400 whp Stock block Redtop - GT2871r .64 power!

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Jah1mon
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I think alot more people will be sticking with their stock manifolds because of you codyace.

I'm betting the price to extrude hone, and coat the manifold costs less than some of the higher quality stainless manifolds?

I also notice you're not too far from my area.


idahotuner
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shift_SRDETuser wrote:I just reread through this thread and would agree the sr20det is a great engine. Could you keep vtc above 400whp levels. I bought idaho's gt2871r and have been running around 340 whp for about 8 months now. So far the engine has done well. I heard 400whp was pushing the envelope of what the stock engine can hold so I just have never wanted to try and tune it there. What kinda knock counts do you get once you get the revs up?

I am running 17lbs and my tuner really told me that is where it should be at. I run waste gate at low boost or 8 lbs or so and it gets good mpg but when in boost I am lucky to see 18mpg.....
glad to hear the turbo is working good for you. i really think 17psi was the sweet spot on that turbo. with my set up it was about 370 at that spot. but i had cams and stuff thati think it might have flowed a little better

drb930
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Too bad no one makes a manifold like that for the KA's.Would you still pick the .64 over the .86 for a KA considering the difference in displacement?

Thanks,Dave

Salzano12389
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After reading through a few times I couldnt find my answers so heres a few questions..

I will be running this exact setup except with a z32 MAF is that okay? and will JWT Tune it?

Also was wondering on the thickness of the apexi headgasket you were running I was thinking 1.1mm

I was unsure of doing the extrude and hone but still might it seemed cheap not sure if i was looking at the right things on the page but it said like $200 or something like that? for that price ill go ahead and do it just wondering how much of a difference would i lose without it?

I will also be running a full 3"inch exhause straight pipe no cats or mufflers just straight pipe :) any input?

The only additional cooling i have is my 2 fans + a koyo rad is that enough? it will be a DD full boost all the time.. most likely maybe a 14 psi setting.. btw how much do you run 18psi?

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PyR0NiAk
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Car: S13 SR W/ T2 GT3071R .86AR, JWT S4 Cams, 810cc Injectors,Z32 MAF, JWT tuned ECU 87mm 9:1 Compression CP pistons, Manley Rods
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Salzano12389 wrote: I will be running this exact setup except with a z32 MAF is that okay? and will JWT Tune it?
Yes, and yes.
Salzano12389 wrote:Also was wondering on the thickness of the apexi headgasket you were running I was thinking 1.1mm
Depends on how much the machine shop takes off your head and block when they deck them.
I was unsure of doing the extrude and hone but still might it seemed cheap not sure if i was looking at the right things on the page but it said like $200 or something like that? for that price ill go ahead and do it just wondering how much of a difference would i lose without it?
I remember looking at the prices when I was in Iraq. I want to say it was more than that. Don't forget, he didn't just extrude hone the turbo housing. He also did the exhaust mani.
Salzano12389 wrote:I will also be running a full 3"inch exhause straight pipe no cats or mufflers just straight pipe :) any input?
Straight pipe will be loud, but won't cause any problems. The turbo will stand out a LOT in the exhaust note.
Salzano12389 wrote:The only additional cooling i have is my 2 fans + a koyo rad is that enough?
That cooling setup is fine. If you want to be extra safe, get a mishimoto or nismo thermostat.

Salzano12389
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Im not doing the HG myself so i was purchasing that and cams and sending it off so im unsure of what size to get and what compression would be and what it should be.

I was only going to do my exhaust mani not the turbo and think it was around 200 not sure though.

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PyR0NiAk
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Stock compression is 8.5:1 You can find this in the FAQ. Stock HG size is 1.01mm I'm using a 1.1mm Cosworth HG on my SR, but they also did very minimal shaving.

Salzano12389
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What did your compression turn out to be with a 1.1? i think im gonna go with a 1.2mm Apexi HG.

What about blow off valves i have a HKS super seq. from my last s13.. s14 now :) but when i used to rev out first gear then let it drop the car would stall i hear this is from non recirc bov's so i was gonna go with the greddy RS recirc valve..

