Y33 Idler Pulley Options?

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my12by60
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I am lifting this question out of another thread that I started to see if it gets any more eyeballs. Here is the original thread.

sound-of-bad-bearing-at-start-up-t608329.html

Shop says I need a new alternator idler pulley and power steering idler pulley. Shop can order the new pulleys from a local dealership for about $100 per pulley. Has anybody had any luck locating the correct bearings so that the old pulleys can be reused with the new bearings? Has anybody had any luck with finding a non-oem replacement pulley? In other threads here in the forum, I see where the Gen 1 owners have been able to use the 6301 bearings and/or Dayco pulleys to save quite a few $ vs. the OEM pulleys. Any solutions out there for the Y33 or do I just have to pay the freight for the OEM pulleys?


my12by60
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I called a few auto parts stores and websites today and it looks like no company makes an aftermarket idler pulley for the Y33 years. My last hope is to be able to read the bearing number from either of the failing pulleys to see if I can replace just the bearings. That will have to wait until Monday as the shop has the pulleys and the shop is closed.

EdBwoy
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my12by60, this is something from the y34 side. The last post is by me and has some part #s.
I know Nissan shared a lot of parts between not only generations, but different models as well. Let us know how this goes once you read the bearing numbers off yours.

I hope this helps you more than confuses you.
how-to-fix-squeaking-tensioner-pulley-t589191.html

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goody90q45
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if you can post the pulley diameter, pulley width and bearing center hole diameter (all in mm) I'll measure the pulleys I have for sale. We may find that the G50 pulleys/bearings are the same as the next gen Q.

for-sale-q45-g50-filters-idler-pulleys- ... 07312.html

my12by60
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Ed --

The thread you posted does not confuse me. I am looking to do the same thing. That is, find the correct bearing, knock out the old bearings, and knock in the new bearings. I understand that pressing is preferable. How much did you pay to have the bearings pressed? What sort of shop does that work? I am correct in assuming that the pressing only takes a few minutes with the proper press tool?

Interesting that your idler pulleys required the 6301 bearings. That is the same bearing number that the idler pulleys on the G50 uses, which gives me hope that my Y33 idlers will also take the 6301 bearings. The 6301s are cheap and available from Amazon with prime shipping:

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss? ... 1+bearings

Goody --

Since my pulleys are fine (except worn bearings), I am focused on finding the correct replacement bearings as I don't need the whole pulley. But thanks for the offer. If I can't find the bearings, then I might double back to your pulleys, which are still a good bit cheaper than the OEM from the dealership.

EdBwoy
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my12by60 wrote:Ed --

The thread you posted does not confuse me. I am looking to do the same thing. That is, find the correct bearing, knock out the old bearings, and knock in the new bearings. I understand that pressing is preferable. How much did you pay to have the bearings pressed? What sort of shop does that work? I am correct in assuming that the pressing only takes a few minutes with the proper press tool?

Interesting that your idler pulleys required the 6301 bearings. That is the same bearing number that the idler pulleys on the G50 uses, which gives me hope that my Y33 idlers will also take the 6301 bearings. The 6301s are cheap and available from Amazon with prime shipping:

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss? ... 1+bearings

...
Great to hear of the compatibility and relative cheap cost. I can't recall why I had such a hard time locating the proper 6301 bearings. Maybe it had something to do with the load rating.

I took my bearings to a machine shop after pounding one out of a pulley and quickly losing interest. They charged me no more than 20 bucks to press all the 4 bearings into 3 pulleys. IIRC, for such small bearings, their rate was 5 bucks to press in, but free to press out if it was done at the same time.
This shop typically presses bushings, rebuilds engines (assembly stuff) - but some will also have drills, mills, lathes, welders etc...
A good press such as an arbor press will definitely do the job at home. Most of the time was spent locating the right adapter for the bearing and aligning it. He sprayed some lubricant on the bearing and seconds later had it seated.

my12by60
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Thanks for the info on pressing. You say 4 bearings into 3 pulleys. Does one of the pulleys take two bearings? Are the bearings just stacked back to back?

I have not yet confirmed what bearing is the correct bearing for the Y33 pulleys. I am hoping the 6301 bearing is the correct bearing but have to wait for confirmation from the shop which has my car and the pulleys removed for replacement.

EdBwoy
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Yep! The vk45de as used in both m45 generations had 2 belts and 3 pulleys - 2 spring loaded tensioners and 1 stationary idler. The fixed pulley is the one that takes 2 stacked bearings.

Pardon the lack of clarity in this picture, I originally posted it for a different purpose.
Image

my12by60
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Picked up my Q this evening and the noise is gone. Shop changed the bearings in the alternator idler pulley and power steering idler pulley. The power steering pulley takes two bearings. So three bearings total for this job. The bearing the shop used was Timken TM301KDD. The dimensions of this bearing (12 x 37 x 12) are identical to the 6301 bearings I linked above on Amazon. So my takeaway is that the idler pulley bearings on all three generations of Qs are the same.

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Q451990
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Good to know! I pressed bearings in and out for my truck using a large vice... the bearing guy I bought them from on eBay suggested that next time I try heating the pulley and freezing the pulley, after I mentioned that I noticed a little bit of wobble after putting it all back together.

my12by60
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I wish I would have known myself prior to taking the Q into a shop. I would have done the job myself and saved some $. I could have changed the bearings in all of the idler pulleys myself for $25 or $30 total to eliminate the pulleys as the source of the bad noise when starting up the car. Of course, correctly diagnosing the problem the first time is part of where a shop makes its money. So I guess I won't complain.

Ludeaem
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Just wanted to bump this as a thanks since I have a squeak from my alternator idler. My AC idler is new but might as well do power steering as well.

SKF part # 6301-2RS

Side note - I am about to order so I cannot say for sure this works but i'm confident.


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