Trailer Hitch and Pre wire

Post by **mmihm** » Sat Aug 16, 2008 5:03 am

I don't understand why yours has it and mine doesn't. It's just not there. I removed the tape and everything when trying to find a hot wire. Nissan dealer couldn't find it either.

The wire I cut into was black which didn't have constant power. The only other one that looked like it might was black with grey spots on it. I didn't try that one but it looked like it was going up to the vehicle ground.

Post by **philipa_240sx** » Sun Aug 17, 2008 3:34 am

Do you have an S model by chance? Perhaps the base models lack this plug?

Post by **3rd_Man** » Mon Sep 08, 2008 3:46 pm

Hey All, I've ordered the Swagman XC 2 bike model and am shopping for a hitch. Is it your experience that an extension will be needed to facilitate this rack with my hitch? I'm hemming and hawing over which hitch but am leaning towards the Draw-tite off of Ebay.

Thanks ya'll.

Post by **sjahan22** » Tue Dec 02, 2008 4:17 pm

hello sirbikesalot,

Thank you for the detailed post and pictures. Could you pls confirm that your hitch part number is 13185 From Curt manufacturing Class III hitchI liked its unobstructiveness and wanted to make sure I get the same model

Also, I read somewhere down the thread that I should make sure that it is manufactured after 19 June, 2008 to avoid the mount hole mismatch

ThanksShaw

Post by **hitch guy** » Wed Dec 03, 2008 3:59 am

You do have the right part number. Curt Part # 13185. This is a very simple hitch to install. The big thing is have a helper, to position the hitch. Install the bolts on the drivers side just enough to get the threads started, Then work your way over to the passenger side. Then torque all six bolts to65ftlbs.

As far as the June 19, 2008 build date. I would not worry about getting a hitch this old as our inventory does not sit around that long.

"Quality is never an accident; it represents the wise choice of many alternatives."Shannon EngelQuality ControlCurt Manufacturing IncEau Claire, Wisconsinhttp://www.curtmfg.com/

Post by **philipa_240sx** » Wed Dec 03, 2008 5:02 am

hitch guy wrote:We are currently working on improving the packaging. Because we are finding this is where the hitches are becoming bent during shipment. Causing installment issues. Thank You for making us aware of the issues you were seeing. Feel free to contact me with any improvements or questions.Shannon EngelCURT Manufacturing INCQuality Control

+1 for the packaging issue... but in all fairness my hitch did not come in a box (just plastic wrapped) and the courier was less than kind to it. As a result I feel my hitch was partly bent during shipment causing install issues. Once corrected, the hitch installed and performed beautifully.

It is still a good product and fits very well. I would recommend the product to anyone.

Post by **sjahan22** » Wed Dec 03, 2008 3:43 pm

Thank you Shannon. Does Curt Mfg only makes one Class 3 hitch for Rogue? I want to make sure that #13185 is shown on sirbikesalot's posting earlier on this thread. That is the hitch does not stick out in the back and is not noticeable (low profile - unobstructive)

Also, do I need to take out the heat shield or exhaust pipe to mount the hitch ?

-Shaw

Post by **sjahan22** » Wed Dec 03, 2008 4:41 pm

Is Curt 13185 same asHidden Hitch Part #87457 Hidden Hitch - Class III, 2''

-Shaw

Post by **Pescakl1** » Thu Dec 04, 2008 1:41 am

sjahan22 wrote:Thank you Shannon. Does Curt Mfg only makes one Class 3 hitch for Rogue? I want to make sure that #13185 is shown on sirbikesalot's posting earlier on this thread. That is the hitch does not stick out in the back and is not noticeable (low profile - unobstructive)

Also, do I need to take out the heat shield or exhaust pipe to mount the hitch ?

-Shaw

I got a class 3 U-Haul renamed Curtmfg hitch for my Rogue. Low profile as you can see on the pictures from others.

Install is really easy: Just remove the bolts on the passenger side and a small protection piece to get space for the bolts. The instructions indicate to loosen the exhaust but you don't need to do that step. The hitch fits nicely without that, you just need some help to hold the hitch in place while you install the bolts.It is just a 2-3 bolts removal and 6 bolts installation type of mod.

Post by **hitch guy** » Thu Dec 04, 2008 3:46 am

The Hidden Hitch #87457 is very close to the Curt 13185. I feel the Curt is a better hitch because of the closed end tube design on the mainbody, the powder coat finish, and the backplate.

Curt currently makes 2 hitches for the Nissan Rogue. The Class II 12247 and the Class III 13185. The difference being the receiver tube. The Class II has 1 1/4 receiver tube, the Class III has a 2" receiver tube. We also Manufacture a T-connector for the Rogue 56033.