Im trying to keep everything kind of alike as far as parts companies go.

Heres my setup

Greddy intake manifold, fuel rail and 660cc or 650 not sure what they were, top feed injectors
GT2871r
Exhaust mani extrude hone and swain greddy turbo elbow not sure what downpipe yet and full 3inch straight pipe
Z32 Maf + JWT Tune and JWT s3 cams with 1.2mm apexi HG

Salzano12389
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Also what do you think about a tial 41mm wastegate wasnt sure if i saw talk about whether the internal gate handles well on these turbos or not i read on a few sites they dont but not sure still.

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PyR0NiAk
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As long as you're not running ridiculous boost levels, the internal waste gate will do fine. Obviously, an external is a better option, but also more expensive. Your HKS SSQV is the most popular choice for the SRs... They also make a recirc fitting for it. It's like $20 on 240sxmotoring.com (They're a NICO sponsor.) Not sure what my compression is, but considering they removed a total of .004 inches, that's like .1mm... I went up .09 in headgasket size from the stock one, so theoretically my compression should be REALLY close to stock...

Salzano12389
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Only running like 12 DD 19 When its time to race :)
Another question if i didnt have an electronic boost controller and just an mbc via switch ( seen it in my friends car and worked great) would that be sufficient or is ebc much better to have in this case? I'll be running a greddy informeter as well not that that matters.

Yea i really like the sound the bov has but with the stalling issues if thats the case then i was gonna get rid of it but that recirc fitting looks like a good way to keep my bov. Dont feel like trying to sell more parts already have s13 coilovers that i dont need :\. But is that all you need is that fitting? i figured there would a hose of some sort?? or am i dumb for thinking that lol.

Zentraedi
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Just saw this thread, amazing stuff!

What trim GT2871r are you using 48, 52 or 56??.

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PyR0NiAk
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The fitting allows you to attach a hose...

Salzano12389
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lol ok yea i figured that, makes sense now lol..

anyway what do you think about a mbc not a good idea?

Salzano12389
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lol ok yea i figured that, makes sense now lol..

anyway what do you think about a mbc not a good idea?

freakyjason
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Thanks so much, Cody! This setup is working AMAZING for me! With my street tires, I burn through 1st 2nd and some of third at 16 psi. And with R compund tires at the glen, it was completely manageable and passed a lot of cars I probably shouldn't have been able to haha. I'll post up a dyno chart if I ever have the car dynoed. See you in dirty Jersey!

codyace
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freakyjason wrote:Thanks so much, Cody! This setup is working AMAZING for me! With my street tires, I burn through 1st 2nd and some of third at 16 psi. And with R compund tires at the glen, it was completely manageable and passed a lot of cars I probably shouldn't have been able to haha. I'll post up a dyno chart if I ever have the car dynoed. See you in dirty Jersey!
Hey J!

I wish I coulda made NJ, but my parents took vacation and I had to run the business :( That's the name of the game though, I don't mind helping them out as for sure they've let me slide on many track days in the past hehe.

Your car certainly seemed to run really well...and I know for a fact it had to have surprised a ton of people...it's the closest thing to a v8 car out there, but with more more managable torque curve!

Salzano12389 wrote:lol ok yea i figured that, makes sense now lol..

anyway what do you think about a mbc not a good idea?
I don't like a MBC for two reasons:

1. Lack of gain adjustment. With an EBC (and more so when in combination with internal gate) it allows you to add a ton of gain into the boost control...this helps fight creep and spike issues, as well is able to hold boost out till redline. An MBC may help you hit the target boost, but it certainly doesn't spool it as quickly, nor will it holkd.

2. Lack of true precision...an MBC is much more 'weather' reliant...where the EBC takes into account humidity/temperature etc etc and will always be constant. 90* in Summer or 45* in winter, my boost levels have never changed

idahotuner
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AVC_R is where it is at for electronic boost control

codyace
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AVCR is certainly a good unit...I'm personally a fan of the Greddy Profec Spec 1, and the Greddy Type S (same controller really). I still would love to play with a Eboost2 on these cars, but that won't be fore a while :D

idahotuner
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i read that the greddy units had trouble with spiking.

codyace
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idahotuner wrote:i read that the greddy units had trouble with spiking.
I've probably installed 15-30 of them (5-10 of which were of the Profec B Spec II variety) and never had any issue, across multiple setups.

