Y34 Oil Separator installed

Forum for Infiniti M35 and M45, and Nissan Fuga owners.
Double E
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Last edited by Double E on Wed Aug 21, 2013 7:47 am, edited 1 time in total.


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lei
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cool write up.. where did you get the oil seperator?

Double E
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Jegs. Bout $40 Steep in my book but if that's what they want....

part 555-52205

It comes with a mounting bracket & screws that appear to self-tap when used, but I did not have need for it.
Modified by Double E at 7:50 PM 11/22/2009

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fiveliterbeater
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wait...so the Y34's dont have drive by wire? i thought they did. that's so cool (and disappointing at the same time)

i wish they wudve carried that over to the Y50's.

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ken in az
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fiveliterbeater wrote:wait...so the Y34's dont have drive by wire? i thought they did. that's so cool (and disappointing at the same time)

i wish they wudve carried that over to the Y50's.
No, they do...for some strange reason they have both - it's a weird setup they have

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UpStar
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very nice! I look foward to hearing and seeing the results after a week or two or normal driving. Keep us posted

Double E
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Will keep posted, yes.

It is an unusual setup. When the tb is removed, if you "actuate" the throttle control where the cables attach, the butterfly valve opens up maybe a 1/4 inch. I was advised against manually opening up the butterfly valve through this forum as I understand it results in needing a throttle positioning re-learn procedure that's quite a process, so I just cleaned around it....and it didn't need much.

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DELUNASC
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Was the TB only removed for cleaning? Or did it have to be removed for the catch can install. What is the coolant bypass for?

Thanks..

Double E
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Removal was needed for room to work and to see what the results have been of the oil entering the intake thus far. I cleaned it while I was there, but really, it was not necessary to clean. I just wiped it down and cleaned the butterfly valve with some brake parts cleaner and a towel. I did not disassemble it further based on how clean it was. 4 allen head bolts, 2 connectors. There are metal gaskets that get reused and are made well.

The only thing I would say is less than ideal about my install location is the convenience of emptying the bowl. I think I'll need to remove the throttle cable bracket to access it each time, but again, 2 10mm bolts ...and presto.

For the coolant mod: The spacer has a hollow core with coolant running through it in order to heat up the incoming air until the engine is warm. Once the engine has warmed up enough, there may be a check valve that stops coolant from flowing through the spacer, but as I could not find one, I removed the plumbing to it.

I disconnected these lines as I do not live in an environment where heating the incoming air is necessary or desired. (cooler air = more dense = more oxygen = more efficiency)

I suppose I could remove the spacer alltogether, but I think there may be performance benefits to the additional space it adds (?) and it would probably impact the placement of the separator if I did.

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DELUNASC
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Thanks for the additional info. Keep us updated on the amount of oil collected.

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ken in az
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Double E wrote:Removal was needed for room to work and to see what the results have been of the oil entering the intake thus far. I cleaned it while I was there, but really, it was not necessary to clean. I just wiped it down and cleaned the butterfly valve with some brake parts cleaner and a towel. I did not disassemble it further based on how clean it was. 4 allen head bolts, 2 connectors. There are metal gaskets that get reused and are made well.

The only thing I would say is less than ideal about my install location is the convenience of emptying the bowl. I think I'll need to remove the throttle cable bracket to access it each time, but again, 2 10mm bolts ...and presto.

For the coolant mod: The spacer has a hollow core with coolant running through it in order to heat up the incoming air until the engine is warm. Once the engine has warmed up enough, there may be a check valve that stops coolant from flowing through the spacer, but as I could not find one, I removed the plumbing to it.

I disconnected these lines as I do not live in an environment where heating the incoming air is necessary or desired. (cooler air = more dense = more oxygen = more efficiency)

I suppose I could remove the spacer alltogether, but I think there may be performance benefits to the additional space it adds (?) and it would probably impact the placement of the separator if I did.
You don't want to remove the spacer - it has no effect on performance but it would throw off your throttle linkage which would require fabricating a new bracket.

