Hoffman5982's Super Awesome Driveway Swap- Finally Running

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
Hoffman5982
Posts: 1805
Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 7:20 pm
Car: '95 sr20det 240sx

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Im thinking that I might just try it and hope for the best... I mean mine is now bosically a red top so it should work :gapteeth:


Hoffman5982
Posts: 1805
Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 7:20 pm
Car: '95 sr20det 240sx

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Quick question you guys

I was about to reconnect the fuel lines, and as I was pulling the cut hose from the fuel rail, I found this little bigger inside. It isn't broken off of anything. Should I put this in the new hose?
Image

Hoffman5982
Posts: 1805
Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 7:20 pm
Car: '95 sr20det 240sx

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Thanks for the help guys.
Got some more stuff done:
-Installed transmission mounts
-Got an upper radiator hose
-connected clutch slave cylinder hose
-Ran cables and hooked up battery in trunk
-And other small things

I also found out that the intercooler piping is preventing me from remounting the window washer fluid reservoir back in the correct location. So what do you do in a situation like this? You go to your fridge, look for a bottle that looks worthy, and convert it to a reservoir.


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I then drilled a hole for the pump thingy
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And SHAZAM
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random engine shot. I realize the hot pip is gone
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Im going to try to have it ready for the first startup attempt tomorrow. Keep your fingers crossed!

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badbob2121
Posts: 1989
Joined: Sat Jan 16, 2010 9:23 am
Car: '92 Nissan 240SXS13 Hatch ELLIS JUAN
'12 Ford Mustang GT RTR
Location: St. Louis

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not sure about the cranberry bottle reservoir... i just left mine out...

Hoffman5982
Posts: 1805
Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 7:20 pm
Car: '95 sr20det 240sx

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Lol, well if it doesn't work for some reason, Ill rip it out

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badbob2121
Posts: 1989
Joined: Sat Jan 16, 2010 9:23 am
Car: '92 Nissan 240SXS13 Hatch ELLIS JUAN
'12 Ford Mustang GT RTR
Location: St. Louis

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Hoffman5982 wrote:Lol, well if it doesn't work for some reason, Ill rip it out

true, i just have been following your build and know how much QUALITY effort you have put into it... you should weld up an aluminum reservoir or something crazy/rare... that would be original :naughty:

Hoffman5982
Posts: 1805
Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 7:20 pm
Car: '95 sr20det 240sx

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Well Im not taking any welding classes til next semester. Maybe then Ill be able to whip up something spiffy

Hoffman5982
Posts: 1805
Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 7:20 pm
Car: '95 sr20det 240sx

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Sneak peak!!

Can anyone say gauges?
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ONtwoTURNTABLEs
Posts: 8
Joined: Thu Sep 02, 2010 1:42 am
Car: '90 s13 Fastback

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wow man.. that gauge setup is sick
you got me pumped on my swap.. wish I was far along as you.. good luck with start-up (hopefully)tomorrow

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Lonismos14
Posts: 1351
Joined: Fri Sep 18, 2009 5:35 am
Car: 1995 Nissan 240sx, 1999 Chevy Hoe, 1996 Saturn Sl2

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Any updates?

Hoffman5982
Posts: 1805
Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 7:20 pm
Car: '95 sr20det 240sx

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You know, Ive stopped posting because everytime I say Ill have it started in the next few days, some random a** thing pops off and sets that back. So im just going to leave it at soon. very soon

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PyR0NiAk
Posts: 3851
Joined: Sun Mar 01, 2009 4:29 pm
Car: S13 SR W/ T2 GT3071R .86AR, JWT S4 Cams, 810cc Injectors,Z32 MAF, JWT tuned ECU 87mm 9:1 Compression CP pistons, Manley Rods
Location: Ohio
Contact:

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I know this feeling WAY too well..

Yasko
Posts: 110
Joined: Thu Dec 31, 2009 12:33 pm

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vvvvvvvvvv
Last edited by Yasko on Tue Mar 29, 2011 3:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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nismoSIRCY_714
Posts: 9
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 11:33 am
Car: 1990 300zx N/A 5 speed

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very clean build!!!! props

Hoffman5982
Posts: 1805
Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 7:20 pm
Car: '95 sr20det 240sx

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I've lost 3 intercooler coupling clamps, I've scratched the bay in quite a few places, and I didn't get to start my car tonight as planned. It's been a bad night

Hoffman5982
Posts: 1805
Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 7:20 pm
Car: '95 sr20det 240sx

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Ok so not much luck today. I can hear the starter clicking, but I dont think the ecu is getting power because the check engine light doesnt appear.

To the guy who asked at the beginning of this thread why this wasn't in the sr section, my answer is because if/when I need help, the sr section is 100% worthless. Three times I have gone in there asking a question, and I've gotten a ton of views, but no one seems to want to help. So I will ask me question here:

Where does the main harness plug into the lower harness/fuse panel? What does the plug look like. I searched the net literally for over 4 hours today and couldn't find anything. The closest thing I could find was a guy saying the sr plug won't match the ka chassis harness, so you have to take it off the ka harness and splice it in, but the sr has more wires on the plug, but you just cut them off. That doesn't tell me what the plug looks like, much less how many wires there are. I've gone over every bit of the harness identifying what plugs into what, and there are no leftover plugs. Does anyone know?

also, the purple plug on my IACV is apparently broken off. I looked at the ka and it has the same one(not whole IACV, just the little sensor thing that the plug is attached to), does anyone know if I can use the one from the ka?

