This install was done on a Redtop SR20 and is for an electric sensor/gauge.

Tools/items required for this install:

26mm wrench/socket or an adjustable wrench¾” wrench14mm wrench3/16” wrenchWire strippers and cuttersWire crimpers or soldering ironLength of wire (18-gauge) long enough to run from your sensor location, through the firewall, and to your gauge locationRing terminal Teflon tapeStar/lock washer

First, jack up your car, or drive up some ramps as I did. Engage the parking brake and chock the rear wheels on both sides and in the front and rear using four chocks total (please excuse the dented fender from previous owner )

Next, disconnect your battery.

Then, locate your stock sensor by the oil filter and remove it. Your SR will not leak oil from the hole (unless you start the motor) so you don't have to drain the oil. This sensor requires a 26mm socket/wrench, or an adjustable wrench (which I used).

Here it is removed.

Here is the stock sensor, the oil pressure sensor that came with the Autometer gauge, and the adapter for the sensor (the sensor diameter is too large to just thread it into the stock location next to the oil filter), nuts to attach the wire lead for the gauge to the top of the sensor, and some Teflon tape.

Here again are the required tools for this particular install: 3/4” wrench (for the adapter), 14mm wrench (for the Autometer sensor), 3/16” wrench (for the nuts that hold the wire lead for the gauge on the sensor), adjustable wrench (for the stock sensor), wire strippers, and wire crimpers (or a soldering iron).

Here is the stock sensor installed on the adapter (using the ¾” wrench and the adjustable or 26mm wrench) to cap it off (I didn’t have a plug for it). When you wrap the threads with Teflon tape remember to wrap it in the opposite direction that you will tighten the threads. Clockwise tightens, so wrap the tape counter-clockwise. Wrap it around the threads with 4-6 complete rotations to ensure a good seal.

Thread just the adapter and stock sensor into the previous location by the oil filter using the ¾” wrench (I forgot to take a picture before I threaded the Autometer sensor in). This adapter has two locations that you can use to thread the Autometer sensor into. As you can see, one (the bottom one) is plugged off. Tighten the adapter down, remembering to leave the open port facing upwards and slightly angled towards the firewall. Space is tight and due to the size of the Autometer sensor it only fits in this area at this angle. Thread the Autometer sensor on by hand and tighten it with the 14mm wrench.

Using the wire strippers and crimpers (or soldering iron), attach the ring terminal onto a length of wire (18-gauge wire is fine)

The wire runs b/t the runners on the intake manifold (it's the one that looks like it's going into the fuel filter) I put spiral wrap around it bc it is a green wire. It goes back to split loom tubing that follows the engine harness along the firewall & houses the wires/hose for my gauges.

Here comes the fun part. Place the ring terminal onto its location atop the sensor, place the star/lock washer on after that, tighten the nut down by hand and then use the 3/16” wrench for final tightening. This is a very tight area. I found that going over the top of the starter allowed for better access to tighten the nut by hand and with the wrench. You can still hook-up your stock sensor, but since I didn't do the wiring harness, I don't know if the wire for the idiot light was even left in. After that you are all done (it’s hard to see, but the wire is attached now).

Take the wire along your preferred route through the firewall to the gauge location. I did not cover hooking up the gauge because this has been covered in other threads, plus it was the wife’s birthday, so I didn’t want to spend anymore time disconnecting and then reconnecting all the gauge wiring. Upset wife FTL Make all the appropriate connections to the gauge then, after double checking all connections, hook the battery back up, start the car, and check to see if your gauge works. We have pressure . Check to make sure that there are no leaks, and then go for a drive!


Modified by homeslicej2 at 5:28 PM 1/17/2010

Cool writeup. I like!

Thanks

Yay!!!!!!! I've been waiting for something like this. Since I have no tool to determine pitch, does this look about the right pitch for the stock sensor thingy?



Secondly I've heard that the brass adapter's have a tendency to break off. True or no?

Nice work man

why not run a small hose, to remotely install the gauge sensor.

pr240sx wrote:why not run a small hose, to remotely install the gauge sensor.

That's what I did. I ran a copper line to another distribution block, and ran both the stock idiot light, and the oil pressure sending unit off that. The speed/response time is a little sluggish and doesn't update as fast... But I don't have to worry about all that weight hanging off one brass fitting.. I'll get some pics for you guys shortly.

