Advanced Engine Breathing systems..... yes, I've looked into that. I have a customer who is planning to install that same kit to his 350Z I had previously put the Stage 4 Stillen kit on (supercharger/heat exhanger, just came out). I installed the Nismo R-Tune LSD with Central 20 Japan gears 3.9 on that car as well. Its already sick, it should be just plain wicked when that is all done.

As for the duals, the idea was brought up for side exit as well. Oh, and yes, no fart cans. If the pipes go out the back, they will get factory 350Z/G35 tips. Coffee cans suck!

So, Side exit....or....rear?

Oh, and by the way, we arent using the stock G35/350Z headers....we will be using modified Titan headers (each port is about 10% larger as are the pipes). Later, my customer may installed aftermarket headers, but for the time being, these will do just fine.

Side exits would be the hotness and would save you the trouble of circumnavigating the gas tank...

Somebody on here had an S14 with a kit on it that made the exhaust come out through where the liscence plate goes. Might look good on an S13, but my vote is definately for rear exitting pipes. Do it to it!

I think i know who you are talking about. His name was Safa. He lives in NC in the greensboro/charlotte area. Turned out really nice.

Anyways awesome project man.. Just got done reading it all and i have to say....AMAZING...Can't wait to see this thing run..

Good luck!!

Hows about an x pipe with dumps or sidepipes?

sbird1 wrote:Somebody on here had an S14 with a kit on it that made the exhaust come out through where the liscence plate goes. Might look good on an S13, but my vote is definately for rear exitting pipes. Do it to it!

Yeah, but Safa's car is a full-blown race car with a fuel cell and no gas tank... On this car (assuming its going to be a street car), side exits FTMFW!!

Hey gang, got the BCM installed today, mounted the DLC connection and rerouted all the wiring. Its looking really clean. I have pictures on the digital camera in my pocket....too bad there's no USB cable here at work to hook it up.

Pics will be up tonight.

Later!

Mark

i will be here....waiting for them.

OK gang, the new pics I promised.

I'll just cut right to the chase......



The wiring harness has been finalized. All wires taped up and routed where they need to go. Compare these two pics to the ones from earlier.



A pic of the wires from the drivers side of the engine bay. Notice I haven't installed the wiring harness to bulkhead ruber cover....thats because this harness is 3 times as big as the stock 240sx harness. Im having to use the 350Z one, not on there yet.



A pic of the ECM stashed away in the stock 240 location. Yeap, its tight, but it fits. Notice the M72 connector (white) just infront of the BCM. That houses much of the wires the F3 connector holds on an S14. Maybe this would be easier in that car????



You are looking from the floorboard, up into where the glovebox goes. That black box cramed in there is the BCM (Body Control Module). The BCM houses the remote control system, the NATS (Nissan Anti-Theft System) and all the body functions (door locks, windows, auto lights, Tire Pressure Monitor System, Interior lights, etc.). It is secured in the dash, just below the passenger side vent. If you open the passenger door and touch the dash normally hidden when the door closes, that is the part it is attached to.



All tucked it, glove box in and....wait, whats that? Yeap, that's the DLC connector poking out from the side of the console.



Remember that messy shifter situation? All done.



A side view of the shifter. Bone stock eh?



Consult II pics!!! This is the begining screen when Consult is hooked to your vehicle. It shows a subsystem selection (ENGINE) or START (NISSAN BASED VEHICLE). This is what I am selecting. If I touch ENGINE, it will only call up the ECM, but if I select this, it will bring up any computer with CAN lines in the car. The selection below this START (X-BADGE VEHICLE) is for Renault....a european function we do not use here in the states. Yeap, Nissan owns them too.



System Call once again.



And there it is, the two operating systems in the car. ENGINE (ECM), and BCM. Notice the DLC connection from the Consult II connected to the DLC in the console. Perfect fit!



Look close enough and you can see some of the systems the BCM controls. Multi Remote Control Entrance is one of them. If I installed the Remote Antenna to this car, it could use factory remotes. Which means with an auto hatch release, that could be controlled too. Maybe in the future.



Vehicle Configuration. I can set up this BCM to work with the model years 03 thru 06.



