Trailer Hitch and Pre wire

Post by **blaruffa** » Tue Nov 27, 2007 4:56 am

Thanks for the information.

Post by **Ticmxman** » Mon Feb 04, 2008 2:09 pm

Ticmxman wrote:I ordered mine tonight. We will see how the Yakima hookup bike rack works on the rogue.

Here is the final rack solution.

[IMG]I had to add an extension to get the clearance I needed.https://forum-attachments.sfo2.digital ... 0.jpg[/IMG]

So with the extention the hatch opens in all rack postions and with a bike on the end mount the hatch just clears. Lucy seems to approve.

Post by **jsellberg** » Wed Feb 06, 2008 6:24 am

i got my rogue from the factory with trailer hitch/prewire. i didnt think it came with the hitch part but above my spare tire was the box with the insert / whatever in it. i'm probably just going to use it for a bike rack though as the rogues towing capacity is laughable. ;x

Post by **philipa_240sx** » Mon Mar 03, 2008 10:09 am

Resurrecting this post...

It appears most of the major hitch mfg's now have a hitch available:

Hidden Hitch:

Part no: 87457
Class III& IV with 2" receiver
Notes: Appears to mount behind rear bumper. Only the reciever is visible. No cutting or drilling.

http://www.hiddenhitch.com/

Drawtite:

Part no: 75606
Class III/IV with 2" receiver
Notes: It is not clear how this hitch mounts. Part or all of the hitch may be visible.

http://www.draw-tite.com/

Reese:

Part no: 44592
Class III/IV with 2" receiver
Notes: Appears to mount partly below bumper.

http://www.reeseprod.com/

Curt Mfg:

Part no: 12247
Class I/II with 1.25" receiver
Notes: Mounts behind bumper, only receiver is visible.

Part no: 13185
Class III/IV with 2" receiver
Notes: Mounts behind bumper, only receiver is visible.

http://www.curtmfg.com

Nissan:

Part no: 999T5-GT010
Class I with 1.25" receiver

Post by **SUV_driver** » Sat Apr 26, 2008 8:56 am

Did you just order the extension from the same place? I think my Thule Revolver Bike rack is going to have the same problem but I don't want to go through the installation of the receiver only to find that I should have ordered the extension also. After all that work I don't want to have to wait for another part to come in before I can use my bike rack.

Post by **philipa_240sx** » Sat Apr 26, 2008 3:55 pm

If you look closely at the photos from sirbikesalot, you will notice his bike rack works without the extension;

The only issue is it wouldn't fold up. Assuming the design is similar, you should be OK with Thule. Worst case, you may not be able to mount a bike on the position closest to the hatch.

I personally use a Yakima BigHorn 4 bike rack and the same Curt Mfg hitch sirbikesalot does. It fits with no issues... save for the fact I must use the tilt down feature of the rack to access the hatch.

Post by **The Gambler** » Tue Apr 29, 2008 9:06 am

Anyone else have the problem of when you put a ball or extender on the hitch that it hits a bolt right in the middle of the bumper? The bike rack that I have is not long enough to make it past the bumper so I need to use the extender to put it out far enough.

Post by **froger25** » Mon May 05, 2008 4:47 am

It looks like the 4 bikes really didn't lower the back end at all. It looks like you have about 3 inches of clearance in the wheel well. I am going to order a Class III 2" myself for a bike rack and also for a cargo carrier. Just need a bit more room than the back offers for luggage from time to time. Sirbikesalot did you use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts to the specific torque in the directions or did you just estimate it?

Post by **philipa_240sx** » Mon May 05, 2008 5:24 am

The Gambler wrote:Anyone else have the problem of when you put a ball or extender on the hitch that it hits a bolt right in the middle of the bumper? The bike rack that I have is not long enough to make it past the bumper so I need to use the extender to put it out far enough.

No, I do not have that problem. My rack gives plenty of room without hitting the bumper.

froger25 wrote:irbikesalot did you use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts to the specific torque in the directions or did you just estimate it?

I had and used a torque wrench, but IMHO it's not necessary. Just get them fairly tight and recheck them in a week or two to make sure they did not loosen. The Curt Hitch comes with new bolts and lock washers. BTW, there is no need to drop the exhaust to get the hitch on... you can manouvre around it.

Here is my setup: Curt 1.25" hitch with Yakima Bighorn rack. Note: the rack comes with straps for 4 bikes, I have removed 2 for ease of loading since I only carry 2 bikes.

Hatch door will not open with rack up:

I can tilt the rack down and open the hatch. I don't recommend (and neither does Yakima) doing this with the rack loaded as it's quite heavy and could damage the bikes or vehicle.

If you want the capability of hatch access with bikes loaded, then try the Thule rack Sirbikesalot has.

Post by **wowbagga** » Mon May 05, 2008 7:44 am

Hi people,Will I be able to tow an 800 pound Sea-Doo jetski with my wife's 2WD Rogue? What hitch do you suggest I buy if so? I read this thread and would appreciate some advice.thanks

Post by **philipa_240sx** » Mon May 05, 2008 8:13 am

In theory both the 1.25" receiver class I/II or the 2" receiver class III/IV hitch would work as they all are capable of handling 2000+lbs. This is much more than what the Rogue is rated for.