Post by **kerrton** » Wed May 27, 2009 7:34 am

Orphanedcowboy wrote:Some one else posted the link to the Professional Wiring Products harness, so I ordered one for the Rogue, and it was a snap to install, took about 20 minutes. It was $52 shipped to the house and everything was plug and play.

http://www.professionalwiringp...770b0

Sorry if this is already covered, but I don't have the pre-wire package, so is this package all I need, or do I need something additional. Thanks in advance.

Post by **philipa_240sx** » Wed May 27, 2009 7:44 am

The Professional Wiring Products harness would be all you need, even if your Rogue did not come 'pre-wired'.

The 'pre-wire' is very confusing since it appears all Rogues already come with the power connector needed for the Professional Wiring Products converter. We have never managed to clear answer from anyone at Nissan what the 'pre-wire' actually consists of.

Post by **kerrton** » Wed May 27, 2009 9:44 am

Very strange, considering the pre-wire is a major item in the Premium Package. So if I had pre-wire I'd still need to order the Professional Wiring product, but at least one component would duplicated??!! That is crazy but I guess I'm not sorry that I passed on the pre-wire.

My father in law has pre-wiring for his Hyundai Santa Fe, and it includes the wiring harness under the back bumper but the vehcile does not come with a hitch. We recently added a hitch ourselvers and the existing "pre-wire" harness was available on a mounting plate that attached easily to our new hitch.

Thanks a lot for the info Philip, you are so much more informative than the Nissan dealership!

Post by **philipa_240sx** » Wed May 27, 2009 10:31 am

kerrton wrote:Very strange, considering the pre-wire is a major item in the Premium Package. So if I had pre-wire I'd still need to order the Professional Wiring product, but at least one component would duplicated??!! That is crazy but I guess I'm not sorry that I passed on the pre-wire.

This has been covered before. The pre-wire is a mystery to every Nissan dealer and even Nissan corporate:

zerothread?id=330997

There is little if any pre-wiring in place on the SL Premium Pack. Any you definitely DO NOT get any trailer harness (ie flat 4 connector) with the pre-wire. Nissan then wants you to by thier trailer wiring harness pictured... to the tune of $150 US to complete the wiring!

From what I've seen all Rogue's have the same 12V power plug in the hatch area...pre-wire or not. This was designed for Nissan's trailer wiring/adapter... and is used by the Professional Wiring Products adapter.

Post by **kerrton** » Fri May 29, 2009 7:34 am

I'm going to be towing a small utility trailer and when loaded it'll be no more than 800 pounds, and I was wondering if I should use the "Overdrive Off" function when driving/hauling around town to reduce the impact on the CVT?

On the one hand it'll select a lower gear ratio and that could help protect the tranny from damage, but on the other hand a lower gear ratio will result in higher rpms and possibly cause the CVT to run hotter and maybe have the opposite effect that I'm going for (i.e. to avoid damaging or adding extra wear on the CVT). Any input is welcome, I have no experience towing with a CVT and don't want to cause any wear issues!

Post by **philipa_240sx** » Fri May 29, 2009 9:02 am

Generally, it's preferable to use lower gears when towing. It will give you more torque, places less strain on the engine, and provides some engine braking when slowing down. The CVT should benefit from lower gearing as well. The lower gearing results in the output 'pulley' expanding and this places less stress and pressure on the CVT belt. It's pressure that creates damaging amounts of heat, not the rpms. It's like pedaling a bicycle... the lower gears make it easier pedal and places less strain on the chain.

I try to use the 'overdrive off' feature quite frequently when towing to provide this lower gearing. Sometimes I will also place it in 'L' for better acceleration/control at low speeds.

Funny you mention it, because I just towed a 700+lb load today... and forgot to use the overdrive feature. DOH! It was the first time I used a trailer in months. The CVT definitely responds to load and gears down when accelerating, but when it slips back into overdrive I lost all the engine braking effect. I had to do a quick stop and... WHOA!!!! Good thing I had plenty of room! Lesson learned, use the overdrive lock!

As for highway driving, the CVT will sort of go into overdrive even with the O/D lock engaged. Reason: to protect the engine from high rev's. I already tried engaging the O/D lock at speeds from 90 to 130km/h... the engine revs up to about 5000rpms and stays there regardless of vehicle speed.

Post by **philipa_240sx** » Fri May 29, 2009 9:11 am

Oh, and the Rogue tows a trailer quite well. Most of the time I don't even notice it back there. If there is one downside, the Rogue's reduced rearward visibility makes it more difficult to back up.

