wastegate and oil line Questions???

Website · Post by **daniel240** » Mon Oct 06, 2003 4:09 pm

ok, ive been looking around at wastegates and ive heard the tial 35mm would be good, however the cheapest i can find is like $200. i dont really want to spend that if possible because im trying to keep this project cheap. i already have a T3/TO4E XS turbo. all i want to run is 6 or 7psi at the most. i may get a manual boost controller if i need one. should i just buy this wastegate or is there another that would work for me that would be cheaper. the downpipe will be all custom also. and i have a custom manifold.

2nd question, do i need to buy a kit for the oil feed lines, and T bracket or can i buy them at like a auto parts store.

Post by **Drift Machine** » Mon Oct 06, 2003 4:09 pm

for the oil lines go to http://www.jgstools.com

Post by **erich** » Mon Oct 06, 2003 4:09 pm

I made my oil lines out of $5 of 1/4 inch brake hardline. It would be difficult to run the line with the engine still in the car though.

Website · Post by **daniel240** » Mon Oct 06, 2003 4:09 pm

yea im also wondering where everyone puts the oil return line at. and when you drill the hole, how do you keep metal shavings from getting inside? i was thinking about taking the oil pan off and drilling it into it but is that too low. i thought oil might back up the line if its too low.

Post by **huguetpj** » Mon Oct 06, 2003 4:09 pm

daniel240 wrote:yea im also wondering where everyone puts the oil return line at. and when you drill the hole, how do you keep metal shavings from getting inside? i was thinking about taking the oil pan off and drilling it into it but is that too low. i thought oil might back up the line if its too low.

If you are gonna drill the pan... PLEASE take it off. You really don't want metal shavings in the oil

Website · Post by **daniel240** » Mon Oct 06, 2003 4:09 pm

huguetpj wrote:If you are gonna drill the pan... PLEASE take it off. You really don't want metal shavings in the oil

yes, that is what i was thinking about doing, i was just wondering if that would be an ok place to run the return line to. or should it go higher up into the block? if i put it into the oil pan, i guess i would have to weld in a nut or something to screw in the return line since its pretty thin.

Post by **huguetpj** » Mon Oct 06, 2003 4:09 pm

The oil pan is fine. Just weld whatever it is you will be welding, high enough. I myself used a 90 degree elbow bend for 5/8" hose. Have some pics, but still need the webspace to upload them.

Website · Post by **daniel240** » Mon Oct 06, 2003 4:09 pm

ok thanks, anyone have any suggestions about my wastegate situation?

Website · Post by **daniel240** » Mon Oct 06, 2003 4:09 pm

i was looking at this wastegate http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...33742 on ebay. im not sure if it will work.

Post by **fiznat** » Mon Oct 06, 2003 4:09 pm

I think you can drill the return hole without taking the pan off... or at least I've read about a bunch of people doing it. The general idea is that if you go slowly, cover your bit with some oil/grease, and possibly use a magnatized setup, you shouldnt have too much trouble with shavings. Change the oil a couple times if you want to make sure to flush things out afterwards, and I think you'd be fine. Those oil pan bolts are no joke.

Website · Post by **daniel240** » Mon Oct 06, 2003 4:09 pm

the oil pan is very easy to get off though isnt it just a few bolts? if its easy then theres no reason not to take it off just to be safe. also it would be a lot easier to weld.

Post by **Nathan** » Mon Oct 06, 2003 4:09 pm

If by a few you mean about 12, then yes

It's really easy to take off when you have the engine out...but a ***** when it's in so I've heard.

Post by **solarex** » Mon Oct 06, 2003 4:09 pm

huguetpj wrote:The oil pan is fine. Just weld whatever it is you will be welding, high enough. I myself used a 90 degree elbow bend for 5/8" hose. Have some pics, but still need the webspace to upload them.

email me; i'll hook u up with webspace.

Post by **huguetpj** » Mon Oct 06, 2003 4:09 pm

daniel240 wrote:the oil pan is very easy to get off though isnt it just a few bolts? if its easy then theres no reason not to take it off just to be safe. also it would be a lot easier to weld.

Yep, it's a pain to weld the top part of the flange or whatever you are using when the oil pan is on.

In this picture you can see the 90° elbow I soldered to the pan. Actually there was already a nut welded on, but I though that if I screwed a fitting into this but, I would restrict the flow of oil too much. See that the top part isn't welded yet, we had to remove the pan to weld the upper part.

Website · Post by **daniel240** » Mon Oct 06, 2003 4:09 pm

i was reading in sport compact mag. when they did a turbo 240 they drilled into the block and tapped some threads in it and just screwed the fitting in. i would just be worried about getting shavings inside.

