I found this great site http://nissannut.com/maintenance/wheel_bearing_tool/

This would be immensly helpful when i change out my brake disc and pads, its a dana 44 tool, and you file out 2 of the tabs that stick out.

if anybody has a better tool or tool modification for torquing the wheel bearing, post em!

Check this thread out NPORA Socket Thread

I didnt even know that ring had to be torqued on. I did my brakes with my dad and he simply used a flathead to pop loose then tighten that ring... Took forever to figure out thats what even had to come off it was coverred in so much grease lol

Should we have used a special tool??

yea, i think it seats your bearings properly...

damn, that socket is $40

o, nvm, this one is bout 22 shipped,

http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN/tool/T_4170.htm

from Pezzy over at Npora

I found its dimensions if anyone wants to go DIY and make there own or make something work

a screwdriver and hammer works great.

THE LOCKNUT IS NOT SUPPOSED TO BE TORQUED!!

the only time you apply torque to the locknut is to seat the bearing, not for final installation. just crank on the locknut with a punch and hammer, spin the hub, then crank on the locknut to make sure it's still tight. then you loosen the locknut all the way, and then retighten to 10in-lb - aka barely hand tight.

if you tighten the locknut, it will destroy the wheel bearing due to excess friction and heat.

just FYI.

canuckQX4, i strongly recommend you redo your wheel bearings before it's too late. tapered wheel bearings by design are supposed to have noticeable play.

thats true, but i need a tool to torque it to 70 ftlbs before loosening it to 0 ftlbs

m0nkeyprince wrote:thats true, but i need a tool to torque it to 70 ftlbs before loosening it to 0 ftlbs

you don't have a screwdriver and hammer?

i do, im just trying not to involve hammers when im working on the car, specially after i tried bashing the outer cv joint. but hey, if it works, ill give it a whirl

alexf20c wrote:
THE LOCKNUT IS NOT SUPPOSED TO BE TORQUED!!

the only time you apply torque to the lock nut is to seat the bearing, not for final installation. just crank on the lock nut with a punch and hammer, spin the hub, then crank on the lock nut to make sure it's still tight. then you loosen the lock nut all the way, and then re tighten to 10in-lb - aka barely hand tight.

if you tighten the lock nut, it will destroy the wheel bearing due to excess friction and heat.

just FYI.

canuckQX4, i strongly recommend you redo your wheel bearings before it's too late. tapered wheel bearings by design are supposed to have noticeable play.

Oh so true.
I had new brakes done last year on my Pathy by a mechanic that was recommended to me by a friend.
That turned out to be a mistake.
He wasn't that familiar with Pathfinders, and although my brakes are still OK,
I had to have my wheel bearings replaced this year because he f'ed them up.
I actually took it to my dealer and had an experienced tech (that I've known for a long time) replace them.
He was up front and told me why my bearings failed.
Take Alex' advice.

Found a retailer that stocks an EXACT FIT socket

N.A.P.A

I went to O'Reilly's, Advance, AutoZone, Bap-Geon....not one of the had it...

N.A.P.A....under 20$

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Catal ... 0109503479

That may be the one (not sure about the size)....but they have it in store!

m0nkeyprince wrote:o, nvm, this one is bout 22 shipped,

http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN/tool/T_4170.htm

from Pezzy over at Npora

Just bought this from autoparts.com. Anyone else bought anything from them before? Hope they're reputable.