transmission overheating

Nissan Rogue forum - Includes Nissan Qashqai and Nissan Dualis as well.
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VStar650CL
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D1dad wrote:
Wed Sep 08, 2021 6:27 am
I have cases of eneos eco so why not. I just did back to back drain and fills, separated by around 100 miles and the trans sounds way quieter and smoother than it did using valvoline.
One of my customers using Eneos mentioned that too, and the specs on the Eneos fluid are excellent. Seems like a winner.


D1dad
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It for sure has made the cvt dead silent on the highway. Now if I can find the 16-1800k rpm hum in this thing I’ll be all set. I’ve secured every heat shield and plastic panel possible and I can’t isolate it. I’ve read it could be the alternator but have a hard time believing that.

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VStar650CL
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The overrunning clutches in Altie alternators can hum right out of the box, among assorted other noises. I haven't heard one fart yet, but it wouldn't surprise me. :crazy:

D1dad
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It’s rpm related. Almost like a heat shield or plastic panel somewhere. If I’m just cruising at 35 mph and the rpms are at, say 1500 and I need to accelerate the rattle is around 16-1800 and I can sustain the rattle but goes away when I throttle up to 2k. Annoying as hell. I’ve used clips on every panel I could find, shimmed the exhaust hangers and tac welded every heat shield on the car. It does sound like it resonates from the area of the alternator so who knows. I ordered a low mileage oem from a yard off of a 13 rogue for cheap just to see. It’s literally tormenting me.

D1dad
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On a side note I can’t recommend eneos eco cvt fluid enough for any cvt running ns2. I did multiple drain and fills this week, 3 so far to get the valvoline out and man what a difference. My cvt temps are 8-10 degrees lower and the 1500k rpm Droan is gone. The fluid is also ns3 compatible but eneos makes an ns3 specific that I use on my newer cars and from all I’ve read is the actual ns3 fluid made for Nissan at a fraction of the cost. The valvoline ran fine but from day 1 made the cvt loud. Eneos specifically states “quieter operation” as a characteristic on their website. I ordered 3 cases online of each and ended up paying around $5 a qt. I also converted the wife’s 18 rogues rear diff and TC over to their 75-90 and am gonna run their 0w20 racing oil that’s packed with moly in the crankcase in the 18 and 21 Altima next service. Overkill? Probably. I don’t gamble or do drugs but have an addiction to car care.

D1dad
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VStar650CL wrote:
Tue Sep 07, 2021 2:29 pm
Many of the AWD's basically use the 6-cyl chain setup, so by and large that's true (however, I don't exactly have a list of the exceptions). IMHO the vectored AWD on the Juke was one of the absolute finest AWD setups ever constructed by anybody, and I have no idea why Nissan never extended it to other models. Lucky you, what a hoot to drive!
What cvt did they use on the 18 rogue awd? Am I looking at the underwhelming 09 belt style or the well built chain? Fwiw my tech said 18 was a good year for the rogue and has saw nothing but maintenance in his bay. I’ll still drain and fill every 10k regardless.

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VStar650CL
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D1dad wrote:
Thu Sep 09, 2021 4:17 am
What cvt did they use on the 18 rogue awd? Am I looking at the underwhelming 09 belt style or the well built chain? Fwiw my tech said 18 was a good year for the rogue and has saw nothing but maintenance in his bay. I’ll still drain and fill every 10k regardless.
The AWD Rogues actually use a bolt-on TY21C transfer assembly coupled to the standard RE0F10 tranny. I think that's pretty much the direction Nissan is going with AWD on the 4-cyl's. Mind you, I wasn't implying that there's anything structurally wrong with the 4-cyl CVT belts. They're plenty strong for the application, which is more-or-less 250 HP and down. What I was conferring in the pics is how much smaller the cross- and surface-sections are compared to the sixes. That means extra per-square shearing force under load and accelerated shear breakdown of the fluid molecules in consequence. The English translation is, if they're driven hard and not maintained, they naturally beat the crap out of the fluid and suffer early failure. However, as meticulous as you are about your fluid, I'll be terribly surprised if your belt doesn't long outlive the rest of your car.

D1dad
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Thanks for the info and praise. I actually just did the rogue today and as I was setting there waiting forever for the TFT to come up, I thought of an easy way for someone without a scanguage to change the fluid in the cvts without using the leveling plug. I drained the fluid cold this morning, around 65 degrees out and dumped it into an empty clean oil jug. As usual I had a tad over 3.5 qts so I grabbed 4 qts out of a case. Had I have used my brain I would have just dumped one of the new qts into the old fluid until it came up to the 4qt line and then filled the tranny. Perfect fluid change. Of course this will only work if your car hasn’t yet been ran, and you know the tranny wasn’t over or under filled before…which mine isn’t. No more waiting for 20 minutes for the trans temp to come up to 113 degrees for me lol.

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VStar650CL
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D1dad wrote:
Thu Sep 09, 2021 8:58 am
No more waiting for 20 minutes for the trans temp to come up to 113 degrees for me lol.
Aw, c'mon, patience is a virtue. :rotfl

Seriously, there's no reason to sit around waiting for the engine to warm up the trans. You can heat it up artificially very easily, just do a low-grade Torque Converter stall. Put the car in gear with your foot on the brake and raise the idle to about 1500. Since nothing is moving, the belt and pulleys are unaffected, but the hydraulic resistance in the TC will bring the fluid temperature up very quickly. Usually takes under 2 minutes.

