I've not changed plugs on my car before (or any V8 for that matter). Any gotchas or pro tips anyone can offer? I'm hoping to learn from other's mistakes. Ordered NGK Iridium IFR5E11.

Thank you as always
Sapo

Sapofeo wrote: ↑

Thu Jul 15, 2021 3:58 pm

I've not changed plugs on my car before (or any V8 for that matter). Any gotchas or pro tips anyone can offer? I'm hoping to learn from other's mistakes. Ordered NGK Iridium IFR5E11.

Thank you as always
Sapo

Hi Sapo,

I think the first thing you’re going to hear following my post is to order to correct spark plugs according to FSM, IE PFR5G-11’s.

I can speak on these and say they made a massive difference compared to what the previous owner had on my FGY33. If your specific model year calls for the IFR5E11s, forgive me! I’ve never seen those mentioned though across the model years in these forums. My MY was/is a 1998.

When I changed my spark plugs I went ahead and did a compression test as well as I wasn’t sure the condition of the engine. If you have any doubts I would say take the time to do one since you’re pulling them all out anyways and likely have to remove a couple accessories bolted to the VC to access. If for nothing else piece of mind!

Make sure to take a few photos of which coil plugs go in which order. I managed to mix mine up and caused a no start due to wrong firing order. Switched them to the correct position and PRESTO. It did cause a mild 30 minutes of stress to have them wrong in the first place though. If you have a table to place parts on I would pull out the coils and place them exactly as they were in the engine bay on the table so you can put them back in the same exact spot.

Lastly I would inspect the plug holes for oil as this typically happens when VCG is leaking due to the angle of the VC. If your VC are leaking or haven’t been done before it may be worth replacing so you only have to pull coils and plugs out once.

Don’t forget to have fun and take breaks for your beverage of choice!

Fantastic, thank you. I appreciate you taking the time. I looked up the plugs on NGK's site. That's how I came to order the IFR5E11. Iridium supposedly lasts longer which is why I chose it.

Sapofeo wrote: ↑

Sun Jul 18, 2021 12:57 pm

Fantastic, thank you. I appreciate you taking the time. I looked up the plugs on NGK's site. That's how I came to order the IFR5E11. Iridium supposedly lasts longer which is why I chose it.

+1 for the NGK PFR5G11s. Tried and true.
Be careful on the IFR plugs. Remember the factory specified PFR are DOUBLE platinum. Iridium may last longer, but if only the center electrode tip is Iridium, then I do not believe you have bought yourself any advantage over the 2x plats.

full disclosure: I have run the IFR5E11s in the 94 before I did adequate research on the pros/cons. I can't say that they gave me any problems, but I'm more than happy running the PFRs, both on stock coils, and with my VAG 'smart' coils.

Few other 'tips' I would add: make sure you are actually torquing your plugs to the specified value. There is a one-time crush compression gasket on these plugs, and if you stop before it crushes, you may develop a loose plug over time. But overtorquing is also the enemy here.
Steel threads into an aluminum head. galling of threads can be an issue. Consider vacuuming out the holes or using compressed air to reduce chances of grinding crud into the head threads.
I personally use a VERY small amount of anti-seize on the new plug threads. Idea is not to lubricate the threads to the point of where overtorquing is the unintended outcome.
use a piece of generic underhood vacuum hose and insert only over the electrode terminal (not on porcelain cap) to help start the new plugs in the holes. put a little dielectric grease only on the porcelain to help 'seal' the CoP boot to the plug and prevent spark blowout----very very common on the FGY33, particularly after the 2nd or 3rd spark plug change.
use an 'open' deep 5/8 socket to tighten plug after you finger tighten with the vacuum hose. If you use a spark plug socket for reinstall, you'll 1) have trouble removing it, and 2) wipe off that dielectric grease.

I really appreciate all the information. I'll go ahead and stick with the tried and true plugs and order the PFR5G-11's.

Alrighty, I'm down the plugs but they're not budging. Sprayed some penetrating oil in there and I'm going to let it sit for a few hours. I got the right plugs too.

You are having trouble removing old plugs?
They sometimes stick a little can be occasionally difficult with standard length 3/8" ratchet unless you 'crack' them to initially break loose. Forgive the question, but to be sure you are twisting counterclockwise?

I am indeed turning counter clockwise, but I take no offense to the question. I whisper "lefty loosie" to myself to this day. I suspect these are the original plugs the car came with. 2000 model year means a 1999 purchase and 150k miles (previous owner did all work at the dealer so Carfax shows the maintenance history). I'm taking this SUPER slow. Spray oil, what an hour, spray again. I did manage to crack about half of them on this last attempt. Last thing I need is headwork on my budget cruiser. So far I've followed all instructions faithfully.

OK, you're getting somewhere!
Take your time, remember that no one else would do the job with the same care and attention to detail---and have fun!

Just so you know I'm doing what I'm told.


And man did these look old.


The work is done. Rubber hose was GENIUS. Car is running so smooth. Hopefully the misses won't return. Thanks a ton.

Sapo

Great! Just think you saved $$, AND your ride is running better!

Analytically, I can't help but look at your old plugs. the wear indications are not even. note especially the ones on the far right of photo the center electrode is quite worn down!