Pull these two knobs on each side under the back seat and lift it.



There are bolts on #2 spots, so remove them. Top of the back seat slides into #1 brackets, so you can unhook it by lifting it up.

Remove these 2 screws on the side of interior panel. They are fairly long.

Remove #1 snap button. Metal is soft, so use the screw driver gently here. Inside of #2, there's a plastic clip that you have to yank it out. Remove #3 screws facing front.

There's only one plastic clip on interior panel, and it looks like this.

There's a small screw underneath interior panle that you just removed. Remove that one and the other snap to remove small plastic trim.

All trim and panel removed.

Raise the window half way up and remove this small clip. There's no space to pull it from the top, so you should push it from underneath. Once clip is out, disconnect the arm and slowly lower the window. If you drop the clip, don't worry. You can fish it out later.

There are 3 nuts with huge flares holding the quarter window assembly. Remove all of them.

***** IMPORTANT *****There are 3 bolts attached to the assembly, so remove all of them too. You can use star(?) shaped wrench to remove them, but they are not that tight, so you can remove them by hands. This step is critical because if you don't remove them, you won't be able to get the whole assembly out.

The whole unit is out.

Window will slide out from the rail.

Broken guides.

You want to separate window and bottom metal bracket because it's easier to work on it that way. Spray some PB Blaster or WD-40 to the center, put a '-' screw driver like this, and hit it with a hammer to loosen. Window is very strong, but make sure not to break it.

Once it's loose, use a plier to remove big round nuts.

There are 2 plastic spacers on each of them (total 6). You don't want to mess them up, so put them back. Bottom of the window will be dirty, so it's good time to clean it up.

I cut a soda can to make a template.

Here's my plan. I'm going to brace the broken piece like this.

I went to Home Depot to find a material and bought this support bracket for wooden posts. Basically, this is what you need. You need something that's strong, but at the same time it should be soft enough to cut it with sheet metal cutter. I think this is perfect material for the repair.

I cut it with a sheet metal cutter and got 2 good sized plates out if it.

Cut and test fitted it.

I used a Dremel with a wheel to cut the folding line 1/3 way, so I can bend more easily. Unfortuntaley, I couldn't bend these wings(?) perfectly, so I ended up removing them.

I created a small box to hold the broken piece into place.

It's finally done!!

There's another way to fix it. You don't have to use the broken piece. You can throw it away and bend the metal piece just like in the below picture. I fixed my passenger side guide this way and it's been holding up just fine for years.

I don't know what to do with this piece yet. I just glued it back and am trying to figure out what's the best way to fix it. Obviously, super glue won't be strong enough. I'll update this thread once I fix it. I'll also include how to install and adjust the window. It takes some time to adjust the window perfectly.

--------------------------------------------------This is the solution that I came up with to fix the other clip.

I cut paper like this and put it at the bottom of plastic clip.

A drop of super glue will secure them.

A clip on the left side is a good one. As you can see, its shape has been changed due to curved rail. That's what it was supposed to happen to one on the right side, but it snapped instead.

I got this from Walmart.

Used a small straw to drop it into the clip.

Carefully fill it with Epoxy. It dries up pretty fast, so you have to keep mixing new batches.

I filled up the middle slots too.

It's cured 100% next morning, and they are hard as rock, so there's no way they will break.

Modified by 94_240sx at 7:08 AM 11/14/2008
Modified by 94_240sx at 8:48 AM 11/14/2008

nice write up

Nemo, you are one bad mofo.

I'm having trouble visualizing the purpose/function of those plastic parts that are broken... However, it seems to me that these could probably be easily replicated from a chunk of nylon with a Dremel. I might have to try that out before mine break.

Added to sticky!

Great work Nemo.

nice write up! and solid way to fix those wimpy nylon guides. when i did my driver's side quarter window i luckily found a wrecked vert with good parts on it's window so i used those. but to anyone reading this who doesn't know, you can't just buy this stuff at the dealership anymore. so good luck finding a parts car, or you just need to fabricate something, like in this thread. and i also want to add that lubricating regularly, i use graphite and silicone based stuff, will help these little nylon pieces last longer. i lubricate all my moving parts at least 3 times a year.

DeXteR wrote:Nemo, you are one bad mofo.

I'm having trouble visualizing the purpose/function of those plastic parts that are broken... However, it seems to me that these could probably be easily replicated from a chunk of nylon with a Dremel. I might have to try that out before mine break.

This is what happens. If one of these clips are broken, your quarter window will move left, right, inside and outside.

