Whistle Noise when driving

[Rakesh1756]

My ride is one 2020 Nissan Rogue SV AWD (2nd gen). Bought it in 2023 at around 43700KMS. It is now at 55000kms.

The car makes a loud whistle /continuous squeak when accelerating. I notice the sound comes from somewhere behind the car. It used to be less noisier an year ago and started to get louder now. I noticed it is mostly between 20KMPH to 50KMPH.

I hear this noise both when accelerating and decelerating. This whistling noise is not heard when car is idling. Interestingly, this noise is not there at all sometimes, when the climate is cold (Canada!).

A trusted mechanic said the brake and rotos look good and should not be the issue. It was a cold day and so, mechanic could not witness this sound on that day.

Anyone experienced such issue? Internet searches pinpoint vacuum leaks could cause this whistle. Welcome your thoughts.

[VStar650CL]

Vacuum leaks won't usually be at the back of the car, unless there's a leak in the evap purge system. However, that will always cause evap codes and light the MIL, and in any event I've never heard one make an audible whistle. Continuous squeaks in the rear on gen2 AWD's are often from the driveshaft U-joints or the AWD viscous coupler. If the noise seems linked to road speed and is more squeak than whistle, that's the first place I'd look. It might help if you could post a vid or recording so we can hear the noise for ourselves.

[Rakesh1756]

Vacuum leaks won't usually be at the back of the car, unless there's a leak in the evap purge system. However, that will always cause evap codes and light the MIL, and in any event I've never heard one make an audible whistle. Continuous squeaks in the rear on gen2 AWD's are often from the driveshaft U-joints or the AWD viscous coupler. If the noise seems linked to road speed and is more squeak than whistle, that's the first place I'd look. It might help if you could post a vid or recording so we can hear the noise for ourselves.

Thank you for the response. I will try to get an video (of RPM) and audio ( of sound) when it happens next time. Climate is colder and I am partly sure , this noise wont happen today.

[Rakesh1756]

Vacuum leaks won't usually be at the back of the car, unless there's a leak in the evap purge system. However, that will always cause evap codes and light the MIL, and in any event I've never heard one make an audible whistle. Continuous squeaks in the rear on gen2 AWD's are often from the driveshaft U-joints or the AWD viscous coupler. If the noise seems linked to road speed and is more squeak than whistle, that's the first place I'd look. It might help if you could post a vid or recording so we can hear the noise for ourselves.

Hello Vstar650CL,

Please find the below link having 2 videos of car making the sound . I am not pretty sure if it comes from rear end of car though.

https://youtube.com/shorts/mHUwQQJsuBM? ... skPItxrZHn

https://youtu.be/3m8_VCcxt6o?si=bcDV9CS1E_mfV0wk


Appreciate your thoughts on this issue!

Thanks,
Jags

[VStar650CL]

That's weird indeed. The only thing that comes to mind which can make a continuous whistle like that is the noisemakers (wear indicators) on the brake pads.

[Rakesh1756]

That's weird indeed. The only thing that comes to mind which can make a continuous whistle like that is the noisemakers (wear indicators) on the brake pads.

Thank you! That’s a relief if that was the case. I’ve driven enough but mechanic says the pads have more lift left . I’m wondering if it is the brake pads too… Will take the car to a different mechanic and see.

[VStar650CL]

The inside pads need to be checked, you can't just shine a flashlight on the outer ones. On everything Nissan the inners tend to wear a bit quicker than the outers, and when a slider sticks, it's always the inners that go away in a hurry. Have somebody pull all 4 wheels or use a borescope for a proper looksee.

[AZhitman]

^ This.

I'm going to guess stuck slider pin(s). They don't always get cleaned and re-greased at a pad change.

[Rakesh1756]

The inside pads need to be checked, you can't just shine a flashlight on the outer ones. On everything Nissan the inners tend to wear a bit quicker than the outers, and when a slider sticks, it's always the inners that go away in a hurry. Have somebody pull all 4 wheels or use a borescope for a proper looksee.

I am at the mechanic shop right now. He changed the rear brake pads and rotors and we tested again. We are getting the same noise. He lifted the car up and let it run. Same squeaky noise beyond a 20kmph. He feels some parts are touching each other somewhere next to the rear wheels. He is stil checking.. let’s see..

[VStar650CL]

Shouldn't be too tough to isolate it with a stethoscope if it will make the noise on a lift.