I use the 1.25" class I/II version as I already had a 1.25" bike rack. I have also towed a 5x10 landscape trailer with no issues. However, the beefier 2" class III/IV gives you access to a wider selection of ball platform heights which helps to match the hitch to trailer height. This would be my choice. It seems if the trailer is not level (and even worse pointed down in the front) it does not handle well. Maybe those more experienced with towing could answer why this happens?

Post by **Goblin** » Tue May 06, 2008 4:27 pm

Here's my hitch and DrawTite Bike Rack. It also folds forward for the hatch to open but I forgot to take some pictures. I had to move the vertical mounting bar back on the later holes and rebolt it due to needing the clearance for the bumper. Thankfully it was made to do so, so I didn't have to drill holes or buy an extension.

Post by **RiverRogue** » Wed May 07, 2008 4:41 am

Next week I will.

Post by **philipa_240sx** » Wed May 07, 2008 12:25 pm

I must say, I have never seen someone use a bike rack like that... vertically mounting the bikes. I guess it helps with those narrow parking spots?

Goblin wrote:Here's my hitch and DrawTite Bike Rack.

Post by **Goblin** » Wed May 07, 2008 2:45 pm

Too Funny! I purchased the rack off CL and received no instruction. The only way I can get the bikes to sit on the darn thing is the way you see here. Believe it or not they are secure. The Drawtite is a single pole with a plate that screws down over the two bikes. Not very flexible with mounting.

Looks like this

Post by **philipa_240sx** » Wed May 07, 2008 4:25 pm

Yes, I have seen those racks before. I noticed the bike at the back has full suspension... that makes mounting more tricky. If it works for you then go for it.

Post by **BillLewis** » Thu May 08, 2008 9:14 am

I'm in the same boat (or motrocycle) I'm ordering a Rogue with the Premium package and towing package. Once and a while I would like to tow my 4 X8 400lb landscape trailer with my 800 bike on it. am I better off getting the tow setup from Nissan of should I go with an aftermarket class II hitch and aftermarket wiring harness ?

How do you guys think the engine and CVT trans will haul this setup? Its only once or twice a year I do this.

ThanksBill in NJ

Post by **philipa_240sx** » Thu May 08, 2008 3:30 pm

I think it will be fine for occasional use. So long as you do not grossly exceed the tow rating.

Post by **boooey** » Thu May 29, 2008 11:51 am

I am now also thinking about getting a hitch to carry some mountain bikes around.

Uhaul now has a Class 3 - 2" hitch for the Rogue on their website also for $144

Type: Square Tube 2 inch Rec.Class: 3Finish: BlackMax weight: 3500Max distribution weight: 4000

I was wondering how much it would impact my gas mileage

Post by **philipa_240sx** » Thu May 29, 2008 12:02 pm

Get the Curt Mfg hitch (Sold by Hidden Hitch dealers). It's a very nice unit.

The hitch itself has zero impact on fuel economy as it fits underneath the bumper. The bike rack with bicycles attached will add drag and affect your fuel economy a bit. I expect maybe 1-2 mpg. I will let you know as I go on a 2500km/1500mi trip to Eastern Canada this summer... with my mountain bikes and rack attached to the Rogue for the entire trip.

Post by **boooey** » Thu May 29, 2008 12:07 pm

philipa_240sx wrote:Get the Curt Mfg hitch (Sold by Hidden Hitch dealers). It's a very nice unit.

The hitch itself has zero impact on fuel economy as it fits underneath the bumper. The bike rack with bicycles attached will add drag and affect your fuel economy a bit. I expect maybe 1-2 mpg. I will let you know as I go on a 2500km/1500mi trip to Eastern Canada this summer... with my mountain bikes and rack attached to the Rogue for the entire trip.

I really do not want to attempt install myself or I would most likely go with the Curt Mfg Hitch.Is it difficult to install?

I just got off the phone with a local Uhaul dealer, and they quoted me a price of $182 for the hitch+install.

Post by **philipa_240sx** » Thu May 29, 2008 12:47 pm

The hitch bolts on with 6 bolts. There are detailed instructions that comes with the hitch. So long as you have a metric socket set and possibly a car jack to support the weight of the hitch while you bolt it up, it shouldn't take more than 15-20minutes.

If you are shy of wrenching though, $182 isn't such a bad deal.

BTW, not a big fan of UHaul. Try a place that sells hitches like an RV dealer.

Post by **Orphanedcowboy** » Thu May 29, 2008 2:43 pm

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...1990&

I just bought one on Tuesday, arrived at my house Wednesday. It is listed as a U-haul hitch, but it was a Curt. I plan on installing it tomorrow, and as stated before it is a very well constructed hitch.

Post by **Pescakl1** » Fri May 30, 2008 4:55 am

I don't want to take too much bandwith on that, but can someone explain the differences between Class I, Class II, and Class III hitch?

In the future, I want to install one on my Rogue to carry bikes at the back (easier to write than to say ) and some times to times tow a small trailer (the 500lb class which don't require wiring).

