tried to start it today

[originalsin]

ok so i hooked everything up and tried to turn it start it today, crank over fine, tried it twice for like 5-10secs each and got nothing, 3rd time it seemed to fire a few times but never actually started. i dont have ic stuff hooked up or vac lines, but it should still atleast start and die right?? and when im cranking it the check engine light is off but wen i stop it goes on and the red and green lights on the ecu are on (idk if that means anything) but yea it was dark to then i just cleaned up. so trouble shooting... obvioulsy check for spark (plugs are alrdy new and gapped) i am almost positive im getting fuel because i thought i might have had the lines reveresed and when i pulled um off i got a good blast so yea i reversed tho and wasent even starting to fire, so they must have been on right (the feed line is the top one right? like that should be hooked up to the fuel filter) any other suggestions?? i dont expect it to run or anything, just start and prolly stall out, because its much easier working on everything with more room

[float_6969]

You're dealing with a MAFS system. Forget about starting it until you've got the piping all hooked up. As far as the fuel lines go, the fuel is coming from the tank, through the fuel filter, into the fuel rail, past the injectors, through the fuel pressure regulator, and back into the tank.

[originalsin]

oo rly? lol well that solves some problems, but is the feed like the top of the 2 steel fuel lines that are on the manifold?

[c-rad]

oo rly? lol well that solves some problems, but is the feed like the top of the 2 steel fuel lines that are on the manifold?

The metal line that is connected to the filter is the feed, the other is the return.

[originalsin]

lol i kno but like connect tot he intake mani, where the two soft lines slide on to, there are 2 hardlines bolted, ones angles down slightly(the lower one) im asking of those, which is feed and return

[slownslurious]

even with vaccuum leaks if its at base idle it should still start, thats all the idle air control valve. But anyway all the motors I've ever built or swapped had to be turned over a good many times before they finally caught. My ca18det had gummed up plugs and we prolly cranked it for a good 5 minutes or so before we got it to start on 3 cyls, once I knew it was running I ran to the store for new plugs.

[boost_boy]

ok so i hooked everything up and tried to turn it start it today, crank over fine, tried it twice for like 5-10secs each and got nothing, 3rd time it seemed to fire a few times but never actually started. i dont have ic stuff hooked up or vac lines, but it should still atleast start and die right?? and when im cranking it the check engine light is off but wen i stop it goes on and the red and green lights on the ecu are on (idk if that means anything) but yea it was dark to then i just cleaned up. so trouble shooting... obvioulsy check for spark (plugs are alrdy new and gapped) i am almost positive im getting fuel because i thought i might have had the lines reveresed and when i pulled um off i got a good blast so yea i reversed tho and wasent even starting to fire, so they must have been on right (the feed line is the top one right? like that should be hooked up to the fuel filter) any other suggestions?? i dont expect it to run or anything, just start and prolly stall out, because its much easier working on everything with more room

If it's a must that you see/hear it running, connect your AFM to your T-body via a pipe or coupling. Make sure the oil is getting to the top of the engine before you get ignition. Doing this will help ensure that your oil pump is ready and primed. Then try and crank it, but make sure you have sufficient power.

Dee

[originalsin]

how to make sure oil is getting up in the top of the engine? just take off the oil plug?? and if its not just keep cranking it with the starter but no ignition?

[buffy]

The conection at the rear of the fuel rail is the return

[r34 gtr]

friggin crank it over for a little while, then take off the valve covers and see if theres oil on stuff. if not, something is wrong. youll want to crank it for a little while with the ignition disconnected because a dry start, while not catastrophic to the engine (assuming you have oil pressure as soon as it starts) will likely cook the balls off your turbo.

i would suggest starting it only after everything is in place. there are too many things that could make the car not run otherwise. (for the record, the ca18det can be a real pain in the arse in the "randomly not running" department).

- tim