Good work though. I love pictures.

Sorry for the noob question but, thats a electronic gauge right? i been wanting to install a oil pressure gauge on my 240 but really have no clue wat to do. i bought a gauge and notice there isnt any wires only a small hose. im guessing its a mechcanical gauge. which is better? again for the newbie question just curious. oh and thanks for the write-up this going to be really helpful soon.

redtop91 wrote:Yay!!!!!!! I've been waiting for something like this. Since I have no tool to determine pitch, does this look about the right pitch for the stock sensor thingy?



Secondly I've heard that the brass adapter's have a tendency to break off. True or no?

Nice work man

The pic is kinda blurry, but once you pull the stock one out you can visually compare the two then carefully and slowly start threading your adapter into the stock location. As long as it's close, it should work since the Teflon tape will seal it up. If you can get one that is the same though, that would be best. My adapter has been fine, the sensor doesn't weigh that much. Brass, though, like aluminum, is softer and weaker than iron or steel, so it's possible, but I doubt you'd have to worry about it, unless your sensor is esp. heavy. Thanks and glad I could help you out Ryon.

pr240sx wrote:why not run a small hose, to remotely install the gauge sensor.

You could, but this stuff is what came with my gauge, so until I have issues with it, or when I get the big stuff done and have money to spend on the little stuff, I'll leave it as is.

eazye2000 wrote:That's what I did. I ran a copper line to another distribution block, and ran both the stock idiot light, and the oil pressure sending unit off that. The speed/response time is a little sluggish and doesn't update as fast... But I don't have to worry about all that weight hanging off one brass fitting.. I'll get some pics for you guys shortly.

Good work though. I love pictures.

Thanks man. Yeah, post up your set-up too for those who want a DIY remote set-up. Again though, the sensor (at least mine) isn't really that heavy, so unless you're jumping railroad tracks or something, I don't think it will cause problems.

slipstream_pnoy wrote:Sorry for the noob question but, thats a electronic gauge right? i been wanting to install a oil pressure gauge on my 240 but really have no clue wat to do. i bought a gauge and notice there isnt any wires only a small hose. im guessing its a mechcanical gauge. which is better? again for the newbie question just curious. oh and thanks for the write-up this going to be really helpful soon.

Yes, it's an electronic gauge. I edited my first line in the thread to state that now. You have a mech. gauge. Old school guys like the mech. gauges bc they feel they are more accurate. I think with today's technology, if you buy a quality electronic gauge it will work fine. Plus, if, and when, that hose fails and ruptures, you get oil in the cabin and lose pressure too. You're welcome too. I didn't think this write-up would be that helpful, glad it is to some.

Yeah I don't think the breaking off will be an issue since my sensor is in the gauge itself being mech type and mine have stainless tubing covering the hose. So have you finally nailed out all of the cut corners that the shop took?

Shouldn't have a problem then Not yet Still have this to fix thisThis is leaking (getting worse too) PS fluid. They used this when installing the PS system onto my SOHC chassis. I think maybe some Teflon tape might fix it? hmm...maybe? Other than that, and the jacked up looking "professional" wire harness (again they got rid of the guy that did, but still not cool to give a customer sub-par sh1t. I feel they should've bitten the bullet and done another, cleaner one). Other than this stuff, and cleaning up some sloppy fit and finish work (aka wires/front bumper/etc. rubbing things like the intercooler), it's pretty much done. I sat and tallied the cost of taxes and labor for the install (the parts were priced very competitively so I couldn't have really gotten much cheaper costs unless I spent a long time waiting on the best sales/deals) spent $2400 bucks on labor and taxes. I want to slap myself. I could have used that for paint, turbo upgrade, better suspension stuff, other upgrades, etc. Oh well, lesson learned. Some people's ideas about high quality are different than others and I'm pretty f*cking anal about my car. They're pretty good people, are very willing to make things right, but they are too far from me to run back and forth all the time, but I feel for their costs they should have done a better overall job. /rant

Breaking off would be the least of my worries, you guys are using brass on aluminum. I was under the impression that this corrodes because of the reaction between the two metals.

