This is what happens. If one of these clips are broken, your quarter window will move left, right, inside and outside.DeXteR wrote:Nemo, you are one bad mofo.
I'm having trouble visualizing the purpose/function of those plastic parts that are broken... However, it seems to me that these could probably be easily replicated from a chunk of nylon with a Dremel. I might have to try that out before mine break.
What parts do you lube? Do you just spray the stuff down in there?jamesblonde82 wrote: and i also want to add that lubricating regularly, i use graphite and silicone based stuff, will help these little nylon pieces last longer. i lubricate all my moving parts at least 3 times a year.
Nope! Not at all. I think actually it works even better than stock plastic piece. Whoever designed this quarter window system is an idiot. Servicing quarter window every couple of years is just too much.loki wrote:You don't have any fitment or rubbing issues with the fabricated metal piece?
94_240sx wrote:Here's the installation process.
This is a bottom bolt. Screw it all the way in. Don't put two bolts on the top yet.
There's a 'V' shaped slot and bottom bolt will go through there. This is the only and best way you can put the whole assembly in.
You have to tilt the assembly to clear 'V' shaped slot.
Once it's in, push the assembly to outside and you will have enough space to put two top bolts back on. You'll have to screw them all the way in to push it up and put those two bolts in the holes.
At first, it's not aligned at all. You are going to put three flare nuts and work your way to align it.
You have to consider many things. Like height, angle, clearance...etc.
Make sure that seatbelt post clears window. If you don't do this, rubber trim on the window will wear out.
Move the assembly around, raise and lower the window constantly to align it.
Window on the door should look like this to seal better.
It's getting better.
Both windows should be pararell to each other.
It's getting pretty close.
Seatbelt holder/slot shouldn't touch the window. I have 1-2mm clearance between seat belt holder/slot and rubber trim on the window.
It looks like it's done.
The tip of window should show a little bit here.
I put a small interior trim back on.
Interior panel and seats are in.
Guess what? When I close the top, window got stuck at this position and wouldn't go up.
There was also gap between the window and the trim.
I had to remove everything, and did it all over again. The window had to move forward about 2-3mm to go up when the top is close and move to outside 1-2mm to touch the outer trim.
Anyway, I was able to align it perfectly later, and it goes up and down with no problem. Most of all, there's no gap between top frame and window when top is closed and window is all the way up. I'm talking about upper right hand corner when you look at driver's side quarter window. This is something that I don't want to deal with again in the future. It's not fun at all.
Cool. I also updated the hood damper thread with measurements, so get them too.wmdavis007 wrote:Bought my supplies today (plastic epoxy, small sheet of metal, new tin snips and super glue). Cost me about $20. I'll try and get it done this week. Thanks for the great write up! I'll let y'all know how it works for me.
If brand new guide was avalable from Nissan dealership, I would have bought a lifetime supply of it(maybe 1-15 pairs?) and you guys know I'm not joking.Arcadia456 wrote:so what should i do get a whole new guide
You can go ahead and test. Quarter windows will always go down if you close or open the top. Nothing will get hurt, so go ahead and test the top.metz1466 wrote:ok I talk with the man today he help me out with the guides will get a stronger metal and remove the broken piece, what I forgot to ask was can the top be tested to see if its goes correctly up and down ( had new cylinders installed ) they wont test it without the windows installed ??? please let me know I had a new one put in and they wont test it until they get the windows back.
That is correct. You can lower the quarter windows by using the switch. Just make sure this arm doesn't get stuck anywhere. When you operate the top, quarter window won't move at all once they are lowered all the way down.metz1466 wrote:so I don't nedd to have the windows in place to test the top right the motor will run and the arm that connects to the guide wont get in the way or hurt right ???
Eh??? Something different. On my car, quarter windows always go down when I hit 'Top Up' or 'Top Down' switch. I think that makes perfect sense because quarter windows won't go into the slots on the frame properly if both of them go up together. You know what I mean? I wonder how it works on other people's verts. Yours is 92 and mine is 94, so it's possible that ASC changed it over the time.metz1466 wrote:yes that is right but will the windows arm try to go up when you raise the top up?? because when the windows are in they go up as you raise the top . please explain . I'll call you so you can explain thanks
No, they don't move up when I close the top. I have to use a switch to close the quarter windows after top is up. Yeah, this is very interesting find.metz1466 wrote:soa re you saying that on yours the quarter windows dont move up when putting the top up?? WOW THAT IS DIFFERENT so they should put the motor in the down position and then unplug it right??