I like looks of the adapter kit because it looks like it has new sockets and electrical wiring boots.

Initially I was very enthusiastic about DW and I thought I would send them all of my injectors and let them rework or rebuild my stuff when I tore down the engine for the timing chain job. Then I started reading some threads around the net about their 550cc injectors and started getting cold feet in general.

I put a call into them just now -- it will be tomorrow when they return call. As it turns out, years ago I once worked not far from their office when I lived in OKC. I could pick up my stuff from them in person - as an excuse to visit some friends in the area.

Maybe I could get them to pressure test the rail in my presence??

On the plenum removal and reinstallation, is the difficulty because of its weight and that you can’t bounce or misalign the plenum on the seals once initial contact is made?

Do you normally remove the hood (get it out of the way) as part of the plenum removal process?

OwnerCS wrote:..........On the plenum removal and reinstallation, is the difficulty because of its weight and that you can’t bounce or misalign the plenum on the seals once initial contact is made?......

The hood can stay on. There's only one hose at the rear of the plenum that is difficult to disconnect and connect. Other than that the biggest pitfall is remembering how it goes back together.

I'm sure you'll read all the posts on the R&R and if you're stay organized (notes and pics) you'll have no problems. If there's ever a 2nd time you need to remove the plenum you'll be done and driving in 4 hours.

For $230 I would seriously consider finding a 94-96 junkyard Q and harvesting the rails - rather than spend about the same amount for a whole new injector subharness vs. splicing and peicing together the whole thing with this kit. You might find one with a good subharness too. Do you havec any pull-a-part style junkyards in your area? http://www.pull-a-part.com

There are three 1994's in Memphis if you wanted to make the trek there... there's no way of knowing if the parts are still there without physically checking though. If you go please let me know... I have something I would like for you to look for...

Heath

I submitted a request with UsedPartsCentral.com. I've already got one reply back this morning that I need to call. Prices are starting at $120.

I do get over to Memphis a few times a year. I would like to check out that pull-a-part place -- though it will be after labor day when I can make it over there again.

1994 OEM harness are already 16+ years old depending on local conditions they could act like 16 or 100 years old. Jumk yard stuff is already past it's prime unless pulled years ago a stored under decent conditions.

Q45tech wrote:1994 OEM harness are already 16+ years old depending on local conditions they could act like 16 or 100 years old. Jumk yard stuff is already past it's prime unless pulled years ago a stored under decent conditions.

The injector wiring connector plug sockets on mine are hard and brittle. I know the plastic sockets will crack when I try to disconnect.

Is there a technique for unplugging an injector without breaking the plastic socket?

A relay puller made disconnecting the plug to the injector wiring harness and O2 sensor plug connections a seemingly low (breakage) risk operation. I like to proceed cautiously with the right tools when unplugging "antique" electrical connections.

Another site to check is www.car-part.com

The beauty of pull-a-part is that you only pay for what you pull - and it's really cheap. From what I can tell, their business model is to buy the car for the price of the scrap metal, charge the public $1 to get in and scavenge parts for a while - then sell what's left for scrap. You can pull the rails and injectors and then get the old injectors out so that you're not paying for them... and you can pocket a ton of miscellaneous screws and bolts that they usually don't charge for. I have no idea if the subharness would be good, but you'll know when you remove it.

In terms of salvaging your current harness, I think a whole new phase 1 style harness is only $100, so it may not be worth it. I try to take the metal clips out with a small dental pick or small precision screwdriver before unplugging them. That seems to be the safest way to not break them, but even that it's foolproof.

Heath

I think I'm starting to smell Gus's World Famous (Memphis) Fried Chicken and of course Fried Green Tomatoes are in season right now.

http://www.seriouseats.com/2007/08/the- ... ght-b.html