I could have explained this better. In fact I don't think I even told you a correct procedure so scratch what I said earlier.OH MY GOD!!
ive been seeking this info for quite some time but for a nissan rb25 carby build.... ive currently done a rb30 carb build and used a vacuum advance dizzy that comes stock for rb30's. (works great i might add and runs a nice 40 dfav carby :p)
so im still a bit gob smacked about this but what your saying is you had a efi car with an ecu and cas? and you slapped a carb on it and it still advances the timing??
if so this is great news for me pls confirm wether or not this will work on an rb20de/25de ecu and cas
Isn't it remarkable that these engines will run on either set of plugs? It is sort of a redundant system (with limitations). The secondary coils fire 10 degrees later than the primaries, and cut off at about 2500 rpms, so it will run like s***, but it will run.rogueroughneck wrote:Awesome Frankie, thanks for posting back! I am actually putting in a new computer into mine as we speak, I don't think that with only firing on the exhaust side and not firing on the intake side, a weber is going to do much right now. so I am working out all of the bugs as we speak. but I have this bookmarked for the future! thanks again!!!
That's awesome. I think I get what you did with the stock "mixture plate". Brilliant.greg510 wrote:I found this page after having problems with my throttle body on my 1988 King Cab.
It was going to be to much money to fix the throttle body,plus I could not
Find all the parts
I figured I would go the Weber route since I have had Webers on a few car including my 72 510 that I still have
I pretty much did what Frankie layed out. As far as the fuel line set up I did not touch the ECU,CPS,timing,etc either . Just more or less bolted the Weber 32/36 on !!! The stock linkage works as well.
I did not drill or tap the manifold,I put the carb on a bit different,I even used the stock mixture plate as my adapter plate.
I will post some pics ...(when I can figure out how to...HA:)
This is a link to the truck running.
http://s992.photobucket.com/albums/af42 ... verted.mp4
The truck idles nice and the throttle is responsive.I have not hooked the choke up yet.Will do that soon as it is starting to get colder out now.
I have re routed the fuel lines and the main linkage spring since this video
To tidy things up..Again will post pics when I figure how to!!!!!
Jet settings are
(Primary) 130 main,65 idle,175 air F50 emulation
(secondary) 150 main 50 idle,190 air F50 emulation
I'm sorry I must have missed this one. I try to reply to everyone.I've got a holley 5200 which is about the same as the weber, I am going to try & use it but I'm having an issue finding the right throttle linkage & I've been thinking of ways to fab up a linkage out of sum sort of small pulley, but I'm going to try & see what other idea's were available. It looks like a holley 5200 but numbers are sketchy when I try to find "specifics" on the carb. I've also been looking around for an adapter plate that bolts directly to the intake with out drilling, but I haven't found anything concrete yet. I seen this 1 site that had a list of adapter plates shown & seen 1 that looks like it may fit without drilling but I haven't gotten an e-mail back yet when I sent 1 to ask about it "its been a couple weeks" http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/invtoc ... =99004.336 but any advice would be helpful. Oh yeah 2 more things, would the engine light come on & how hard is it to get to if I had to remove it & when I slap on this carb...what emissions junk can I remove & it still run fine?
Frankie Pintado wrote:I can't find much info on this easy mod, so I'm posting what I've learned. Feel free to correct me on any details here. I wouldn't try this if I had to pass emissions.
So I bought an 86 d21 with 72,000 miles on it for $250. It did not run, but had perfect compression and a good spark. After lots of time trying to diagnose the fuel injection, I discovered:I had bad injectors - stuck open, very unusualI had burned capacitors in my eccm - the ones that control the injectorsAll these parts, assuming that nothing else was f'ed up, would cost in the ball park of $800 - $1000. Now enter the Redline Weber...
