Tuning help please

[float_6969]

Well I've got everything wired up now. The butteryflys work and they definatly make a difference down low, especially with this lightweight flywheel. For some reason, the fast idle isn't working, but I'll get that figured out later. So here is my question;

To those of you who've tuned, or been present for tuning, approx how long did it take to get the car tuned? I'm trying to figure out how much time to tell the shop I'll need, and so I know how much to expect to spend.

I'll have lots of dyno sheets and pictures of the car up when I get it all done.

[fanta]

http://www.efi101.com/forum

[float_6969]

This is an SDS FI system. I expect 240-270WHP. This is on a dynojet. What don't you like about them? This is a friends shop, so I'm getting a very good deal on the per hour pricing.

Unfortunatly, I don't have a wideband, and my narrowband crapped out on me when I hooked the heater up. The shops tuning prices include wideband, so I should be covered there. I intend on getting a wideband, but my choices are to get a wideband and wait a month to tune it, or tune it with a wideband, wait a month for a wideband.

I've got brand new plugs in there, but I'll get another set. That's a good idea that I didn't think of.

Thanks for the input!

I've put about 2 hrs on the motor since I installed the SDS and I think i've got all the bugs worked out. I still hasn't seen any boost though, so that's a whole other can of worms.

[Not_a_sr]

ryan, i would also wait till you have a wideband at home, do some street tuning! get everything spot on, then take it in to the dyno with your wideband stuff if they use a tail pipe setup. have them then help you tune for power. trust me dont waste time on the dyno till your ready to tune for power...

we just wasted 2 hours on the dyno last thursday due to being not prepared we looked like a bunch of morons. we tuned a DSM with a 50trim on it we forgot a extra wastegate spring and maxed out at 12psi and 260hp weaksauce. then we were goin to tune a turbo focus that we had just fixed its MAF problem towed up there and the MAF was a dud..

i would find out how much for a days rental, if its around 500-800 then get you and a few others that are serious about getting tunes and you will have money well spent.

[float_6969]

Thanks for the unput on the Dyno's. I have one other Dyno available in my area, but it's a Mustang, so it sounds like I'm not getting anywhere. (Plus he charges more, and doesn't seem to have much intrest in having a Nissan on his Dyno)

If was me, I would wait for the wideband. If the wideband is the style you stick in the tailpipe, wait. Those wideband are not that accurate. Plus, with SDS and dyno RPM points will not be the same, you may find that out when you are at the dyno. That means more time on the dyno, more $$.

This confused me, are you saying that you think that if he's got the "stick in the tailpipe wideband" (which he does) that I should get my wideband first, then go to the dyno, after I've got the basics worked out?

Before you hit the dyno, I would make sure the car is in good working order. It is easier/cheaper to fix the problem off the dyno, then on it. Start will very low timing (4-8* total in boost). The odds of your getting knock are very little.

I put it into boost (7psi) last night for about 20 min worth of driving. Holy crap this thing spools fast! I was hitting 7psi by the upper 2K to lower 3K RPM range. I'm gonna keep trying to drive it this week to get any bugs that I might have worked out. As for the forumla, that one is also in the SDS manual, so I've seen it, but thank you for all of your input!

Jon,Thanks for the reccomendations. I guess I'll pick up the wideband this week instead. (I think thats what Coldspawn was saying too) I might be able to get it tuned next week anyway still as I think I've got some back commission that I'm gonna get paid for. We'll see.

Anyway, thanks for all the help guys! I'll keep you updated.

[tyrannix]

spool between 2-3k? what turbo?

[float_6969]

It's an S14 T28. Modified compressor side, SSAC mani w/flyn dumpipe, test pipe, Apex, N1 Single. High compression pistons. Was hitting 7psi around 3K. Hard to tell exactly

[float_6969]

I'm going to order the LC-1 from Innovate Motorsports on Wed.

Where do you have your O2 sensor mounted? I've read that you should try to mount it vertically so that it doesn't retain water. The only place I can do that is near the turbo, in the stock O2 sensor location. They state that the Sensor shouldn't be any closer than 6" to the turbo. It might be that far away, but if it is, it's pretty close.

So which is the lesser evil? Heat or water? I could use a heat sink that they have available if I need to I suppose.

[float_6969]

Sidenote: I got the fast idle working. For some reason, I've got to open the throttle just a bit, and then it'll idle up. It's like the valve in the solenoid can't handle the vac. and won't open. It's weird...

[float_6969]

I mount them a few degrees off the top of the pipe. Do not mount it perfectly straight up.

The stock O2 Sensor location, is just as you described.

The LC-1 should come with a 02 bung. Go to a exhaust shop and tell them where you want it. it would not be more then $20 for them to do it.

Yea, I realize that it will come with a bung that needs welded in. I could do it myself, but I don't have access to my friends welder anymore. But I've got a friend at an exhaust shop so I'm sure I can get it done for super cheap.

They are about the same. Water damage is going to happen over time. Heat is going to be instant. Heat will throw the sensor off. I rarely get close to overheating the sensor, on a piston motor. Rotaries are a different thing. I do not leave the sensor in the car after I tune it too. If it is tuned correctly, you should not need it.

I think for safety's sake, I'll get the heat sink for the O2 sensor that they have available. Then I can mount it in a farily vertical position so that water doesn't collect on it, plus it will still be in an easily accessable spot. I will need to leave it in the car for the closed loop to work as this will be a daily/street driven car. I've contemplated running two O2 senosors, but the narrowband I need for my car is like $75. That's the same price as the bosch wideband.

Does SDS have ECT, IAT correction?

Does ECT=Engine Coolant Temperature? If so, yes. It's adjustable based on temperature and adding a certain amount of extra fuel to the base map. Does IAT=Intake Air Temperture? If so, yes. But it's built in to the programming, and not adjustable.

[float_6969]

Yea, the reason that I picked the LC-1 was so that I would still have 2, programmable, analog, aux outputs. The SDS can actually use the wide-band input to run closed loop, PLUS use the data-logging. So I intend on running one AUX output to the SDS for the data-logging and the closed loop features. I then intend to use the other AUX output to feed my Autometer gauge. I know it's not super accurate (nothing numerical) but i will quickly tell me if the motor is running lean w/o having to think about AF ratios. (IE- RED = BAD!)

SDS does have the ability to adjust the closed loop regions. I have 5 controls. 1st- Closed Loop On/Off 2nd-Closed Loop High RPM limit 3rd-Closed Loop Low RPM limit 4th-Closed Loop High Load limit 5th-Closed Loop Low Load limit

I plan on turning off the closed loop altogether when I'm on the track/high boost. Then for the daily/low boost conditions, I'll leave the closed loop on. I'll have to play with it, but it will probably operate between 1750-3750 RPMS, and from about -15 inches to just under atmospheric (I think it's -.5"). (I idle at around -19 inches)

[float_6969]

You have helped, thank you. I should have the wideband Mon/Tues.