EVERYONE, change your clutch fluid!!!!!!!

[joe603]

Good info...however

...the clutch fluid does get hot, and gets hotter when you drive aggressively; the harder you push it, the more friction is induced. Check out this thread from a vette forum, some of their clutches have the same issues that some of our G35/350z's have:

http://forums.corvetteforum.co...08838

Another...

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/....html

[SpeedRacer1]

That info along with a couple other threads still sound more like theory than any actual fact. Some who have had "impotent" pedals say they fixed their problems with replaced slave cylinders, some think its boiling because the line is close to the exhaust manifold. The only problem I see with this is that there are plenty of clutch piping systems that are very close to even hotter exhaust manifolds.

Ive never heard of this ever happening on a 240SX, and the piping has to travel over the turbo (on swapped/turbo 240's) to get to the slave cylinder.

Bottom line is if your going to change the fluid, dont half a$$ it with some turkey baster. Bleed the system properly. It really doesnt take that much time or technical know-how.

[Tampa G35 Sedan 6MT]

then what would you explain is the problem with the cluch pedal... Is that some type of safty thing that INFINITI uses to prevent the car from spinning out of control. That is my only guess becasue the only way to vary the power from the motor to the wheels in a manual is by using the clutch. wouldn't that be why our pedals stick to the floor? It keeps the pedal in so that it doesn't have to match the revs and apply more power than is needed to the wheels. It is like the manual VDC

[joe603]

That's what I initially thought...but not everyone has this problem, which is weird in itself.

Using a syringe to remove the spent fluid is just a quick and clean way to replace the nasty fluid. If you want to bleed it, then by all means go ahead.

I've heard of other solutions to fix the problem such as: drilling a hole (not sure where), replacing the rubber line with steel, and replacing the entire clutch....now if you replace the clutch and the problem goes away, then you would think that the clutch is the culprit.

All I know is that going to a higher rated DOT fluid stops the clutch pedal from sticking to the floor.

[SpeedRacer1]

One last thing I did not realize, some vettes have the slave cylinder "inside" the bellhousing, and thus the fluid comes into much greater contact with the heat from clutch componants. This may account for their boiling issues. However the G35 slave cylinder is outside the bellhousing...

[joe603]

....so why is it that the higher DOT level stops the clutch pedal from sticking to the floor with high RPM launches???

[SpeedRacer1]

I just said that the slave cylinder on the other cars you are referring to is internal. Meaning it heats up more because it is in much greater contact with hot clutch parts. The fluid actually runs into the bellhousing, goes into the slave cylinder which is mounted next to the pressure plate, and comes back out. So the fluid IS getting hotter on those other cars.

But there is no reason fluid should get that hot on a G35 since it has an external slave cylinder.

[accordfreak]

thanks for the info. i'll check mine out.

[coupleGs]

Correct. The clutch fluid should't get hot. It's sort of like the powersteering fluid. It's just hydraulic fluid used to lube and keep pressure.

Shoundnt get hot, but only one way to find out. After a couple hour drive, stick ur finger in the resevior and feel it. Should be cool.

Also, if the G35 Slave cylinder is external, anyone know exactly where it is? I can't see to find it and want to change my fluid.

Don't want to syphon is out cause thats just a waste of time.

[Tampa G35 Sedan 6MT]

My pedal is still sticking sometimes. Just not as much as it was. What could be causing this to happen?

[SpeedRacer1]

Also, if the G35 Slave cylinder is external, anyone know exactly where it is? I can't see to find it and want to change my fluid.

Its on the drivers side of the transmission, near the exhaust manifold. So be sure the exhaust is cool before working in that area. It is the black thing strapped to the trans in the pic...

[infinititech1]

i never saw this happen on any g35 i worked on or never had this complaint...of course i didn't go out popping customers clutches all the time either. there is no safety feature on the car to keep it staying on the floor. i pulled many of those transmissions out. the fluid will not boil. i'll chime back in this thread later this evening

[joe603]

Thanks Drew! Any info would be greatly appreciated!!

The main questions are: why does changing the fluid have any impact on how the clutch responds? ...Why does this only affect a certain # of cars? How can we fix it without getting an aftermarket clutch?

[Tampa G35 Sedan 6MT]

Maybe it is the 05 and 06 models. I talked to someone that i got my mid pipe from he doesn't have that problem. He had a 04 Coupe!

[infinititech1]

honestly i dont think there is a way that the fluid could cause that to happen...

[coupleGs]

is it just me or what? but i don't see a bleeder screw anywhere on that slave cylinder.

[SpeedRacer1]

is it just me or what? but i don't see a bleeder screw anywhere on that slave cylinder.

Whats that...

[soul_hfk]

looks like 1 to me

[joe603]

Drew, is this problem covered in the factory warranty? I have less than 24k and the clutch isn't slipping.

[Tampa G35 Sedan 6MT]

yea i have 37k is that covered

[infinititech1]

warranty would be 5yr 60k. but if they can't duplicate the problem they won't do anything about it.

[Tampa G35 Sedan 6MT]

Oh i can make it happen. All you have to do is Rev it up to about 4000 rpm and dump the clutch and it will stick to the floor. Even when you try to put it in the next gear it still stays on the floor!

[joe603]

warranty would be 5yr 60k. but if they can't duplicate the problem they won't do anything about it.

Wasn't sure since the clutch is a wear item...but I just made an appointment at the dealership...I'll let you guys know what happens!

[SpeedRacer1]

Oh i can make it happen. All you have to do is Rev it up to about 4000 rpm and dump the clutch and it will stick to the floor. Even when you try to put it in the next gear it still stays on the floor!

Usually warranties cover regular driving. Dealerships dont usually cover anything that remotely sounds like racing or otherwise abusing a covered automobile. I remember Subaru sent out some tech bulletins on the STi and WRX telling their techs to look for certain signs of wear and tear on broken axles that were signs of abusive driving. That way they could deny warranty support if the car was brought in with these signs of damage.

[joe603]

The dealership said that they have seen and fixed this problem before. Having the clutch stick to the floor in a panic is a safety concern, not abusive driving.

[Tampa G35 Sedan 6MT]

Let me know the out come joe because my Sedan does the same thing. If they cover it I want to have mine done

[SpeedRacer1]

The dealership said that they have seen and fixed this problem before. Having the clutch stick to the floor in a panic is a safety concern, not abusive driving.

If the only way he can get the pedal to stick is to rev it up to 4000 and drop the clutch thats abusive driving.

[joe603]

If the only way he can get the pedal to stick is to rev it up to 4000 and drop the clutch thats abusive driving.

Not if you have to downshift and rev it to get out of a situation. (it does it when you're moving as well). Or lets say that a vehicle is coming up fast behind you at a stoplight...I'd hate for my car to not move forward like it needs to.

and...this is a sports/luxury car that should be able to handle spirited launches.

[Tampa G35 Sedan 6MT]

so what did infiniti do to your car to fix the problem

[joe603]

Taking her in tomorrow (Tuesday). I'm just afraid the clutch wont cooperate with me and shift normal

I tested it this weekend and it didn't do it! I wonder if this problem is indeed heat related (it was much cooler this weekend)