Here's how to troubleshoot. Roll up the quarter window half way up and move it left and right. If they are moving, you have broken guides. When all the guides are new, my quarter window was rock solid. It was only going up and down without any slacks.

If you roll up your window, you can see this guide. Your window will still work although this piece is broken, but it'll put too much tension on above two clips, so eventually all of them will go bad. If that happens, your window won't roll up at all and gets stuck at the bootom.

Yes, you can fabricate or mass produce them, but it won't be easy to install them because those three studs are welded on from the back. This is the back side.
Modified by 94_240sx at 7:15 AM 11/14/2008

I fixed the other clip and updated the thread. Installation procedure will follow soon.

Good stuff! I was just thinking about this too. When I bought the car I was pointing out things that were wrong with it and one of those things was a gap between the back of the quarter window and the top. He reached over right away a pushed on it before I could tell him no and I heard a 'snap'. I just checked and yeah you can move it front to back when rolled halfway down. What made you do this? Was there a gap?

jamesblonde82 wrote: and i also want to add that lubricating regularly, i use graphite and silicone based stuff, will help these little nylon pieces last longer. i lubricate all my moving parts at least 3 times a year.

What parts do you lube? Do you just spray the stuff down in there?

It took about 8 hours to install. My idea didn't work well. It turned out below fix holds the rail better. I installed the original one but ended up taking it out again to redo it just like this.



It was really hard to align the window perfectly especially when the top was up, but I was able to finally make it several hours later. I had the quarter window up and down numerous times, so my battery died too. I was prepared for it, so it wasn't a big deal. Anyway, I took some pics, so I'll update the thread soon.

You don't have any fitment or rubbing issues with the fabricated metal piece?

loki wrote:You don't have any fitment or rubbing issues with the fabricated metal piece?

Nope! Not at all. I think actually it works even better than stock plastic piece. Whoever designed this quarter window system is an idiot. Servicing quarter window every couple of years is just too much.

Here's the installation process.

This is a bottom bolt. Screw it all the way in. Don't put two bolts on the top yet.

There's a 'V' shaped slot and bottom bolt will go through there. This is the only and best way you can put the whole assembly in.

You have to tilt the assembly to clear 'V' shaped slot.

Once it's in, push the assembly to outside and you will have enough space to put two top bolts back on. You'll have to screw them all the way in to push it up and put those two bolts in the holes.

At first, it's not aligned at all. You are going to put three flare nuts and work your way to align it.

You have to consider many things. Like height, angle, clearance...etc.

Make sure that seatbelt post clears window. If you don't do this, rubber trim on the window will wear out.

Move the assembly around, raise and lower the window constantly to align it.

Window on the door should look like this to seal better.

It's getting better.

Both windows should be pararell to each other.

It's getting pretty close.

Seatbelt holder/slot shouldn't touch the window. I have 1-2mm clearance between seat belt holder/slot and rubber trim on the window.

It looks like it's done.

The tip of window should show a little bit here.

I put a small interior trim back on.

Interior panel and seats are in.

Guess what? When I close the top, window got stuck at this position and wouldn't go up.

There was also gap between the window and the trim.

I had to remove everything, and did it all over again. The window had to move forward about 2-3mm to go up when the top is close and move to outside 1-2mm to touch the outer trim.

Anyway, I was able to align it perfectly later, and it goes up and down with no problem. Most of all, there's no gap between top frame and window when top is closed and window is all the way up. I'm talking about upper right hand corner when you look at driver's side quarter window. This is something that I don't want to deal with again in the future. It's not fun at all.

94_240sx wrote:Here's the installation process.

This is a bottom bolt. Screw it all the way in. Don't put two bolts on the top yet.

There's a 'V' shaped slot and bottom bolt will go through there. This is the only and best way you can put the whole assembly in.

You have to tilt the assembly to clear 'V' shaped slot.

Once it's in, push the assembly to outside and you will have enough space to put two top bolts back on. You'll have to screw them all the way in to push it up and put those two bolts in the holes.

At first, it's not aligned at all. You are going to put three flare nuts and work your way to align it.

You have to consider many things. Like height, angle, clearance...etc.

Make sure that seatbelt post clears window. If you don't do this, rubber trim on the window will wear out.

Move the assembly around, raise and lower the window constantly to align it.

Window on the door should look like this to seal better.

It's getting better.

Both windows should be pararell to each other.

It's getting pretty close.

Seatbelt holder/slot shouldn't touch the window. I have 1-2mm clearance between seat belt holder/slot and rubber trim on the window.

It looks like it's done.

The tip of window should show a little bit here.

I put a small interior trim back on.

Interior panel and seats are in.