New2Import
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Nice install but why did you cut off the drain!. Thats where you drain the oil out. You turn it then the oil drains out. You will have to drain this separator at least every 500 miles. I dont know if you can unscrew the can from the billet top piece but if you cant you will have problems when you drain it. Just a thought.

Double E
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Thanks!

I thought it was a drain too when I first got it, but it does not unscrew. Maybe I should have put it in the vice and cranked on it ...but it had to come off anyway to make a level entry to the intake. I think I remember that packaging indicated that it was the high pressure relief valve.

The part description on Jegs indicates that it is the drain however so who knows...

The bowl does unscrew from the aluminum housing to empty the bowl and clean the filter ....that's not currently in mine.
Modified by Double E at 5:18 PM 11/23/2009

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iwantyourcar
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mine does not unscrew at the bottom either, just the top. Thanks for the awesome write up. I plan to do this soon as I just got the part in. I also agree that the price seems a little steep, but others have had success with it so i thought it was worth it.

I am curious about the location as well, is there a more " convenient" spot to install this (like a cut the hose, insert separator to each end of cut hose), and be done with it? There probably is, I may be getting ahead of myself, as I have just gotten the car and have yet to take off the engine plastic.

I like the M a lot, it is my wife's car, however I wish it were mine, I am slowly growing out of the S2000.

Double E
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I debated for a little while to connect it somewhere else. I didn't find another spot that would be directly fed by both cylinder banks and would not require some serious tubing & plumbing and still be relatively easy to access.

Anywhere else and I would have needed 90 degree elbows also to get tuving to not also be restricted. As it was, the section of the hose removed for the cooling mod gave me the nearly 90 degree elbow that I needed.

Take your time & plan out the best place for you. Now you're challenged to find a better spot however!

New2Import
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No it unscrews from the bottom. It is very very tight.

Double E
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Good to know. It still had to go though.

Double E
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Update on Mod – Air/Oil separator

It always has worked marginally but ...now that I’ve had it for a couple of years.

What I mean is that it will separate but the bowl fills up to a point, then oil will creep up the side of the bowl and still gets to the intake. I can empty it more often but it is full again in a week or less.

What I would rather do is eliminate the oil getting to the separator in the first place.

I noticed that the oil fill tube will let me force air down into it with the air coming out of the PCV tube coming from the passenger side valve cover.

I also noticed that the oil fill tube is a composite plastic. If I tap 2 holes in it, one above the other…and put in a hose fitting I would have the ability to plumb the PCV hoses to the lower fitting I tapped.

The upper hole would route to the PCV tubing to the intake.

This way, any oil that came from the PVC at the valve cover would first be re-deposited into the oil fill neck and the excess pressure would go to the intake. The only thing I would need add is an additional PCV (or check valve) to the tube going to the intake.

I would have a maintenance-free oil separator and no oil in the intake manifold from the PCV.

Double E
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UPDATE:

As some of you know, I’m on my second Y34. On the first one, a few years back I had added a catch can to keep oil from entering the intake from the PCV system. It was somewhat successful. There's a link at the top of this thread to the write up I did back then.

The 2nd Y34 is in need of a solution as it is burning oil from the same bad PCV design.
I want to do something different this time.

I bought a new PCV valve from AutoZone. I plan to remove the original, drill out the insides and replace it.
After the drilled out PCV valve is replaced, it will be followed by a container, followed by a properly working PCV, then to the intake. (Short tubing pieces to connect it all.)

I can find a cylinder, maybe 50 cent piece in diameter, loosely fill it with steel wool and let the oil laden vapor go through that first & separate the oil out before it goes to the working PVC valve, then the intake. I’m thinking clear would be best…

Oil is allowed to drain back into the valve cover through the drilled out PCV when crankcase pressure is low …instead of into a catch can that always needs to be emptied or fills and becomes useless.

My alternative is a container with drain plumbed through the dipstick tube but I’m not sure how I’ll plumb that.

Question:
What clear tube container do you think I can use for this?


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