VH45DE to Z32 Complete Wiring Integration Document

Discuss topics related to the VH41DE, VH45DE, VK45DE, and VK56DE engines.
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T45
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Car: King Kong powered Z32

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npez wrote:I think I have all of the wires worked out except for 2.

1. Has anyone used the cranking signal wire (it is the Black/Yellow wire in the M95 connector in the foot well) when hooking their wiring up? I don't see a destination on the Q45 harness.

2. The Yellow/Blue wire that the FSM on the Z calls neutral switch; is this the clutch interlock circuit (that's what it looks like)? It seems that when the switch is closed it goes to ground. On the Q there is a Park/Neutral Position relay with a Gray wire and a Blue wire. Do one of these wires need to be grounded to signify a Neutral or Park condition? I'm trying to determine the recipient wire to integrate the clutch interlock circuit with the Park/Neutral circuit and if that's the case it makes it easy.

If anyone has any insight to this, it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,Nick.
I can't recall anything about the starting signal.

The interlock wire does not need to be connected to anything at all. I believe that if grounded it will not allow engine to start so hooking up to the clutch interlock is possible, however, even with the interlock wire disconnected the car will still not start with the clutch out. The clutch safety runs through the switch on the pedal before going to the start relay so it's already wired up to work fine with the vh ecu. Easiest to just leave the interlock alone.

The wire on the drivers fenderwell that's labeled neutral actually goes to the transmission to indicate neutral to the ecu to allow the IAC to keep the revs up in between shifts on the V6. Not sure if one can incorporate it into the vh ecu or not. It sounds cooler when the rpm's drop fast to me so I did away with that wire....and the iac too!


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npez
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Sweet on all counts! I love it when I don't have to do anything with something. I'll just leave the wires as part of the harness and if something doesn't work right I'll deal with them. I think I'm done with my harness hurrayyy! Now if it all works that'll be a bonus

Thanks for the feedback Ben.

Nick.

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craigztoyz
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Pulled this back up to the top of topics for those looking for it. I tried to search for it too, and couldnt get it to find it.

WES,

METTLER,

can we get this Sticky'd Please. There is Critical knowledge in this document that we all need at one time or another. Thanx, Craig

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LEMHEAD16
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Main link does not work anymore! Can we host it on NICO?

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npez
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LEMHEAD16 wrote:Main link does not work anymore! Can we host it on NICO?
Link corrected. I can't host on iServe as it doesn't accept PDF! I can't send it to NICO as I need to also have access to it as if I receive comments/updates, I want to have 1 system of record so the changes to get mixed up.

Try it now though it all works.....

Thanks,Nick.

Panther in a Q45a
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tmorgan4 wrote:Nick have you seen the coolant temp sensor adapters like this one?

http://store.summitracing.com/...43215

If your radiator doesn't have a threaded port for one it and you don't feel like welding a bung into one of the tanks this is another good option.
Long time since the original message, but here is a source that is more affordable.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...91561

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LEMHEAD16
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Thanks for fixing the link

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craigztoyz
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On the wiring, I did not hook up a starting signal. works great

Did not connect the 5v? sensor wire to anything, no problems

did redo all the grounds, and add extras, have not had any issues.

I have not had the EGR hooked up, or the air bypass valve, although the other engine I have has the complete intake and am going to use it on the dyno to see if there is a difference between with and without EGR/airbypass. Even with it cold in the mornings, it has not been an issue, runs good from startup, great after a minute. Idle is never an issue. the connectors are just chillin there taped over.

I did put in a major modification to the engines wiring harness, that allows me to run it in 4 cyl mode, giving me about 6mpg better, and still willl easily accerate on the freeway to pass people. I will be having this as an option on my swaps, and the harnesses I sell. If you get a large enough aluminum radiator, and have enough air in the front, you will rarely need the cooling fans to be on.

Hope my experience helps, Craig

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SuperHatch
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npez wrote:Link corrected. I can't host on iServe as it doesn't accept PDF! I can't send it to NICO as I need to also have access to it as if I receive comments/updates, I want to have 1 system of record so the changes to get mixed up.

Try it now though it all works.....

Thanks,Nick.
Nick,

I'd be happy to host the PDF on my site. Just email any time you have an updated version and I'll change it within a day or so.

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SuperHatch
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craigztoyz wrote:On the wiring, I did not hook up a starting signal. works great

Did not connect the 5v? sensor wire to anything, no problems

did redo all the grounds, and add extras, have not had any issues.

I have not had the EGR hooked up, or the air bypass valve, although the other engine I have has the complete intake and am going to use it on the dyno to see if there is a difference between with and without EGR/airbypass. Even with it cold in the mornings, it has not been an issue, runs good from startup, great after a minute. Idle is never an issue. the connectors are just chillin there taped over.

I did put in a major modification to the engines wiring harness, that allows me to run it in 4 cyl mode, giving me about 6mpg better, and still willl easily accerate on the freeway to pass people. I will be having this as an option on my swaps, and the harnesses I sell. If you get a large enough aluminum radiator, and have enough air in the front, you will rarely need the cooling fans to be on.

