what would it take to make an N/A into a TT? id hav to replace clutch obviously and get the turbo's and hosing/intercoolers. are N/A electronics sufficient? would i have to swap out the ECU. probably the spark plugs/ignition and wires

is there something im missing? or something i got wrong? the help is really appreciated guys! thanks!

is this really a dumb question or am i really that not likeable?

Im new to the site but I would guess that you would need to replace the basics then find any intercooler kit, you would also need intake and exhaust manifolds, then down pipe just to list a few

CAN BE DONE !! but best bang for the buck is twin turbo hands down but you can spend thousands $$$ and months collecting all the goodies and making all the mods to convert an NA to TT, but the best way is to remote mount the turbo's out back it has many advantages over conventional under hood installation the biggest benefit is removing the source of all the heat that kills the engine prematurely the engine doesn't know or care where all that heavily compressed intake charge is coming from. the 2nd benefit is you don't have to piss around changing the AC compressor PS pump rad mounts and rad etc. etc etc. Just rebuild your NA to TT specs they are essentially the same motor except for a few heavier duty parts and better flowing heads low compression pistons you should use TT pistons with wrist pins and oil pump and heads. you can use your NA ECU as long as you have a after market boost controler I have a build description with links and procedure I am currently working on packaging it as a kit and offering several different power levels and options.drop me a note at [email protected] and I'll enlighten you on how to achieve TT power with out the 8 grand cost Z1 motorsports wants for thier conversion

can you sstill put the turbos out back on a VG30DETT? since i dont have very deep pockets or the time and resources an NA swap is outta the question. the cheapest way i see is to just buy a JDM used VG30DETT and maybe just upgrade the turbos and duct work before i drop it in. i found a site that offers a DETT with a TT 5spd, harness and ECU. i would really only want the trans and harness, but id rather spend $2100 for that setup than around $5k to convert it basically into the same thing.

or maybe ill try dropping in a 2JZ-GTE TT >=D

If your gonna do a motor swap do it big, 2JZ or RB36. Something big

you better have pretty deep pockets for an RB swap no only is the motor itself worth a fortune in any high HP config the custom fab work to transplant it to a 300 will be retarded!!!!never mind the cost here is a link for MWS motorsports they charge about 5K plus what ever the motor and parts cost to do a TT swaphttp://www.mwsmotorsports.com/mwstv.htm

it will take you an hour to watch the video and then you will have an idea on how much work it is to actually do the swap there are so many little things that are different between a TT and a NA most guys just get so overwhelmed the just give up before they finish because they cant find all the parts or just aren't capable of doing the mods and changing the stuff out but if you have a TT you are half way there it's still a better idea to remote the turbo's out back. here is what you have to do to do the swap to make it like a factory TT my way is much easier and cheaper and can be done in installments that can be done over weekends ect your car won't be off the road for months on end.or just sell your NA come up with another say 3 grand and buy a used TT and drive it till breaks down and then build it up