[Rakesh1756]

Shouldn't be too tough to isolate it with a stethoscope if it will make the noise on a lift.

It was easier for him to test with the new break pad marks on the new rotor. Rear right wheel brake caliper assembly is crooked, it is a bit tilted outwards. So one end of the brake pad keeps touching the rotor and the other end , not at all.in one Image, you can see pad marks at only near to the Center of the roter but not the far end of rortor. He hammered the caliper and it worked a bit, but, not fully resolved, I still get a faint noise. Planning to visit next week.

[VStar650CL]

The only way a caliper gets ka-ka like that is if a slider is stuck. As AZ noted earlier, the sliders are often neglected during a pad change. If the rust is bad and the hole can't be cleared to allow the pin to slide freely, the whole caliper should be replaced. The sealing bellows on the pins should also be inspected and replaced if there's any evidence of the rubber cracking.

[Rakesh1756]

The only way a caliper gets ka-ka like that is if a slider is stuck. As AZ noted earlier, the sliders are often neglected during a pad change. If the rust is bad and the hole can't be cleared to allow the pin to slide freely, the whole caliper should be replaced. The sealing bellows on the pins should also be inspected and replaced if there's any evidence of the rubber cracking.

I told the same to my mechanic . He said he greased it. Not sure if it was an issue . Let me check with him next week.

[Rakesh1756]

Vacuum leaks won't usually be at the back of the car, unless there's a leak in the evap purge system. However, that will always cause evap codes and light the MIL, and in any event I've never heard one make an audible whistle. Continuous squeaks in the rear on gen2 AWD's are often from the driveshaft U-joints or the AWD viscous coupler. If the noise seems linked to road speed and is more squeak than whistle, that's the first place I'd look. It might help if you could post a vid or recording so we can hear the noise for ourselves.

Thank you for the response. I will try to get an video (of RPM) and audio ( of sound) when it happens next time. Climate is colder and I am partly sure , this noise wont happen today.

The mechanic went under the car body with a stethoscope kind of a thing. He is sure the sound is from the viscous coupler. He is asking if we can use extended insurance to claim the repair further. I am thinking if I should take it to showroom to have it repaired. Wondering..

[VStar650CL]

On a '20 you still might be covered under the 5/60 drivetrain warranty, depending on the in-service date. The part would definitely be covered and you're in on mileage, the question is whether you're still under 5 years since it was sold. If it's a US model I can run your VIN through ASIST and see when it was PDI'd (I think I can run a Canada model too, but no promises). Otherwise you'll need to check with a dealer. They should be able to tell you over the phone whether the drivetrain warranty is still in effect.

[Rakesh1756]

On a '20 you still might be covered under the 5/60 drivetrain warranty, depending on the in-service date. The part would definitely be covered and you're in on mileage, the question is whether you're still under 5 years since it was sold. If it's a US model I can run your VIN through ASIST and see when it was PDI'd (I think I can run a Canada model too, but no promises). Otherwise you'll need to check with a dealer. They should be able to tell you over the phone whether the drivetrain warranty is still in effect.

Thank you. I have booked an appointment with the dealership. I will keep you posted

[VStar650CL]

Five minutes ago I witnessed an identical case of this on an '18 Murano AWD. Same deal, a very loud whistle coming from the coupler anytime the driveshaft turns, very obvious with the car running on a lift. Now I wonder if this is a trend. If time allows, I'll try to disassemble the faulty coupler and see what's causing all that noise.

[Rakesh1756]

Five minutes ago I witnessed an identical case of this on an '18 Murano AWD. Same deal, a very loud whistle coming from the coupler anytime the driveshaft turns, very obvious with the car running on a lift. Now I wonder if this is a trend. If time allows, I'll try to disassemble the faulty coupler and see what's causing all that noise.

Apologies for the late response. I took my car to the Nissan service. They found issues with the coupler and replaced it. It costed a 3Grand (Canada) but luckily I had extended warranty.

[VStar650CL]

I never was able to open up that Murano coupler, it was also under extended warranty and the part had to be turned in. We haven't seen any other cases since, so at least it doesn't seem to be a trend (phew). But it would still be nice to know how a part like that could generate such an un-diff-like noise. We're used to clicks, clunks, and grinds from those sorts of drivetrain parts, but whistling is a new one.