What fluids and filters do you use? *Maintenance*

A forum for the legendary Nissan Pathfinder and Infiniti QX4.
carnal_c30
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I agree, I change the air filters quite regularly, it used to be because of driving on trails I felt the need to change it more frequently, now every 3 oil changes is like every year and a half. I have stacks of air filters lying around because I do oil changes for my girlfriend and family and when I buy oil change specials I usually just tack on the air filter for $4-$7 whatever it is.

Definitely I see how you can allow contaminants in when changing the filter, I try to be careful about that.

I will agree on switching to synthetic ATF for the PS system, it's one of the most neglected parts in all my cars, and it's a small amount of fluid it's not going to be costly. My next change will be synthetic. I think the turkey baster method is the most convenient way of changing the fluid, so I'll probably start doing that with all my cars. I've replaced two racks and two pumps in my other Nissans recently so if there is anything I can do to extend the life of the PS system I'm on it!

The ATE does come in amber, I found out about that rather recently. I sell automotive parts all day so ATE super blue is always sitting in the warehouse which is why I used it.


Thank you sir for the feedback!


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Towncivilian
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BubbaFL wrote:Right now it's "sliver bottle" STP High Mileage, just because I got a great price on a few. When that runs out, it will be STP blue bottle or the Supertech generic equivalent (25 bottles of that in my stockpile from when WM clearanced it out)

I use the STP because 5 quarts of Synpower 5w-30 is about $15 cheaper than 5w-40 (which I'd rather run in this climate).
See this post at Bob Is The Oil Guy for a virgin oil analysis of STP High Mileage Oil Treatment. It's crazy thick and really does not contain a ton of additives - I'm almost certain a quart of SuperTech 5W-30 contains more calcium, phosphorus, and zinc than the STP goop. As I said before in one of my previous replies in this thread, it's a wiser idea to just run a thicker oil if that's what you desire.

@carnal_c30: you're quite welcome! I'm glad to offer my opinion. :)

Yazir
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Towncivilian wrote: Go ahead and change the fluid, but do a few drain & fills with a few weeks of driving in between to slowly replace the fluid and do some gentle cleaning. Replace the crush washer on the last drain & fill. Torque spec for the drain plug is 22 - 29 ft/lbs. Better yet, do a pan drop first then a couple more drain & fills.
I've been reading those lines very carefully so I don't mess up my transmission. I just bought my Pathy with 172k and I'm not sure if the AT fluid has ever been changed hopefully it has. When you recommend to drain and fill, you mean drain all that can be drained on one drain (sounds stupid but should make sense) or to stop it after a low amount of fluid falling? I suspect the first, because one drain only removes a portion of the fluid unless it's being flushed. Am I right? According to your instructions of a total of 3 drains, would each drain remove around 1/3 of the total fluid capacity?

So, it would be:
- Pan drop with one drain and fill, replacing filter and pan.
- A couple more drain and fills with a few weeks of driving in between, replaing crush washer after the last drain.

I'm concerned because I don't want my transmission to be affected by a total replacement of fluid via a flush in case it hasn't been changed in too long. It doesn't really smell burnt.

Thank you for the info Towncivilian.

Yazir.

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Towncivilian
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If the fluid still looks red and smells alright, it would be more efficient and less wasteful to do a cooler line fluid exchange. This exchanges all of the fluid at once, and is no problem if the transmission is working fine and the current fluid is in acceptable condition. The pan strainer is not an absolute necessity to change, it doesn't filter anything particularly fine and is more like a rock catcher than a filter. If that gets clogged, you have bigger problems.

You can find steps on performing a cooler line exchange in the general information thread linked in my signature.

Yazir
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Ok, I understand. Because I flushed the AT fluid out of my 1992 Mercedes 190E two months after I bought it with 163,000. The transmission was working fine, and after the flush it just keeps getting stuck on 3rd for too long and I don't know how to fix that. I don't want to flush my Pathfinder.

The cooler line fluid exchange sounds good, I'll read about it. Thanks a lot.