Post by **kerrton** » Fri May 29, 2009 10:11 am

Thanks lot AGAIN Phil, I really can't stress enough how much I appreciate your informed responses all the time. It's one thing to want to be helpful and offer OPINIONS (as I try to do), but it is so much more helpful to offer solid information based on facts, which is what I always get from you. I wish we lived closer because I'm sure I owe you a ton of beers and probably an expensive dinner or two!!

My wiring kit should be here by Wednesday, after I get that hooked up I'm going to be hauling sod, excavated soil, rock, sand, and paving stones for a patio, so your advice will be well utilized.

Post by **gebenhoeh** » Sun Jun 21, 2009 10:47 am

Just got my Rogue SL, looking where to find the trailer 4 pin harness. Looked everywhere in the paperwork, no clue. Crawled under where hitch will go and could not see the wires or connector. PS- Also already have a chip on one of the wheels. Any info appreciated.

Post by **philipa_240sx** » Sun Jun 21, 2009 2:30 pm

gebenhoeh wrote:Just got my Rogue SL, looking where to find the trailer 4 pin harness. Looked everywhere in the paperwork, no clue. Crawled under where hitch will go and could not see the wires or connector. PS- Also already have a chip on one of the wheels. Any info appreciated.

The Rogue does not come from the factory with a trailer connector (flat 4). The 'pre-wire' mentioned in the literature is just a some wiring hidden underneath the rear cargo floor. You will need to purchase a lighting converter/harness to complete the wiring. Both Nissan and a couple of aftermarket vendors sell the convertor.

Information on the trailer wiring harness can be found in the Official Rogue FAQ. Here is the converter I recommend you purchase:

zer...51101

Good luck!

Post by **crayb** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 2:05 pm

09 SL, Received my Hidden Hitch #87457 today by FedEx. Bought from eBay for $124.00 with free shipping. Might do the wiring in the future.

Couldn't wait to get it on, so I went out in the 100 degree heat to install. Followed the included instructions and all went fairly easy. 19mm bolts removed from tie dow and it removed easily, placed hitch on ground and bolted driver side up loosely, first, then passenger then tightened and torqued everything down. OUCH!!!! that heat shield is really sharp. I was worried b/c it seemed that it sat too far in, but I had kept the ball from my Frontier and it gives plenty of clearance. Plus my bike rack fits nicely as well.

I was tempted by the d-ship to purchase the hitch and install ($500.00 quote) but I am SOOOO glad I didn't go that route. Nice quality, Class III mountable and easy install.

Ray

Post by **zengshengliu** » Fri Jul 10, 2009 2:06 pm

sirbikesalot wrote:So I got my hitch today from Curt Manufacturing via UPS and the first thing I noticed was that the end of the hitch had busted through the box and was sticking out. It looked ok until I went mount the hitch and found that the holes did not line up. I guess the Neanderthals at UPS must have really tried to drop it pretty hard because it was not easy to straighten. I got medieval on it with a big mallet and cloth.

After straightening it out I was back in business. I had to remove the tow hook, which you can see in the picture on the ground, as well as two other bolts holding a heat shield. I also released one of the rubber bands holding the exhaust to lower it a tad but I don't think this was necessary. It was fairly easy to finagle it in place and bolt up using a long socket to reach up there.

The hitch is fairly unobtrusive, which is good, but it sits fairly far in, enough so that after I mounted my Thule T2 rack, I immediately discovered that I couldn't fold it up <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://images.nicoclub.com/forums/image ... /frown.gif" BORDER="0"> One of the wheel holders contacts the bumper, preventing the rack from engaging in the vertical position. There are several solutions to this problem:1) Get an extender. This comes in an 8" length, probably too much for what I need. All I need is an extra 2".2) Cut part of the wheel holder away. Bike may be slightly less secure and the rack not look as nice, but it would fix the problem. 3) Drill a hole through the rack and use a pin to lock it in the angled position. It would be less convenient than the simple lever, but it would work.

There are other solutions, such as ordering a custom job from Curt Mfg and sending this one back or selling it, but then it's just more money.

Back to the rack. After adding the two bike extender and mounting four bikes, I found that it didn't lower the back end much. I estimate it was about 180lbs total of bikes + rack hanging off the back.

I found that I could open the hatch enough to access the cargo area without lowering the rack. If I lowered the rack I could open the tailgate all the way.

The full four-bike rack sticks out pretty far, but that's the price you pay for easy loading/unloading and not getting damaged from contact. I think it looks pretty good on the Rogue. I wonder what it is going to do to my fuel economy though. My large framed bikes with 29" wheels are tall enough that they protrude above the roof line and stick out past the sides of the car!