Hope my experience helps, Craig


Cut power to one of the power transistors?

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Carl H
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i'd imagine it would consist of killing off 4 of the injectors, else it would bore wash the hell out of the engine.also how are you going to deal with engine wear...this was a problem on the older cadilacs (i think) that had primitive displacement on demand...it would cut off the same 4 cylinders and it would wear the engine prematurely due to the pistons still acting as an air pump and not having combustion press the rings against the wall; bores got torn up and thus engines worn.

*edit*here is a link discribing how chrystler did it, using electromechanical means...very cool stuff indeed.http://www.allpar.com/mopar/new-mopar-hemi.html

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npez
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SuperHatch wrote:
Nick,

I'd be happy to host the PDF on my site. Just email any time you have an updated version and I'll change it within a day or so.
Thanks for the offer Steve. The problem I had is I retired one of our servers (I have a side business that requires several servers in a data-center rack we're leasing) and forgot to move the file from that one to another. I've fixed it now so it shouldn't be a problem any more.

Thanks again,Nick.

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SuperHatch
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Carl H wrote:i'd imagine it would consist of killing off 4 of the injectors, else it would bore wash the hell out of the engine.also how are you going to deal with engine wear...this was a problem on the older cadilacs (i think) that had primitive displacement on demand...it would cut off the same 4 cylinders and it would wear the engine prematurely due to the pistons still acting as an air pump and not having combustion press the rings against the wall; bores got torn up and thus engines worn.

*edit*here is a link discribing how chrystler did it, using electromechanical means...very cool stuff indeed.http://www.allpar.com/mopar/new-mopar-hemi.html
Thats exactly what I was getting at. The injectors are all powered off of the same power source, so putting in a simple switch to cut power to 4 isn't "simple" but can be done without too much trouble. The PTUs are powered independently but like you said, cutting power to one will wash out half the rings over time, not to mention the harmonics issues since this engine, as with most V8s, doesnt fire even-odd-even-odd.

I can't think of any other wiring harness mod that involves adding a switch that will randomly deactivate cylinders, but I guess I'm missing something.

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Carl H
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the real trick would be to deactivate cylinders so that the engine still fires right, only way to do this would be to have a computer control that without user intervention...even then you still have the air pump problem.making up an interceptor to do this isnt terribly hard but again the trick is the air pump problem.

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Chrispy300
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Bumpity!

I can't download the pdf anymore Want's a password...

Fix or e-mail please?

Chris.

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npez
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Chrispy300 wrote:Bumpity!

I can't download the pdf anymore Want's a password...

Fix or e-mail please?

Chris.
Sorry - had it in my staging environment which was subsequently secured. I've updated the link and it works now.....

Thanks & Happy New Year,Nick.

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Chrispy300
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Thanks a heap Nick, makes it a walk in the park

If your ever in Aus I'll shout you a beer or 10

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SuperHatch
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Nick,

Thanks again for this, I'll be taking a good look at it this week!

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npez
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Thanks guys - I'm glad it helps out.... Steve got your voicemail and plan to call you back over the weekend - currently wrapping up a home remodel which has gone over by 2 weeks

Nick.

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SuperHatch
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npez wrote:Thanks guys - I'm glad it helps out.... Steve got your voicemail and plan to call you back over the weekend - currently wrapping up a home remodel which has gone over by 2 weeks

Nick.
No problem, no rush. I'm just trying to straighten out my PS setup and had a couple questions on the wiring. Besides that I'm almost up and running.

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npez
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IMPORTANT UPDATE:If you used version 2.5 of this document to build your harness, please download version 2.6 now as there were a couple of errors that have been corrected in this version. Thanks. Version 2.6 has been tested from start to finish with superhatch on his car and proves completely functional after the corrections identified were made. Thanks Stephen for your feedback and being patient as we worked through the issues on the phone.

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KingNub
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why isnt this a sticky?also something like this for s chassis would be awesome and appreciated X_Xalso awesome write up kudos and such

rogue240sx
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I realize this is a long shot but does anyone have this document. The link is broken.

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Ba11erz
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2nd.

Link still no workie.

Is there somewhere else to download this document? Thx.

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fluffybunny
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3rd.

I am currently working on one right now, but I'd prefer to use a guide that has experienced successful integration between the two systems.
Otherwise, I'll probably be making the same mistakes they did and have to perform several iterations before the product is perfected, which I'd rather not do.

91sc450zx
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can anyone direct me to where I can find a version of this document that works. Thanks

str8sikk
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can someone please host this document again its not working anymore

spdrmn15
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As already asked, does anyone have a saved copy of this?

david.fryklind
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Same here, would appreciate if anyone ha got this and can share it :)

david.fryklind
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If i was added to the VH45DE facebook group i would be able to share it there :naughty:

Aside from that i recieved an email from a NICO member with the guide but nowhere to host it :frown:


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