sirbikesalot wrote:
The hitch is fairly unobtrusive, which is good, but it sits fairly far in, enough so that after I mounted my Thule T2 rack, I immediately discovered that I couldn't fold it up One of the wheel holders contacts the bumper, preventing the rack from engaging in the vertical position. There are several solutions to this problem:1) Get an extender. This comes in an 8" length, probably too much for what I need. All I need is an extra 2".2) Cut part of the wheel holder away. Bike may be slightly less secure and the rack not look as nice, but it would fix the problem. 3) Drill a hole through the rack and use a pin to lock it in the angled position. It would be less convenient than the simple lever, but it would work.

There are other solutions, such as ordering a custom job from Curt Mfg and sending this one back or selling it, but then it's just more money.

Uh oh, contact:

In searching for (almost exactly) the same set up, I did find an option that only someone with a 1 1/4" receiver would be able to put into use. A 1 1/4" to 2" adapter (http://www.etrailer.com/pc-HA~80303.htm) would run you around $40 and should give you the clearance to fold the rack to the full upright position while not in use.

Personally I would stick with the 2" receiver and make do with what I have. drilling a hole and getting a lock pin for $1.50 is preferable to that extra $40.

I will submit this information to our engineering department.

Please don't try returning this hitch and getting a custom made hitch. Curt Manufacturing does not Custom Make hitches. With this hitch in particular the receiver tube is already 9" long. Any longer it will greatly decrease the weight capacity of the hitch, do to the cantilever affect.

What is the length of the shank on that bike rack from Pin hole to end?

Shannon Quality Control TechnicianCurt Manufacturing Inc.Eau Claire, WI

Just finished my install of: 08 09 10 Nissan Rogue Receiver Trailer Hitch 13185(Curt) from hitchbiz on ebay 132 bucks shipped. I had the misaligned hole on the hitch passengerside off about 8th of an inch. I was upset with the lack of packing to protect the hitch. Will upload pics to show the damage to the package, not sure who repacked it FedEx or hitchbiz. I ended up going the round file method... All in all it took 30 mins to install by myself, no jackstands needed. have pics to upload just need to read up on how to post them. This forum had been a great help.

wowbagga wrote:Hi people,Will I be able to tow an 800 pound Sea-Doo jetski with my wife's 2WD Rogue? What hitch do you suggest I buy if so? I read this thread and would appreciate some advice.thanks

Hi there, yes the Rogue towing capaciaty is rated at 1000 lbs, so you should be able to tow the jet ski no problem. With most towing applications the issue is the load in addition to the base weight of the trailer. Ex. utility trailer weighs 500 pounds, but the weight of yard waste such as sod, soil branches etc. is tough to estimate, but can quickly get above the total 1000 lb limit (sod and soil is very heavy especially when wet!). But with a SeaDoo you should be fine, provided you've calculated the weight of the trailer and the jet ski.

We have a lot of anecdotes of people who have towed with their Rogue within the 1000 lb limit and everyone has been very impressed with how the Rogue performs. A good piece of advice is to use the "Overdrive Off" button when accelerating from a stop to keep the CVT tranny in a low gear - this will minimize the load on the tranny. And of course take it slow and once you hit cruising speed hit the "OD off" button again to allow the tranny to shift into high gear ratio.

As for hitches, I've got the Nissan hitch which I installed myself, it is very discreet and well hidden, but others have installed the Curt hitch and been very happy with it. I think the common advice is to stay away from the UHaul hitches, although I can't exactly why other than owner experience. If you read all the previous posts in the this thread by owners who have towed with your Rogue, it will give you all of the info. that you need. Also, have a look at this thread too:

post5655045.html?hilit=rogue%20tow#p5655045

Just got in my trailer wiring harness from TES Towing Electrical Systems Inc. :-) Gonna install this weekend.
Professional Wiring Products p/n 64150

Received my Curt hitch (13185) today. There was a bit of the hitch poking out of the box. Otherwise, the packaging was in good shape. I'm going to install it later tonight, so we'll see if the hitch is out of alignment any.

Update: Hitch was a tad bit out of alignment. Primarily had issues with the 3rd bolts (the ones furthest from the bumper and closest to the front of the vehicle). Wasn't too much of an issue though, I just had to loosen up the side that was giving me trouble (driver's side) and get the 3rd bolt started first.

Also, man was the harness (the Professional Wiring Products one) install a pain... Only broke 1 of the body panel clips, but it was still a lot of work.

Now to get a trailer... Going to get a 2-place aluminum snowmobile trailer for my 2 snowmobiles. All said and done, I should be right at the 1500 lbs limit.

It tows it pretty well. Going out this weekend for a trip, so I'll be able to get some MPG numbers.
To be honest, I'm probably closer to 1600 lbs with the snowmobiles' tanks gassed up. (12 gal tanks each)

Cool, let us know how it handles, pulling it won't be an issue I'm sure....I'm interested how stable it will be and braking on snow and ice should be interesting - what kind of tires are you running?

I've towed it around town a bit with both sleds (just to the gas station and back though) and it pulls it just fine. You certainly notice it's there, but it's nothing like when I was towing my friend's Pathfinder back into town with my Dodge Ram a few years ago. (in that even with the 5.9L, it slowed the vehicle down considerably)
As for tires, I'm running Hancook iPike studded tires on my Rogue, and the trailer is running on what look to me to basically be golf cart tires. (all the tires on the 2-place trailers I've seen around here run the same tires) Which I still don't understand since golf cart tires are rated to like 35 mph... But, everyone does just fine on them, so whatever.
7 more hours till I get to head out of town!