Maybe, but so does iron on oxygen, but it still takes a long time for your car to rust (usually). I think you're under the wrong impression considering mixing brass and alum. make a stronger (than normal brass), highly corrosion resistant alloy. Besides, I don't think that universal adapters for things like this come in iron or alum. When I can afford the big ballin stuff I'll get everything in alum. even if I have to have it custom made. Until then, I'll go with what the manufacturer of the gauge sends with their stuff.
Modified by homeslicej2 at 3:27 PM 8/29/2007

where did u get that fitting? wouldnt it be some metric to standard conversion adapter. arent the autometer sending units 1/8 npt and the stock sending unit hole is 10x1.0 ... ive looked, cant find anything...

the sending unit jus sends the reading to the dummy light right?? if so do you really need the sensor plugged back in since you have a gauge now?? i'm a noob to this gauge stuff..

Nah you don't need it. I would use it myself though. It's hard to see the gauge if you are focusing on the road. The dummy light will be a bit easier to see IMO.

Beautiful write up! Very very useful and helpful, very well organized and well written! +4

Excellent tutorial. I would try the teflon tape on that coupler, it might help. I used it on the sensors for the transmission in the past and it works. I understand your feelings about shops that get paid and perform substandard work. A lot of them play that game hoping that you will get tired and stop hassling them or going back for repairs eventually...

PS. Take the wife out for a steak dinner, you bum....

While the tutorial itself is awesome, I don't really know if it was needed haha. Take one out, put a new one in. Excellent write-up none the less.

When I did mine for my GReddy my old was was pracitally welded in there. It was SO hard to get out. In the process I dented the oil filter which immediately started leaking, so I ended up doing an oil change too. \o/ The sensor is below the filter on my SR though...?

Good write up. I will throw in this little info though. Auto meter makes a steel braided line that will eliminate potential breaking of the sending unit from vibration. It also includes the proper adapter for threading the s/u into the engine.

so theres no need to t it and reconnect the sensor? jus double checking..

amolao wrote:A lot of them play that game hoping that you will get tired and stop hassling them or going back for repairs eventually...

PS. Take the wife out for a steak dinner, you bum....

That shop will never get my business again. I kick myself in the butt everytime I think about the extra ~$2000 or so I wasted on labor there (they had good pricing on their parts), but I'm finally getting over it and moving on. My wife wouldn't get a steak dinner, she wouldn't want to waste it, she eats like a bird lol. I did try teflon on the P/S coupling, I also took it off and tried re-flaring the ends. Still leaked, I finally just bought a SS line made for the SR swap into the 240 from a askme4parts on eGay. (I didn't know DJbutton was selling his at the time. sorry Dan )

Clawhammer wrote:While the tutorial itself is awesome, I don't really know if it was needed haha. Take one out, put a new one in. Excellent write-up none the less.

you cut me deep man Point taken, but I thought it was a good idea at the time and figured that it could help newbs the most.

240life wrote:.... Auto meter makes a steel braided line that will eliminate potential breaking of the sending unit from vibration. It also includes the proper adapter for threading the s/u into the engine.

Link to said line?

nice_try wrote:so theres no need to t it and reconnect the sensor? jus double checking..

Like redtop said, I would reconnect it. It's an extra check and you're more likely to notice a red light pop up while driving than see your gauge fall to 0.

thanks for all the..uh..thanks's (I guess that's how you do it ) Thanks everybody

Wasn't trying to make you bleed your own blood! The more info the merrier I say.

I am about to install the same gauge in my SR20DET. I just have a straight npt to bspt adapter for the sender. Do you think the autometer sender will fit, or do I need a perpendicular adapter like what you have?

Clean install. Thanks for the DIY info!

Very nice and detailed. I like.

^thanks guys

whiplash willy wrote:I am about to install the same gauge in my SR20DET. I just have a straight npt to bspt adapter for the sender. Do you think the autometer sender will fit, or do I need a perpendicular adapter like what you have?

It will not if you have the same sender without an adapter like mine, or something to relocate it elsewhere (like the firewall). The sensor diameter is too large to just thread it into the stock dummy light sensor location next to the oil filter.

Clawhammer wrote:Wasn't trying to make you bleed your own blood! The more info the merrier I say.

yay friends! I knew you weren't trying to give me too hard a time. How's your tranny? I saw you post that it was broken. Makes me worry more about mine.

homeslicej2 wrote:

I think the wheel chocks are in the wrong spot.

I agree.... The car will roll right down the driveway like that!

Lol "Why the heck is the car moving!"

http://prosportgauges.com/remo....aspx

i believe this was requested.