w00t! I bought an SDS today...

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
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float_6969
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It should ship monday, so I should have it next week. I'm pretty excited. I sold my Power FC to Gore. The SDS has Nitrous retard and it looked like it was easier to program. I only even turned the Power FC on once. It looked pretty cool, but switching back and forth between the screen to modify stuff and the screen to watch stuff was kind of a pain, plus I couldn't retard the timing based on boost, and there wasn't any nitrous retard. I'll have to get some misc stuff like magnets, relays, and solenoids for the SDS, but that's not too big of a deal. Considering what I paid for it ($800), I'm not complaining AT ALL!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...01194


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float_6969 wrote:It should ship monday, so I should have it next week. I'm pretty excited. I sold my Power FC to Gore. The SDS has Nitrous retard and it looked like it was easier to program. I only even turned the Power FC on once. It looked pretty cool, but switching back and forth between the screen to modify stuff and the screen to watch stuff was kind of a pain, plus I couldn't retard the timing based on boost, and there wasn't any nitrous retard. I'll have to get some misc stuff like magnets, relays, and solenoids for the SDS, but that's not too big of a deal. Considering what I paid for it ($800), I'm not complaining AT ALL!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...01194
Excellent find!

Dee

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float_6969
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I thought so. Did you get my email? I figured you'd be the guy to help me out with my missing parts.

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Looneybomber
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Hell ya! Get everything all put back together, I am ready to drive it! Without the nitrous though.

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rico05
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Keep us posted and make a How To. I am getting a second job for the summer. My goal is a stand alone by August or bust! I don't care how much blood I have to donate and how much crap I have to go through: The ECCS is Satan's gift to Nissans.

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Doesnt really need a how to. It's pretty straight forward. SDS's website also has some good info on installing it.

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float_6969
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rico05 wrote:...The ECCS is Satan's gift to Nissans.
I couldn't agree more...

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ive got a few local tuners trying to talk me into letting them experiment on my car with a honda ECU setup. they say it can do boost maps , nitrous retard, and anything the SDS can do. if its free and they wont blow up my car i might just let them .

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8ggalant
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so you u got it from that guy from dragva/zilvia...thats awesome man congrats

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float_6969
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Yea, I think it's his. I tried emailing him directly about it, but I never got any response, so I ended up just doing it through ebay (kinda, he just ended the bidding early for me). He said it shipped this morning, so I should have it this week. I'm pretty excited. I'm waiting on some silicone couplers so I can get the car home and then pull all the stock Nissan crap off. That should all be up for sale this week. 2 friggin couplers. I can't drive the car because of 2 friggin couplers. Pisses me off....

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where did you get them from ?

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float_6969
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eGhey. I got them today though and drove the car home tonight.

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awesome

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Not_a_sr wrote:ive got a few local tuners trying to talk me into letting them experiment on my car with a honda ECU setup. they say it can do boost maps , nitrous retard, and anything the SDS can do. if its free and they wont blow up my car i might just let them .
I was thinking of doing this to my friend's 240. The olny problem is that he went with CA and they have coil packs. I would have to get a K-series ECU and buy k-pro. The only problem is that K-pro is $900 plus the ECU. You see the price is around other stand-alones.

float_6969, Congrats on the stand-alone. You tuning it yourself?

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yea, I plan on it.

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GoofyATX240 wrote:Doesnt really need a how to. It's pretty straight forward. SDS's website also has some good info on installing it.
I was under the impression that you had to build your own harness and that there is no plug and play CA harness available. That is the How To I would like to see.

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thats what turns me off from SDS and most other standalones.. have to replace all the (more or less) prefectly good OEM sensors for cam/crank/whatever timing etc... and rig up specially modified pullies and such to do it.. I wouldn't want to have to trust that sort of stuff to a daily driven car..

not to say others haven't done it w/o problems (altho others HAVE with problems)

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biosehnsucht wrote:thats what turns me off from SDS and most other standalones.. have to replace all the (more or less) prefectly good OEM sensors for cam/crank/whatever timing etc... and rig up specially modified pullies and such to do it.. I wouldn't want to have to trust that sort of stuff to a daily driven car..

not to say others haven't done it w/o problems (altho others HAVE with problems)
Honsetly, it matters the quality of the work. If you start cutting corners, you will have problems. People get into trouble with wiring and half-assing it. It is do it right, it should be better then stock.

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Turbogixxer wrote:Honsetly, it matters the quality of the work. If you start cutting corners, you will have problems. People get into trouble with wiring and half-assing it. It is do it right, it should be better then stock.
I've got to agree with you 100% here. I'm quite anal about, well everything, and especially when it comes to wiring. But I have, on multiple occasions, been told that my wiring jobs look factory. I pride myself on that and I know that I've got a very good grasp on the wiring aspect of it. I read the entire manual last night and, as the name implies, the entire system is quite simple. Making the bracket for the Hall sensor and mountin the mangnets should be the only hard part, and I'm not too worried about that either.