The hitch from Curt Mfg:

You can't even see the hitch bar:

Uh oh, contact:

Two bike rack:

Fully loaded with four bikes after 2 bike extender added:

I can open the gate enough to access the cargo area:

If I lower the rack I can open the gate all the way:

Concerns about fuel economy. Bikes extend above the top and beyond the sides of the vehicle:

I am using the exact same thing as sirbikesalot, except that I have a 8" extender. I heard that if you use extender, it will lower the towing capacity by half, so my question is, will it be too heavy for Rogue with the 4 bikes loaded?

Also, anyone has any suggestion for anti rattle / stabilizer? After I put in the 8" extender, the bike rack is shaking like crazy
Modified by zengshengliu at 7:02 AM 7/14/2009

Post by **Nick 568** » Fri Jul 10, 2009 8:15 pm

I do have a question about towing with the Rogue. I'm planning to get a snowmobile and a trailer this winter. All said and done, 800 lbs max.My question is though: I know you should generally tow with O/D off, however, my Rogue has the paddle shifters, so it does not have the O/D off button. So what should I do for towing? Shift it manually and keep it in a lower gear than normal?(It is an AWD model if that matters)
Modified by Nick 568 at 11:49 PM 7/10/2009

Post by **philipa_240sx** » Sat Jul 11, 2009 3:37 am

Although I am not a towing 'expert' I find using lower gearing helps with acceleration and provides some engine braking while slowing down/stopping. In addition, lower gearing places less stress on the engine and transmission.

I do use the overdrive lock at city driving speeds up to 40mph (65km/h). Above 40mph it's a compromise: I either use overdrive lock and live with +4000rpms (too high IMHO) or leave it off and run the motor in the 2000-2500 rpm range... a bit too low to give good power and gives no engine braking.

If you have the paddle/manual shift, it should be even better as you can more precisely control the gears. I would use the manual shift to keep the engine rpms in the sweet spot of 2500-4000rpm. If you need more power (ie. climbing a hill) then simply gear down.

Note: One of the benefits of the AWD model is the increased tow capacity (1500 vs. 1000lbs) and the secondary transmission oil cooler (FWD models only have one oil cooler).

A complete towing guide with driving tips can be found starting on pg 9-16 of your owners manual. Nissan also publishes a towing guide:

2009 Nissan Towing Guide2008 Nissan Towing Guide

Post by **kccruz2009** » Sat Jul 11, 2009 6:33 pm

your bike rack looked very nice on your rogue. I thought it's a Yakima but did not see that particular model in their list of hitch mount bike racks. Appreciate it very much if u could tell me where you got it. Pls advise all information etcetera about this bike rack of your. Thanks much

kccruz2009

[email protected]

Post by **Nick 568** » Sat Jul 11, 2009 7:30 pm

Thanks for the info, Philipa! That also explains why people kept mentioning a 1000lb tow limit when I thought it was 1500lbs. :

Post by **philipa_240sx** » Sun Jul 12, 2009 7:35 am

The rack pictured above (from Sirbikesalot) is a Thule T2:

I personally use the Yakima Bighorn.

You can find them in some of the big box stores, bike shops and specialty rack dealers. Here is the respective mfg. websites, you can find a list of dealers there:

http://www.thuleracks.com/http://www.yakima.com/

For online retailers, try:

Rackattack

They also have both US and Canada locations (bricks and mortar store).

Post by **nickgnelson** » Mon Sep 21, 2009 5:38 pm

Does anyone know if the 08-09 hitch is the same as the 2010 Rogue? I would assume it is, but just want to make sure before I order the curt hitch and harness. I take delivery of my new Rogue in two days and I need to put a hitch on for a bike rack and small trailer.

Post by **philipa_240sx** » Tue Sep 22, 2009 1:20 am

nickgnelson wrote:Does anyone know if the 08-09 hitch is the same as the 2010 Rogue?

The 2010 Rogue is the same as the '08 and '09 in regards to the hitch.

There have been reports of non-functioning wiring for the trailer light 'pre-wire'. This is usually due to a missing fuse.

You can read more about trailer light converters in the Official Rogue FAQ under Accessories and Modifications.

Post by **Robteesit** » Tue Sep 22, 2009 7:03 am

If I had that many bikes mounted on my vehicle I would be pulled over by the first cop that spoted me. It seems to block the tail lights (brake and signals) and extends too far from the back of the vehicle and blocks the rear vision. Do they make a light kit that would mount on the end of the rack for the brake and signal lights?

Trailer Hitch and Pre wire

Re: (philipa_240sx)

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