started to lift!! - but its a very tricky game to get the balance just perfect to clear the pipes below and the firewall above and all the other junk in the way!
and here it is just starting to peak out
a little moooore! and ugh, jammed on the upper rad support... so we put a jack on the front and actually lowere the body of the car to make it clear... and that still wasnt enough to clear it all!! so we ended up lifting it out ourselves!! - we also had to remove the front rebar because we couldnt get enough reach on the crane!! ugh doh! remember for next time i guess
and there she is, out, free and clear, nothing damaged in the process except my only work light
and theres the body, waiting for its refreshed heart! (EPIC photo finalé)
first, since ive been asked, this is the polishing kit i use, i have 6 different compounds for all different kinds of metal. heres a pic of that kit,
and heres the tension rods new paint job (i had to keep the POR15 base coat well away from the nuts and bolts section as this paint "fuses" metal together permanently)... then a top coat of mettalic red with a clear coat... i know they;re not seen, but i see em anyways.
and heres a center console DIN that marc made for me! (props, the man with all the solutions! haha as he also hooked up some new wheel studs! woo hoo!)its a carbon fiber weave with red kevlar, its super cool, from one direction it looks mostlyt black, and the other its red...
then i unbolted these from the rears, im gonna clean up the coil-over and oil them and stuff, and gonna repaint the cuso rear A-arms with POR 15.
ok so back to the job of pulling the motor:disconnected the speedo cable
then just unbolted the attesa filler pump thing
then drained the engine oil
at this point i have to stop and give a HUGE thanks to marc and my neighbor jesse for comin over tonight and giving me a much needed hand with all this! thanks a lot guys!
so we had a fair bit of fun removing the circlip from the shift lever... anywas we got it out finally:
then i dont have pictures of this part! ahh... but anyways we unbolt the 4 transmission mount bolts and removed the cross member.. of course we had to support the transmission with a jack... then its just one nut on each side for the engine mounts... then we rigged up our crane with two large hoops of 7000 pound test cables.. and due to our height restrictions on my garage we had to be super careful hahah.
also the jack stands were in the way so they had to be move and then we had to disconnect the electrical from the alternator, a plug at the bottom of the steering rack and the wiring to the starter mortor and the transmission sensors. ugh i had obviously forgotton a whole wiring loom worth of wires lol ha, anyways. heres us setting up the crane:
and we started to lift!! - but its a very tricky game to get the balance just perfect to clear the pipes below and the firewall above and all the other junk in the way!
and here it is just starting to peak out
a little moooore! and ugh, jammed on the upper rad support... so we put a jack on the front and actually lowere the body of the car to make it clear... and that still wasnt enough to clear it all!! so we ended up lifting it out ourselves!! - we also had to remove the front rebar because we couldnt get enough reach on the crane!! ugh doh! remember for next time i guess
and there she is, out, free and clear, nothing damaged in the process except my only work light
and theres the body, waiting for its refreshed heart! (EPIC photo finalé)
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nissans13240sx
- Posts: 2131
- Joined: Wed Mar 01, 2006 12:00 pm
- Car: 90 R32 GTR
91 Hatch SR20
93 Coupe KA-T
04 STI
Re: FN-QR (archaeicbloke)
Nice build you got goin here. My 32 looks exactly like your haha. I actually just recently pulled my motor out too. Where did you get the silicone heater hoses from?
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lilgookiemonsta
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Fri Jan 08, 2010 6:12 pm
- Car: 2008 Honda S2000 CR
Re: FN-QR (archaeicbloke)
cheers to a guy that gives an R32 the respect she deserves!
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archaeicbloke
- Posts: 179
- Joined: Tue Nov 10, 2009 8:16 am
- Car: Skyline GTR
- Location: Canada
- Contact:
Re: FN-QR (lilgookiemonsta)
silicone hoses from a guy on GTR canada, hes sold out now tho.
thanks very much for the kind words, i realy do love this car so i treat it quite well as you'll see below!
so ill start todays update off with some good news, my parts should be here from Z-tune by next week end. also i got my twin turbo pipe modded by my dads machine shop, they did a superb job. all i did was send in my part with a couple of photos of other peoples modded pipes and the guy replicated it, and the welds are amazing!
ok so now back to the car - first on the table was to get rid of the HICAS junk and re-loop the power steering lines through the cooler and back into the reservoir from the pump, same way that everyone else always does it.
and here we go, got it all out, only took a few hours, and lots of swearing.i was able to leave my rack in place because its been welded not to move, but maybe in the summer i will swap it for the driftworks kit just because its lighter than the rack.