If anyone know the answer this, please let me know.


On a side note, I'm going to have to extend just about every plug to hid it as much as I want to, so that just set me back. Also, I have a gas leak. I think it's just the small hose the goes from the bottom of the fuel filter to the metal line. Looks like I tightened too much and cut the rubber. Oh well.

Hoffman5982
Posts: 1805
Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 7:20 pm
Car: '95 sr20det 240sx

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More great news!!! My brand new gas tank is leaking!!!!!

Hoffman5982
Posts: 1805
Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 7:20 pm
Car: '95 sr20det 240sx

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So today I spent the 4 hours between school and work studying the ka and sr dash harness pinouts and drew up a new schematic for the repin. I went ahead and wired in the cruise control so that whenever I have the bracket made for it I can just plug it in. I'm about to go back over it once more to make sure I have the a/c in there right. Once I repin it(tomorrow), I have to go back and extend just about every plug to be able to run it out of sight as much as possible, which sucks because I've already sleeved all of it.

I'm not sure about the gas tank. It didn't leak before pulling the engine, so i don't see why it would now when nothing has hit it or anything. I'm hoping that it just did the same thing it did when I first installed it, which is when I cranked it, the air in the lines blew out of one of the hoses where it connected to the nipple on the tank, and gas came out too. It never did it after that. Today, I could hear the fuel pump prime, which I did about 5 times when turning the key, so maybe it's from air in the lines? I hope so.

I've come to the conclusion that I am not missing a plug for the chassis harness. I guess it connects some other way? Can someone please confirm this or shed some light one it?

Now my main concern is the IACV. From what I've read, the purple plug just causes the rpms to raise when the a/c starts, or something like that. So I should be able to run it for now since I am not running a/c for a little while. But when I do, Ill need the sensor. So if anyone knows if the one from the ka will work or not, let me know.

One last thing, My clutch fluid is completely out. So my pedal goes to the floor and stays. I put a little brake fluid in, pumped it a few times to get the fluid circulating, but it didn't leave the clutch master cylinder. Does the engine have to crank for this to happen? or is something wrong?

Thanks everyone. I hope to have all of this completed sometime sunday, and then I attempt to start her again.

Hoffman5982
Posts: 1805
Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 7:20 pm
Car: '95 sr20det 240sx

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UPDATE!!!

I finally got to crank my car for the first time yesterday. The first couple of startups were pretty rough, but after a few minutes running it smoothed out a little. It idled at about 1k, which I know is pretty high, and the temps astayed right where they needed to be when it warmed up. On the first couple of startups, it would rev from 1k-2.5k, and drap down to about 700 rpms over and over by itself, and if I gave it a little bit of gas it would try to die. After it warmed up, It stopped doing it, and I could get it to about 2.5k rpms and then it would drop. And the engine shakes quite a bit. I have the engine bolted in, but not completely torqued down to spec. Would that cause this?

I then unplugged the ecu and everything and went to work. When i got home a friend came over to see it, so I hooked everything back up and tried to crank it, but all I got was the alternator clicking, and then I noticed some smoke. I got out to see what was causing it, and the wire I was using to temporarily ground the alternator literally melted. I replaced it, and got the same clicking result but no melting wire. We jumped the battery off, and the car would turn over but not crank.

I'm extremely happy. She started up perfectly after it had run all the crud out of the system. I still have to extend a few of the plugs on the harness and put everything back together. Hopefully I can get most of the stuff out of the way tomorrow.

I ended up making my own wiring diagram for the dash plug. So far, everything works great. the temp and rpm gauge read just fine. I didn't the speed sensor or anything like that plugged in so we'll see about that. I used these 2 diagrams with no luck. I couldn't even get power to the ecu:

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/209158-ho ... assis.html (wiring at the bottom of first post)
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i40/h ... 006wu0.png

I'm not calling these guys out or anything, but neither of them worked for me.

Here is the one I made. Maybe it can help people with this swap, or atleast proved them with a template.
As you can see, pins 1,2,9,&10 are for cruise control. Just thought I'd point that out.
Image


And here is the video of the car running. Unfortunately the video file for the first start is messed up, so Im going to see if I can make it play right. The car has no exhaust, which is why it sounds the way it does

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F3dnVuUrDSU[/youtube]

Hoffman5982
Posts: 1805
Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 7:20 pm
Car: '95 sr20det 240sx

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I just noticed, pin 23(starter signal) is labled as orange/blue, but its actually orange/black. Sorry, I was really tired.

Small, crappy update:

The car started once today, ran for 10 seconds, and died. Since then, it just turns over but doesn't actually crank.

