For me, the benefit of putting into manual mode is to let the engine rev higher so I can hear my exhaust and intake! lolNissanAltimaGuy wrote:Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but in my informal shade tree testing, I found no benefit to using that over leaving it in drive.
Twisty roads maybe? I dunno - I live in a desert so my test was more straight line performance.
Hi, sorry just one quick question, what is a grounding kit and what does it do?? never heard of it beforeFerguson wrote:In manual mode, you can just floor it and let the car shift by itself, if you like. I don't. I prefer to shift at about 6050-6100 RPM, roughly 100-150 RPM sooner, which can be a tough target to hit until you are used to it. Manual shifts are crisper and faster, especially after adding a full grounding kit. Also, at 6050-6100, you have just surpassed the max HP (at which point the HP drops quickly), and shifting then drops you right back into the high-end of the engine's TQ band. Much like a 6MT does. My own (and timed by my son) observations are that pure CVT mode is NOT the fastest way to drive the car. It never operates the engine at max HP or max TQ but settles for something somewhere in between. If that were indeed optimum, then the CVT should be faster than the MT (after the MT's initial better line launch), but I think we all know it isn't.
A grounding kit consists of several heavy gauge cables (mine are 4 gauge) that connect various electrical systems directly to the battery ground, rather than relying on the chassis ground. The theory is that direct grounding improves the performance of several items, like on-board computers, stereos, sensing and control electronics, etc.Northernstar wrote:Hi, sorry just one quick question, what is a grounding kit and what does it do?? never heard of it before
what i usually do from a roll and it would probably work from a stop too is floor the gas all the way down in manual mode and at about 4k RPMs put it back in "D" but keep your foot all the way down on the gas the whole time.... its been a while since i tested it so i forgot exactly what RPM but theres a sweet spot around 4k RPM where it will just shoot up to redline and sit there... if you do it from say 3,000 RPM it will just go from 3k but if you do it too late it will sort of shift into the next gear when it goes to "D" but if you can hit the sweet spot the RPMs will shoot to redline.....milkacaduke wrote:i've been wondering this question like forever and i ran a few tests alone and also with my friend's 2.5. im a 2.5 btw
these are just results of the tests, not saying that its a fact.
pure manual < pure CVT < manual+CVT
manual+CVT is something like manual 1-2 gear at like 5k+rpm and CVTbut again, these are just random tests, alot of factors are involved so...
there's one more way i tried CVT 1-3rd and at 3rd+ manual at high rpm << its mainly for exhaust sounds, not sure is it actually faster or not lol
but again, i wonder the same thing as everyone and my tests could be completely off its not professional tests
Like any other mod, it SHOULD not void your warranty. In fact, my G35 was at the dealer for a replacement engine (oil consumption issue) and the dealership actually reinstalled my grounding kit (incorrectly, but w/e).c46 wrote:Sorry if this is thread-jacking. But since we were talking about Grounding Kits in the previous posts...
Does Grounding Kit void warranty? Has anyone had any experience taking a car with a Grounding Kit to a dealer for service?
If you live anywhere where there's snow, you'd figure it out right quick.NissanAltimaGuy wrote:Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but in my informal shade tree testing, I found no benefit to using that over leaving it in drive.
Twisty roads maybe? I dunno - I live in a desert so my test was more straight line performance.