Yet another Idle question

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
nnkfws333
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Here is the deal, of course you all know the swap got done but we are having major idle issues. I just hooked up the knock sensor but it doesn't seem to do anything.

If I start the car, the car just idle reals bad and dies or stalls off. Even if I press the gas pedal it is either a really bad delay or lags the engine and doesn't even rev. It almost feels like I can press the pedal and it does nothing or it delays before the engine revs.

We got 0 errors when we pulled the codes.

I've been searching but only thing I can think of is the Idle Air Valve...

Any help please fellow NICO brothers on your experiences or advice???
Modified by nnkfws333 at 9:06 PM 9/7/2005


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biosehnsucht
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have you got good spark on all cyl's?

when I first started mine it ran horrible, I had an intermittent coil..

check in the FSM there to see how to test them, or just use a spark tester..

also make sure all vac hoses etc are connected, otherwise it'll be impossible to idle. I once forgot to connect the hose to the coldpipe that the idle and cold start are connected to, I could force it to run but it would die if left to itself.. heheh big 1" "vacuum leak"

sounds like either no/bad spark in one or more cyls or massive leak..

NeedCAforS13
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vaccum hoses are new and done correctly. Nghi, go check all the IC piping to make sure we didn't miss a clamp or something like that. Also change out the spark plugs, and see if we can't locate a coilpack harness (junkyard or Ray). This might be related to those crappy plugs on the coilpack harness...

Sean

nnkfws333
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Alright changed the plugs, checked intercooler piping and hooked up the knock sensor but that wasn't the case. Any other clues??? Any other ideas? Anything else I can check easily??? Can I check for codes when the car dies?

I noticed that when I disconnect the MAFS it idles perfect but when I reconnected and started it the idle is jumpy again and dies like normal. Could this mean bad MAF sensor??? We pulled it from the KA24E one that was working before we took it out.

Modified by nnkfws333 at 9:58 PM 9/8/2005
Modified by nnkfws333 at 11:42 AM 9/9/2005

WeldingHank
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i had a similar issue, have you checked your timing?

nnkfws333
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We checked it when we first started up the car and it seemed fine.

nnkfws333
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All right well the car idles great now but my car ran crappy until 3000's rpm snf when boost kicked in car ran fine. So I hooked up the knock sensor. Then I put a cone filter on my intake and I turned on the car. The car idled great and never dropped once. So I was like all happy but then when I drive it, omg it is so sluggish like the car doesn't even want to drive or feels like its gonna die but idles fine.

I unplugged the MAFS when it was on and the car died. BTW no error code's and got code 55 which is smooth sailing.

Can someone please help? Im desperate for boost and Im so close!

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rico05
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Run the car for like 10 minutes, then try to drive it. I want that temp gauge in the middle mister! Tell me what happens...

nnkfws333
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I did have it at the warm temp. setting but I will try it again. Im gonna switch to non platinum spark plugs and also add some octane booster with 93octane gas. I still have 87 in there from my old motor. Think that might help RICO? I'll report back in a day or two. Thanks for replying!!!!

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biosehnsucht
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don't run anything less than 93!

you might want to drain the tank and refill..

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rico05
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No, that is silly. Just don't boost too much until you get some real gas in there. My first tank was 87 octane after I swapped the motor, but I had like 1/2 a tank full, so I went and filled with 93, and added 3 bottles of STP octane booster.

Well, I WAS thinking that you had the same issue as me in having a bad IACV or air regulator. You might want to try cleaning the MAF, or converting to a KA24E MAF (an easy install, and the KAE MAF is actually about 3-5mm larger than the CA one). A messed up MAF can cause all kinds of weirdness. The MAF is so sensitive, running the car w/o air filter will cause weird idle as air from the fan gets blown into the MAF, creating some really weird readings.

nnkfws333
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I cleaned the IACV and it made the idle a lot better and I am using a KA24E MAFS but we did ziptie the stock filter (box) onto it so it might of just gotten dirty. Im gonna clean it up, add some better spark plugs, and better gas and hope that works. ALSO TRY A NEW MAFS from a friend!

Thanks RIco and BIO
Modified by nnkfws333 at 12:59 PM 9/15/2005

NeedCAforS13
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it is a KA-E maf already.

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float_6969
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Better late than never Sean.... JK man. I gotta give you trouble...

