weird temperature problem

[jt15833]

my gauge cluster water temp is dead in the middle maybe 3 minutes after driving it. MY autometere electric water temp will not move until 10 minutes of driving then read ~130* all the time unless i come to a stop and it may go to 150*, or if i turn car off and come back 20 minutes later itll be around 180*.

I know people say to not trust the stock gauge, but I dont see how after 10 minutes my autometer can still not be reading over 100*. Ive got both water temperature gauge and oil pressure gauge wired with ignition and ground from radio. You guys have any ideas as if this could be a gauge issue or cooling issue? Sunday when I get time ill take gauge and sender out and stick in pot of water with real thermometer and check that its close. I guess this is better than overheating, but still isnt lower temps bad for fuel economy blah blah?

[biosehnsucht]

WHERE is the autometer sender installed

[pulsar gtr]

Double check to see if you have a thermostate installed, as I have seen if you don't have a thermostate it will take much longer for the temp to go up and when it goes up, it doesn't go up by much.

Good luck,

PULSAR GTRRafi

[float_6969]

First of all, is this an electric gauge? (I'm assuming it is) If so, the ground needs to be located near the actual sensor.

Secondly, where is the sensor located?

Thirdly, make sure you have a thermostat installed and that it's not stuck open.

Lastly, mine doesn't agree with the reading from my SDS either. I think it's because the adapter I had made doesn't put the sensor down into the coolant. Regardless, don't trust the stock gauge, as it's crap. More like a 3 way switch, Cold, N.O.T., You're Fvck3d.

[rico05]

I have a similar issue. My Autometer sender is located on the upper rad hose, and is grounded on a bolt on the intake mani support bracket, on the mani side. My stock gauge reads a smidge above dead center, while my Autometer now reads 135F with a 280ZX copper rad (copper endtanks is the only real difference), Altima fans, and no condenser or frount mount to block the airflow to the radiator. My thermostat is a Nissan OEM one that is 5 months old. I also have my hood propped up quite a bit. Methinks the Autometer sender sucks.

[tyrannix]

cant you splice your gauge into the oem sender? everyone says the sender is awesome, its just the gauge that sucks

[jt15833]

mine is as well mounted on the upper radiator hose. it is grounded on the radiator support but theres less than 3 ohms between sender and negative terminal, so I think my ground is alright. I replaced my thermostat with brand new nissan one. if all senders produce the same voltage (or however they do it) at the same temperature, then I suppose I could tap into the factory sender, anyone have any input on this?

[biosehnsucht]

the senders might or might not reflect the same resistance / temp curve, i.e. they may or may not be interchangable..

[capwred]

you can not use your factory sender i have tryed it and it reads like 280 all the time.but i also have the same problem as everyone else.but my sender is on my buttom hose.i have order the adabter to use the factory sending unit place from autometer.i hope that fix it.

[Not_a_sr]

my greddy reads 90deg since i replaced my thermostat, used to sit at 70. my stock gauge wont go hot till im way over boiling close to 130-150deg.

also putting it in the upper rad hose will lead to some lag time you may have air in the system, and it wont read till the thermostat opens up after warming up. with mine i can watch the thermostat open and shut with the temp flux's, i have a air leak in my system now so its all over the place.

[biosehnsucht]

where is yours located at?

[float_6969]

Putting the sender in the radiator hoses won't give an accurate reading. It needs to be located on the other side of the thermostat for it to work right. I tried to put mine in the stock location, but as I said before, the adapter that I had made for me, won't allow the sending to stick down into the coolant. I'm going to mess with it tonight and see what I can do about it. I'll take pics for you guys and see if that helps.

[capwred]

autometer now makes a adapte from standard to metric i have order it to se if i can get mine to work better.

[float_6969]

I didn't get a chance to mess with mine. If you get your in, get us some pics!

[Not_a_sr]

where is yours located at?

if you look closely this is how i mounted my temp sensor. i made a connector for the top rad hose, now my setup poses alot of problems additional to what normally is cause by putting the temp sensor before the thermostat

[rico05]

http://www.autometer.com/cat_a...id=11

So which of these would one use to adapt a electrical water temp to a 1/8 BPST fitting?

[Not_a_sr]

i would just convert the hole to 1/8th npt via a tap

[float_6969]

The stock gauge sensor hole is too big for an autometer electric sender.

[float_6969]

http://www.autometer.com/cat_a...id=11

So which of these would one use to adapt a electrical water temp to a 1/8 BPST fitting?

I THINK you need #2278

[rico05]

Well, I did some e-Research and found that #2269 is a 1/8 NPT to 1/8 BSPT adapter, and seeing how the sender is 1/8 NPT, and the hole in my GReddy adapter is 1/8 BSPT. It's $12 online, so I will give that a shot. Right now, I kinda forced the sender down into the hole, but it could be in there more.

[capwred]

i order the 2277 and the 2278 just to make sure i had the right one.win they get here i will post and let you know.