will pay $100 for a solution
will pay $100 for a solution
i have a 1986 300z that ran great for 200 miles then would only work at quarter throttle and die, replaced throttle position sensor, dropped fuel tank and cleaned it, replaced fuel filter and still cuts out at quarter throttle please help will pay for a solution!
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DCaff300ZX
- Posts: 4202
- Joined: Sun Jun 14, 2009 8:18 am
- Car: .
1993 CRP TT- Modified - Location: Tacoma, Washington
Re: will pay $100 for a solution
Welcome to Nico!
Unfortunately the Z31 is very different from the Z32 so not much help may be found here...have you tried the classic/Z31 site?
There's a couple of very sharp guys there who may well be able to help you out, and we don't charge for it...
I had an '85 to re-begin my Z journey, and as much as I liked that car I could not work on it as anything I did always messed it up, and only my mechanic at the time could make it run right again...bottom line is they can be finicky, as I can work on my Z32 effectively for the most part and which also is a finicky beast.
Sorry I can't help more, but do try the classic site!
Unfortunately the Z31 is very different from the Z32 so not much help may be found here...have you tried the classic/Z31 site?
There's a couple of very sharp guys there who may well be able to help you out, and we don't charge for it...
I had an '85 to re-begin my Z journey, and as much as I liked that car I could not work on it as anything I did always messed it up, and only my mechanic at the time could make it run right again...bottom line is they can be finicky, as I can work on my Z32 effectively for the most part and which also is a finicky beast.
Sorry I can't help more, but do try the classic site!
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AZhitman
- Administrator
- Posts: 54538
- Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2002 2:04 am
- Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 Z32, 91 GTi-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14, 23 Z.
- Location: Surprise, Arizona
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Re: will pay $100 for a solution
I think we can help here.
If I remember correctly, these had some issues with the fuel pressure relay. Look for a green relay on the passenger side, behind the battery (you'll have to pull the battery). Make sure the wires are connected properly on the relay. Are they corroded or broken? If so, fix 'em. You can also test the relay (or replace it, they're cheap).
Less common: Fuel pump relay behind the passenger seat can fail. It's blue, and has been the culprit on more than a few of these.
Another possibility: Let's check fuel pressure (you can rent a gauge and T it into the fuel supply line (even put it in place of the filter, if you want). Should be 30 lbs at idle.
Now, vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator comes from the intake manifold and should be approx 15" at engine idle. BUT, on acceleration, the vacuum port is bypassed - so, no vacuum to the regulator (which increases fuel pressure and volume).
Unplug the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator while the car is idling. Fuel pressure SHOULD jump to 37 psi. If not, you have a regulator issue, OR a bad vacuum line.
Has the car ever overheated? Are you capable of running a compression test? If so, an odd compression test result could indicate timing belt may have jumped (causing those symptoms).
If I remember correctly, these had some issues with the fuel pressure relay. Look for a green relay on the passenger side, behind the battery (you'll have to pull the battery). Make sure the wires are connected properly on the relay. Are they corroded or broken? If so, fix 'em. You can also test the relay (or replace it, they're cheap).
Less common: Fuel pump relay behind the passenger seat can fail. It's blue, and has been the culprit on more than a few of these.
Another possibility: Let's check fuel pressure (you can rent a gauge and T it into the fuel supply line (even put it in place of the filter, if you want). Should be 30 lbs at idle.
Now, vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator comes from the intake manifold and should be approx 15" at engine idle. BUT, on acceleration, the vacuum port is bypassed - so, no vacuum to the regulator (which increases fuel pressure and volume).
Unplug the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator while the car is idling. Fuel pressure SHOULD jump to 37 psi. If not, you have a regulator issue, OR a bad vacuum line.
Has the car ever overheated? Are you capable of running a compression test? If so, an odd compression test result could indicate timing belt may have jumped (causing those symptoms).