Website · Post by **daniel240** » Mon Oct 06, 2003 4:09 pm

erich wrote:I made my oil lines out of $5 of 1/4 inch brake hardline. It would be difficult to run the line with the engine still in the car though.

hey eirch, how did you do this exactly and where did you get everything. i looked at a couple autoparts stores but didnt really find anything. im really interested in this because i dont really want to spend over $100 on oil lines

Post by **Nathan** » Mon Oct 06, 2003 4:09 pm

for some nice premade lines check with http://www.import-autoperformance.com they are nice looking and include the flanges and everything. Of course, the brake hardline idea is cool too! I just think it's more hassle than it's worth to me

How much did it cost you total erich?

Post by **erich** » Mon Oct 06, 2003 4:09 pm

I bought a 6 foot section of 1/4 btake line at the auto parts store. I had the spring type slip on tubing bender already. I took out the oil filter riser, removed the second plug and retapped it for 1/8NPT. Put in a right angle flare fitting and bent the brake line so that it went under the intake runners and came out next to the throttle body. I ran it across the front of the motor where the wires when and then over to the turbo. I shortened the line (becuase there was about a foot extra or so) and I put a flared then end and put another right angle flare fitting in the turbo oil feed and threaded it in. With the motor on a hoist it took about 30 minutes. If you look at the engine bay pictures you can see the oil feed line a little on the front of then engine. I tywrapped the oil and water lines for the turbo together.

Post by **rco8786** » Mon Oct 06, 2003 4:09 pm

My motor is staying in during the boosting...so I guess I'm going w/ an oil line kit.

How long should I buy the tubes? jgstools has a 36" and a 48" i think..would I be ok w/ 36?

Post by **SloS13** » Mon Oct 06, 2003 4:09 pm

I made a distribution block which is near the TB. The distribution block is fed by brake line, then splits to:1. dummy light2. autometer sender3. turbo feed (ss braided line)

I tapped my oil pan on the car1. Drill a pilot hole, allowing the natural shape of the bit to draw out 95% of the shavings

2. Used a UniBit to enlarge the hole

3. Used 2 cans of carb cleaner to push any shavings in the pan toward the drain plug.

4. Ran 8 quarts of cheap oil through the motor

5. replaced drain plug, cleaned oil container thoroughly

6. put in 4 quarts cheap oil, ran car for a couple minutes, drained the oil. saw metal flakes in oil

blah blah blah did this 3 more times, then waited 2 days then changed the oil again. looks great

waited 2-3 more days and changed the oil, putting good oil in it

Website · Post by **daniel240** » Mon Oct 06, 2003 4:09 pm

i wouldnt think that the oil pan would be thick enough to tap threads into. but i guess if you did it and it worked, then i will try it. were did you find all the fittings and stuff to screw in the brake lines into the turbo and stuff?

Post by **SloS13** » Mon Oct 06, 2003 4:09 pm

advance auto parts, NAPA, autozone. they'll have a toolbox type of thing FULL of brass parts. They'll also have many different widths and lengths of brake lines.

Website · Post by **daniel240** » Mon Oct 06, 2003 4:09 pm

yea im going to try to go that route. i dont want to spend $130 on a kit.

Post by **Nathan** » Mon Oct 06, 2003 4:09 pm

Only 100 shipped from http://www.import-autopeformance.com last I spoke to Marc

Website · Post by **daniel240** » Mon Oct 06, 2003 4:09 pm

they told me 130 for the kit. o well, i still dont want to pay that, im going to try to do the brake line thing.

Post by **erich** » Mon Oct 06, 2003 4:09 pm

Don't forget to get a tubing bender. You don't want to kink the line. I had good luck with the spring type.

Post by **SloS13** » Mon Oct 06, 2003 4:09 pm

how about $75.99?

http://www.turbo-performance.com/index1.htm

wait for the ghey intro to load, then click the pic, then choose 'Products', then 'oil line kits'

Post by **zachosz** » Mon Oct 06, 2003 4:09 pm

I heard mixed things on the Deltagates, also another cheap wastegate you might want to consider is the Audi 5000CS Turbo wastegates (YES, they are external!) I don't know of how high the quality is on those but you can have them on ebay for about $60-$70. IMO invest the $$$ and get the Tial, the wastegate is not something you want to go cheap on.

As for the oil lines, they can be put together piece by piece i guess, a bit of a headache but probably a lot cheaper.

Post by **Nathan** » Mon Oct 06, 2003 4:09 pm

After taking apart my Deltagate and looking over it real nice like, I just can't tell what part of it is supposedly not good...it's quite nice quality! I'll just have to see how it works in real life, a boost spike isn't going to kill the engine

Website · Post by **daniel240** » Mon Oct 06, 2003 4:09 pm

the cheapest 35mm tial wastegate i have found was $140. is this good price or anyone know of a better priced one?

wastegate and oil line Questions???

wastegate and oil line Questions???

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