Bumping this thread.

I actually had the same issue as alphapig. My front-right center nut got loose, and made this spooky knocking sound that got progressively worse. I was afraid for my strut falling apart and tearing up my wheel well on the highway.

It turns out the center nut was loose. I tightened it up, but by the next day - it got loose again. I got some locktite and the issue went away.

I didn't attribute the fault for this problem to BC at first, because the nut that came loose was actually fabricated for me due to another issue. I had to get both the nut and the spacer that sits below it fabricated, and I assume that the guy who made it, got the thread slightly wrong. Perhaps he didn't. But it is this fabricated nut that came loose.

Why I needed to get the nut and spacer fabricated:

The reason I had to get those two parts fabricated, is because I had purchased these coilovers second hand. They had about 10k miles on them. When my mechanic disassembled one of the struts, we were shocked to find very serious wear. Below are pics of the worn parts and the good parts (from the other strut).




Close-up shots:




There must have been way too much play in one of the struts, to cause this kind of wear. I mean you can see through the metal! I bet it wouldn't have held up more than another 50 miles or so.

So that's how it led me to get those parts fabricated. At the time, I had the car in the shop already being worked on. I couldn't wait to deal with BC and try to get those parts shipped.

But after pulling out the nut to put locktite on it, I found that it was also getting worn - albeit nothing significant except a few marks along the sides, not even grooves. I asked the machiner to use the strongest metal he had. But now I'm concerned that I need to check on it once in a while; I suggest that the other BC owners do the same.

On another note, I'm getting some clangs in the front when I turn my wheel all the way to the right or left, when I'm not moving or moving very slowly. This also seems to throw my alignment off slightly and I can correct it by turning the wheel in the opposite direction. I plan to get these to hopefully resolve that issue:


http://www.jegs.com/i/QA1/122/7888-109/10002/-1

But now I'm also getting this clicking sound in the back when I'm going over a bumpy road. It's not really noticeable when going at high speed, but only when going less than 10mph. I'm not sure what there is to tighten in the back. Any ideas what that might be or what I should check?

Wow reading all these issues really makes you wonder if it's worth it to lower the ride. I couldn't stand my car when I had the TPMS light on, having any noise during driving is def gonna be an issue for me lol.

Sub'd.

my city streets are simply not built for coilovers. so i'll be putting them up for sale shortly. had em in for about 6-7 months. looking to get $650 plus shipping from canada.

My front left (drivers side) creaks when I back out from my drive way. I haven't drivent the car in a few weeks but will be driving it to Carlisle P&S show in a couple of weeks...maybe sooner as I think I need to get gas I'll let you guys know what I observed...

alhpapig - edited the OP and placed my name on the 3.5 list.

Oh jeez I haven't been keeping track of this thread...

Mainly because there are just soooo many BC issues haha.

Matter of fact I'm currently back on stock suspension in the front because the left BC lower mount is seized to absolute sh*t. As of yet no amount of brute force and PB plaster has gotten it loose.

TONS of people have this problem with BC/Megan/D2/KSport coils. Not only does dust and dirt get inside the threads, but the powder coating on the threads also starts to strip.

Planning on using more brute force. People recommend wrapping sandpaper around the threads so that one can grab onto them directly with a pipe wrench.

I posted my reply on the list.

Sorry for late response on thread deployments kill my web time. As for the issues still remain, I am literally a hair away from switching to Tein. I was going to install prior to deploying and was told to hold off as it could be fixed. Not so much, the rattle persists and the knocking in the front is progressively getting worse. I completely dismounted my front end re-preloaded and installed with lock tight. This resolved nothing. Theres my two cents....

alphapig wrote:This is for anyone who has BC coil overs, for 2.5 and 3.5 Altima coupes.

I'd like to keep a running list of members who have experienced any issues, including rattle and obnoxiously stiff/bumpy rear, even on maximum softness.

Please chime in with any comments and issues, I will keep the front page list updated.

I will not be scouring threads for people with issues; please post here.

This will greatly help Loop and his correspondence with BC development.

Altima coupe 2.5 rattle/unsatisfactory stiffness
1. AlphaPig - rear right rattle, rear very stiff compared to front
2. 2010alticoupe - rear rattle, rear very stiff compared to front
3.
4.
5.