On previous cars, the hitch was installed by an aftermarket company so I don't what were those hitches (they are good and fast but don't want to talk to you: You want a hitch?, pay, it is done, bye, next!).

Thanks.

Post by **philipa_240sx** » Fri May 30, 2008 5:14 am

Hitches for the Rogue are available in either Class I,II,III, or IV. Sometimes mfgs will combine the ratings ie, I/II or III/IV.

Any of these hitch classes far exceed the towing capacity of the Rogue so they will all work. Which one you choose is largely a matter of preference. I have a class I/II as the 1-1/4" receiver is lower profile, it comes with a ball mount, and I already had a bike rack with a 1-1/4" connection. The class III/IV 2" receiver may be a bit more study, but it's a bit more noticeable and you have to purchase the ball mount seperately. On the plus side, the ball mounts for class II/IV's are available in several drop/riser heights so you can match it to your trailer.

Class I- Rated up to 2000 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a maximum trailer tongue weight (TW) of 200 lbs.- 1-1/4" square receiver opening. Although some older types have a flat bar type receiver.

Class II- Rated up to 3500 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a maximum trailer tongue weight (TW) of 300 lbs.- 1-1/4" square receiver opening.

Class III- Weight carrying (WC) and weight distributing (WD) types- WC types are rated up to 6000 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a maximum trailer tongue weight (TW) of 600 lbs.- WD types are rated up to 10,000 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a maximum trailer tongue weight (TW) of 1000 lbs.- 2" square receiver opening.

Class IV- Weight carrying (WC) and weight distributing (WD) types- WC types are rated up to 10,000 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a maximum trailer tongue weight (TW) of 1000 lbs.- WD types are rated up to 14,000 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a maximum trailer tongue weight (TW) of 1400 lbs.- 2" square receiver opening.

Class V- Weight carrying (WC) and weight distributing (WD) types- WC types are rated up to 12,000 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a maximum trailer tongue weight (TW) of 1200 lbs.- WD types are rated up to 17,000 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a maximum trailer tongue weight (TW) of 1700 lbs.- 2-1/2" square receiver opening.

Post by **Pescakl1** » Fri May 30, 2008 6:17 am

Thanks for the answer: It is complete and detailed

After writing my question, I noticed that I did not read all the thread ... which answered my question

Since, I have to put 4 bikes instead of 2 like you, I will probably be safer to take the 2" hitch even if my bike rack (Thule I think) comes with a 1 1/4" bar (and a 2" plastic piece to mount on the bar for the 2" hitch anyway).

It sounds more stable and will not worry my wife, I think (we had a bad experience with it on her car).And after a while, I usually forget that I have the bikes behind and start driving as usual .

Is there a big difference, weight wise, between a 1 1/4" hitch and a 2"? Do you think it is noticeable?

Post by **boooey** » Fri May 30, 2008 6:27 am

Orphanedcowboy wrote: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...1990&

I just bought one on Tuesday, arrived at my house Wednesday. It is listed as a U-haul hitch, but it was a Curt. I plan on installing it tomorrow, and as stated before it is a very well constructed hitch.

how did you know it was a Curt hitch when buying it?

Post by **philipa_240sx** » Fri May 30, 2008 7:49 am

The photo gave it away. The Curt label is right on the hitch.

That is a good price BTW. I paid $135 CDN for my class I/II Curt Hitch.

Post by **bill875** » Fri May 30, 2008 9:45 am

I just orded the hitch on eBay from seller capandhitch: http://cgi.ebay.com/eba...81494

I called the company and they said it is indeed a Curt Class III hitch, but the gentleman indicated that it will have a U-Haul sticker on it that is easily removable. Not bad for $119, shipped.

Post by **Orphanedcowboy** » Fri May 30, 2008 3:42 pm

Mine didn't have a U-haul sticker on it, just the Curt Sticker

Trailer Hitch and Pre wire

Re: Trailer Hitch and Pre wire (sirbikesalot)

Re: Trailer Hitch and Pre wire (Ticmxman)

Re: Trailer Hitch and Pre wire (Ticmxman)

Re: Trailer Hitch and Pre wire (jsellberg)

Re: Trailer Hitch and Pre wire (Ticmxman)

Re: Trailer Hitch and Pre wire (SUV_driver)

Re: Trailer Hitch and Pre wire (philipa_240sx)

Re: Trailer Hitch and Pre wire (sirbikesalot)

Re: Trailer Hitch and Pre wire (froger25)

Re: (wowbagga)

Re: (wowbagga)

Re: Trailer Hitch and Pre wire (computerguy)

Re: (Goblin)

Re: (philipa_240sx)

Re: (Goblin)

Re: Trailer Hitch and Pre wire (amr40509)

Re: Trailer Hitch and Pre wire (BillLewis)

Re: (wowbagga)

Re: (boooey)

Re: (philipa_240sx)

Re: (boooey)

Re: (philipa_240sx)

Re: (Orphanedcowboy)

Re: (Pescakl1)

Re: (philipa_240sx)

Re: (Orphanedcowboy)

Re: (boooey)

Re: (philipa_240sx)

Re: (bill875)

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