THe Profec B Spec II are more difficult to setup as their interface is kinda funky...once you follow the guides it makes sense, but it's still no where as easy as the B Spec 1 and the Type S...Set the gain to prefered 'onset' and then twist the knob to your desired boost for low, repeat for high. Super easy and dead nuts reliable.

idahotuner
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yeah i thinki figured out what destroyed my last setup, having the duty cycle set to high to soon. i ran 16 psi alot and had it comming on as fast and as hard as possible. this new set up will deff calm things down, first and 2nd will have low boost setting with more smooth onset.

codyace
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Onset of boost/gain shoudln't make any difference in regard to longevity or 'niceness' on engine. However boost by gear is a nice feature to have,something the profec doesn't.

Undoubtedly less gain = less pull into power, but for a track car I 'want my cake and to eat it too'...I like having the off throttle ability to make the most boost instantlty hehe.

idahotuner
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well runing 16 psi in first gear all the time and and taking it to red-line an allful lot do wear on it. the boost by gear is something i will work with more this time around

codyace
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You gotta think though, that first gear really has the least amount of load on the car...ontop of that it also spins off fairly easily with anyhting north of 250 ft lbs, and is in that range for a split second as it is. In the grand scheme, first gear in any car really does the least amount of load or power oriented damage, this side of a drag race car...where it's not the gear that causes the problems, but th egear itself with an aggressive launch.

I'd love to work with boost by gear, but you'd really need to sit down and sort it out. If you figured that out, you'd have a TON of people looking to go your way. I know I'll admit, that first gear is often a short shift into 2nd for me...I wouldn't mind taking advantage of the RPM

idahotuner
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i know i would like to change the rear end gearing to taller gears so i can use 1st and second more.

yeah i think like maybe a higher gain but lower boost setting in 1st and 2nd could be good. like 7 psi in 1st but have it at almost 100% duty then taper down to 80% is what i found to hold boost the most solid. and then 2nd gear have it go to maybe 10 -14 psi but a little smoother onset, then 3rd have it deff dump hard at like 18-20 psi, forth depending ,on my set up cause i am getting a tune for race gas and 91, will be any where from 22-30 probably, with alot more gain in both gears.

i do think and after market ignition will be required though, once i break 500 rwhp

Jbolanos92Silvia
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Quick question how long did this setup last you? Any transmission or engine problems? I know it's been a while but hopefully you can answer my question.
I'm putting together my car this weekend and the tuner and I are thinking 380-400 hp
Doc race ram horn manifold
Tial mvr wastegate
Gt2871r with tial housing
Custom down pipe
Isr exhaust
750cc fiveO injectors
BC 264 cams with valve springs an retainers
Cosmetic head gasket
Arp head studs
AEM EMS series 2 standalone
AEM water methanol kit
M spec intercooler kit
HKS SQV 4 bov
255 fuel pump
Spec stage 3 clutch
Fidanza 11lb flywheel

Jbolanos92Silvia
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[quote="Jbolanos92Silvia"]Quick question how long did this setup last you? Any transmission or engine problems? I know it's been a while but hopefully you can answer my question.
I'm putting together my car this weekend and the tuner and I are thinking 380-400 hp
Doc race ram horn manifold
Tial mvr wastegate
Gt2871r with tial housing
Custom down pipe
Isr exhaust
750cc fiveO injectors
BC 264 cams with valve springs an retainers
Cosmetic head gasket
Arp head studs
AEM EMS series 2 standalone
AEM water methanol kit
M spec intercooler kit
HKS SQV 4 bov
255 fuel pump
Spec stage 3 clutch
Fidanza 11lb flywheel

Oh and I forgot maf delete it's gonna be running an AEM map sensor that's actually all I'm waiting on to get here


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