ok so as you can see from the photos above, the engine bay was SUPER dirty.. and on the list for tonight was a decent clean up, and a wire tuck. so you saw all the before shots above.. heres the after shots, its pretty much finished my engine bay now. just need to mount my oil filter relocation, my coolant tank, and do the wiring for my battery relocation.
and heres the big picture i really dig the new covers i order from the UK.. laser etched GTR fuse box cover ..mmmm
thanks very much for the kind words, i realy do love this car so i treat it quite well as you'll see below!
so ill start todays update off with some good news, my parts should be here from Z-tune by next week end. also i got my twin turbo pipe modded by my dads machine shop, they did a superb job. all i did was send in my part with a couple of photos of other peoples modded pipes and the guy replicated it, and the welds are amazing!
ok so now back to the car - first on the table was to get rid of the HICAS junk and re-loop the power steering lines through the cooler and back into the reservoir from the pump, same way that everyone else always does it.
and here we go, got it all out, only took a few hours, and lots of swearing.i was able to leave my rack in place because its been welded not to move, but maybe in the summer i will swap it for the driftworks kit just because its lighter than the rack.
ok so as you can see from the photos above, the engine bay was SUPER dirty.. and on the list for tonight was a decent clean up, and a wire tuck. so you saw all the before shots above.. heres the after shots, its pretty much finished my engine bay now. just need to mount my oil filter relocation, my coolant tank, and do the wiring for my battery relocation.
and heres the big picture i really dig the new covers i order from the UK.. laser etched GTR fuse box cover ..mmmm
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archaeicbloke
- Posts: 179
- Joined: Tue Nov 10, 2009 8:16 am
- Car: Skyline GTR
- Location: Canada
- Contact:
Re: FN-QR (archaeicbloke)
well a bit more updates today:
I wanted to beef up the rust prevention on the underside of the car in some of the places that see the most wear and tear. even though the Skyline is undercoated and made from galvanized metal, its still a good idea.
so I gave the frame rails and the inner fenders all a coat of POR-15, its that special paint that becomes harder as it absorbs the moisture from the surface its painted on... tested in a number of ways and it comes out amazing, it'll dry to a hard finish and really keep the dirt off
i took these out last week and have been going through the process to bring them from rusty to fresh and new, also oiled and cleaned all the joints, and they're finished with a high gloss high endurance metal flake red
so i started with relocating the windshield washer fluid reservoir to the trunk. that meant running 4 wires front to back, and 2 water hoses.i tucked them all under the carpet along the side where they run all the other wires and tubes. it worked well.
and i ran a line up to the front which will be for the intercooler spray
Modified by archaeicbloke at 11:43 PM 3/23/2010
I wanted to beef up the rust prevention on the underside of the car in some of the places that see the most wear and tear. even though the Skyline is undercoated and made from galvanized metal, its still a good idea.
so I gave the frame rails and the inner fenders all a coat of POR-15, its that special paint that becomes harder as it absorbs the moisture from the surface its painted on... tested in a number of ways and it comes out amazing, it'll dry to a hard finish and really keep the dirt off
i took these out last week and have been going through the process to bring them from rusty to fresh and new, also oiled and cleaned all the joints, and they're finished with a high gloss high endurance metal flake red
so i started with relocating the windshield washer fluid reservoir to the trunk. that meant running 4 wires front to back, and 2 water hoses.i tucked them all under the carpet along the side where they run all the other wires and tubes. it worked well.
and i ran a line up to the front which will be for the intercooler spray
Modified by archaeicbloke at 11:43 PM 3/23/2010
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archaeicbloke
- Posts: 179
- Joined: Tue Nov 10, 2009 8:16 am
- Car: Skyline GTR
- Location: Canada
- Contact:
Re: FN-QR (archaeicbloke)
well not much in terms of an update tonight but some interesting photos i have here.
tonight i ran my ground wire under the car and into a mounting point in the engine bay for the battery relocation kit. on that same mounting point i also mounted my ??Greddy?? earthing kit and its the factor body ground mounting point too.... i checked with my volt-meter/ohm-meter and im getting perfect conduction through all grounds and chassis from one end of the car to the other.
i also re-wrapped the vinyl black tape on the cables that had old and cracked coverrs.
then i had to get started on the prep work for doing the rust proof coat on the other side frame rail and inner fenders... so that means i used degreaser and got all the gunk, grease grime and dirt off the places to be paint, and i let it air dry for a few days.
but heres the funny part, i was doing the area around the gas tank filler neck, and i moved the black plastic cover for it and rocks fell out!... so i took it the cover off completely and ommmgggg look what was back there! 20 years worth of sand and dust and dirt!!! barf... so i cleaned it mint again!... thats getting painted too!