it is easy to get up to $15-$20k quickly if youwant a lot of performance parts. The only way we see fit to do theconversion is to buy a wrecked TT or front clip and transfer everything into the NA being converted, buying stuffpiece by piece will take forever and become very expensive.The majority of the differences are listed below.ENGINE1. The cylinder block castings and main caps are the same. They bothhave oil squirters that direct oil towards the underside of the piston, butthey point at different angles. The oil squirters on the TT direct oilstraight into an off center hole on the underside of the TT piston, whichleads to a hollow area inside the top of the TT piston. The NA squirtersdirect the oil towards the middle of the underside of the piston, which hasno passages inside. They blocks have all of the same oil passages. Twopassages are plugged with a bolt on the NA block (one on each outsideface that feed the turbos on a TT). The TT block has two oil passagesplugged inside where the oil filter bracket mounts. The NA has two smallcheck valves in this location. They are plugged in the TT providing morepressure so that the oil will go through the lines to the oil cooler, whichreturns back to the oil pan. There are check valves on the inside of the TToil filter bracket where the oil filter screws on, but none on the NA. Thepurpose of these check valves is if the oil filter somehow becomes cloggedor collapses that oil will still circulate.2. The crankshaft is the same.3. Connecting rods ARE the same!! (Same Nissan part #)4. Piston rings and crankshaft bearings are the same.5. Of course the pistons are different because of lower compression ratioin the TT, 8.5:1 inrespect to 10.5:1 on the NA. The internal structure of the pistons is alsodifferent, the TT have a hollow ring inside the top that fills with oil forbetter cooling and a thicker dome towards the center. Oil pumps aredifferent. They mount the same and are the same internally except forthe spring for the pressure valve in the TT one is tighter so it producesmore needed pressure to circulate oil to the turbos and cooler. You canactually just change the spring to the tighter one. The 94+ NA oil pumpsand the replacement NA oil pumps from Nissan are different internally tothe older ones and the TTs. They have internal gears with larger roundedteeth.6. Oil filter bracket on a TT is different (longer) because it has an outletthat accommodates the hose going to the oil cooler. There is a springloaded valve in the bracket that will not let the oil circulate to the coolerunless there is sufficient pressure. And then there are the spring loadedball check valves that let oil bypass the oil filter if there is a problem,these are in the block on an NA. Oil filters are all the same.7. Cams, lifters, locks, retainers, and valve springs ARE the same (90-93)(same Nissan Part #) The Auto TT has different intake cams (lowerlift) but the intake cams on the 5 speed TT, NA, and auto NA are thesame. The different intake cams in the auto TT along with the slightlysmaller exhaust housings on the turbos results in 20 less HP in the autoTT (it was detuned to help the transmission last longer). All the exhaustcams are the same. The 94-95 cams were different than the 90-93 butjust like the earlier ones they are all the same except for the intake camson the auto TT. The 96 cams were ALL the same.8. The valves are all the same size. But the exhaust valves on a TT aremade from a stronger alloy (Inconnel)9. The heads are different between NA and TT. The castings are almostthe same but not quite. The intake runners are of a different design in theturbo heads. The castings offer a more open port for the TT. We haveused them interchangeably before without any problems, just probablyresults in the loss of some power, when using NA heads on a TT. It issignificant enough that it would take extensive porting to get NA headsup to TT specs. We use different spark plugs on the NA and TT but wesee them used backwards and every way in between a lot. The TT oneswe use are NGK PFR6B-11B which are slightly longer that the NA PFR6G-11. The longer plug is “colder” which helps with preventing detonation athigher boost levels.10. The oil pan is different because the TT one has 2 tubes protruding onthe sides where the oil return hoses for the turbos mount and anotherone for the hose returning from the oil cooler.11. The turbo engine obviously has a few different accessories andsystems to accommodate the turbos. The exhaust manifolds on the TTare much shorter than the NA ones, which go all the way down and tieinto the exhaust section including the catalytic converters. The turbos areoil lubricated and water cooled. So there are oil and water, supply andreturn lines everywhere on a TT motor.12. The throttle bodies are the same size but the passenger side one isdifferent on a TT simply because one of the water lines attached to thebottom of it has a junction in it to feed water to one turbo. But we usuallydo away with all that nonsense with the water lines under the plenumrunning to the TB’s in our warm climate. We just run water to and fromthe metal hoses on the back of the motor going to and from the heatercore. Nissan added all the water lines under the plenum going throughthe TB’s to warm the intake air charge in cold climates. I think theydesigned it for the NA and just didn’t change it for the TT. You do notneed this on a TT. You intercool your air to cool it down after it leaves theturbo, why try to heat it back up. Remove all the nonsense under theplenum. It makes life much easier.13. The upper and lower intake manifolds (plenums) are the same TT andNA 90-92. Newer ones are different from the earlier ones. They made thechange to the new style injectors, lower plenum, and the intake port onthe heads in 93 for the NA but not till 95 on the TT. So the lower plenumand heads on a 93 -94 NA are different than those on a 93-94 TT. Theupper plenums changed just a small bit in 94 when the angle that theflange of one of the EGR tubes bolts on to the plenum rotated about 30degrees. Just enough stuff to make interchanges a pain.14. Motor mounts are the same, but I have a secret on that. I guess I’lllet it out if you’ve read this