Trailer Hitch and Pre wire

Post by **SLAWDBlack** » Mon Jun 02, 2008 5:29 pm

I order my hitch from etrailers.com. It's a Curt Class III Trailer Hitch Receiver for $124.95. Free shipping on orders over $150. I also ordered a ballmount, hitch ball, pin & clip, and a rubber receiver cover. This put me a little over the $150 mark... so I got the free shipping. The hitch is not as boxy as the one from UHaul even though it is also a Curt hitch. It is mostly hidden under the bumper. You may want to check out etrailer.com for a hitch for your Rogue. It comes with real simple instructions. I installed it alone in about 30 minutes, just taking my time.

Post by **bill875** » Mon Jun 02, 2008 6:30 pm

I tried etrailers.com and got a error, but etrailer.com worked. Is that where you got it from? I checked and the Curt one shown is exactly the one I got via eBay (see link above) and the only difference was that it had a U-Haul sticker on it that peeled right off. It came directly from Curt in Wisconsin. I ordered it on Friday and received it today.

It does not look boxier. So I'm not sure what you mean. The picture on that eBay auction is NOT of the Rogue hitch. The one in the instructions link on that auction is. I just wanted others to know that they will get the same product if they go through the same seller I did.

Post by **Pescakl1** » Tue Jun 03, 2008 3:15 am

bill875 wrote:I just orded the hitch on eBay from seller capandhitch: http://cgi.ebay.com/eba...81494

I called the company and they said it is indeed a Curt Class III hitch, but the gentleman indicated that it will have a U-Haul sticker on it that is easily removable. Not bad for $119, shipped.

I ordered mine yesterday.

Bill875, thanks for the link, great find.

I emailed them to know if they have the Curt Mfg Class I/II. They answered right away telling me that it will be more expensive because they will have to order it for me, so I went with the class III hitch on ebay (there is only 1 lb difference between the two according to the Curt Mfg website, anyway).

Great customer service from Capandhitch.I hope to get mine before next weekend, depending of customs mostly.

Post by **SLAWDBlack** » Thu Jun 05, 2008 12:56 pm

bill875 wrote:I tried etrailers.com and got a error, but etrailer.com worked. Is that where you got it from? I checked and the Curt one shown is exactly the one I got via eBay (see link above) and the only difference was that it had a U-Haul sticker on it that peeled right off. It came directly from Curt in Wisconsin. I ordered it on Friday and received it today.

It does not look boxier. So I'm not sure what you mean. The picture on that eBay auction is NOT of the Rogue hitch. The one in the instructions link on that auction is. I just wanted others to know that they will get the same product if they go through the same seller I did.

Yes Bill, you are correct. The hitch, in the instruction set, is the same Curt Hitch I purchased from "etrailer.com". The instruction set is from Curt Manufacturing Inc.. The model number is also the same as the one I purchased. Good find!

Post by **bill875** » Thu Jun 05, 2008 4:58 pm

Yep, it's a good deal and so far, it seems that all of us are happy with the Curt and Curt (U-Haul Branded) hitch. These are the part numbers that fit the 2008 Rogue: 13185 Curt / 78277 Curt (U-Haul Branded) for anyone looking for them. They are so easy to install as long as you have the following tools:

3/8" DRIVE RATCHET3/8" DRIVE 8" EXTENSION (Very necessary)3/8" DRIVE TORQUE WRENCH8mm - 3/8" DRIVE SOCKET18mm - 3/8" DRIVE SOCKET19mm - 3/8" DRIVE SOCKET

The install instructions are currently located here: http://fileresource.sitepro.co...C.pdf

EDIT: I did NOT have to lower the exhaust. It just makes it easier if doing this by yourself.

Post by **Pescakl1** » Tue Jun 10, 2008 7:22 am

I received mine yesterday (In fact, my neighbour got it and bring it to me ).

Curt Mfg box with Curt Mfg invoice but two U-haul stickers on it (one for the warranty number, the other for the characteristics, so I will have to keep them on it ).

I will install it with one of my friend in two weekends at the same time as my back up sensor system ( a little bit of striptease for the Rogue ) and probably my FIRST oil change .