tonight i ran my ground wire under the car and into a mounting point in the engine bay for the battery relocation kit. on that same mounting point i also mounted my ??Greddy?? earthing kit and its the factor body ground mounting point too.... i checked with my volt-meter/ohm-meter and im getting perfect conduction through all grounds and chassis from one end of the car to the other.
i also re-wrapped the vinyl black tape on the cables that had old and cracked coverrs.
then i had to get started on the prep work for doing the rust proof coat on the other side frame rail and inner fenders... so that means i used degreaser and got all the gunk, grease grime and dirt off the places to be paint, and i let it air dry for a few days.
but heres the funny part, i was doing the area around the gas tank filler neck, and i moved the black plastic cover for it and rocks fell out!... so i took it the cover off completely and ommmgggg look what was back there! 20 years worth of sand and dust and dirt!!! barf... so i cleaned it mint again!... thats getting painted too!
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archaeicbloke
- Posts: 179
- Joined: Tue Nov 10, 2009 8:16 am
- Car: Skyline GTR
- Location: Canada
- Contact:
Re: FN-QR (archaeicbloke)
well today a couple of boxes arrived! woohoo!!
new N1 oil pump:
Vibrant silicone hose couplers and T-bolt clamps. unfortunatley the hoses shipped to me were the wrong type! so we have to exchange them.
some cheap ebay brand coolant overflow reservoir which i plan to modify to make it fit nicely in the engine bay:
and of course... Garrett GT2860R-5's with some braided oil lines with oil restrictors:
thats all for now.. next week will see more progress and im also still waiting on a few shipments to arrive:
Re: FN-QR (archaeicbloke)
Can't wait to see those turbos in! Your hitting this car hard, keep at it.
Re: FN-QR (KromCube)
agreed.. sick.
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archaeicbloke
- Posts: 179
- Joined: Tue Nov 10, 2009 8:16 am
- Car: Skyline GTR
- Location: Canada
- Contact:
Re: FN-QR (CubeRich)
:O whats this>? a box with nissan stamped on it!:? hrmmm what is it?
....... mmm new R34 N1 crank!... i measured with a micrometer and the oil pump fits 100% perfectly with ZERO play onto the crank nose with full engagement!
the plan is the engine will be going to Autoworx (a local shop) shortly to have the new crank and oil pump fitted along with ACL bearings, the rest as like always lately will be done by myself.
so in order to get the engine over there it had to be seperated from the transmission to make less work for the mechanic which means less paying $$ for me. so i disconnected the forward prop shaft.
then i spent many hours wrestling this awful heavy lunk my god its SO hard to get off by yourself! its heavy and awkward and is super difficult to handle. lol.. anyways i finally got it seperated
....... mmm new R34 N1 crank!... i measured with a micrometer and the oil pump fits 100% perfectly with ZERO play onto the crank nose with full engagement!
the plan is the engine will be going to Autoworx (a local shop) shortly to have the new crank and oil pump fitted along with ACL bearings, the rest as like always lately will be done by myself.
so in order to get the engine over there it had to be seperated from the transmission to make less work for the mechanic which means less paying $$ for me. so i disconnected the forward prop shaft.
then i spent many hours wrestling this awful heavy lunk my god its SO hard to get off by yourself! its heavy and awkward and is super difficult to handle. lol.. anyways i finally got it seperated
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archaeicbloke
- Posts: 179
- Joined: Tue Nov 10, 2009 8:16 am
- Car: Skyline GTR
- Location: Canada
- Contact:
Re: FN-QR (archaeicbloke)
as for the stock clutch... well guys don't forget even though the car will be able to crank out big power, it won't be doing so until mid summer... need to wait for the fuel system upgrades to handle the power. so the stock clutch will actually be just fine for now...
ok so update today... i actually did all this stuff yesterday and didnt have time to update it, so im posting this up now, then ill go do more work, then ill come back and post more tonight.. hopefully. thats the plan anyways lol.
so this came in the mail yesterday: its some various sized vacuum silicone hoses again to replace the old ones on the engine, sizing is 5mm, 7mm and 10mm.
and also in my order from summit racing came the battery relocation kit: its 1 gauge wires and all the grommets and clips needed and a battery box.... my cut-off switch is on the way too so it'll be a wicked electrical set-up.
so as seems to be lately any time i try to use a work light.. it gets destroyed *sigh* yep, i yanked the wires right out of the bottom of the work light... so i needed to fix this one otherwise i couldnt keep working... so re-wired it and it works great now.
k so i put the final rubberized coating over the POR-15 base paint, heres the frame rail, the other side looks the same.
and of course the finished wheel well:
and now the fun stuff. im finally ready to start putting things back on the car. so i started with the rear cusco upper arms... every piece i put back on gets a dab of anti-seize between all moving parts... wanna keep everything nice and mobile.
