that make sense, why would you want to shut off the fan when the temp isn't cool enough below the engage temp. if your fan is not bring the temp down much and always stay on, then looks like time for new larger or more efficient fans. maybe shroud it helps also.gawdzilla wrote:one thing i don't really like about the FAL controller is it is adjustable, but the "range" for shutting off is not adjustable. for example, you can make it turn on at 180, 190 F etc. but it will always shut off about ~35-40 degrees cooler than the "on" temp. The shutoff temp is a fixed offset from the "on" temp. if you have a fan setup that can't drop the temps far enough to the turnoff point, they will never turn off.
i'm not familiar with other controllers so i don't know if you can narrow the range of operation on those.
i've got a new setup going now that hasn't been tested in hot temps, but the old setup was koyo rad with dual ebay pushers. wasn't really cutting it on hot days.BoostsFed wrote:is your's setup as pusher or puller ?i didnt have problem with my dual 12" in texas heat. and i'm using the standard rb's 1" core radiator
yes, to a certain extent, at least on the more expensive fans. FALs (and probably SPALs) have specific push or pull blades, and they curved differently. The motors, however, you just reverse the polarity and run it backwards. At least that is how FAL is. If you get cheaper, generic fans, they will be universal for push and pull with a flatter blade and you switch the polarity. That's how my ebays were..ripracer wrote:Aren' fans designed to be either a push or pull, by the design of the actual blade? Though they are easily reversible shouldn't you use them the way they are designed for best results?
the whole idea with the adjustable controller is you will never have to worry about turning it on or off, at a certain temp. anyone can wire in a simple manual switch.MyLiLsKyLiNe wrote:all i did was purchase some high flow fans for my koyo radiator. (for my rb20det) and all i did was connect the fans to a basic and affordable (manual fan switch) it works great no problems so far but i guess if anyone would like to spend there bread on BATMANS hardwear for there cars interior all high tech an all then be my guest? but my set up works just fine. ( the way i set up my fans manually... also you will know that your car wont overheat because if you set it up properly as far as splicing the wires to the fans to the manual switch than its all good.
speak for yourself.MyLiLsKyLiNe wrote: you dont need all that BATMAN CR@P lol. its ok we all learn from trial and error .... hopefully not everyday than there might be something wrong with you
where can i get the hks unit for $80?craz4240 wrote:
for the 80$ the HKS unit costs,and the 20 mins to hook it up,and the benefits like overheat warning,real temp reading,water spray control,dual fan control (Turning one fan on at one temp and the second when it really heats up)...and various other options.
"real" was a relative term.Sil240 wrote:What are you talking about???Get a real ECU???
Haha whats up man!CoupedUp wrote:
"real" was a relative term.
A standalone, something with an output that will kick the fans on at a certain temperature and kick them off at a certain temperature by a Coolant Temp. Sensor.
do you by any chance have the instructions that came with that kit, i have the same one but misplaced my instructionsS14-NEO wrote:well this is the fan controlling im using, works like a champ and its pretty cool looking too..
its made by FLEX A LITE and not too many people know about it cause its on the expensive side...near 90.00 but it work very well..its designed to keep the fans from comign on at full blast to keep the amp draw down. they only come on full blast when the temp goes over 10 degrees the preset limit...