The three mods thanks to this forum

Post by **eric_c** » Thu Jun 12, 2008 2:32 am

We purchased a Rogue SL with the premium package partly because of the trailer pre-wire, but I'm unclear as to what this actually means. Do I only need a set of cables that I run to the back; no splicing, no converter? Where is the termination of the pre-wire?

philipa_240sx wrote:The Nissan USA website lists a seperate 4pin trailer wiring harness that is available for SL models with premium package.

http://www.nissanusa.com/rogue/accessories.html

Post by **Orphanedcowboy** » Thu Jun 12, 2008 3:01 am

Some one else posted the link to the Professional Wiring Products harness, so I ordered one for the Rogue, and it was a snap to install, took about 20 minutes. It was $52 shipped to the house and everything was plug and play.

http://www.professionalwiringp...770b0

Post by **philipa_240sx** » Thu Jun 12, 2008 3:03 am

This has been covered in a lot of posts. The pre-wire is not the actual trailer light harness. It appears to be nothing more than a power connector located underneath the bin with the tow hook. The connector is used to power the trailer light converter, 4-flat plug and harness. This is a separate part that must be purchased from the dealer and does not come pre-installed.

You can either purchase the part from Nissan at a hefty premium, or use one of the aftermarket options shown in the Rogue Summary Sticky at the top of the forum. The harness OrphanedCowboy shown above is the easiest most cost effective solution. I recommend it.

Post by **huknpuff** » Mon Jun 16, 2008 5:34 pm

I got the Drawtite 75606 2" receiver. I cannot mount my yakima rack without an extension. I wouldn't recommend it because of the lack of clearance. 6" extension on order pics soon. nice bikes especially the Turner MTN and Scott roadie.

Post by **Nakiskafam** » Tue Jun 17, 2008 12:19 pm

One option is to go with the factory 1-1/4" hitch with a 2" adapter. We already had a Swagman 3 bike carrier, and because of how the adapter extends out a bit, you can fully open the hatch with the bikes already loaded up. We just drove up to Whistler and back, and didn't have any problems with movement etc.

Post by **philipa_240sx** » Tue Jun 17, 2008 1:34 pm

There is an extensive post on hitch mounted bike racks here:

zerothread?id=283582

Post by **roguetoad** » Wed Jun 18, 2008 7:47 am

Sir Bikesalot said...

sirbikesalot wrote:So I got my hitch today from Curt Manufacturing via UPS and the first thing I noticed was that the end of the hitch had busted through the box and was sticking out. It looked ok until I went mount the hitch and found that the holes did not line up. I guess the Neanderthals at UPS must have really tried to drop it pretty hard because it was not easy to straighten. I got medieval on it with a big mallet and cloth.

After straightening it out I was back in business.

How far out of alignment was that hitch?

I got a Curt 2" from etrailer.com for my SLawd and, while I could get 5 of the six studs in, the sixth hole was off about 1/8", a lot for something that stout. It was the left side, forward hole and the outboard edge of the slot in the hitch is shy about 1/8 "

No combination of hole/studs, clamping, jacking, or levering the receiver will get it to line up. And I doubt that there's a way (shy of extreme heat) of bending that flange outward enough to get all studs in.

The was no damage to the shipping carton. No marks on the hitch as well.

Am waiting for the etrailer installer to call me back to see if he/she has any advice. I don't want to get Neanderthalic with it since it's not damaged, just not manufactured accurately. Too bad, I though Curt was supposed to be a pretty good hitch. But I've never had anything off like this with Reese, Hidden, or others. went for the Curt as it looked like it might stick out a bit further to the rear.

If anyone has any tips, please fire away. They'll be most appreciated.

Post by **philipa_240sx** » Wed Jun 18, 2008 10:24 am

Oops, I totally forgot about this. I did indeed find one bolt hole misaligned on my Curt Hitch. The steel is far too thick to bend back, so I just reamed the offending bolt hole with round hand file. A few minutes gave me the 1/8" I needed and the problem was solved. I didn't give it a second thought... it wasn't worth the trouble to bring the hitch back.

Seeing as you had the same problem, it may actually be a design or QC issue.

Post by **roguetoad** » Wed Jun 18, 2008 2:24 pm

Thought about doing that. If you got 1/8" with a rat tail, then that metal is softer than I thought. Decided to wait in case the filing dinged my return ability. Yes, returning is a hassle. But, shaving 1/8 off the hole doesn't leave a lot of shoulder room IMO...even with six mounts.

The Etrailer installer guy asked me to try to bend the hitch, but, as you said, that metal is much too thick, plus the gusseting.

He also asked me to measure the distance from lead and trailing hole centers to compare to other hitches they have on hand (Reese, Hidden, and other Curts). I should hear from him tomorrow.

Indeed, it is looking like a Curt QC issue. Too Bad!

Stay tuned.

Post by **roguetoad** » Thu Jun 19, 2008 5:31 am

ETrailer.com is shipping a replacement as some of the wholes in the original Curt were off by 3/8"! That's an awful lot.