followed by the Tein rear coli-overs, again anti-seized. and the nismo rear strut tower bar went back in at the same time. (my garage is definitley becoming more emtpy!
and i thought, hey, why not do the BOV's at the same time... i don't like having parts just kicking around everywhere.
ok so update today... i actually did all this stuff yesterday and didnt have time to update it, so im posting this up now, then ill go do more work, then ill come back and post more tonight.. hopefully. thats the plan anyways lol.
so this came in the mail yesterday: its some various sized vacuum silicone hoses again to replace the old ones on the engine, sizing is 5mm, 7mm and 10mm.
and also in my order from summit racing came the battery relocation kit: its 1 gauge wires and all the grommets and clips needed and a battery box.... my cut-off switch is on the way too so it'll be a wicked electrical set-up.
so as seems to be lately any time i try to use a work light.. it gets destroyed *sigh* yep, i yanked the wires right out of the bottom of the work light... so i needed to fix this one otherwise i couldnt keep working... so re-wired it and it works great now.
k so i put the final rubberized coating over the POR-15 base paint, heres the frame rail, the other side looks the same.
and of course the finished wheel well:
and now the fun stuff. im finally ready to start putting things back on the car. so i started with the rear cusco upper arms... every piece i put back on gets a dab of anti-seize between all moving parts... wanna keep everything nice and mobile.
followed by the Tein rear coli-overs, again anti-seized. and the nismo rear strut tower bar went back in at the same time. (my garage is definitley becoming more emtpy!
and i thought, hey, why not do the BOV's at the same time... i don't like having parts just kicking around everywhere.
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archaeicbloke
- Posts: 179
- Joined: Tue Nov 10, 2009 8:16 am
- Car: Skyline GTR
- Location: Canada
- Contact:
Re: FN-QR (archaeicbloke)
as promised, another update tonight (although i don't know if anyone actually reads this thing or if im just wasting time? post something, just say hi! if u do read this - im curious)
so you all remember my project to relocat the washer bottle to the trunk right? well have a look at this what do u see?
NOTHING! - hhahaha.. and thats because its finished.. tucked away in the rear quarter pannel.... so its finished! the usual front spray washer button sprays the front windshield, and the "rear" spray button triggers the intercooler spray... mmmm success
yes of course i realize ill need a funnell to fill the thing but honestly, i think i used it so little last summer that i never even filled it once. my window just doesnt get that dirty .. or i wash my car a lot haha
ok now tonight i got some more new pieces, these are super rare, in fact ive never seen anyone else who has them. i think they've been out of production for more than a decade already, so REALLY rare.
RS*R divided turbo outlet pipes, made from really high grade stainless steel!
these are super bada$$ and now i can install my turbos with out worrying about having to take it apart again later
and i proceeded to finish off the battery relocation wiring. i ran my redundant negative cable under the car since it doesnt matter if it rubs and touches anything. but the positive cable i ran through the interior in the wiring channels. both are 1 gauge wires. and i connected the red (positive) to the clamp where it usually connects to the battery up front. and secured the wire. its covered with eletrical tape for protection, lots of tape.
heres the situation i have to handle later on, im waiting for my cutoff switch to arrive so i can decide where to mount the switch, as the switch will determine my wiring in the trunk. i like to tuck wires when possible.
and the ground point in the trunk will be the center of the spare tire well. its begging for it.
so you all remember my project to relocat the washer bottle to the trunk right? well have a look at this what do u see?
NOTHING! - hhahaha.. and thats because its finished.. tucked away in the rear quarter pannel.... so its finished! the usual front spray washer button sprays the front windshield, and the "rear" spray button triggers the intercooler spray... mmmm success
yes of course i realize ill need a funnell to fill the thing but honestly, i think i used it so little last summer that i never even filled it once. my window just doesnt get that dirty .. or i wash my car a lot haha
ok now tonight i got some more new pieces, these are super rare, in fact ive never seen anyone else who has them. i think they've been out of production for more than a decade already, so REALLY rare.
RS*R divided turbo outlet pipes, made from really high grade stainless steel!
these are super bada$$ and now i can install my turbos with out worrying about having to take it apart again later
and i proceeded to finish off the battery relocation wiring. i ran my redundant negative cable under the car since it doesnt matter if it rubs and touches anything. but the positive cable i ran through the interior in the wiring channels. both are 1 gauge wires. and i connected the red (positive) to the clamp where it usually connects to the battery up front. and secured the wire. its covered with eletrical tape for protection, lots of tape.
heres the situation i have to handle later on, im waiting for my cutoff switch to arrive so i can decide where to mount the switch, as the switch will determine my wiring in the trunk. i like to tuck wires when possible.
and the ground point in the trunk will be the center of the spare tire well. its begging for it.