C-ya
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@VStar650CL

Once again resurrecting this old(er) thread with a question. I did a pan drop and screen filter change on my daughter's '11 Rogue SV AWD and I ran out of time to get the filter behind the cooler done. In reading through the TSB, it seems like very little if any transmission fluid is lost. Would I be OK to drop it and change the filter with the normal operating amount of fluid in the transmission? It already has the 4-port beehive cooler. I didn't look for the aux cooler, but I will in the next day or 3.

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VStar650CL
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C-ya wrote:
Sun Mar 06, 2022 4:46 pm
I did a pan drop and screen filter change on my daughter's '11 Rogue SV AWD and I ran out of time to get the filter behind the cooler done. In reading through the TSB, it seems like very little if any transmission fluid is lost. Would I be OK to drop it and change the filter with the normal operating amount of fluid in the transmission? It already has the 4-port beehive cooler. I didn't look for the aux cooler, but I will in the next day or 3.
If it already has a 4-port and you're not taking the beehive loose, Nissan doesn't recommend ever replacing that filter and neither do I. No CVT ever makes ATF soup because there's no almost no ablative clutch material, so it isn't serving the same purpose as it would in a conventional trans. It's only reason for existence is to catch the small amount of shavings from break-in, and changing it will just put some amount of those shavings back into circulation until they get caught again. It's probably fine to change it when you're converting from 2-port to 4-port and you're taking the beehive loose anyway, but aside from that, my advice is forget it's there.

C-ya
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Thanks. The filter came with the screen and gasket, so no money lost.

There were some fine metal slivers on the screen that I replaced. Any concern with that? I can grab a picture of the screen tomorrow. The magnets had some sludge on them, but nothing terrible. This is my first experience with a CVT, so I want to make sure I learn to "read" it correctly.

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VStar650CL
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You're most welcome. The pan is where most of the little crud a CVT generates settles out, so a thin layer of black stuff on the magnets and in the bottom of the pan is normal. So are a few chips and slivers on the screen if it's never been changed, they've probably been there since break-in. No worries, just clean it all out. The CVT DIYers in here can all tell you the black stuff and chips stop accumulating once the tranny gets regular fluid changes at a decent interval. So after the first couple-three pan-drops, you can quit worrying about it and just do D&F.

C-ya
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Thanks for the info. The layer of slivers on the screen was more that what I would consider a few. I'll post a picture and see what you think. Since I don't know, I don't know.

It had a little cold rattle that went away as it warmed up when we got it. I did a drain and fill initially that seemed to help some, so I thought a pan drop would be good for it, and also as a baseline point as we recently bought it. I'll give it a few thousand miles this time and do another pan drop. My daughter reported less noise (quieter) this morning when she drove it.

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VStar650CL
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Old fluid will definitely make for noisy operation, as will certain fluids. I don't generally recommend Valvoline to people for that reason, because it actually seems to increase the noise level instead of reducing it. My two customers who have tried it both noticed (although to be fair, one of them was fighting a doomed tranny on its last legs). But with most fluids under most circumstances, you'll see quieter operation for sure.

Vis the slivers, the size of them is what really matters. With crappy old fluid there's bound to have been some wear and tear, but as long as it's fine slivers with nothing bigger than about a millimeter, you should be okay.

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VStar650CL
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PS - I don't know what the car's mileage is, but your cold rattle may well be piston-slap and not the tranny. QR25's are infamous for it, but with good maintenance and treatment they can run for ages with the pistons slapping merrily every morning. If that's what it is, just don't push it until it gets warm.

C-ya
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VStar650CL wrote:
Sun Mar 06, 2022 7:23 pm
PS - I don't know what the car's mileage is, but your cold rattle may well be piston-slap and not the tranny. QR25's are infamous for it, but with good maintenance and treatment they can run for ages with the pistons slapping merrily every morning. If that's what it is, just don't push it until it gets warm.
Mileage is 127K. I thought it was engine related at first, but it is as quiet in neutral or park as it is when warm. You can rev the engine while cold - within reason, of course - and not hear anything. It is only while driving that you hear the rattle. When we first started driving it, we kept the rpm at or below 2,500, and lower if possible. Once warm, the rattle was gone, and the vehicle kept the rpm where it needed to be, which with an easy pedal, was always 2,000 or below. Now with it quieter, we are still trying to drive easy until it warms up some.

I try to stress to my wife and daughter a couple of minutes idling and then driving easy when it is below freezing will do wonders for the life of the vehicle. I drive a diesel, so I don't have the luxury of starting it up and coming out to a warm vehicle. LOL

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VStar650CL wrote:
Sun Mar 06, 2022 7:17 pm
Vis the slivers, the size of them is what really matters. With crappy old fluid there's bound to have been some wear and tear, but as long as it's fine slivers with nothing bigger than about a millimeter, you should be okay.
They were pretty small. Ended up with one in a fingertip. Don't mind the junk on the rim. I laid it in a pile of oil dry.

Image Image

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VStar650CL
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None of that is big enough to sweat, and for a tranny that's been in service for awhile it's not bad at all. No worries.

C-ya
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VStar650CL wrote:
Mon Mar 07, 2022 5:08 pm
None of that is big enough to sweat, and for a tranny that's been in service for awhile it's not bad at all. No worries.
Thanks much. :cheers:


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