Transmission fluid change on 2010 EU Pathfinder

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NorwegianPathfinder
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Joined: Tue Feb 22, 2022 1:23 pm
Car: 2010 Nissan Pathfinder 2.5 dCi R51

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I've been looking for advice/guidance on how to change the transmission fluid on my 2010 diesel Pathfinder.
Only thing I've been able to find out so far is that it's basically just a question of taking out the bottom plug, let the fluid run out, reinstall the plug and then refill through the dipstick pipe.
The problem I face however is that there is no such dipstick on my particular vehicle; let alone any pipe to fill through.
So I was wondering if anyone here has heard of/encountered this issue and has any advice on how to go about it.
I might add that I plan on changing the transfer box fluid in the same go - something I'm just as perplexed by on how to do.


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mdmellott
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Car: '13 Kia Soul+ 2.0L AT
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Your 2010 does not have a typical A/T saber length dip stick. It's more of a dagger in length and somewhat out of sight, and without a the typical finger ring at the end to pull it out. See page TM-194 of the service manual to get an idea of what you are looking for. >>> https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... 0%2FTM.pdf Page TM-155 is the start of maintenance steps for changing the ATF.

The transfer case fluid change is very simple. Refer to page DLN-135 of the service manual to see what you need to do. >>> https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... %2FDLN.pdf

(I'm assuming the European market models did not change the transmission and transfer case configurations too much, if at all, when the diesel engines were added. The information here in these factory service manuals does not cover the unique variants offered to markets outside North America.)

NorwegianPathfinder
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Joined: Tue Feb 22, 2022 1:23 pm
Car: 2010 Nissan Pathfinder 2.5 dCi R51

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Thanks a lot for the help!
Thanks to the drawing I've managed to locate the entrance hole where the pipe to the dipstick should have been.
Apparently they decided for this model to not install the pipe, but happily the transmission casing seems otherwise to be intact and in accordance with the drawing in the service manual.
So I'll have to fill it up from underneath with a pump/surringe, but that is a world of a difference compared to not being able to refill myself (which I was starting to fear).
I haven't started the procedure yet, so I'm not sure whether there be a short dipstick going down from the aforementioned lid, but I'll soon find out.

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mdmellott
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NorwegianPathfinder wrote:
Sat Feb 26, 2022 1:18 pm
Apparently they decided for this model to not install the pipe, ... I haven't started the procedure yet, so I'm not sure whether there be a short dipstick going down from the aforementioned lid, but I'll soon find out.
That does seem a bit odd. If there is no dipstick at all, to measure your ATF level, you can always measure the full amount of old fluid you drain out and then refill with an equal amount of fresh ATF. As long as you do not have a transmission fluid leak going on, whereby the current level is bound to be low, this drain and refill measure method works well enough to get the fluid level correct.

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mdmellott
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mdmellott wrote:
Sat Feb 26, 2022 2:06 pm
NorwegianPathfinder wrote:
Sat Feb 26, 2022 1:18 pm
Apparently they decided for this model to not install the pipe, ... I haven't started the procedure yet, so I'm not sure whether there be a short dipstick going down from the aforementioned lid, but I'll soon find out.
That does seem a bit odd. If there is no dipstick at all, to measure your ATF level, you can always measure the full amount of old fluid you drain out and then refill with an equal amount of fresh ATF. As long as you do not have a transmission fluid leak going on, whereby the current level is bound to be low, this drain and refill measure method works well enough to get the fluid level correct.
Just so that I'm clear; Since you mentioned transmission dipstick to begin with, I assumed you have an automatic transmission. Is that right? I just realized that model of 2010 diesel is available with a manual transmission as well. There's a different fluid fill and level check for a MT, which is much the same as the transfer case.

NorwegianPathfinder
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Joined: Tue Feb 22, 2022 1:23 pm
Car: 2010 Nissan Pathfinder 2.5 dCi R51

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Very odd indeed and makes no sense to me.
I'll be measuring what comes out when I drain it. It should contain around 10 liters, but you apparently only get around 3 liters out when changing. So I'll keep an eye on the extracted amount and refill accordingly.

It is an automatic transmission on my vehicle, yes.

Do you know if it's necessary to heat up the fluid before draining it - by having the engine run for a while - or is that only good to do in order to have the fluid flow more smoothly?

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mdmellott
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Warming up the transmission by driving 10min or so is necessary to get an accurate measurement on the dipstick but some dipsticks have a hot and a cold fluid level line so in those cases it's not necessary to warm it up. Running the engine while parked does nothing to warm up the transmission. Either way, it makes no difference if you don't have a dipstick and use the measured drain and fill method. If you let the vehicle sit for hours before draining, more fluid can be drained since some of the fluid trapped in the system will drain back into the lower pan. Even still, you will probably get no more than 4 liters to drain out.

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VStar650CL
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mdmellott wrote:
Mon Feb 28, 2022 9:55 am
Warming up the transmission by driving 10min or so is necessary to get an accurate measurement on the dipstick but some dipsticks have a hot and a cold fluid level line so in those cases it's not necessary to warm it up. Running the engine while parked does nothing to warm up the transmission.
Any A/T (even a CVT) can be safely warmed up in the garage by doing a low-grade "torque converter stall" with foot on the brake and transmission in drive with the RPM held at 1200~1500. This causes the converter to heat the fluid from hydraulic resistance without actually moving anything but the turbine shaft, which is why it's safe even for CVT belts. Just don't get carried away, about 3 minutes at 1200 will suffice on most vehicles.

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mdmellott
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VStar650CL wrote:
Mon Feb 28, 2022 10:53 am
Any A/T (even a CVT) can be safely warmed up in the garage by doing a low-grade "torque converter stall" with foot on the brake and transmission in drive with the RPM held at 1200~1500.
Excellent tip! I will be doing this next time and always afterward. It's safe assume this is also a good way to meet the precondition step of warming up the transmission before doing the idle air volume relearn procedure. I like this! Thank you.

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VStar650CL
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You're most welcome as always!
:dblthumb:

NorwegianPathfinder
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Joined: Tue Feb 22, 2022 1:23 pm
Car: 2010 Nissan Pathfinder 2.5 dCi R51

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I did the ATF change without any major issues. It was simply a question of measuring the drained fluid and refilling the same amount.
I used an oil/fluid syringe to refill from the same spot as a dipstick pipe would have been.
There was a lid over the base of the refill hole
(where the dipstick pipe would have been connected to the transmission case)
and a plug in that lid to refill through.
I only had to loosen one bolt to get the plug out.
The only immediate issue I had was preventing dirt from going down the refill hole, but it wasn't a big problem. I used a small mirror to look down the hole and clean with a cotton swab.
In summary: No problem refilling ATF without dipstick.


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