I check for spark, re-gapped the spark plugs to .44, checked fuel injectors and fuel lines, adjusted TPS from .97 volts back to .45, and checked all the grounds. Everything looked fine, but it still won't crank. I can let it sit for 30 seconds to a minute, and turn the key and it'll try to start but die instantly. I'm at a loss as to what is the cause. I pulled the harness out, went over all of it to make sure there wasn't anything wrong, and it was fine.

Anyone have any suggestions?

Hoffman5982
Posts: 1805
Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 7:20 pm
Car: '95 sr20det 240sx

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wow, Nico has been really helpful. Ya'll can reply to someone's thread about fu**ing burnt pizza but you can't help people out?

anyways, timing chain was somehow 7 teeth off. removing oil pan tonight to see if i can fix it. Not that anyone cares. I think Ill be moving to zilvia now.

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bersh240
Posts: 1048
Joined: Thu Oct 01, 2009 3:05 pm
Location: lancaster

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LOVE THE WASHER BOTTLE.
i just made new brackets for mine to move it over.

nico has become a horrible site in the last few months.
all the usefull people left :(
howd the timing shift so much tho..?

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badbob2121
Posts: 1989
Joined: Sat Jan 16, 2010 9:23 am
Car: '92 Nissan 240SXS13 Hatch ELLIS JUAN
'12 Ford Mustang GT RTR
Location: St. Louis

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well honestly its hard to diagnose a problem when its not in front of you.... maybe you should have gotten some help with this swap in the first place, relying on a forrum shouldnt have been your plan b....

this has been such a clean swap so far and then you went into a hissy fit

enjoy zilvia

omgshawn
Posts: 231
Joined: Sun May 02, 2010 5:12 pm
Car: S13, EG hatch

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Unless you have tens of thousands of dollars in parts and tons of pictures in your thread no one on Nico cares..s*** I thought when I posted that I was building a V8 AWD s13 I would get more traffic..nope

If you need help let me know, I'm not the best with SR's but I'm sure I can help

Hoffman5982
Posts: 1805
Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 7:20 pm
Car: '95 sr20det 240sx

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badbob2121 wrote:well honestly its hard to diagnose a problem when its not in front of you.... maybe you should have gotten some help with this swap in the first place, relying on a forrum shouldnt have been your plan b....

this has been such a clean swap so far and then you went into a hissy fit

enjoy zilvia

if that's your definition of a hissy fit then I'm sorry. all I said was noone has even tried to help so I'm going to zilvia. that's it. I'm not relying on this forum. if I was I wouldn't be able to get even halfway done. if you didnt notice, I figured just about all of it out except the iacv sensor. the Guy above is right. this forum is nothing but people telling new comers to search instead of actually trying to help them out. I've been tired of it for a while now which is why I don't visit this site like I used to. it used to be a great site, but now its filled with nothing but a**holes

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badbob2121
Posts: 1989
Joined: Sat Jan 16, 2010 9:23 am
Car: '92 Nissan 240SXS13 Hatch ELLIS JUAN
'12 Ford Mustang GT RTR
Location: St. Louis

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well then do what i do..

no one says you cant belong to both :gotme

half the build threads here on nico are on zilvia too...

zilvia has more traffic... but that always a good thing..
Last edited by badbob2121 on Thu Sep 16, 2010 8:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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S14Kouki10
Posts: 472
Joined: Thu Feb 25, 2010 6:13 pm
Car: 1997 240sx
Location: TX

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maybe no one had any good suggestions so instead of giving you bad suggestions, no one replied.

like if zilvia was any better..

Hoffman5982
Posts: 1805
Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 7:20 pm
Car: '95 sr20det 240sx

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The biggest thing Im getting tired with this site isn't so much the lack of help or the popularity contest, but its the

" SEARCH YOU FU**ING NOOB :picard: :lock: :ban: :facepalm: "

most of the time they know the answers, but they'd rather be d!ck's to the guy who asks a simple question.

if someone asks what kind of oil to use, fu**ing tell him royal purple 10w-30. If the same person repeatedly asks silly questions THEN tell him to search

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TimTurboZ
Posts: 663
Joined: Mon Oct 06, 2008 8:59 pm
Car: 95 S14 w/RBXX... 65' Mustang GT
Location: Sacramento, CA

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Hoffman5982 wrote:I just noticed, pin 23(starter signal) is labled as orange/blue, but its actually orange/black. Sorry, I was really tired.

Small, crappy update:

The car started once today, ran for 10 seconds, and died. Since then, it just turns over but doesn't actually crank.

I check for spark, re-gapped the spark plugs to .44, checked fuel injectors and fuel lines, adjusted TPS from .97 volts back to .45, and checked all the grounds. Everything looked fine, but it still won't crank. I can let it sit for 30 seconds to a minute, and turn the key and it'll try to start but die instantly. I'm at a loss as to what is the cause. I pulled the harness out, went over all of it to make sure there wasn't anything wrong, and it was fine.

Anyone have any suggestions?

Just a thought...does your car have gas in the tank?

TheBlaiant
Posts: 300
Joined: Sat Jul 25, 2009 9:54 am
Car: Slow40sx
Location: Miami, FL
Contact:

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Could be the fuel pump.


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