Weird Oil Question

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Qdemption
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I have my pass side valve cover off. I have drained the oil that was in there and was wondering if it would be a good idea to poor oil into the exsposed area.

Like in the oil drains and where the timing chain is. My thought process is that this would allow me better access at getting the older oil out. I can't foresee this damaging anything, but before I go splashin oil around I thought I would get some second opinions.


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Not going to hurt anything, nor clean anything either.

In theory you could make an adapter and reverse fill [from the drain] the pan with 6 quarts [7-8-9 quarts] of gasoline [or some less flammable solvent] then drain, refill.

The fastest thing and the least expensive is just change the oil multiple times every week till it stays perfect looking for a few weeks.

Once the additives dirt become baked on it takes hand cleaning and rubbing to get them off.

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Qdemption
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I see what you are saying. That is not a bad idea at all.

I might have to put your theory to the test.

So if I were to have a hose that would seal to the drain, and from that hose figure out a way to allow for the transfer of gas (or maybe even paint thinner) to flow against gravity into the pan, then drain it, then based on theory this would be a worthwhile thing to do. In other words, my time spent on this will not be a total waste.

BTW, I do plan on multiple oil changes. However, what I have been afraid of is possible damage for when I start the car back up (it has been dormant now for 6 months). So I wanted to get some oil in and about the engine before I awakened it from hibernation.

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Why the envirolution mechanical crankcase flush is really a very cheap option. 15 gallons of dual filtered cleaning solution twice through the crankcase and heads in a reverse flow.

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Q451990
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My only concern about pumping gasoline or cleaners into the oil pan is that you'll leave some of it in there - assuming the car isn't exactly level and tilted to the right for optimal draining. As long as you follow everything up with a couple of oil changes it would probably be OK.

I sure like that envirolution flush idea though - for about $125, that might be the easiest answer!

Heath

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My envirolution flush in College Station at the Nissan dealer was $100 with my M1, BG MOL(?), washer and oil filter.

It was $189 at Infiniti of Kirkland with my M1. YMMV.__________________Brian1995 Q45 & Q45t & 2000 Q45

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elwesso
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$125 at my nissan dealer, Im getting it done next week.... Except they use the Bilstein process (same diff)

Ben- This is by far your best option.... I wouldnt bother with scrubbing the heads any more, as the envirolution does this, but better.....

Brian. When your got your flush, do they suggest you change the oil say like 200 miles after the flush to get any residual crap out of there... I have a case of durablend waiting to be put in!! :D Also, for the record, I assume there is NO chance of something getting messed up by this....

maxnix
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elwesso wrote:Brian. When your got your flush, do they suggest you change the oil say like 200 miles after the flush to get any residual crap out of there... I have a case of durablend waiting to be put in!! :D Also, for the record, I assume there is NO chance of something getting messed up by this....
No. The envirolution is a complete mechanical flush and extraction with the cleaning solution. There is no residual crap.

I have been told of the necessity of doing two or three flushes while hooked to the machine for engines with no oil change for 30K to get the carbon (literally like coke) out of the abused engine. Just check your upper oil fill hole to see if the varnish has diminished before and after the flush, but before they unhook the machine. That being said, most of the benefits gained are in the lower end, oil return passages and lifter lubrication ports.

I was told it is a recommended procedure every 30K. Whith a strict regimen of M1 or another synthetic, I would think every 50K or 60K would be sufficient.

By the way, the extraction is so complete, you will need .5 qt of additional oil. Might consider a can of the BG additive (MOL?), if you think your engine is tight enough. It should be if it is not burning oil.

All in all. I highly recommend the procedure, although all my experience is limited to the envirolution machine.__________________Brian1995 Q45 & Q45t & 2000 Q45

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Ok.... WEll I wont have time to get the BG stuff from Joe.... I wanna get this done ASAP...

As seen from the pictures in my valve covers, its got some stuff on it, but its not caked.... Almost like a saran wrap coating, very thin.....

Would I have to pay extra for the extra flushing?? LIke do they just leave it hooked up to the machine longer or what....?

Im running dino 10w30 rihgt now, getting the flush, and then im using durablend 5w30 for the rest of the winter.....

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elwesso wrote:Would I have to pay extra for the extra flushing?? LIke do they just leave it hooked up to the machine longer or what....?
Yes, there is no free lunch, Wes. However, you avoid the cost of the hook-up charge. That's why you decide before you disconnect.

On the envirolution, I would expect the secondary filter to be changed for new one since that is done for every flush.__________________Brian1995 Q45 & Q45t & 2000 Q45

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