CA18.5DET Build-Up

Post by **ragenasian** » Tue Jan 27, 2009 1:02 pm

float_6969 wrote:Gettting a 4 port head here in the US is next to impossible. You have to have someone in the UK or Europe to find you one and mail it to you. Also, finding intake manifold gaskets can be a bit of a fight as well.

You just have to know who to ask

Post by **sicj** » Tue Jan 27, 2009 6:16 pm

wow I didn't notice this got brought back from the dead...

I will be updating this soon and it will be going into an engine bay shortly after that.

custom mount Maxima AlternatorAN turbo linesIAC linesmodify fuel rail for external regulatorclutch/flywheel

some of the things to come

Post by **float_6969** » Tue Jan 27, 2009 7:39 pm

What's the ampacity of the Maxima alternator? Why not the Quest, IIRC it's rated to 200A.

Post by **sicj** » Tue Jan 27, 2009 7:45 pm

this maxima is 160a, didn't know about the quest or I woulda went with that

only things running off it will be 1 e-fan and an electric water pump and the normal lights, etc... no radio or HVAC system.

Post by **float_6969** » Tue Jan 27, 2009 7:51 pm

Oh yea, the Quest would be overkill then anyway. I just hear about it a lot with the audio crowd.

I'll be running a hydro-electric PS setup, and was going to go with the Quest route to handle the extra amps, but the Maxima should be more than enough.

Post by **sicj** » Tue Jan 27, 2009 8:01 pm

yeah I was looking into the hydro PS actually, but imma try the water pump first.

what hydro pump? MR2? Mazda 3 (or was it 5?)

the cool thing about the maxima (which I didn't plan or expect) is the pulley is smaller than the stock CA alt. SO it will put out more at idle. schweet.

Post by **float_6969** » Tue Jan 27, 2009 8:09 pm

I bought one from an MR2. How does the rest of the Maxima alty compare? Will the bottom fit in the stock bracket, or are you going to have to fab something up?

Post by **sicj** » Tue Jan 27, 2009 8:26 pm

yes the maxima bolts right in onto the oil pump/block.

I will have to make the upper bracket that connects to the water pump/top alt. hole for the tension adjustment.

it's VERY much a drop in alt. due to mounting/lining up to the crank pulley. Just make a custom top bracket and your done.

I will detail this when my fab metal gets delivered in a few days.

Post by **zero_gripS13** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 1:11 pm

quest is 110 unless it a newer one its 125..

what year maxima is it from and can u take pic please!!!

Post by **sicj** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 4:36 pm

zero_gripS13 wrote:quest is 110 unless it a newer one its 125..

what year maxima is it from and can u take pic please!!!

I don't know the part#...

but it's for these cars:INFINITI I30 1998-2001 V6 3.0LNISSAN MAXIMA 1996-2001 V6 3.0L

only pic I have of it...

I'll do a comparo later on.

Post by **zero_gripS13** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 5:34 pm

thanks alot man i can see by the pic its harder to install than the quest so ill stick with the quest thanks for the help

Post by **LEE_08** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 6:48 pm

why would you bother with head studs when you are only using stock main bolts on the bottom end? you know that u can use RB25 main stud kit on the bottom end of a ca

Post by **sicj** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 7:44 pm

I'm not shooting for 400HP so stock main bolts will be fine.

I chose ARP head studs cause I'm bolting and aluminum head to a iron block with a steel gasket between the two. That's three different metals...I wanted good clamping force. The mains are iron on iron, so I wasn't concerned too much about them.

Post by **DALAZ_68** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 8:07 pm

throttle body, u said KA...which?

Post by **sicj** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 8:22 pm

24E. with CA pulley... and I chopped half the CA pulley off where the cable would never touch.

Post by **zero_gripS13** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 5:44 am

LEE_08 wrote:why would you bother with head studs when you are only using stock main bolts on the bottom end? you know that u can use RB25 main stud kit on the bottom end of a ca

id be more interested in rod bolts than mains..i dont really think the mains need it but stronger rod bolts would be great. erics performance on ebay sells em but wont disclose the information on what part numbers they are.

Post by **r34 gtr** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 9:17 am

zero_gripS13 wrote:
id be more interested in rod bolts than mains..i dont really think the mains need it but stronger rod bolts would be great. erics performance on ebay sells em but wont disclose the information on what part numbers they are.

So should I buy a set of these ARP rod bolts and

1) see if they actually fit, and

2) hook you guys up with the part number?

Ive got $55 RIGHT HERE, and I will buy them if you guys want me to. I mean, I want to, so long as it seems like a good idea.

EDIT: They aren't listed in the ARP master catalog, do they actually make them?

