V8 folk, some info for you. It might come in handy.

This is for the oil filter used in Infiniti V8 vehicles. The part number is compatible with some Nissan models such as the 4th gen Maxima, the R35 GTR etc... but this info is for the V8s in particular; you my friends, are the neglected group.

Nissan OEM oil filter.
Old part numbers.
15208-31U00,
15208-31U01,
15208-31U0A,
15208-31U0B,
Superseded to 15208-9E01A

This applies to the following models and their engines:
M Series sedan - VK45DE, VK56VD

• 2003-2004 M45
• 2006-2010 M45
• 2011-2013 M56
• 2014-2019 Q70 V8

Original Q series sedan - VH41DE, VK45DE

• 1997-2001 Q45
• 2002-2006 Q45

FX Crossover - VK45DE, VK50VE

• 2003-2008 FX45
• 2009-2013 FX50
• 2014 QX70 V8

SUV - VK56DE, VK56VD

• 2004-2013 QX56
• 2014-2018 QX80

Big thanks to the K&N Filter I bought that motivated me to do this.

You'll notice that some brands have more than 1 number listed as compatible. That's usually a matter of size/length IIRC. When in doubt, take the larger one. The Nissan OEM filter is approx 3-1/4" long.
The size matters when you refill the oil after an oil change, sort of. Remember to check your dipstick.


AC Delco

• PF2057
• 25014568

Baldwin

• B1401

Bosch

• 3323
• 72179

Carquest

• 84141
• 85356

Castrol

• CA1030
• CAS7317

Chrysler

• 5142416AA
• 5142416AB

Ford

• F12Z6731B
• F23Z6731B

Fram

• PH7317
• PH5343

GM

• 25014658

Hastings

• LF240

K&N

• HP-1010

Mobil 1

• M1-110

Motorcraft

• FL2007

Napa

• 1356
• 1357

Purolator

• L14610
• L14620

Royal Purple

• 10-2867

Subaru

• 15208AA15A
• 15208KA000

WIX

• 51356
• 51357

And a video

I believe the Mobil 1 is now M1-110A. I haven't been able to find a M1-110 in quite some time. The A is their 'extended' filter.

Thanks.

I've just been getting OEM ones fairly cheap on Amazon, so have been sticky with them.

always use OEM filters, infiniti/nissan doesnt cheap out when it comes to filter quality

They go cheap on fluids why do you think they have good quality oil filters. I use Wix or Napa and am happy with them. A lot of pleats and a valve to keep pull in the system.

Andy

I'm a fan of the FRAM XG7317 Ultra Synthetic filter.

It goes 20,000 miles, filters as good, if not better than, the top competitors and is made of good materials. I've been using them on my M37 (the V8 filters fit on V6 models - just with more internal volume/filter surface area - they have the same bypass pressure relief rating, or so I've been told) for almost 3 years. No problems. I'm now doing 2x 7k OCIs with one filter even (drain filter, though).

I can't work out why the filter is not changed with every oil change, or why anyone would actually leave oil for 20k miles. It's a $50 service Vs a new engine. That said, I found this video of the Fram XG filter and I am amazed at the quality. This definitely NOT the cheapo rubbish sold at your local auto part shop or quickie lube stations.
.

I have to check that out, Fram is the brand that scared me the most. They are junk but I haven't seen that new filter. I agree with not leaving the filter in for 20,000 miles. Just don't think it's a good idea and like Larz said spend the $10-20 and replace it and top it off.

Larz wrote: ↑

Wed Jan 09, 2019 5:49 pm

I can't work out why the filter is not changed with every oil change, or why anyone would actually leave oil for 20k miles. It's a $50 service Vs a new engine.

Up until my lasy oil change, I agree with you. It's a difference of $8 roughly for the Fram XG, so really saving $4/OCI. I see it as why be wasteful if we don't need to be? The filter media doesn't break down, the filter has TONS holding capacity, and the ADBV is silicone so it won't break down or become weak, either. Same goes for running oil only 3k miles that can last 10k. I use Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra Platinum 5W-30 which is some of the best oil. I run it for 6-7k miles no problem and I'm sure it has more life in it. Every time I take a peak in the oil fill port, the head and cams look immaculate. I almost did a Blackstone UOA once, but decided I trust the oil is doing a great job - and I'm certain it is after reading other UOA reports of these VVEL engines (which run hot and are hard on oil). Even if there is a little bit accelerated wear, the engine won't break down within the next 100k miles - the transmission, electronics, or even body will (salt belt).

I agree Larz. I change my oil AND filter every 5kmi and I run Mobil 1 synthetic which could probably run 10kmi or more.

That being said, I will be doing an oil analysis my next oil change after running Mobil 1 0W-40 for like 80kmi and will report what the findings are.

Great! I look forward to seeing those results, as do lots of us I reckon.

ArmedAviator wrote: ↑

Mon Jan 21, 2019 11:37 am

... Every time I take a peak in the oil fill port, the head and cams look immaculate. I almost did a Blackstone UOA once, but decided I trust the oil is doing a great job - and I'm certain it is after reading other UOA reports of these VVEL ...

They always will, unless the engine starts pumping metal shavings all over.

I can't knock your decision on what you choose to save money on.
However, I wanted to point out that if you're basing your decision on engine health by visual observation, what you're looking at isn't where the rubber meets the road. The hard work happens in the bearings.

Not that I'd encourage you to do the UOA if you're not motivated to do so, but as a PSA: if you can see sediments being left on the suraces of the head through your oil filler neck, the engine is probably on its way out. The oil you drain will probably show debris in it as well.

That's a good point, @EdBwoy. Visual cues are very misleading, often. I am happy with the performance I am getting and don't feel as wasteful using top-quality products for only 30% of their useful life. That's the main reasoning. As I said, I'm absolutely certain that even with my less-than-custom OCIs/OFIs, my engine will outlast the rest of the car and continue performing top-notch the entire time.

@Ilya,
I also look forward to the results. Unfortunately here in Ohio, the winter is too cold to run 0W-40 even though I hear great things about it.

ArmedAviator wrote: ↑

Wed Jan 23, 2019 7:43 am

@Ilya,
I also look forward to the results. Unfortunately here in Ohio, the winter is too cold to run 0W-40 even though I hear great things about it.

I was told 0W-40 works no different than 5W-30 in the cold but provides a bit more on the hot side...from someone I trust. Ran it for many upstate NY winters (it was -30F with windchill on Monday).

The "Winter" weight in SAE grades is indiciative of the viscosity at -30C and -40C for certain tests. The -30 or -40, etc. SAE weight is at 100C. If you were to chart out the viscosity of 5W-30 and 0W-40, at 0C, the 5W-30 is less viscous than 0W-40.

The difference probably isn't worth being concerned about. If I were running winter and summer OCIs seperately, I'd go 0W-40 for the summer. Since I don't change out at specific annual intervals, I trust the recommended 5W-30 and it works great for me.


This week is supposed to be down to -10F (-25F wind chill) for us in Ohio. Oh joy...