So I have an 04 Maxima SE. When I bought it I did in fact buy it knowing that it had a hard start/no start condition. I did some research and found out easily changing the cam/crank sensor generally 95% of the time will in fact fix this issue . The car was in great shape and had about 145,000 miles so 500.00 bucks was a steal.. Now let's fast fwd 4 years 1 new timing chain kit replaced countless cam and crank sensors 3 new from my local scrap yard complete engine wiring harnesses and 8 (yes I said 8) ecms. 5 new bcms and 4 yrs of migraines, countless long nights 3 OBD II scanners 1 girlfriend and possibly a sec one later and I'm still no further with this POS than I was the day I went waddling and Quaking up the lil fellas driveway to purchase the car.. I do know the car will in fact start and drive if I was to unplug the Bank 1 cam sensor but it immediately sends the car into fail-safe mode and the transmission is stuck in 5th gear. Even if I was to start it and then plug the sensor back still in fail-safe. The new scanner I have does give me live feeds and I have noticed that the timing on the Bank 1 and Bank 2 intake cam timing are drastically different. As I've stated before I'm evidently not as smart as I thought I was but shouldn't these 2 cams be running somewhere close to the same timing.. Bank 2 and an idle is somewhere around 0 to -2.5 degrees. Whereas Bank 1 is always a steady 65 degrees. As I stated I'm not a smart man but imma gonna reckon these should be close. And of course I have the P0340 continuously and every now and then I'll get a P1212 and a U1001 codes. Somebody please help or send dynamite cause I'm fixing to send this car somewhere. Be it down the street or pack the trunk with enough dynamite to send it right back to Japan in one loud bank. At this point it really doesn't matter to me either way. I have added the following screens shots of the live data that shows the variable Intake timing issue. It was taken at an idle of about 825 rom I'd say.

The U1001 and P0605 are most likely artifacts of a low battery. The bank2 (front bank) reading of 0 +/- 5 degrees is normal, the bank1 (rear bank) reading indicates the sensor is flatlined. P0340 is almost exclusively caused by the sensor or wiring. The IVT Solenoid, chains, or phasers will produce different results. In any case the engine wouldn't run with 63 degrees of actual advance, so it's clearly a sensor issue. There was a recall for those cars for the cam and crank sensors, NTB03-124, but those garbage sensors have been out of circulation for a long time and the chances of getting 3 straight from a JY are slim and none. Crud on the cam reluctor can make it read inconsistently but won't flatline it. That leaves wiring, and there is a known chafing/fatigue issue with the harnesses on those cars in the vicinity of the passenger strut tower. Diagnose your problem as follows:
1) At the sensor connector, measure voltage between the Red/Green (power) and Black (ground) wire terminals with the key on and the sensor disconnected. You should see near battery voltage. If not, measure from Red/Green to the minus battery post. If that shows voltage, the Black wire is broken or disconnected from ground. If it shows no voltage, the Red/Green wire is broken or disconnected from the ECM relay. There are intervening connectors between the ends on all 3 wires, so consult the FSM and be aware that the issue could be connector pin-fit and not a broken wire.
2) Using a bulb-type test lamp, repeat the test across the R/G and B wires. It should be the same brightness as when you connect the lamp across the battery terminals. If it's dim, either the R/G or B wire has a partial break or other high-resistance problem. Repeat the test from R/G to battery negative using the lamp, if it's dim then R/G has the problem, if it's bright then B has the problem.
3) With the key on and the sensor disconnected, measure voltage between the White signal wire and the Black ground wire. White is connected to a pullup resistor inside the ECM and should read around 10V from the pullup. If it reads 0V or much less than 10V, the White wire has a break or high resistance.