Yazir.

bryanmenard
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Removing this post because of a condescending response from one of the moderators. My input is clearly not needed or desired.
Last edited by bryanmenard on Fri Feb 08, 2013 12:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Why 10W-30? 5W-30 and 10W-30 will be within the same viscosity grade at operating temperature, but 5W will be thinner at cold starts which is preferable. Wix filters are great.

I doubt Nissan's gear oil is anything special. You can purchase Mobil 1 75W-90 gear oil for very cheap if you order from Advance Auto Parts online using a discount code then pick-up in store. I would continue to use Nissan transmission fluid, whether auto or manual. I'd imagine Nissan's MTF is of high quality and is of course GL-4 rated for proper compatibility with the transmission.

bryanmenard
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Removing this post because of a condescending response from one of the moderators. My input is clearly not needed or desired.
Last edited by bryanmenard on Fri Feb 08, 2013 12:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Towncivilian
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Just because you can use 10W-30, doesn't mean it's better. As I said, both 5W-30 and 10W-30 are within the same viscosity grade at operating temperature, only their viscosity and flow parameters at lower temperatures differs. Even a hot 90F summer day is a cold start for an engine. The thinner the oil is during a "cold" start, the quicker it flows and heats up to operating temperature. However, you're correct that we're just picking nits - your QX4 will no doubt last just as long using 10W-30 vs 5W-30 oil. If it were my vehicle, I would and do run 5W-30, though I did recently purchase quite a few 5 quart jugs of Valvoline NextGen 10W-40 on clearance for $10 a jug and will happily run that without a second thought here in Florida.

Most aftermarket gear oils contain limited slip additive already. If there is an insufficient amount, LS additives are available to add to the oil as well. Though, there is nothing wrong with the Nissan gear oil at all and the more important fact is that you changed it and evacuated all that break-in wear and any crud left over from manufacturing that was still floating around in your 125k old gear oil. Don't worry - I changed my factory fill at 123k miles as well, and my differential is still fine. No doubt there are vehicles with 300k+ miles on their differential(s) still driving around without an issue.

Have you ever changed the fluids in your transfer case, front differential, power steering, engine coolant, and brake fluid? How about the fuel filter and cabin air filter?

bryanmenard
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Removing this post because of a condescending response from one of the moderators. My input is clearly not needed or desired.
Last edited by bryanmenard on Fri Feb 08, 2013 12:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Towncivilian
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That is a ridiculously short and wasteful air filter change interval. Air filters (all types of filters, really) filter more efficiently as they load up with contaminants. By changing the air filter that often, you are introducing more contaminants into the engine than you otherwise would, plus by removing the filter you are potentially introducing dust and dirt into the airbox. I highly suggest you read this post and consider greatly extending your air filter change interval, OR install an air filter restriction gauge to know with certainty when to change your air filter.

bryanmenard
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I entered this discussion to state what fluids and filters I use. I'm not here to be schooled. No one knows my driving conditions as well as I do. I'll do what I do with my vehicles. You'll do what you do with your vehicles. I'll respect you. It's only fair that you respect me. In light of what I perceive to be a rather condescending tone in your posts, I went ahead and deleted my previous posts. You have a good day and I'll do the same.

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Towncivilian
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I apologize if I came across as condescending or rude - I was offering my input and would like to help maximize potential life of your vehicle. I do admit my previous wording was somewhat condescending in regard to some of the adjectives I used; once again, I apologize. I'm not trying to force change or imply that your engine will catch on fire or anything, I was just trying to convey my thoughts on the matter and try to back it up with facts and suggestions and encourage others to learn more about the various lubricants and filters used in vehicles. There is arguably a lot of misinformation on the Internet and even by some dealerships and mechanics.

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atraudes
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Reviving this one since it's so useful and I'd like to hear more voices! Every time I do an oil change I also do a few pumps of grease in the front driveshaft and give the MAF sensor a quick clean.

I have 162k miles on my QX4.


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