Why won't it move?

[kereupt]

Ok so first having some big issues with my new Z(first time owner) Instead of doing it myself I sent it over to a shop in town to get some work. They are not a 300zx or speciality shop but I figured it would be ok to send it there because changing a clutch is pretty standard across the board.

3/28/15 Bought the car, was not driven for another three weeks until it warmed up.

4/23/15 Clutch went bad/slave cylinder started leaking. Car was revving up to 5-6 rpms when barely accelerating. Clutch/slave cylinder was replaced, pedal adjusted, and the flywheel was resurfaced.

4/28/15 Car was driving ok,was kind of rough shifting(odd for a new clutch) 4 days later I start to have a major problem even shifting into even first or second. It just flat out refused to shift. So it turns out that the master cylinder was bad and was not holding fluid so the clutch would not engage. Master cylinder replaced and the car was again adjusted.

It drove the best it had ever had after the master was replaced. It shifted smoothly and fluidly without grinding and it was the first time I've enjoyed on the Z on the road since I bought it a month ago.

5/1 The original issue popped back up. I took it to work for the first time and on the way home i tried to accelerate after a stoplight and it immediately went in to 5-6 rpms with hardly any acceleration. When I got to the shop to explain what happened when i got back in the car it wouldn't even move on top of everything! it shifted but just would not accelerate with movement!

I am extremely frustrated as it seems the original issue is back! I took it to the shop and they told me that honestly the only thing it could be(at this point, after doing all this work) is a clutch pedal adjustment. Claims there is no possible way its the transmission and clutch pedal is the only adjustable thing. But they've already adjusted it twice. So I talked to the guy that's been working on it and he told to adjust the clutch on the Z you need to take out the master cylinder. But from every how to guide on 300zx's the clutch pedal is located above where the clutch/brake/gas is .http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg...&msg_id=880853

So my question to all the people who do know the Z.. what the hell is going on with this car and why $750 later it won't even move?

[Rubyz32]

Just a shot in the dark, but are they bleeding it right? I had similar problems, replaced the clutch hard line with the braided one from z1 and had no problems since... Aside from the t-belt tensioner giving out, but that's another story.

[DCaff300ZX]

First off, as you have found out the hard way you really don't want to take a Z32 to any old shop for any repairs, they WILL make mistakes and will not be "up" on certain procedures that must be followed on a Z32...and you will get what you have gotten, poor service and a "I dunno" reply to your concerns.
Find yourself a good Nissan mechanic at the least, and a Z32 specialist at best. We can help point you in the right direction with many things and help you with DIY, but if you are not mechanically inclined then the qualified mechanic is a must.

The clutch in a Z32 (and many Nissans) is hydraulically operated but with a vacuum assist, same as the brakes. There is a small booster cylinder at the end of the pedal/on firewall same as brakes, with a fluid reservoir and line to the clutch slave same as brakes that must be bled, and can be leaking slowly and causing this issue which I have experienced in a Nissan Stanza years ago. The system would lose fluid slowly and with air replacing it would be spongy/hard to drive, until it eventually stopped operating (no fluid/all air) and you'd need to refill/rebleed...and repeat.
Hope this helps!