far although I have made some moneybecause of it. The convertible motor mounts are the same butsubstantially cheaper for some reason. Motor mounts are broken intoalmost every time we pull a motor, so we go through lot of them andhave saved $.15. Head gaskets have a different part #s but appear to be the same weuse all TT ones because they are less expensive also.16. Water pump, PCV valves, exhaust gaskets, intake gaskets, plenumgaskets, valve covergaskets, seals, Timing belt, thermostat all the same.ELECTRICAL1. Nissan claimed the TT coil packs were different a couple years ago andcharged a lot more for them. I checked them and found that they werethe same and now Nissan lists them as the same. I guess they got caughton that one.2. Of course the ECU is different, along with a different transmissioncomputer on the automatics, other than that there are no control unitsthat must be changed. We can upgrade a NA ECU to upgraded TT specsfor $250 which is usually a better idea than buying a TT ECU then payingto have it upgraded later.3. The main engine (EFI) harness is different also, but a NA harness willwork in an TT, you just will not have the connections for the boost controlsolenoids which you don’t need anyway if you have a boost controller. Idon’t recommend wasting your time with the conversion if you are toocheap to buy a boost controller. If necessary we have an easy way toremove the engine harness without removing hardly anything inside thecar. There is an aluminum bracket bolted right inside the firewall thatmakes the engine harness difficult to change. The bracket is bolted inbehind the heater core and AC evaporator so it is hard to remove fromthe inside. We take a pneumatic reciprocating saw and cut the passengerside of the bracket into from inside the engine bay and then with someprying the bracket pivots around on one bolt and moves out of your way.4. If converting NA --> TT, I would leave the interior harness and gaugecluster alone. They will work with the TT setup. Get a stand alone boostgauge because the stock one sux. You would be insane to add the HICASsystem or stock electronic adjustable suspension to a NA so you will notneed the TT interior harness. I would leave all major wiring harnessesalone when doing a conversion.5. MAF, PTU, TPS, IAA, AIV, EGR, O2 sensors, Detonation sensor, Coolanttemperature sensor are all the same.6. The electrical AC Condenser fan is different on a TT. The motor hasthree wires (2 speed)going to it as opposed to two (one speed) on the NA. But you can get bywith the NA one on a conversion. The mechanical fan is the same but thefan clutch is different. The TTs have a yellow dot on the front and aretighter than the NAs with an orange dot.7. The starters are all the same.OTHER DRIVETRAIN1. If converting most people would keep the NA rear differential, becausea lot of TT ownersswitch to it anyway. It has a lower ratio (4.08 compared to 3.67) that willdecrease your top speed but enhance take off. Plus convertingdifferentials is not easy. You must change the entire rear subframebecause the differentials mount completely different. You would also haveto change the halfshafts, which have a six bolt flange on the TT wherethey bolt to the diff (compared to five on the NA) and the ends are largerdiameter where the splines go into the hubs. So the hubs are different.Since the TT has the Hicas tie rods in the rear there is an additionalsuspension arm on the NA to make up for the lack of support there.Because of the way these bolt up differently to the knuckle, the knucklesare different also, unless you press a ball joint out and somehow press ahollow bushing back in.2. As long as you keep the NA rear diff, the NA driveshaft will work. TheTT driveshaft will not work with an NA diff or vice versa. The TTdriveshaft has a CV joint at the end where it bolts to the differential andlarger U-joints. There are 6 different driveshafts for the Z: TT auto and5sp, 2s NA auto and 5sp, and 4s NA auto and 5 sp. The stock driveshaftis a 2 piece so you can mix and match combinations and usually come upwith something that will work what ever you are trying, because they willall bolt together in the middle. The center support bearings will workinterchangeably although they are listed differently and there is a littleissue about shimming one. We buy all new TT ones because they arecheaper. But the best idea is probably just to go with a one piece unitanyway. We have one piece driveshafts for any combination in stock.They are almost half the weight of the stock driveshafts. They havereplaceable U-joints (the units in the stock shafts are almost always badand can’t be replaced. And they offer better torque transfer.3. The NA and TT have the same 5 speed transmission model #, samesplines on input and output shafts, etc. and the housings are the sameexcept for one small difference. The spot where the starter mounts on thebellhousing on the TT is machined a little differently so that the starterwill properly engage the slightly larger diameter flywheel and so that theflywheel teeth won’t scrape the inside of the bellhousing. You can use anNA 5 speed in a TT but you just have to shim the starter out a little withsome flat washers and sometimes grind a little out of the inside of thebellhousing so the TT flywheel will fit inside. If trying to use a TT trans inan NA you would either have to grind down where the starter mounts sothat it could engage the smaller NA flywheel or just use the TT flywheel,which could be used with only a TT clutch. The internals are the samebetween the NA and TT 5 sp transmissions,although all the 94 + models had redesigned stronger internals. I haveused them nterchangeably without problems. The automatic transmissionis different for a TT, but the NA auto would still fit in place behind the TTengine, but probably wouldn’t last long. They are different lengths andyou would have to use the corresponding driveshaft. Both autos aregeared virtually the same but the TT one is built for heavier duty.4. The speed sensor gear in the transmission is different, different size forNA and TT because of the different ratios in the diff. So if you are using aNA diff you need a NA speed sensor gear. The speed sensor is