I started the battle of replacing the water pump in my 2007 G35 Journey with the HR engine. This is making me long for an older car that is much simpler to work on. Why did they have to bury it under the timing chain cover that requires removing the oil pan, ps pump, a/c compressor, alternator, intake plenum (also the manifold?), and likely the radiator? All for a $50 part! Maybe, just maybe, I'll do a write-up on this job, but since I'm not taking notes as I go we'll have to see how much I remember. If anyone knows how to do this without so much work let me know!

mac, please post how many miles on there when this happened , because a coupe of vehicles with a similar w/pump location (11 hour labor est.) ,been looking at some of those on Autotrader - that becomes a deal breaker for me when a cheap part that WILL fail is that far "back into motor".Not much way around those , I'm not pretending to know the details now, I sympathize.I'm a mechanic , I know a buddy with a reputable shop - I would pony up myself ,let him do it ,for any consolation to you there.
Tip if no timing "belt" to replace too , and it's a "chain" - I would put new tensioner,runners & guides especially when they're probably plastic.

I am in the same boat...about to start mine soon

ToTheMaxima wrote: ↑

Mon May 21, 2018 6:48 pm

I am in the same boat...about to start mine soon

I suspect yours will be much simpler if it's on a 2004 maximal. You may have small covers over the chain tensioner and pump so way less work is required.

Mac, mileage is 175k.

I just noticed something. On the left side of the engine I can see the chain tensioner, just as you would on the DE engine. So basically they added the VVT setup and just made a cover for both. Given this, why on earth wouldn't they do the same on the right for the water pump? It would've been just as easy and no-one would have to go through the pain of removing the timing chain cover! Argh! I will never understand manufacturing engineers.

Finally got the crank pulley off (used a chain wrench with old belt wrapped around the pulley and a breaker/cheater bar combo) and proceeded with the remaining teardown. T-stat I got from rockauto was wrong. The casing is too shallow, bolts bottomed out, so I'm keeping the old one. No problems with it so I'll stay with what I know is working. As for removing/installing the water pump (the reason for all this very time consuming work) I had two issues. One, the crank slipped on the chain as I was backing it off for slack. I had noticed a little slack after I removed the tensioner, but did not expect it to slip like it did (and yes, I was maintaining tension on the chain tension guide). Second issue was I could not get the pump out without removing the crank sprocket. I could not get enough slack to clear the pump body. So now the new pump is in, old t-stat is in, and I'm having to line up the crank pulley timing. It seems to be a bit less than 1 tooth off either way. Hopefully nothing crashes. Will test it by cranking it over by hand before reassembling. Wish me luck.

Did you ever get it finished?

MoeTheSLAYER wrote: ↑

Tue Sep 08, 2020 7:37 pm

Did you ever get it finished?

Yes, sorry I never got back here to update. I was also going to do a write up while it was fresh in my mind, but got sidetracked. The job overall isn't bad, just a lot of work. I could do it in a day now if I had to (now that I have a couple of additional tools).

Did you remove radiator/condensor/bumper or lift out engine or only timing chain cover.
I think there is not lot of room in front of chain cover. I am about to start wonder diy or
take it mechanic, Thanks.

I did not remove the radiator as that is more work than necessary. If you take it to a shop I'm sure it'll be at least a $1000 job. My main issue was getting the bolt off the harmonic balancer, but a long breaker bar, a piece of serpentine belt, and a chain wrench do the trick. Be detailed about where all the timing cover bolts go and careful about the oil seals for vcds (which are in the cover and can get lost easily).

Bravo, you did it. All you tube video shows engine lifted or radiator/bumper removed. After reading service manual in detail, I think I will take it to shop. I have removed under cover, hoses, fan and drain coolant. Will take couple of hours to put it back. My thought, what a silly design to take apart so much for a water pump. I will get quotes today. I thank you for giving a quick response.

Yeah, if you're unsure of doing the job then that's best. It's not difficult, just time consuming. I could do it in a day now if I had to, but I've been wrenching on my cars for 40+ years.

By the way, a lot of newer cars have internal water pumps now and while at first I was put off by it I realized it makes sense. Timing chains don't generally break but belts do if they're ignored. If you have an external pump and the belt breaks your engine overheats in a hurry. This gives you more time to get off the road.

Wow 40+ years! I am in my upper 60s and I am working on my cars for 40 plus years, have changed so many water pumps on at least 6 cars. But this time, shamefully I going to pass. You have my respect for tacking this job, it will take at least 3 days for me and now i have a limit to work only two days, 4 hours each. Have a good day Bro.

Update after month and 12 days. Dealer wants $4000 and nearby auto shop about $3000. So I decided to change water pump myself working 3 to 4 hours a day and two days off every week. Today car started at the first try. So I am happy. Most of the time consumed was to remove radiator/condenser which was a mistake.

Sounds good. That first start going well is a real stress reliever. Removing the radiator certainly gives more access, but as you learned, isn't necessary. Good to hear you got the job done!