ARP Head stud Torque Specs

For the RWD SR20DET cars! Sponsored by Wiring Specialties.
User avatar
912.0turbo
Posts: 756
Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2003 8:07 am

Post

I recently purchased some ARP Headtuds from ER and I installed them on my head. After I installed them after about 2 minutes I just heard a loud "SNAP" and one of the headstuds physically broke off inside my block. Both head and block are fresh from the machine shop. The one that snapped is the front driver side bolt.Looks like it can be tapped out. Looking at the instructions it says to "tighten the nuts in three equal steps to 105 ft lbs with ARP MOLY Assembly lubricant". Well I did what it said on the instructions and now I'm stuck. Dont really know what to do but I will be calling ER to see what needs to be done. I now think that it was some kind of typo in the intructions but we will see. P.S. I did the correct sequence of tightening per SR20DET service manual.


idahotuner
Posts: 10583
Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 7:11 am
Car: 2012 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins
93 Nissan Sileighty
93 Honda Civic hatch
2011 Polaris Ranger
Contact:

Post

you over torqued them .

80psi.

20-40-60-80

and when just putting the studs in you put them in hand tight. then the nuts are the part you torque.

working your way from the inside out.

now you will have the huge pain of pulling the head again. and eazy outing the stud.


User avatar
Hijacker
Posts: 14373
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
Location: Fredericksburg, VA

Post

I want to see a scan of your instructions, because every set of ARP studs I've dealt with say 75-80 lb/ft. That's using Moly lube as well. If you dry install them, you have to do math to figure out the higher torque rating (same with motor oil installs)

User avatar
912.0turbo
Posts: 756
Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2003 8:07 am

Post

Sorry it took so long, been busy. Here are the pics of the instructions

Thanks.

User avatar
912.0turbo
Posts: 756
Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2003 8:07 am

Post

Broken Stud

User avatar
redtop91
Posts: 16325
Joined: Thu Sep 07, 2006 9:05 am
Car: ↑ ↑ ↓ ↓ ← → ← → B A Start

Post

idahotuner wrote:you over torqued them .

80psi.

20-40-60-80
lb/ft, not PSI but yes.

User avatar
912.0turbo
Posts: 756
Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2003 8:07 am

Post

So do those instructions look wrong to anybody else?

idahotuner
Posts: 10583
Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 7:11 am
Car: 2012 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins
93 Nissan Sileighty
93 Honda Civic hatch
2011 Polaris Ranger
Contact:

Post

redtop91 wrote:lb/ft, not PSI but yes.
haha i knew that lol

BoBa524
Posts: 926
Joined: Tue Sep 21, 2004 6:53 pm
Car: 1995 Nissan 240SX SE

Post

912.0turbo wrote:So do those instructions look wrong to anybody else?
lol people were telling you that you were wrong on the torque until you posted the provided instructions and everyone shut up. lol good old nico. i don't have an answer for you but good luck pulling that bad boy out.

User avatar
redtop91
Posts: 16325
Joined: Thu Sep 07, 2006 9:05 am
Car: ↑ ↑ ↓ ↓ ← → ← → B A Start

Post

Because the instructions are saying exactly what everyone is telling him procedure wise. LMFAO. The 105 is wrong though.

User avatar
912.0turbo
Posts: 756
Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2003 8:07 am

Post

BoBa524 wrote:
lol people were telling you that you were wrong on the torque until you posted the provided instructions and everyone shut up. lol good old nico. i don't have an answer for you but good luck pulling that bad boy out.
I just got done trying to pull that thing out and still no luck. I can barely get the drill bit into the stud.

User avatar
912.0turbo
Posts: 756
Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2003 8:07 am

Post

redtop91 wrote:Because the instructions are saying exactly what everyone is telling him procedure wise. LMFAO. The 105 is wrong though.
Yeah I am pretty upset. I am in customer service so I dont lose my head that easily. The more I think about it the more upset I get. I spent a lot of money on my stuff and tried to get the best of everything and follow instructions correctly to prevent something like this from happening and it landed me here. I'm just a little aggravated right now. Hopefully ER and ARP can help me out but right now nothing is being done because of Memorial Day weekend.\ rant

idahotuner
Posts: 10583
Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 7:11 am
Car: 2012 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins
93 Nissan Sileighty
93 Honda Civic hatch
2011 Polaris Ranger
Contact:

Post

make sure you use a guide to drill it out. where did you get those studs from?

User avatar
912.0turbo
Posts: 756
Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2003 8:07 am

Post

Enjuku Racing

idahotuner
Posts: 10583
Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 7:11 am
Car: 2012 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins
93 Nissan Sileighty
93 Honda Civic hatch
2011 Polaris Ranger
Contact:

Post

my studs didnt come with instructions i had to read of the box or soemthing. or maybe they did but 105 is not correct at all.

User avatar
912.0turbo
Posts: 756
Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2003 8:07 am

Post

Thanks. Thats all I needed. Just to make I wasnt going crazy. Unfortunately I found out the hard way.