The good news is that Etrailer.com has handled this very well and so far I'm quite satisfied with their efforts.

So, Curt is aware of the problem, but I'd suggest if you do order a Curt 2" for the Rogue, be sure the hitch is verified for the correct hole distance as confirmed after 19 June, 2008. Hitches made before then may not be correct. At this point we're not sure how many of their production run are incorrect.

Post by **hitch guy** » Tue Jun 24, 2008 8:43 am

Which hole is off? If you could provide pictures that would be great. The Class 2 and Class 3 hitch measurements are both the same.

Post by **roguetoad** » Tue Jun 24, 2008 8:57 am

A picture wouldn't show it too well.

If you're looking at the hitch from above, standing to the rear of the receiver, with the top of the hitch up: One mine the holes furthest aft (closest to you) measured about 42 3/8" center to center, the wholes furthest forward (furthest away from you) measured about 42" apart.

Note that these numbers are approximate and may be off a smidge. THe point is that with studs mounted on all three holes on the frames right (passenger) side, and the aft two studs mounted in the holes on the left frame, the forward hole was off by 3/8".

Note that the frame is to strong to bend it into alignment. (Don't use heat!)

The good news is the Etrailer had a correct one in my hands within a week. It aligned perfectly and only took about 1/2 hour to install.

Tomorrow I hope to install the finished wiring harness.

My thanks to Etrailer for such prompt and good service with this matter.

Post by **hitch guy** » Tue Jun 24, 2008 9:08 am

All three holes should measure 42.500" center to center, and the side plates should be 90° with the main body. The outside of side plate to outside of side plate measurement should be 44.250. The weldnuts that the 12mm -1.25-35mm bolts fasten to should be a straight line. If this is not the case we do have an issue.Shannon

Post by **hitch guy** » Tue Jun 24, 2008 9:51 am

Also when installing this hitch, did you start the bolts on the passenger side. Then start the bolts on the driver. Or did you tighten the bolts on the passenger side, then try to get the bolts to align on the drivers side. This is often the issue.

Post by **roguetoad** » Thu Jun 26, 2008 1:50 pm

As i said above the forward holes were off 3/8". very obvious no matter which side went on first. And no, one should leave the first studs a bit loose until all are securely threaded. Cab;t adjust if any are tight before all are in.

The replacement hitch measured 42.5 and went in without any problem.

Post by **sirbikesalot** » Thu Jun 26, 2008 2:44 pm

It was nearly 1/2" out of alignment I believe. I found the end brackets with the holes bend fairly easily. I could just take a rubber mallet and wack it on the end to realign it. After that one was destroyed in the wreck (no way I could bend that hitch back), I ordered a new one and it also needed a little nudging with the rubber mallet. I stuck with Curt because that hitch saved my car from getting much more heavily damaged. It took the full force of the collision and absorbed it by bending inward. I was worried about hanging four bikes off of it - not anymore seeing how that hitch held up. Maybe their jig/template or whatever they use during manufacture is off.

Post by **hitch guy** » Fri Jun 27, 2008 2:52 am

The Weld Fixture measures 42.5 at the studs for all three holes. It has been checked for squareness. Every hitch that is manufactured, is measured twice with a measurement jig. We are currently working on improving the packaging. Because we are finding this is where the hitches are becoming bent during shipment. Causing installment issues. Thank You for making us aware of the issues you were seeing. Feel free to contact me with any improvements or questions.Shannon EngelCURT Manufacturing INCQuality Control

Post by **philipa_240sx** » Fri Jun 27, 2008 3:10 am

Mine was only off 1/8" of an inch. at the front most holes (furtheest from the receiver). After hearing both hitch guy and sirbikesalot's posts, I can understand how the hitch may be wacked out of alignment during shipping. This is not suprising seeing how some courier companies treat packages. I once received a package that had tire marks from a tow motor. My Curt Hitch did come with a few scuff marks and very minimal packaging. While I applaud the reduction of packaging material (who needs more plastic!), there must be a better way to protect the hitch during transport.

Installation issues aside, I still like the product and would by another one.