I did have a new development yesterday though. When I pulled the cover off of the unit to get the serial # so I could get some info about it from SDS I found some corrosion on the circut board. I cleaned it up really well and when I put power to it yesterday, it seemed to work OK. I obviously don't have everything hooked up, but I may have to send it off to have them check it out. We'll see what happens...

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It's really not that hard to mate everything up with other sensors unless you're extremely lazy. Like someone else mentioned it can only work as good as the person programming/installing it.

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biosehnsucht wrote:thats what turns me off from SDS and most other standalones.. have to replace all the (more or less) prefectly good OEM sensors for cam/crank/whatever timing etc... and rig up specially modified pullies and such to do it.. I wouldn't want to have to trust that sort of stuff to a daily driven car..

not to say others haven't done it w/o problems (altho others HAVE with problems)
Seeing that CA18DET has been in existence for over 20 years, an update in engine management wouldn't hurt at all. And seeing that everyone and his moma is having problems with electrical dramas up to and including those trustworthy (yeah right) factory sensors, for the amount of headaches, lost time at work, sleepless nights, etc, etc, for a few extra dollars, you'd be surprised as to what a fine standalone system can do. And to those who are in emissions-based environments, this would make a perfect system for you.

The ability to control ignition timing, fuel and most parameters is a needed thing especially when your car is sayyyy 'running too rich and you need to lean the hell out of it'. The SDS system is one of the few that does not incorporate nissan's beloved crank angle sensor which to me is a demon in disguise that will give you issues without prompting a code.

But then again, it's your money, your car and you're free to do whatever you think will assist you in achieving your goals. BTW, my woman's sentra has a A/C and P/S and it fast idles just as good as any normal OEM set-up. So it's all about who's installing and what they want out of it; oh yeah, and how much you know about what you're messing with.
float_6969 wrote:
I've got to agree with you 100% here. I'm quite anal about, well everything, and especially when it comes to wiring. But I have, on multiple occasions, been told that my wiring jobs look factory. I pride myself on that and I know that I've got a very good grasp on the wiring aspect of it. I read the entire manual last night and, as the name implies, the entire system is quite simple. Making the bracket for the Hall sensor and mountin the mangnets should be the only hard part, and I'm not too worried about that either.

I did have a new development yesterday though. When I pulled the cover off of the unit to get the serial # so I could get some info about it from SDS I found some corrosion on the circut board. I cleaned it up really well and when I put power to it yesterday, it seemed to work OK. I obviously don't have everything hooked up, but I may have to send it off to have them check it out. We'll see what happens...
And Ryan, corrosion inside your ecu is bad. I would send it to racetec and have them check it before you decide to play. Or install everything and see if it would crank. And BTW, those magnets are very fun to put in . Remember position, position, position.

Dee


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Dee, it's going back next week. I'm also going to have them upgrade the chip so that i've got the new O2 logging and nitrous retard options. They also told me what pins are for what options, so i've just got to run some extra wires in the injector harness for my knock sensing, fast idle, and fan control. they also told me which pin to wire on the main harness for the nitrous retard.

Do you have any picks that you can send me of your Hall sensor mount? I'm trying to figure out where to put it. I looks like it would be stronger on the intake side of the motor, but I'm worried about electrical interference from the alternator.

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The hall sensor/bracket should be mounted below your alternator and mounted between the two blots that are close to each other on your oil pump. As for pics I used to have some on NICO, but they are gone. I don't have any new ones right now, but I will soon.

Dee

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I guess when half of the crap sensors go away, it isn't really all that hard to do. My harness right now needs a clean up. I did a bit of that today, but it still looks nasty. I smell a summer break project so when I sell it all, whoever gets it won't have to deal with the crap I have had to on this supposedly "perfect" harness.

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boost_boy wrote:The hall sensor/bracket should be mounted below your alternator and mounted between the two blots that are close to each other on your oil pump. As for pics I used to have some on NICO, but they are gone. I don't have any new ones right now, but I will soon.

Dee
Thanks Dee, that helps. I'll take a look at it here in a bit to see where you're talking about.

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So have you got your SDS back yet? I'm anxious to see your car running.

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float_6969
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No, I haven't had a chance to mail it back yet. It's boxed up, and I've had it with me the last couple of days, but I haven't been able to get to the post office. I'm gonna try and do it in the morning.

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Come on man! I'm going to end up being on 2 wheels before you're out there sideways on 4.

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It went into the mail on Friday. I'm hoping to have it back next week. I'll start pulling all the old stuff out and start moving the intercooler back. I've still got more lag than I want (though much less than before) so I'm gonna get a smaller intercooler and move the intercooler to right infront of the radiator.

Dee-What, I can't see where there is room on the RWD CA to put the bracket there. What about using the 2 front bolts for the spot where the AC goes? There's a lot more room there. I'd never be able to put my AC back in though, so that kinda sucks....

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There's enough room there for the bracket to fit. At least mine fit.


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