User avatar
Hijacker
Posts: 14373
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
Location: Fredericksburg, VA

Post

912.0turbo wrote:So do those instructions look wrong to anybody else?
If I could actually read them, I'd tell you. It really helps when all the words are in one picture. Or are just in any picture at all. There's parts that are cropped off I'd like to see to put it all in perspective.

User avatar
Rosco
Posts: 1207
Joined: Sun Mar 28, 2004 10:00 am
Car: 91' SR'ed Hatch

Post

My instructions say to "Torque the nuts to 70 ft. lbs. for ARP Moly Assembly Lubricant (or ARP THREAD SEALER) or torque to 85 ft. lbs. with 30wt. motor oil"

User avatar
912.0turbo
Posts: 756
Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2003 8:07 am

Post

This better?

User avatar
AZhitman
Administrator
Posts: 54538
Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2002 2:04 am
Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 Z32, 91 GTi-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14, 23 Z.
Location: Surprise, Arizona
Contact:

Post

I'd be contacting ARP on this one.

A quick Google search reveals:

http://www.aptfast.com/ARP_Add...s.htm

There's no 105 listed anywhere, and nothing NEAR 105 lb/ft with the ARP lube (which the instructions call for).

Looks like an ARP problem to me. We got your back.

User avatar
Hijacker
Posts: 14373
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
Location: Fredericksburg, VA

Post

There should be a date printed on the box for the time of manufacture. Make sure you have all that ready to go when you contact ARP. This is definitely an error on their part as the instructions say, clearly, to overtorque them with their lube.

Here's the number for their ordering/tech support department: (800)826-3045

Call them and just nicely explain what happened and offer to send them the picture of the instructions to prove that the ones you have are wrong. They should ask for the product number on the side of your box (it should be on a sticker) so they can track who/when made/packaged the fasteners.

User avatar
912.0turbo
Posts: 756
Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2003 8:07 am

Post

Thanks for replying Hitman!Interesting news though. I just got off the phone with AL at ARP and if the stud on the hex part says "ARP 2000" then these intructions supercede the old stud torque spec of 75-80ft/lbs. Now I'm a little scared that this might happen again. If the stud says "ARP ARP" then its 75-80ft/lbs. I dont know what to do now. Any suggestions on what I should torque this down to?

User avatar
AZhitman
Administrator
Posts: 54538
Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2002 2:04 am
Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 Z32, 91 GTi-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14, 23 Z.
Location: Surprise, Arizona
Contact:

Post

Again, I'd kick that question back to them.

Also, I'd be wary of mixing old and new - They sent the wrong info, so hold them accountable for making it right.

Are they doing anything about the broken stud?

User avatar
912.0turbo
Posts: 756
Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2003 8:07 am

Post

Yes they are per Ken at ER(they are awesome). They will be shipping me a new set of studs. But according to this guy Al a ARP the instructions are correct. I dont know if they are just telling me that to get out of it or what. I think I will torque these to the old 75-80ft/lbs.

User avatar
efrain240sx
Posts: 612
Joined: Fri Jun 17, 2005 12:14 pm
Car: 1992 nissan 240sx HB

Post

holy Sh*t 105 ft/lbs thats allot. I was scared torquing them down to 75 ft/lbs. As for drilling the stud out I would just take it to a machine shop and see what they say, I wouldn't do it my self.

User avatar
AZhitman
Administrator
Posts: 54538
Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2002 2:04 am
Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 Z32, 91 GTi-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14, 23 Z.
Location: Surprise, Arizona
Contact:

Post

Ask to speak with "Al's" supervisor.


User avatar
912.0turbo
Posts: 756
Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2003 8:07 am

Post

AZhitman wrote:Ask to speak with "Al's" supervisor.
I will try and take the time to call them tommorrow. I'm pretty busy at work usually and dont have a whole lot of time.

Clowny
Posts: 3
Joined: Sat Oct 21, 2006 6:43 pm
Car: 1991 240 Coupe

Post

my buddy and I recently put some arp head studs in his ka and the same thing happened in the same location. our instructions said to torque to 60 ft/lbs and the stud snapped at about 55. I also talked to Al and he is overnighting new studs. All he asked me was if we used moly lube, did we finger tighten the studs or tighten them with a torque wrench, and did we lube up everything ( studs, nut, washer). next thing i know he is tellin me he is gonna over night new ones. seems like a decent enough guy. but everyone else is right, if they sent the wrong directions, thats on them, not you.

shift_SRDETuser
Posts: 398
Joined: Fri May 23, 2008 7:14 pm
Car: 1996 Nissan 240SX SE

Post

you know there is differences in strengths of the studs among manufacturer dates. I would try tighten them down to from 20-40-60-80 in a criss cross pattern. You should be able to tell when you start torquing things down how well the limits of the metal will hold up.

Thrasher068
Posts: 41
Joined: Mon May 11, 2009 2:09 pm
Car: 91 240sx

Post

Year Old Post

When i did my SR i torqued mine to 105. There are the old ARP bolts and the NEW arp bolts the old were 80ft/lbs and the new are the 105ft/lbs So i hear anyway.


Return to “SR20DET Forum (rear-drive)”