Guess what? When I close the top, window got stuck at this position and wouldn't go up.

There was also gap between the window and the trim.

I had to remove everything, and did it all over again. The window had to move forward about 2-3mm to go up when the top is close and move to outside 1-2mm to touch the outer trim.

Anyway, I was able to align it perfectly later, and it goes up and down with no problem. Most of all, there's no gap between top frame and window when top is closed and window is all the way up. I'm talking about upper right hand corner when you look at driver's side quarter window. This is something that I don't want to deal with again in the future. It's not fun at all.

hi I am having ths same problem with my windows I still am trying ot fix the plastics can you help me out

opps sorry I am the one who posted the last one please call me 305-794-5175

Bought my supplies today (plastic epoxy, small sheet of metal, new tin snips and super glue). Cost me about $20. I'll try and get it done this week. Thanks for the great write up! I'll let y'all know how it works for me.

wmdavis007 wrote:Bought my supplies today (plastic epoxy, small sheet of metal, new tin snips and super glue). Cost me about $20. I'll try and get it done this week. Thanks for the great write up! I'll let y'all know how it works for me.

Cool. I also updated the hood damper thread with measurements, so get them too.

zerothread?id=293203

metz1466,I'll call tomorrow and help you.

Okay, just got off the phone with metz1466 and realized that I should have made this more clear.

Modify plastic piece like this. Box idea didn't work, so scratch that idea. Just bend the metal piece in 'L' shape and attach it. It worked out much better on my car. You also have to find right metal piece which is strong enough to hold on to the rail.

hey i have a q when i put my window down half and i can move it back and forth i can put it up and down. the motor is slow it is not grinding the gear. can you help me out.

Sounds like what mine does. It's slow either because it's cold out or it's fighting because the guide is fugged. If you can move it back and forth the guide is fugged.

so what should i do get a whole new guide and motor or should i follow the directions on this page

I would follow the directions here

Arcadia456 wrote:so what should i do get a whole new guide

If brand new guide was avalable from Nissan dealership, I would have bought a lifetime supply of it(maybe 1-15 pairs?) and you guys know I'm not joking.

ok I talk with the man today he help me out with the guides will get a stronger metal and remove the broken piece, what I forgot to ask was can the top be tested to see if its goes correctly up and down ( had new cylinders installed ) they wont test it without the windows installed ??? please let me know I had a new one put in and they wont test it until they get the windows back.

metz1466 wrote:ok I talk with the man today he help me out with the guides will get a stronger metal and remove the broken piece, what I forgot to ask was can the top be tested to see if its goes correctly up and down ( had new cylinders installed ) they wont test it without the windows installed ??? please let me know I had a new one put in and they wont test it until they get the windows back.

You can go ahead and test. Quarter windows will always go down if you close or open the top. Nothing will get hurt, so go ahead and test the top.

so I don't nedd to have the windows in place to test the top right the motor will run and the arm that connects to the guide wont get in the way or hurt right ???

metz1466 wrote:so I don't nedd to have the windows in place to test the top right the motor will run and the arm that connects to the guide wont get in the way or hurt right ???

That is correct. You can lower the quarter windows by using the switch. Just make sure this arm doesn't get stuck anywhere. When you operate the top, quarter window won't move at all once they are lowered all the way down.

yes that is right but will the windows arm try to go up when you raise the top up?? because when the windows are in they go up as you raise the top . please explain . I'll call you so you can explain thanks

metz1466 wrote:yes that is right but will the windows arm try to go up when you raise the top up?? because when the windows are in they go up as you raise the top . please explain . I'll call you so you can explain thanks

Eh??? Something different. On my car, quarter windows always go down when I hit 'Top Up' or 'Top Down' switch. I think that makes perfect sense because quarter windows won't go into the slots on the frame properly if both of them go up together. You know what I mean? I wonder how it works on other people's verts. Yours is 92 and mine is 94, so it's possible that ASC changed it over the time.

Anyway, that arm will kinda move around, but it won't hurt anything, so just go ahead and test the top. If you are worried, you can unplug quarter window motors and test.

soa re you saying that on yours the quarter windows dont move up when putting the top up?? WOW THAT IS DIFFERENT so they should put the motor in the down position and then unplug it right??

metz1466 wrote:soa re you saying that on yours the quarter windows dont move up when putting the top up?? WOW THAT IS DIFFERENT so they should put the motor in the down position and then unplug it right??

No, they don't move up when I close the top. I have to use a switch to close the quarter windows after top is up. Yeah, this is very interesting find.

Yes, unplug the motor in the down position and you can test the top.