DTC results from the BCM.....ugghhh. CAN COMM CIR is for the systems missing (Unified Meter...or gauges, not hooked up) and VEHICLE SPEED SIG ERR (no speed signal because the 350Z uses the ABS system to generate a speed signal, not a speed sensor in the trans....cause there isn't one).



More systems the BCM controls. Notice the Tire Pressure Monitor System....yeap, if I wanted to, I could install that antenna as well and put pressure sensors in the wheels. For you racing guys, this is a wonderfull tool.



A look at what the sensors show on the consult. They show 0.00 psi now because they are not installed or initialized.

The white connector down there that isnt hooked up. That goes to the NATS antenna amp. A ring with a transmitter that goes around the ignition cylander. Once that is in place, all I have to do is program that new key you see above and crank this baby up!!! The little yellow bulb is the Security light, I have to install this to the dash. I just added it cause it was simple.

Hope you like this stuff guys. Later gang!
Modified by SpecDRacing at 6:03 PM 12/7/2006

Can you give us an ETA of a startup? Maybe a video?

I mentioned a key in my last post. Forgot to post the pics.



The key on the left, as we all know, is the stock S13 240SX key. The one of the right is for the late model year 2003 thru 2005 350Z (will also work in the G35). If you see all the scratches on the new key, that is because the new keys are thicker than the old ones. They are obviously longer with a more pointed edge. I had to file this key to make it thinner and remove the longer tip (approx 1.5mm). It works fine now.

That key on the right will need to be registered in the BCM I installed in order for the ECM to function. Without the key, the NATS antenna amp and the BCM, the ECM will not allow the coils to fire. A resistance is read from the key by the NATS antenna amp, that resistance is then stored in the BCM to identify the key and match it to that particular vehicle. All this is done by registering the key to the BCM with the Consult II and the use of the ASSIST (Nissans main computer...not consult). Once the BCM sees a key it recognizes (up to 5 may be stored), it will send a digitial signal to the ECM telling it everyhing is a go, then the ECM will function.

As for an estimate of when it will fire up. Im waiting on the NATS amp to get here. Just ordered that today. I also have some fab work to do. I need to fab the exhaust manifolds, the transmission mount (the real one, I have a moc-up in the vehicle), fill the tranny with oil, design and build the exhaust and finaly fab the driveshaft. Once all that is done it will be on its way down the road.

I'd say sometime soon.....could be tomorrow all the way up to two weeks from now. Soon.
Modified by SpecDRacing at 6:39 PM 12/7/2006

A video...oh yeah, that was planned on since the begining. Rather than just a cranking and vroom vroom, I told my manager (this is his sons car) that I will videotape this thing cranking up, rolling out the door and doing some donoughts in the parking lot. Will that do?

Sequence of events:

Crank engine, show it running, shut the hood, hop in the car (me, not filming), back it up, burn it out!

Maybe another video from the passenger seat on the freeway.

Later guys.

so are you a nissan tech? or do you just have lots of money to blow on the factory diagnostic tools?

ca18datsun510 wrote:so are you a nissan tech? or do you just have lots of money to blow on the factory diagnostic tools?

he works at a shop, it is most likely supplied for him. BTW that video is going to be great can't wait to see it.

DMan II-40 wrote:
he works at a shop, it is most likely supplied for him. BTW that video is going to be great can't wait to see it.

Video?!?!?!?!?!? That will be so badass!!!! This is one of the more interesting swaps I've ever seen. Mad kudos to you SpecDRacing Mad Kudos

redtop91 wrote:
Video?!?!?!?!?!? That will be so badass!!!! This is one of the more interesting swaps I've ever seen. Mad kudos to you SpecDRacing Mad Kudos

+1 to that... this is gona be sickkk!!

DMan II-40 wrote:
he works at a shop, it is most likely supplied for him. BTW that video is going to be great can't wait to see it.

most shops have universal scan tools, not oem equipment. its more cost affective.

Lookin good!

Yes, to everyone. I became a technician for Infiniti about 6 years ago. I am now working for a Nissan dealer. The cars are cheaper, not built as well and dont look as cool, but they are still great cars (even if most of them are no longer built in Japan). I have been working on Mazda RX-7's and NIssan SX/ZX/Z cars for about 10 years now. I prefer Infiniti vehicles, but then again, the new GT-R will have a nissan badge. Do expect a wicked infinti to come from that though.

Later gang, and again, thanks for the support!