Redline Weber makes several replacement carb kits for the 720 pickup, and the carbureted version of the d21. They do not make a kit for the fuel injected version of the d21. However, all three trucks came with the z24 engine (we're talking about four cylinder here), but the injected z24 is known as the z24i. The differences (that we're concerned with) between the z24 and z24i are: The FI version uses the computer to control the timing on the spark. That thing that looks like a distributor is actually a crank position sensor. On the z24, there is an actual vacuum-advance distributor.The intake manifolds are different.
I've gathered that the easiest way to do this swap on a fuel injected truck is to take the intake manifold and the distributor from a carbureted engine and install them on your FI engine. Then change the fuel pump out for something meant to give the 2-3 psi you will need at the carb. The original fuel pump should be pumping close to 22psi, way too much. It willl just flood the carb till gas comes out of your air filter in about 6 seconds.
OK so sounds great, but there are issues with this plan. Mainly, availability. I had a hell of a time trying to find those parts. I just don't have time to scour junk yards between two jobs and being a full-time student in Automotive Technology. The fuel pump doesn't score high on difficulty, but there is a much easier, better way.
First I took the old TBI unit off, along with the heater (the honey-comb thing) that sits under it. I then test-fitted the new Weber 38 Outlaw that I picked up directly from the company for $338 after shipping. The two studs on the left (left being the drivers side) lined up almost. I widened the the holes in the base of the carb, just a little and it slid down onto the manifold. For some reason, the holes in the adapter plate did not need to be widened.I did end up using the supplied adapter plate because the holes in it line up with some pretty good places to drill and tap some holes.
I stuffed some plastic grocery bags down into the intake to catch any metal shavings. I made a guide for the drill using a block of 2x4 and a square. I made a nice dent with a punch and hammer to start the hole and drilled.
I tapped the holes to match the adapter kit. This is what I ended up with. Looks funny, but I swear it lines up perfectly.
I liberally applied permetex to both sides of the adapter gasket, and used blue threadlock on the bolts. I also ground the top of the bolts a little prior to installation to make sure that they would not stick up. This picture is letting the permetex dry.One of the more difficult parts of this job is tightening the nuts on the carb. Surprising. Btw use some blue threadlock.Throttle cable bracket took a little work with the dremel.
Now the fuel delivery system, here's the good news: you can use the existing pump and the return line. You will need a "T" fitting, made of metal preferably that is 6/16". Now hook up fuel inlet to the "t". You will need some restriction in the return line, so find about 1" of 1/4" fuel hose, lube it up real good with some synthetic oil or something, and shove it into the return line. Now hook up your return line to one of the fittings on the "t". That leaves one fitting to run through a fuel filter, adjustable fuel pressure regulator (available at any major parts store) and then into the carb. I also installed a permanent fuel pressure gauge because I was experimenting and this made things easy. That is of course optional, but for $25 it's pretty handy to know what your fuel pressure is.If you look closely at the return line, you can actually see the bulge where the piece of 1/4" hose is. It's just passed the "T".
Oh and you'll need to filter your PCV air (1/2-3/4" tube coming off the top of the valve cover. Other than that there are many ways to hook up emissions stuff, all detailed in the instructions that come with the carb. I myself plugged all vacuum lines and it runs perfectly. Better than it ever has.
Modified by Frankie Pintado at 12:32 AM 7/5/2009
I have no idea. I didn't even have to measure it to do what I did.Hello I am a new member with a z24i thats driving me crazy. Is the intake in your pictures the z24i. Also would you happen to know the measurements of the bolt pattern on that intake. I am working on a adapter plate
Adjustable, from autozone or any other harry homeowner parts store. I keep it set at 3psi. Pay close attention to the simple diagram I drew because you can't run the stock fuel pump directly into the fpr or you will break the fpr.What fuel pressure regulator did you use? What was the PSI on it?
after some research, I have an even better answer. I can actually prove that this device does not work.KA24ET_D21 wrote:that there carbination device must work good opposed to tbi. frankie: wouldn't you want to keep the mixture heater so you don't have to let it warm up as long? or does it just restrict flow.