Post by **SLAWDBlack** » Sun Jun 29, 2008 4:18 pm

I also installed a Curt Class III hitch purchased from etrailer.com. The hitch installed perfectly. I was also able to install it alone...at the time I really had no choice. I installed the passenger side first ...didn't fully tighten the bolts...then installed the driver's side...then tightened all bolts. The shipping box was very damaged...the hitch was sticking out on one side. Initially I was concerned that the hardware may have fallen out of the box but was pleasantly surprised when I opened and found everything taped tightly together. I was surprised to hear of the problems others are having with their install. Mine went smoothly. Very pleased with the hitch from Curt.I also installed the wiring harness from Professional Wiring Products. I was a little hesitant to do this since I was pondering why Nissan wanted $140 for the harness and Professional Wiring Products wanted $50 for their's... think there must be something missing. Not the case! The install took me about 45 minutes. Just a note that you may want to purchase a few spare door trim clips from your dealer...when removing the sill trim I snapped 2 clips and had to replace them. I was very pleased with both products and I thank this forum for all the information it provided.

Post by **mmihm** » Fri Aug 01, 2008 5:48 pm

I purchased the professional Wiring Products T-Connector only to find out that I don't have the two pin power source to plug into. I don't have the premium package. I tried to find a wire for constant power but was unable to locate one. Anybody know where there is one that I could hardwire the power plug to?

Post by **SLAWDBlack** » Sat Aug 02, 2008 3:53 am

mmihm wrote:I purchased the professional Wiring Products T-Connector only to find out that I don't have the two pin power source to plug into. I don't have the premium package. I tried to find a wire for constant power but was unable to locate one. Anybody know where there is one that I could hardwire the power plug to?

This thread zerothread/333642 contains a picture of the 2 pin connector. I would think that you would need to recreate this factory setup. The power Source must be in the harness. Just a thought.

Post by **pedror** » Sat Aug 02, 2008 6:33 am

I ordered a Curt class III hitch from cap&hitch via eBay (free shipping to US & Canada). Although it has a UHaul label, it's still a Curt product. Took only 2 days from order to delivery; hitch was fully boxed and in perfect condition.

Took about 40 minutes to install (including a 5 minute search for my 8" ratchet extension, a must have) and all holes aligned perfectly. Very happy with ease of install, and quality of product.

Now to find the right bike rack!

Post by **mmihm** » Fri Aug 15, 2008 11:01 am

Thanks for the info. I ended up taking the Rogue into the dealer because I couldn't find a power source. They had the same trouble when they tried installing the wiring as well and had to call their tech help. They basically came back and said there is no way to connect the wiring without having the premium package with factory wiring installed.

I guess I will have to find somebody to do an aftermarket install and run new power source to the back.

Post by **philipa_240sx** » Fri Aug 15, 2008 2:43 pm

mmihm wrote:Thanks for the info. I ended up taking the Rogue into the dealer because I couldn't find a power source. They had the same trouble when they tried installing the wiring as well and had to call their tech help. They basically came back and said there is no way to connect the wiring without having the premium package with factory wiring installed.

I guess I will have to find somebody to do an aftermarket install and run new power source to the back.

You shouldn't have to do run a seperate power source. I don't have the premium package (SL FWD, no options) and the power connector was on my vehicle. It's on the left hand side of the cargo area, underneath the plastic bin that holds the jack & tools. Please read the following threads for more info:

DIY Trailer wiring using generic trailer lighting converter (this shows pics of my vehicle):zerothread/333642

No splice trailer wiring using aftermarket kit:zer...51101

Trailer Hitch and Pre wire

Re: (SLAWDBlack)

Re: (bill875)

Re: (bill875)

Re: (SLAWDBlack)

Re: (bill875)

Re: Trailer Hitch and Pre wire (philipa_240sx)

Re: (Orphanedcowboy)

Re: Hitches

Re: Hitches (Nakiskafam)

Re: Trailer Hitch and Pre wire (sirbikesalot)

Re: Trailer Hitch and Pre wire (roguetoad)

Re: Trailer Hitch and Pre wire (philipa_240sx)

Re: Trailer Hitch and Pre wire (roguetoad)

Re: Trailer Hitch and Pre wire (roguetoad)

Re: Trailer Hitch and Pre wire (hitch guy)

Re: Trailer Hitch and Pre wire (roguetoad)

Re: Trailer Hitch and Pre wire (hitch guy)

Re: Trailer Hitch and Pre wire (hitch guy)

Re: Trailer Hitch and Pre wire (roguetoad)

Re: Trailer Hitch and Pre wire (sirbikesalot)

Re: Trailer Hitch and Pre wire (hitch guy)

Re: Trailer Hitch and Pre wire (philipa_240sx)

Re: (Orphanedcowboy)

Re: (mmihm) Power Source

Re: Trailer Hitch and Pre wire (SLAWDBlack)

Re: (mmihm) Power Source (SLAWDBlack)

Re: (mmihm)

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