what do you use to controll your electric fan???

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
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ANVIL
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im going to be using a single 14", not sure if it will fit as a puller but im going to try, it not, wont be a big deal to make it a pusher


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l0nestar
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Tell me that I'm wrong, but after reviewing the materials for the SPAL fan controller, it seems like you _need_ to have a SPAL fan to go along with it (or another variable speed fan). Plus when you add up the price of the 2nd relay, it is within a few dollars (well, 10-20) of a DiF controller.

I'm debating on using the FAL controller first, and if it does not work out, proceed with the DiF unit. I know the FAL unit is more 'old tech' but I just need a basic controller.

Does anybody have any suggestions or better recommendations?

PS I went with a pair of 12" reversible fans that I can possibly mount as pullers.

gawdzilla
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one thing i don't really like about the FAL controller is it is adjustable, but the "range" for shutting off is not adjustable. for example, you can make it turn on at 180, 190 F etc. but it will always shut off about ~35-40 degrees cooler than the "on" temp. The shutoff temp is a fixed offset from the "on" temp. if you have a fan setup that can't drop the temps far enough to the turnoff point, they will never turn off.

i'm not familiar with other controllers so i don't know if you can narrow the range of operation on those.

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BoostFab
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gawdzilla wrote:one thing i don't really like about the FAL controller is it is adjustable, but the "range" for shutting off is not adjustable. for example, you can make it turn on at 180, 190 F etc. but it will always shut off about ~35-40 degrees cooler than the "on" temp. The shutoff temp is a fixed offset from the "on" temp. if you have a fan setup that can't drop the temps far enough to the turnoff point, they will never turn off.

i'm not familiar with other controllers so i don't know if you can narrow the range of operation on those.
that make sense, why would you want to shut off the fan when the temp isn't cool enough below the engage temp. if your fan is not bring the temp down much and always stay on, then looks like time for new larger or more efficient fans. maybe shroud it helps also.

gawdzilla
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my fan will shut off but will take a very long time to when it's hot out. just wish the shutoff temp could be a slightly narrower range to keep the temps more stable.. right now its about a 40 degree fluxuation for me

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BoostFab
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is your's setup as pusher or puller ?i didnt have problem with my dual 12" in texas heat. and i'm using the standard rb's 1" core radiator

gawdzilla
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BoostsFed wrote:is your's setup as pusher or puller ?i didnt have problem with my dual 12" in texas heat. and i'm using the standard rb's 1" core radiator
i've got a new setup going now that hasn't been tested in hot temps, but the old setup was koyo rad with dual ebay pushers. wasn't really cutting it on hot days.

now i've got fal dual pushers/koyo/upper and lower shrouding/much better tune. should hold up better this summer for some hot laps once i add an oil cooler.

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ripracer
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Aren' fans designed to be either a push or pull, by the design of the actual blade? Though they are easily reversible shouldn't you use them the way they are designed for best results?

I have stock KA radiator with daul 10" spal pullers and it's time to upgrade. It only get hot a on track days.

gawdzilla
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ripracer wrote:Aren' fans designed to be either a push or pull, by the design of the actual blade? Though they are easily reversible shouldn't you use them the way they are designed for best results?
yes, to a certain extent, at least on the more expensive fans. FALs (and probably SPALs) have specific push or pull blades, and they curved differently. The motors, however, you just reverse the polarity and run it backwards. At least that is how FAL is. If you get cheaper, generic fans, they will be universal for push and pull with a flatter blade and you switch the polarity. That's how my ebays were..

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MyLiLsKyLiNe
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all i did was purchase some high flow fans for my koyo radiator. (for my rb20det) and all i did was connect the fans to a basic and affordable (manual fan switch) it works great no problems so far but i guess if anyone would like to spend there bread on BATMANS hardwear for there cars interior all high tech an all then be my guest? but my set up works just fine. ( the way i set up my fans manually... also you will know that your car wont overheat because if you set it up properly as far as splicing the wires to the fans to the manual switch than its all good.

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BoostFab
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MyLiLsKyLiNe wrote:all i did was purchase some high flow fans for my koyo radiator. (for my rb20det) and all i did was connect the fans to a basic and affordable (manual fan switch) it works great no problems so far but i guess if anyone would like to spend there bread on BATMANS hardwear for there cars interior all high tech an all then be my guest? but my set up works just fine. ( the way i set up my fans manually... also you will know that your car wont overheat because if you set it up properly as far as splicing the wires to the fans to the manual switch than its all good.
the whole idea with the adjustable controller is you will never have to worry about turning it on or off, at a certain temp. anyone can wire in a simple manual switch.

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MyLiLsKyLiNe
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does'nt matter either way ... it will work. just that i dont ever have to worry about it not working on times... with a manual switch. why wait like a dush bag for the fans to kick in when you can easily have the fan power on at all times. like so 1. turn on the manual electrical fans first before starting your engine.2. listen for the power wind blowing from the fans. So right there as you hear the fans on, you are then assured that the fans are working constantly, without worrying if one time BATMANS temp controlled fans might fail from time to time ..or will bound to happen sooner or later. 3.then turn on your engine & enjoy your ride (overheating free) also knowing that you then also saved money and knowing that you are smarter than the average ...... bear wait no thats not right......hmmmm BATMAN that sounds more like it... lolso those who read this and has there 240sx running expensive a$$ temp controllers for there fans eeeewwwww wwwweeeee. you dont need all that BATMAN CR@P lol. its ok we all learn from trial and error .... hopefully not everyday than there might be something wrong with you

gawdzilla
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enough with the "BATMAN" stuff, jesus. some people, okay MOST people (except you and others who look for temporary workarounds to save a few bucks) want their car to run somewhat like it came from the factory. This means having thermostatically controlled fans that kick on automatically. They are reliable b/c they have thermo switches that are used in lots of OEM applications.