Altima coupe 3.5 rattle/unsatisfactory stiffness
1. IBCoupe - front noisy, retaining nut prone to loosen
2. downedzephyr - rear right creaking
3. dangeris - front left creaking
4. Bori83 - front noisy, popping spring every turn/rear rattle
5.

Loop,

Sorry late response, been gone as i said last post. The clunk happens on steering. When i turn left or right, as i had some one do it and I layed looking it seemed as if the spring would spin and pop back back. I have no clue why. I torque the top, I even gave it two solid jolts from impact. As for my preload it is BC standard 4mm. I will try and do a 2-3mm. Ill le you know after this weekend.



[quote="Loop"]Bori, the front noise definitely should not happen. Does the clunk happen only during cold weather/starts? Does the clunking go away after driving a while? Did you torque the top strut bolt? Even if you did, I would use a quick jolt from a impact wrench. What is your front preload? I would try lowering the preload to 2-3 mm.quote]

Is it a clunk, or is it a clang as if the spring is binding?

My clunk came from a loose center nut when I hit a pothole or bump in the road. Tightening the nut with locktite fixed it. The clang from the spring binding happens when I turn the steering wheel and I think thats what is happening with your springs.

You wouldn't be able to tell if it's binding from under the car, because the bind occurs under the camber plate near the top.

These should fix the issue: http://www.jegs.com/i/QA1/122/7888-109/10002/-1. I ordered them, but haven't installed it yet since it will require an alignment. I will probably do it when I decide to rotate my tires.

funkee wrote:Is it a clunk, or is it a clang as if the spring is binding?

My clunk came from a loose center nut when I hit a pothole or bump in the road. Tightening the nut with locktite fixed it. The clang from the spring binding happens when I turn the steering wheel and I think thats what is happening with your springs.

You wouldn't be able to tell if it's binding from under the car, because the bind occurs under the camber plate near the top.

These should fix the issue: [url]<A class=vglnk title="Link added by VigLink" href="http://www.jegs.com/ I ordered them, but haven't installed it yet since it will require an alignment. I will probably do it when I decide to rotate my tires.

Thanks much, it is def the "clang" lol.....everyone hears it different. I seen it and it is the spring when i turn the steering wheel. Thanks for the website I just ordered and will install as soon as I can.

Many people dont like messing with coils as it throws off allignment. Im probably preaching to the choir, but I purchsed the lifetime allignment with Firestone. If thats something you havent done.

Thanks

Ive decided I will never get BC coils with all these prOblems

for all you saying that the ride quality isint very good, it appears that Swift Springs has teamed up with BC Racing to offer a spring upgrade that is apparently much more comfortable. here is a link to a guy on a subaru forum who got it: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... ?t=2339757. I also went to the Curcuit Motorsports website, who I found out about the upgrade from, and if you scroll to the bottom, it states that the Swift Spring upgrade IS available for our cars. http://www.circuitmotorsports.net/bc_ra ... 26056.aspx Just some food for thought for those who want to try a solution.

Loop wrote:Bori, the front noise definitely should not happen. Does the clunk happen only during cold weather/starts? Does the clunking go away after driving a while? Did you torque the top strut bolt? Even if you did, I would use a quick jolt from a impact wrench. What is your front preload? I would try lowering the preload to 2-3 mm.

I am still looking into the rear rattle. Its not a big issue and won't affect the performance.

I changed my preload to a 2-3 mm and still the same noise.

Thanks for the advice.

Bori83 wrote:

Loop wrote:Bori, the front noise definitely should not happen. Does the clunk happen only during cold weather/starts? Does the clunking go away after driving a while? Did you torque the top strut bolt? Even if you did, I would use a quick jolt from a impact wrench. What is your front preload? I would try lowering the preload to 2-3 mm.

I am still looking into the rear rattle. Its not a big issue and won't affect the performance.

I changed my preload to a 2-3 mm and still the same noise.

Thanks for the advice.