NeedCAforS13
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GAH we posted at the same time sucka!!

sdtouge
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timing belt is a tooth or a couple teeth off.

did you try to replace it or did you repalce your h20 pump and had to remove it to get to it?

this is my bet.

nnkfws333
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We replaced the timing belt sdtouge but the car ran fine just had an idle problem and then a knock sensor problem. When I drove with the knock sensor off, it would run crappy till 3k and drive fine...so Im not sure if this would be a problem.

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float_6969
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Maybe the tensioner was weak and it jumped a tooth. Mine did that before the rebuild...

sdtouge
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i would guess that, beucase when your flooring it and not reving stuff liek that is EXACTLY what was happening when my timing belt was off

ca18detdrift
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Hmmm i dont have my knock sensor hooked up either and it runs sluggish until i hit 3k + rpms. Maybe this would be my problem as well. Also, when i give my car gas when i first start the car it almost dies until it warms up, then it runs good.

I just recently did my swap as well, and my idle was great (when there is a vacuum LOL) then i plugged the vacuum line and it idles very rough! It turned out to be my coil pack, that was bad (i though i was an injector, good thing it wasnt). There is also a idle control screw on the intake manifold, maybe you can mess with that, i also heard there is an idle control screw on the ecu itself.
nnkfws333 wrote:We replaced the timing belt sdtouge but the car ran fine just had an idle problem and then a knock sensor problem. When I drove with the knock sensor off, it would run crappy till 3k and drive fine...so Im not sure if this would be a problem.

nnkfws333
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sdtouge wrote:i would guess that, beucase when your flooring it and not reving stuff liek that is EXACTLY what was happening when my timing belt was off
hum...Im gonna take a pic tomorrow and post it on here of the timing belt. Actually if you check timing with a tooth off, would it give wrong info. or any indication???
Modified by nnkfws333 at 10:12 PM 9/15/2005

NeedCAforS13
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the timing belt is correct. 100% positive. Counted the cogs and matched the crank and cam marks to the belt marks. and tensioner is set properly too.

Sean

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rico05
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You have a boost gauge? How much vac you pullin at idle? That would tell if you had a leak behind the throttle body. How was his compression Sean?

nnkfws333
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Hey Rico, the vacuum is at 20 and I boosted up to 7 when we were driving it. We never checked the compression but Im sure if the compression was bad my car wouldn't of ever made it home ok =)

nnkfws333
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Already came back from working on car, adjusted correct timing and cleaned mafs but now I throw an error code 21.Error Code 21: Ignition signal missing in primary coil

Does this mean a bad coil pack or ignitor? The car idles perfect just doesnt really run well until above 3k and in boost.

I know its a lot of questions but I think after this I believe it can help a lot of people in the forums.
Modified by nnkfws333 at 4:26 PM 9/18/2005

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rico05
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Prob your igniter is fried. IIRC, that is what that code means. Don't quote me on that.

Other things to check: Throttle position sensor, CAS, and manifold gaskets.

NeedCAforS13
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HA! maybe we wired the ignitor in wrong... somd dumba$s in japan cut the ignitor plug wires off! Rest of the harness was whole and complete, missing ignitor and CAS plugs, so I had to wire those in myself... odd stuff. Maybe it wasn't shielded correctly?

Sean

nnkfws333
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THE CAR RUNS! After buying new coilpacks/ignitor which didn't work I switched out CAS and that didn't work I just said screw it.

I took the car to the gym (ran like crapola), publix(crappy again), and back home (more crapp) and right when i enter my neighborhood I notice my car not studder. So I go let me go floor it out on a main road and guess what, the car runs perfect!!!

I don't know what happened but I can only think of 2 things. Either my 93 gas finally kicked in after $#it gas 87 was in there or something must of been stuck to not let the motor run normal after sitting there for years and years.

Now IM happy wooohooo will post pics up later.

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biosehnsucht
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er, yeah.. 87 octane be the devil, yo

when I did my swap we pumped all the 87 octane fuel out and replaed it with 93!

zero_gripS13
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sounds like what happend with my car after i installed my new injector (ka24de).. ran liek **** and would stall every stop i made... drove it home and didnt really do anyhting and just drove it around the block twice and now its runs fine..

also never run platnum plugs in a turboed motor... its bad.. get some new ones


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