z31 turbo

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DizzyKitty
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I just got a z31 and need to replace the clutch and was wanting to convert it to turbo at the same time. I have searched the internet and have not found a definite list of parts required so i figured i would start one. I will list all that i have found that is required and would like NICO to edit accordingly. In return... pics of the conversion? :?
thanks!
parts needed
-ecu
-injectors
-exhaust manifold
-oil pan
-turbo
-fuel rail
-crossmember
Please tell me if i am missing anything. also when keeping the 9:1 compression, what type of hp can i expect with stock boost?
thanks!


nissanxrma
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Joined: Sat Apr 17, 2010 10:22 am
Car: 1986 300zx Turbo Modded
1989 300zx NonTurbo

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I have Turbo injectors on rails/FPR and The S intake pipe. And a T3 with a broken stud which shouldn't effect it at all i'll sell for cheap. PM me for details.

You should be expecting around 205 at the crank and mid 170's at the wheels. That's a rough estimate given the stock z31 turbo specs. having 9:1 helps over stock 7.8:1 or 8.3:1.

Don't be afraid by the low post count. I have 1000 post's at Z31Performance.com and 300 Posts at 88hybrid.com and z31.com.

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DizzyKitty
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Thanks, but i am more looking for information on what is needed for the conversion, or a complete swap lol. I am by no means an expert so a fool proof parts list would be super great for when i do go to the junk yard. I am asking for this because this seems like a relatively easy thing to do for a nice boost in performance.

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evildky
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Turbo Down pipe (the Z31 down pipe is a tricky sucker)
Oil supply line
and depensing ont he year of your car you might need the alternator subharness and bracket if you'rs isn't already ont he passanger side

nissanxrma
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Joined: Sat Apr 17, 2010 10:22 am
Car: 1986 300zx Turbo Modded
1989 300zx NonTurbo

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T3 Turbocharger and exhaust elbow from 84-87 300ZX Turbo
Drivers side exhaust manifold
Downpipe
Front crossmember (both the crossmember and engine mount bracket must be swapped for turbocharger fitment)
Drivers side engine mount bracket (bolts to block)
All intake piping (from Airflow meter to Throttle body)
Alternator mount, tensioner (and longer belt for application because the alternator mounts on pass. side instead of drivers side)
Oil pan
Turbo oil lines (and water lines if applicable)
Fuel injectors (260cc/min instead of 180cc/min)
Correct ECU (Interchange info here)
All applicable gaskets

FULL SWAP DIRECTIONS FOUND HERE! http://redz31.net/pages/turbo.html

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evildky
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fwiw turboing the n/a sin't as rewarding as some peopel think, it spools kinda wierd, and the higher compression yields very little power over the lower compression motor due ot the turbo regulating how much air is being fed to the engine, honestly the lower compression feels faster because fo the spool characteristic's but whatever motor you have handy will work just fine

nissanxrma
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1989 300zx NonTurbo

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9:1 is better than 7.8:1 Turboing is worth it, regardless of what he ^^ said.

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evildky
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I started with a turbo motor before swapping in the n/a so I've had it both ways, both are fine, and both will yield about the same amount of power due to the turbo regulating how much air is delivered, the high compression feels like an n/a off the line (unfortunatley the n/a isn't very fast off the line) and as a result the spool is much more linear you just don't get that same ramp up feel

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TheRealNap0le0n
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the only reason the 9:1 motor MIGHT be slower than the 8:1 motor is if the ECU is pulling timing due to knock.

otherwise the turbo isnt regulating any air or anything @ x psi assuming the N/A motor has the same cams and head as the turbo motor the high compression motor WILL make more power.

that being said it's safer to run high boost on low compression on pump gas and more often than not especially without tuning

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evildky
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TheRealNap0le0n wrote:the only reason the 9:1 motor MIGHT be slower than the 8:1 motor is if the ECU is pulling timing due to knock.

otherwise the turbo isnt regulating any air or anything @ x psi assuming the N/A motor has the same cams and head as the turbo motor the high compression motor WILL make more power.

that being said it's safer to run high boost on low compression on pump gas and more often than not especially without tuning
all things being equal higher compression will make a tiny bit more power, not a significant amount and not worth the drama

a turbo moving 53 lbs/min at 16 psi is moving the same volume of air and the same pressure no matter what the compression of the motor it's in, you can only extract a certain amount of power form a given volume of air

read up on some turbo theory and thermo dynamic's, I've run it both ways, megasquirted, interooled, no knock sensor, same ignition maps, same fuel maps

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Perrenial Badass
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TheRealNap0le0n wrote:the only reason the 9:1 motor MIGHT be slower than the 8:1 motor is if the ECU is pulling timing due to knock.
Not really possible. NAs don't have the knock sensor for one, so unless somebody wanted to wire it in there wouldn't be a knock sensor to pull timing anyway. Second, it's located on the passenger side of the block if it's there, so it may not be able to read the driver's side if there was detonation. And last, the turbo ECUs ignore the signal from the knock sensor at times. Above 3000rpm and anytime when in boost, if memory serves. So why Nissan bothered to even put one in is beyond me.

Anyway... I've seen a "stock" NA2T and a stock turbo go head to head, the NA2T wins.

Maxy
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what exactly makes this a stage 3 z31? :whistle:

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evildky
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"stage 3" generally refers to cat back exhaust, cold air intake (the Z31 starte otu cold air so it's just a cone air filter) and ECU which is kinda tricky with the Z31, i don't think most "chip" companies cater tot he Z31, but the romulaotr is way mroe bang for the buck, just a lot more complicated since you ahve to tune yourself (on at a professional dyno tunign shop)

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AZ-ZBum
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taking from the Z32 and Supra crowds...

Stage 1: intake
Stage 2: exhaust
Stage 3: Boost controller

And I think there's a stage for a Zymol polish and wax job... ;)


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