Mark
Modified by SpecDRacing at 7:48 AM 12/10/2006

Hey gang,

Just another step complete. I registered the new key to the BCM today. Finally, a piece of confirmation that this thing will run. I still have to install the antenna and the drivers side exhaust manifold. The intake manifolds should be here today.

To do today:

Tap fuel rail for a return lineInstalled intake manifoldsCut driver side exhaust manifold for fitment.Install antenna amp to ignition cylander.

Oh, and once that is done, we can test run it!

Drivehshaft still not in yet. Once all the above is done, more pics will be posted.

very much looking forward to this!

keep up the good work and thanks for the updates!

If ur keeping it sleeper have the exhaust thru the rear.

SpecDRacing wrote:Oh, and once that is done, we can test run it!

Ahhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!! The Beast Awakens!!!!!!!!!! Do post a video

Ok guys, a few not so interesting pics, but in any case, here's a few more.



The relocated clutch lines. I will need to put the bracket it that supports the line to the slave cylander.



Ok, so the exhaust will wiggle in, but will need to be recut and a downpipe or flange welded in.



A look from the rear, you can see how far down the trans sits. It will sit slightly higher once finished as I made a new rubber mount that needs to be installed.



Fuel rails tapped with 5/16 barbs and fuel lines are run. The fuel pressure regulator is from the stock 240sx. It will work just fine. I located it off the engine for two reasons...one, it wont fit under the manifold and two, if we decide to upgrade, its already plumbed.



A closer look at the stock regulator. I cut the fuel rail and installed a barb to where the rail would have been. It's not as pretty as an aftermarket unit, but...this one will mount to the manifold and works, so problem solved.



Remember I said this block had been hydrolocked? Well, this is the rod I pulled out of it. I figured I'd post a pic so you guys can see what a cold air intake will do in the rain. This rod was jammed against the crank hendering it's ability to turn. All that was fixed during the rebuild (obviously).

Hope you guys like it!

Oh, and we ran a compression test on the block. It was cold and the internals have been replaced, but they still came out great. Ranging from 165-180. I'm sure once the engine is warmed up and has a few miles on it, that will steady out. So far, so good.

why'd your keep that step box for the clutch hydraulics?

awesome build btw.

why this over an ls1?

Get rid of that janky clutch dampener, it does nothing good for 1/4mile times.It also reeks havock on performance clutches.

Anyone want to spot me $7000 so I can afford to get this swap for my s13?

I agree, the dampener is a total waste of material, but in normal operating condition, it works wonders in stop and go traffic. Especially when the pressure plate is exceptionaly stronger than the origional one. If it starts to leak (like they all do), or my customer wants me to, I will remove it. I personally like them for city driving. If I were racing this, it would have a very short braided line to the stock steel tubing.

Got the upper manifold and air flow meter in today. The parts yard forgot to send the lower, so it should be here tomorrow. I used an AFM from a 2003 G35 sedan. It has a completely different connection, but relays the exact same information to the ecm. So that was spliced in and wired up. Once the lower manifold shows, we should be able to test run the motor.

The two wires sticking out of the fuel pump assembly are the fuel temperature sending unit wires. The black is ground (go figure...) and the brown is the signal. Basicaly ground the sensor and run a wire for the signal to the M72 connector (white plug at ECM). This will eliminate one of the DTC's I have. The fuel level signal will be tapped into and run with the FTT wires to M72 as well. This will eliminate that DTC as well. I really only need the FTT wired in but both will help clean up the DTC list. Without the FTT, the vehicle will see -49 degrees for a fuel temp, and honestly, I dont know what that will do to the tunning, but I think it might lean it out.



This is the back of the tachometer. I have circled the adjuster in red (paint is great for quick and ugly). Basically use do the same things Fred had mentioned for his S14. Attach 12V to the screw marked IGN, ground the screw marked GND and attach your tach signal wire to the screw marked SIG (no screws installed in this pic). Once you've done that, just hook up a voltmeter with a tach built in or in my case, the Consult II and watch the tach signal. Turn this adjusting screw untill the revs from the tach match the ones on the Consult (meter, aftermarket tach, etc). Make sure they match at all rpms. Once thats done, reinstall the tach to the meter assembly and install to dash.

Later

Later
Modified by SpecDRacing at 6:21 PM 12/13/2006