I have done all these test and the only thing I initially found was low voltage Bank 1 signal (white) wire. I dug and searched and could never find where the break was so I just opted to run a new signal for Bank 1 and 2. Bank 2 had initially showed fine but my thinking at the time was "hell if the one has gave away then the other one put in at the same time could be close to doing the same". I've managed to put New IVT Solenoids in today and run some more checks and according to the FSM Bank 2 like always every test past FlYing colors. Now back to it's red-headed step brother now Bank 1 it's another story.. When checking for continuity on the harness side I get the usual chirp from the meter on the number 2 pin but num 1 doesn't chirp but it does measure resistance which seems to be strange to me.. I've checked it 3 different meters and all pull the same results...Another interesting development though my buddy was here today and he was under the car checking the crank sensor and made the comment "Hey at least you have a rebuilt tranny and don't need to worry about the valve body like in my case". I was kinda throwed off because I wasn't told that it had undergone any trans work but sure enough it's got some thing scribbled on there somewhere and the miles.. Funny thing is it has about 600 miles difference on it verses what I have on the speedo.. Now funny thing maybe but am I wrong for thinking that maybe just maybe whoever did the trans work could've fat-fingered something somewhere and that's the cause of this whole s*** show of a party just maybe ...

Jimmy2526 wrote: ↑

Sun Mar 06, 2022 8:44 pm

I've managed to put New IVT Solenoids in today and run some more checks and according to the FSM Bank 2 like always every test past FlYing colors.

Bank2 is reading normally and isn't your problem, and as I said, the solenoids aren't either. P0340 by itself without other related codes is always the sensor or wiring.

Jimmy2526 wrote: ↑

Sun Mar 06, 2022 8:44 pm

When checking for continuity on the harness side I get the usual chirp from the meter on the number 2 pin but num 1 doesn't chirp but it does measure resistance which seems to be strange to me.

Pin 1 (Black) should have almost no resistance to ground. If it does, that's your problem. The ground goes through two intermediate connectors, F301:F26 and then F58:M70, so a bad pin-fit on either one of those could be causing a problem as well as a crappy termination. If the termination isn't crappy, I'd suggest you get a pin-fit tool. The ground itself is at M80 near the ECM (see attached).

Jimmy2526 wrote: ↑

Sun Mar 06, 2022 8:44 pm

Now funny thing maybe but am I wrong for thinking that maybe just maybe whoever did the trans work could've fat-fingered something somewhere and that's the cause of this whole s*** show of a party just maybe ...

If it caused him to leave a ground loose or butch a connector, that's certainly possible.

Thanks again imma go check resistance right now

Ok checked resistance with key on and off. There is no resistance. While I was there thought I'd pull some voltage Bank 2 R/G 12.6 volts, Signal wire 2.466v,Black 12.6v. Bank 1 R/G 12.6v, Signal.....0.865v.......,Black 12.6v.. Is that normal I was under the impression that Bank 1 and 2 usually had the same voltage or close to the same up and down the spectrum as the cam is spinning..

Black needs to be 0V. The wire is open.

Well I've traced wires all day yesterday and I don't know what nor do I care in even knowing how but the harness under the dash that's with the cluster that comes through the firewall that's not directly plugged in the ecm about 6 inches past where it is plugged into each other looks as if Freddy Krueger himself got lost under there and had a panic attack and made his own tunnel out. I mean it literally looks as if someone deliberately did this mess. It's not from a rat or squirrel chewing up the wires it's is clearly knife marks under there. Makes me wanna question the previous owner and see if he had some wild jealous women that would do some mess like that . I'll keep you posted on how long it takes me to splice all this junk back together about 8 hrs already. And counting.......

Last time I saw "mystery damage" like that, it was a '14 Altima with open circuits in two of the APP wires. Had to pull the dash just to locate the problem, and then we found a bullet hole in the cowl and firewall. The mangled spent slug was underneath the driver's seat where it rolled after hitting the carpet.

That's not good. Did they just not remember that they was in a shootout the night prior . And lil update previous owner does in fact state that he can't remember for certain but seems like all he ever has had was crazy women.. I mean like really Bat Sh.... Crazy. Said his last took a pocket knife and then proceeded to urinate the whole entire interior of his Cadillac CTS-V.. all because and I'm quoting here " The woman At the drive-thru said hi Darlin" and then the fight was on. The Police is still actively looking for the woman.. so a knife to the dash wouldn't surprise him at all.

No, the guy with the Altima had no clue. Bullet went in right under one of the wiper blades, so you couldn't see it from outside unless you looked hard. Here in redneck country, it may have just been an accident. Road signage here in Arkansas isn't even official without buckshot.

Here in Alabama is the same way for real..