Did the thrust washers fix the issue? I haven't installed mine yet, as I don't have the Firestone lifetime alignment deal. The Firestones around here won't honor the lifetime alignment on lowered cars.

funkee wrote: Did the thrust washers fix the issue? I haven't installed mine yet, as I don't have the Firestone lifetime alignment deal. The Firestones around here won't honor the lifetime alignment on lowered cars.

I just installed the bearings on my coil overs yesterday. The coils should be going back on my car this week.

First I finally managed to un-seize the mounting bracket. Took WD40, PB blaster, brute force, and a huge pipe wrench. I wrapped sand paper around the thread, but it still got damaged. I had to use a small triangular file to fix the threads. Looks like a**, but it works.

I also used ungodly amounts of anti-seize during assembly.

Crappy pics:







I'll update after install and test drive

UPDATE

Thrust bearings fixed the spring popping/pinging/binding.

Easy fix, just requires rebuilding each coil over.

I don't have a coupe, I have a 3.5 sedan.
My front springs came loose multiple times. Probably redid preload 5 times. Still didn't work. Also had a ticking noise every time I turned the wheel either direction. Took it to get looked at and they said it was the pillowball mount joint. They only been on the car about a year. Contacting BC to see what they will do
I put my stock suspension back on for now.

Not sure if anyone still reads this thread, but I had a bad koyo bearing. I had to pay for a new one but they'd give me two for the price of one. Well come few months later same issue. One of my new koyo bearings is busted. BC wants me to send them pics sit they can send to there R&D department. They said this is unheard of. Of course stock suspension back on again. What a PITA. Spend a few hundred already in alignments alone this year.

What is a koyo bearing?

It's the bearing in the top mount on the front coils. That's what BC calls it.

well, it looks like i will be returning my set... i won't be able to handle all the issues

rosuhere wrote:well, it looks like i will be returning my set... i won't be able to handle all the issues

I still got BC's after reading all these issues. I have custom springs front and rears (bought from BCracing), no issues whatsoever. My ride quality is not that great but that's because i'm a couple inches off the ground. And yes, I rebuild mine a couple of times.

i will be getting my set installed at the end of the month...

decided to keep them due to the fact that i didn't want to pay a restocking fee...

i got the spc rear camber arms + toe bolts [for the 350z] that will be going in as well...

i am taking it to a renowned suspension shop in my area and they said it will be $550 for everything: installation, adjustments, alignment, and corner balancing...

i am getting some new wheels as well, but the tires i want are on national back-order, so i am awaiting more to come in...

I just installed the bearings on my coil overs yesterday. The coils should be going back on my car this week.

First I finally managed to un-seize the mounting bracket. Took WD40, PB blaster, brute force, and a huge pipe wrench. I wrapped sand paper around the thread, but it still got damaged. I had to use a small triangular file to fix the threads. Looks like a**, but it works.

I also used ungodly amounts of anti-seize during assembly.

Crappy pics:







I'll update after install and test drive[/quote]




BALLER post, thanks!

Bori83 wrote: BALLER post, thanks!

Thanks!

Update:

Recently re-build the coil overs again.

I previously used the bearings to "sandwich" the spring. I now changed it to both bearings on top of the spring, acting as a double-bearing washer.

Seems to work great, I haven't had noise or binding since installing the bearings. The bottom bearing did get super grimy over the year, and I think this current set up (with the bearings on top) is better in terms of keeping it clean.

EVERYONE WITH BC COIL OVERS NEEDS THESE BEARINGS

alphapig wrote:

Bori83 wrote: BALLER post, thanks!

Thanks!

Update:

Recently re-build the coil overs again.

I previously used the bearings to "sandwich" the spring. I now changed it to both bearings on top of the spring, acting as a double-bearing washer.

Seems to work great, I haven't had noise or binding since installing the bearings. The bottom bearing did get super grimy over the year, and I think this current set up (with the bearings on top) is better in terms of keeping it clean.

EVERYONE WITH BC COIL OVERS NEEDS THESE BEARINGS

Hey bro, just to make sure I'm understanding. You "sandwiched" the two thrust bearings with the two washer rings, right?

Thanks

Has anyone else tried this yet?

UPDATE

About .5 year has passed since the rebuild with thrust bearings.

NO pings

NO binding

NO seizing

I highly recommend the bearings, as well as sh*t tons of anti seize.