You are just running a switch into your cabin which 1) is stupid because you want your fans off until the car warms up. 2) is stupid because you want your fans off when the motor is already cold enough. 3) and let me guess you're probably running a thick gauge wire and pulling a lot of amps through the switch instead of a relay, which is also stupid.

Yes, it is more economical, but you are saving what, $30?? if you weren't looking for kouki tailights and kakimoto exhausts you would've already saved more than that. then again your fan/cooling setup is probably crap so you need the fans on 24/7 to avoid overheating your pos.

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BoostFab
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MyLiLsKyLiNe wrote: you dont need all that BATMAN CR@P lol. its ok we all learn from trial and error .... hopefully not everyday than there might be something wrong with you
speak for yourself.

i know what i'm doing, it's smart and justifiable. your jerry-rig ghetto patch job will work, just not my cup of tea. it's like you spent $1500 on a gt40r turbo and then get a cheap knockoff manifold and knockoff wastegate to use with it.

like he said, just plain stupid to run your fan all the time.

craz4240
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These guys speak the truth.

Myself I have an HKS Fan Controller After Running my fans toggle switched,as well as hooked up to switched 12v for awile.

For one e-fans eat power and your alternator is only 80amps running dual e-fans all the time will kill the alternator,as well as rob voltage from other things like ignitor and coils etc. Stuff you need.

for the 80$ the HKS unit costs,and the 20 mins to hook it up,and the benefits like overheat warning,real temp reading,water spray control,dual fan control (Turning one fan on at one temp and the second when it really heats up)...and various other options.

Fact is the best thing to do is mod your rad support,move your rad forward,ditch the e-fans and re-fit the clutch and shroud it..but if you run the e-fans get thermal control.

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ANVIL
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craz4240 wrote:
for the 80$ the HKS unit costs,and the 20 mins to hook it up,and the benefits like overheat warning,real temp reading,water spray control,dual fan control (Turning one fan on at one temp and the second when it really heats up)...and various other options.
where can i get the hks unit for $80?

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USMCgetsome
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anyone want to detail info about the arm ems and fan controlling!

Darius
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Not to beat a dead horse by adding to this thread, but the DiF fan controller comes with wiring instructions to use the stock temp sensor to the ECU. It details a "+" and "-" wire on the sensor. But the sensor is a resistor that varies with temp. (> temp, < voltage)

On the RB25, shouldn't the "+" wire connect to the B/L (AF58) wire and the "-" connect to the PU (AF23) wire? AF23 is the signal to the ECU after the sensor, so doesn't that make the B/L wire the 5V power wire?

mott6904
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I have a flex-it-lite double pusher fan built into a shroud blowing on a griffin radiator. I use the cheap painless thermo switch to control one fan. It turns on about 180 and shuts off at 170. And then for the other fan i use a toggle in the cabin. This way i dont have to worry about burning up the relay which normally happens when running both fans off the one relay. It works perfect i never had to use the cabing switch.

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S14-NEO
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well this is the fan controlling im using, works like a champ and its pretty cool looking too..



its made by FLEX A LITE and not too many people know about it cause its on the expensive side...near 90.00 but it work very well..its designed to keep the fans from comign on at full blast to keep the amp draw down. they only come on full blast when the temp goes over 10 degrees the preset limit...

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Sil240
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I'm using a regular old thermostat switch and a single SPAL 13" pusher fan.All it does is turn on at 195 and off at 175.Is that too high???I have a stock thermostat.

I would like it to come on earlier but, thats what I have. They do have another sensor to come on at 185 and turn off @ 165.But I don't know if 10deg earlier is worth 40 bucks.http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku

CoupedUp
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Get a real ECU and you're set.

Electromotive.

Done and done.

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Sil240
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What are you talking about???Get a real ECU???


CoupedUp
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Sil240 wrote:What are you talking about???Get a real ECU???
"real" was a relative term.

A standalone, something with an output that will kick the fans on at a certain temperature and kick them off at a certain temperature by a Coolant Temp. Sensor.

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ripracer
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I wanna know where to get one of those HKS units for $80 as well. My gauge just stopped workin on me and figure its time to get a new gauge and would like the hks or dakota digital, really the hks, so i have fan controlling and display in one.

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l0nestar
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I decided to go baller and get the DiF. I'm 100% satisfied with it.

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ANVIL
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is there a way to program it using a Power FC?

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Shocker
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CoupedUp wrote:
"real" was a relative term.

A standalone, something with an output that will kick the fans on at a certain temperature and kick them off at a certain temperature by a Coolant Temp. Sensor.
Haha whats up man!

Yeah electromotive ECU is quite nice, built in fan controller ftw!

I might be looking into a thermo switch as well for it, easier than flippin a button.

cb_240
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S14-NEO wrote:well this is the fan controlling im using, works like a champ and its pretty cool looking too..



its made by FLEX A LITE and not too many people know about it cause its on the expensive side...near 90.00 but it work very well..its designed to keep the fans from comign on at full blast to keep the amp draw down. they only come on full blast when the temp goes over 10 degrees the preset limit...
do you by any chance have the instructions that came with that kit, i have the same one but misplaced my instructions

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S14-NEO
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goto the main flex a lite website and you can download it i am pretty sure.


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