differentauto and 5 sp also.5. The TT clutch has a larger contact face, a stronger pressure plate anda slightly larger diameter flywheel. You can use a TT flywheel in an NA byshimming out the starter but can’t use a NA flywheel in a TT withoutcutting down the spot where the starter mounts to the TT transmission.You have to use a TT clutch assembly with a TT flywheel and the samewith NA because of the way the pressure plate bolts to the flywheel. TheTTs also included a clutch booster assembly because of the strongerpressure plate. The clutch pedal and master cylinder were differentbecause of a vacuum assisted clutch booster inside the firewall. Thebooster included two plastic tanks for vacuum storage also, one under thedriver’s fender and one under the clutch master cylinder and a network ofhoses connecting them all. Because of the clutch booster, the clutch pedaland master cylinder are different between NA and TT but all the slavecylinders are the same. You don’t have to add this setup when doing aconversion (a lot of trouble) the clutch pedal will just be stiff but it’s notunbearable in my opinion.OTHER1. The Radiator and AC Condenser are MUCH different. They are muchnarrower on a TT so the intercooler piping can go around each side. Thefront lower core support is also different (but can be modified to workwith a little cutting and welding) because the TT radiator and condensermount farther down into brackets, because they are taller to make up forthe difference in width.There are some differences in the AC lines also. The upper radiator hoseon the TT is different but the lower one is the same. We often go to homedepot and buy some chrome drain pipe to replace the bottom section ofthe radiator hose which can collapse. We just splice it in with someclamps, better that paying for the Stillen solid hose and easier to workwith when removing/installing the radiator.2. When swapping the NA rear diff into the TT the best option is to doaway with all the Hicas lines, solenoid, reservoir, pws pump, etc. The NApws pump is smaller and provides less drag on the motor. Plus the TTpump has two chambers, one for the front and one for the rear. So if youeliminate the HICAS what do you want the fluid pumping back there for?Like with the return fittings Stillen supplies for their HICAS eliminationbar. You also don’t want to just disconnect all of that and still run a TTpump, because it requires lubrication in the rear chamber provided by thefluid. So if converting you would hopefully stay with the NA pws pump.The mounting brackets and bolts on the block for the PWS pump aredifferent for the TT and NA as well as the length of the bolt that thepump pivots on.3. The front steering racks look and fit exactly the same but they havedifferent gear ratios inside providing for more turn with less steeringwheel travel in the NA which doesn’t have the rear wheels to assist. But itisn’t something to change in a conversion.4. The rest of the front suspension is the same, except for shocks andsprings. The TT shocks are the 2 way adjustable units and the TT springsare more progressive, but in a conversion I would just go withaftermarket performance units on both. The TT swaybars are also stifferbut no big deal, just go aftermarket performance with that also at yourconvenience.5. The calipers and rotors are all the same size except for in 90 when theNA calipers supported a slightly thinner 26 mm widen rotor. There wasnot enough cooling capacity in that rotor so all the later NAs and all TTshad 30mm wide rotors. The calipers were all aluminum until 93 whenthey went to cast iron.6. The TT alternator is higher output (90A vs 80A) but they areinterchangeable. I don’t thinkputting a TT alternator on an NA is a bad idea.7. The AC Compressors are the same for corresponding year models.8. The TT has all of the intake/turbo/intercooler piping, intercoolers, andrecirculation valves. On an NA air goes from the intake to the throttlebodies, for a TT we go in the intake to the turbos back up front to theintercoolers and then to the throttle bodies (big difference). This can beone of the most difficult things to put on a NA, because all the bracketsthat attach it to the frame on the TT do not exist on the NA you just haveto get it in there and support it the best you can. It isn’t easy to find usedand is one of the main reasons I recommend buying an entire wrecked TTfor parts if you are trying to convert from an NA. When I have completesets of plumbing for a TT we sell them together for around $600 (minusintercoolers and turbos) which is only a fraction of what they cost new.9. The exhaust is different for the TT (every single section is different insome way). Although if you get the J-spec downpipes (which are stock inJapan in the place of our pre-cats on TT’s) an NA exhaust will bolt rightup and work fine but I recommend at least getting the performance catbackwhich with the J-spec down pipes and NA cats will be a nicereasonably free-flowing setup. The TT muffler sections have mandrel bentpiping and the NA ones do not. The TT resonator section has a smallerresonator because TTs make less noise (the turbos baffle a lot of it). Thecatalytic converters include piping that go all the way up to the manifoldson an NA or to the pre-cats on a US TT. The TT ones are shorter becausethe pre-cats come down farther. The Japanese TT catalytic convertersections and the US NA are the same, because of those nice littledownpipes that come off the turbo stock in Japan instead of therestrictive, in the way of everything, pre-cats we have in the US.10. The fuel system is also different. The fuel pump and fuel pump controlunits are differentcorresponding to the higher output TT injectors. But you can get by withthe NA pump andcontrol unit on a TT without extreme mods. The fuel rail, filter, pressureregulator, and dampenerare all the same.11. Of course the front fascia is different with the gills in the bottomcorners so air can get to the intercoolers. The fascias are completelyinterchangeable but, if converting over most just buy an aftermarketfascia (Stillen, WW, etc.), all of which will work for NA or TT. As you allknow the TT came with a stock rear spoiler.
Modified by hun t_x at 7:15 AM 5/30/2009

