Post by
speedeast »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/speedeast-u139789.html
Thu Mar 25, 2010 7:24 pm
Well, it's been a long time coming, but here goes...
In December, I dropped the engine in so I could mock up and design engine mounts. Until the beginning of this week, I really haven't done anything. This week I did make time to get these done, and tonight I'm documenting it!
I'm going to start with my rear lower control arm ball joints. There is already a great write-up in the technical section of this site, so I'll be brief.
I removed the old ball joints with snap ring pliers, a mallet, and two different sized pieces of galvanized pipe.
...and installed the new ones.
Next up is my transmission mount crossmember. I maneuvered the engine where everything lined up just as I wanted in respect to front and back. I wanted the shifter as close to the hole as possible. I wanted the driveshaft to still fit perfect. I also wanted to clear the heater lines and still have the oil pan behind where the front sway bar crosses. After all that I measured up the difference from where the transmission crossmember used to be and where it needs to be.
With that in mind, I also noticed that the transmission couldn't push up against the floor enough to have the old crossmember height work, so I needed some head room.
With all this combined, I cut a 1.5" piece of 1/8" thick square steel tubing straight down the center somewhere around 6" long. I welded them onto the old crossmember and was able to gain 11/16" on each side after the blade width ~ maybe 21/32" after grinding the edges nice and smooth.
This is what I ended up with:
I don't have any pictures of it with the holes drilled or mounted up in place, but use your imagination.
With that bolted up restricting the motor set from moving forward or backward, it was time to move on to the engine mounts.
For my design, I wanted to be able to use 240sx KA engine mounts (not OEM). I ordered a set of Urethane mounts from a small business called Creative Steel. They are designed to replace OEM KA mounts, but are much more versatile. They are tubular in design and have bolts extending from each end that DO NOT touch within the urethane. They are stiffer than OEM, but still offer some vibration 'relief." Creative Steel also offers solid aluminum OEM replacement mounts that are also tubular in shape.
I took a piece of 1/4" mild steel and cut it down to the size I wanted then drilled holes for mounting to the VH block. After I mounted it on the block, I put one of the mounts in place and bolted a square chunk of the same steel to it. I started on the right-hand side of the car by the way. This is what I had at this point:
I then measured up the gap with my handy caliper and cut a piece out of 2"x2" L-shaped steel. I got very lucky, it fit perfect without any further modification other than grinding away imperfections in the cut.
I reached in with my MIG welder and spot-welded it all together. Then I pulled it all out and prepared to get my fab on.
I then welded another piece of L-shaped steel beside the first piece in between the steel plates. I welded it all together and started cutting and grinding until I got to my "prototype" phase.
I then installed the first mount, which required dropping the crossmember to negotiate it into place. It fit like a glove!
With that in place it was time to measure up for the second mount. Everything on the left-hand side measured up an exact mirror of the right side except for one sensor in the side of the block that would require me to make the right side mount about a half in shorter. It's no big deal. A half inch would give me plenty of room to play also.
I ran a string from one strut housing to the other and measured down. I also measured from the crank to to the frame rails on each side. From the string down I found my chi at 111.5mm and from the crank to the frame rails was already sitting pretty with 366.5mm on each side.
I made the left hand mount in the first mounts image (minus the 1/2" of course). No pictures of this, although it was about the same, only I made it outside of the car.
I installed the mount bracket on the left with only one thing left to do: drill a hole for the mount itself. There wasn't already a hole because I didn't build it in place like I did the first bracket. To accomplish this, I tried to get clever on how to mark where the hole needed to be drilled. I rigged up a bolt with a series of nuts on the bottom to make it just shorter than the mount itself but able to extend to the length of the mount. I know reading this might not help you create an image in your head because it's hard to explain. But fret not; I took pictures!!!
To mark the bracket, I put a dab of Tech 300 grease on the end of the bolt, check it out:
Then I twisted it up until it touched,
Then I pulled it out and drilled a hole. After I drilled the hole, I just kind of cleaned it up with a round file.
At this point everything went together great. With my design I had to drop the crossmember to get the mounts in and out, but here's my result:
^LOOK MA! NO CHAINS!!!
I'm exhausted and it's late, so I'm going to wrap this up with a few random part numbers for those of you who may need them.
Ball joints (from a Sentra):
Tie Rod Ends (outer):
OEM VH45DE Thermostat
OEM rubber radiator foot piece:
OEM Z32 Transmission striking rod dust boot
Thank you, and good night.
Modified by speedeast at 1:35 AM 3/26/2010