Post by **magmonster** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 9:28 am

I bought a set of these a couple weeks ago for my DET build. THEY ARE ARP branded, but they came w/o any part numbers, and they are not the wav-loc style fastners. They are made from 8740 alloy, and they came with some photocopied install instructions and a small ARP lube pack.

r34 gtr wrote:
So should I buy a set of these ARP rod bolts and

1) see if they actually fit, and

2) hook you guys up with the part number?

Ive got $55 RIGHT HERE, and I will buy them if you guys want me to. I mean, I want to, so long as it seems like a good idea.

EDIT: They aren't listed in the ARP master catalog, do they actually make them?

Post by **zero_gripS13** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 9:47 am

magmonster wrote:I bought a set of these a couple weeks ago for my DET build. THEY ARE ARP branded, but they came w/o any part numbers, and they are not the wav-loc style fastners. They are made from 8740 alloy, and they came with some photocopied install instructions and a small ARP lube pack.

too bad there not wave loc fasteners, but the added strength is what im looking for.

erics had arp custom make em according to them and wont disclose the part numbers.

the factory rold bolt doesnt have washers does it?

i want a set for insurance against rev limiter hitting and high revs during drifting since that what my motor is being used for ...

Post by **magmonster** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 12:03 pm

You are correct, there are no washers on the OE Nissan fastners.But, the ARP rod bolts are way better than the stock units. Even if they aren't wav-loc, or the newer alloy. I'm pretty sure that these are a really cost effective upgrade, seing as how rods bearing/bolt stretch seem to be a common point of failure in the CA. I doubt that I could even get new Nissan rod fastners for the price I paid on my set.

zero_gripS13 wrote:
too bad there not wave loc fasteners, but the added strength is what im looking for.

erics had arp custom make em according to them and wont disclose the part numbers.

the factory rold bolt doesnt have washers does it?

i want a set for insurance against rev limiter hitting and high revs during drifting since that what my motor is being used for ...

Post by **r34 gtr** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 1:48 pm

I went to the dealership and got the part number for the CA18 rod bolts. They do not cross reference with any other Nissan rod bolts, so they would either have to be re-branded ARP bolts from another application, or specially-made.

Mag, you say you bought them and they fit well and everything?

Post by **sicj** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 3:33 pm

yeah I really wanted to swap to ARP rod bolts while I was building it too. I asked ARP and nada... But a good thing was my caps didn't stretch prior so I guess the stock bolts are pretty tough. Deffinitely would be nice to have ARP quality bolts in them though.

Mounted up the Maxima Alternator today:

Pulley Diameter:CA = 2 15/16"Maxima = 2 11/16"....more output @ Idle.

As you can see the mounting at the top of the alt. is VERY different so I made a custom adapter bracket to bolt to the alt. I also found a mystery piece from the motor that I had in a box that happened to work very well to adjust the alt. tension...

Block/Oil pump mounting = exact!

Final Mounting

how it works

Post by **themadscientist** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 4:07 pm

Good stuff right there, thanks for the how-to.

Post by **magmonster** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 4:15 pm

I have them at the machine shop right now, but I'll head down tomorrow or Saturday to check it all out. they looked the same when I got the package. the ARP hardware was black though.

I was waiting on pressing them into the rod, but I'll make sure they fit and post up the results asap.

r34 gtr wrote:I went to the dealership and got the part number for the CA18 rod bolts. They do not cross reference with any other Nissan rod bolts, so they would either have to be re-branded ARP bolts from another application, or specially-made.

Mag, you say you bought them and they fit well and everything?

Post by **zero_gripS13** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 4:41 pm

that looks simpler than what i was thinking and i could just go that route lol.. thats a throttle cable bracket right...

thats a genious idea.

Post by **sicj** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 5:15 pm

zero_gripS13 wrote: that looks simpler than what i was thinking and i could just go that route lol.. thats a throttle cable bracket right...

thats a genious idea.

haha your right! That is the throttle cable bracket. I couldn't figure out what the hell it was... Ah the car won't be running for months anyways, that's enough time to find another one!

Post by **zero_gripS13** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 5:20 pm

hows the belt alignment with that alternator? can u use all 4 ribs or is a 3 rib setup... i guess u follow one of the golden rules closely "keep it simple, stupid"

Post by **themadscientist** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 5:31 pm

sicj, this is you ain't it?

Post by **sicj** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 5:35 pm

you can use a 4 rib.

The back of the pulley is in line with the back of the crank pulley. So it's offset is exactly the same as the Ca alt.

one thing I cannot test however is if you can retain the use of the stock size belt

Post by **sicj** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 5:40 pm

themadscientist: haha! I'm more of a MacGyver jr. No one can top the original OG!

CA18.5DET Build-Up

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