NOLA300ZX wrote:If your gonna do a motor swap do it big, 2JZ or RB36. Something big

ya I got big on the drawing board right now is a RHD 180 with a VK 56 V-8 with twin turbo's out back I just have two other cars to finish first

damn

damn is right. o_o. i guess this isnt gonna be something ill be doing anytime soon. RB36 would be sweet, but if the engine bay mods are described as "retarded" i dont think its the best idea for me.

if i did anything it would probably be the 2JZ-GTE twin or the VQ45 swap. ive seen LS1 conversions, but if i wanted a corvette...i would buy one of those.

FAIL!!! even more retarded than an RB swap is the far inferior 2JZ-GTE twin the VG in it's TT configuration is a 600+hp power plant detuned for the general public, it can make 500-600 hp all day long the only problem is that the supporting equipment can't take the heat!(it just bakes the wiring harness head gaskets let go and even the injectors fail to perform properly from the heat) the primary source for all that heat of all that heat is the turbo's move them out back , job done your off to the races simple !!! unless you already have a factory TT there is no reason why the turbo's have to be mounted under the hood STS has pioneered this application with some amazing results on lots of domestic and European cars but I haven't seen many jap products done but do what ever you want it's your time and money, about this time next year I should be putting the finishing touches on my 180 with dual remotes I just bought a VK56 from a wrecked 04 Titan with 60K on it for $2300 with no no ECU so I'm lookin for a good stand alone but that's a whole other forum.