Nick 568 wrote:Also, man was the harness (the Professional Wiring Products one) install a pain... Only broke 1 of the body panel clips, but it was still a lot of work.

Most of the work is in removing the body panels. The installation of the harness itself is quite simple.

I lost a few of my body panel clips in the process... doesn't seem to be a big deal though.

Yeah, I meant removing the body panels. Didn't have any trouble plugging in the harness. I did pull the fuse box in the engine bay to put a fuse in for the trailer circuit because I was expecting there not to be one. On my 2008 Rogue SL w/ Premium Package, the fuse was already installed, and the circuit was ready to go.

Ok, tow report: drove 150 miles north, mostly flat ground, but a good amount of hills too. Temp: 5-20 degrees
Averaged ~16 MPG there at an average speed of 55 mph
Averaged ~13.5 MPG on the way back at an average speed of 65 mph.

10 mph makes a pretty big difference in the fuel economy when you're towing right at the limit. I probably could've gotten at least 20 MPG at an average of 45 mph.
But yeah, it didn't do too bad. Wasn't ever above 3000 rpm when cruising (except when going up hills), and was usually around 2500 rpm or less. So I can say the Rogue tows a 1600 lb load fairly well, I'm pleased to report.

I'm glad someone tried pulling 2 sleds before I needed too - espcially with that polaris triple and yami mountain (not the two of lightest sleds around).
I was a little concerned about the weight of two sleds with fuel and snow. Also, with the slush guard on the front, it probably makes the pulling aspect a little tougher yet.

Almost loaded up my friend's '05 RMK 900 159 track instead of the Polaris XLT, but I'm sure it still would've been fine.
One thing to keep in mind though, that's an all aluminum trailer (deck material is wood though) that weighs under 500 lbs...I think; I have yet to get it weighed, lol. I wouldn't recommend trying to pull a 2-place steel trailer w/ sleds with the Rogue.

What sled(s) do you have, by the way?

I'll also be pulling a two place aluminun with a wood deck. I won't have the slush guards on the fron though and if I do, they only the ski catchers so the wind resistance on them is pretty low.

I ride a 2006 Yamaha Nytro.

Oh okay, yeah, I imagine you'd be fine.

And very nice! I want to try to get a 07 or newer Nytro next summer. (when I'll have enough money and the sleds are cheaper)

Hey, all. Just bought a 2011 Juke SV AWD a few weeks ago. Love it, but to date there are no accessories for it. Draw-Tite says they have no plans for a hitch for it, some other hitch mfrs say wait a couple of months. If I have to have instant gratification, U-Haul has a custom-build program, but the cost is $450 !

Thule says they will probably have a fit kit (P/N 1619) for a roof rack in January.

Happy Holidays

Hello DaveR00121!

I posted my reply in the Juke forum as I am sure many other Juke owners will be interested. You can find it here:

can-you-tow-a-trailer-with-the-juke-t516224.html

Hey, the 2011 rogue SL i bought came standard with the "tow prewiring"...whatever that means. and I saw now option to add a hitch in the accessories. Does this mean it already has the hitch, or am i forced to buy it separately?

of the point but...Why does it say SL on the back of the 2011 rogue when you get the sl package? shouldnt it just say SV..since when do cars have the Package you added printed on the back of the car? Im just saying...

Hi there. The hitch "pre-wiring" has been discussed at length in this forum, if you just go to the first page and skim through it will be worth your time.

In short, pre-wiring does not include the hitch itself, you'll have to order it from an aftermarket provider or you should be able to order an OEM hitch from Nissan which is what I did (actually my wife got it for me for Christmas a couple years ago). Even though you have the pre-wiring, you still need to purchase a wiring harness to wire up your hitch (unless they've changed things with the 2011 model, all I can comment on is the 08-10 model years). So basically, the pre-wiring has been a big disappointment and most owners still haven't been able to figure out what this includes. You could try asking your service dept. for more info. on this as well.

If you're looking to purchase a hitch, look in this thread for some good discussion on sources. Good luck.

Just ordered my new Curt Class III hitch from TheHitchStore.com. I just wanted to say that the information in this forum was invaluable in assisting me making the right decision, and assuring me that I will be able to easily install the hitch. I also want to recommend the The Hitch Store, as these people were very professional and seem to have the best prices around (and a distribution center in Canada too:-)

I guess I could have asked this on my last post - did not realize that the hitch and bike rack threads were the same.

Anyway, I was looking for feedback on the Softride Element hitch mounted bike rack:
http://www.softride.com/rack-products/s ... _bike_rack

One of the things that I like the best about this rack is the parallelogram design that allows folding of the rack away from the vehicle without removing the bikes.

I also found a Nissan Rogue review on youtube where the reviewer has a Softride rack installed, and even demos how it folds away: [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1UYZ6ONxkFQ[/youtube]

Any feedback on this or any other hitch mounted rack would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

hitchweb.com has a trailer hitch search guide on their website where you can enter in your vehicle application and every hitch made for that vehicle as well as the wiring will come up. It has installation instructions posted for the hitches and often have youtube videos to show the installation as well. Follow the link:
http://www.hitchweb.com/trailer-hitch-search

Did anyone find out if the 2011 has the pre-wiring for the hitch? If so where?
I can't find any info on the 2011 models, the manual doesn't say either.

Hello. I have just bought this wire harness from Curt http://www.curtmfg.com/part/56033 and as I took apart my car and noticed that I have the pre-wiring. My question is that since it does not have the harness like the Professional Wiring does can I just splice the curt one to the pre-wiring?

okhomer wrote:Hello. I have just bought this wire harness from Curt http://www.curtmfg.com/part/56033 and as I took apart my car and noticed that I have the pre-wiring. My question is that since it does not have the harness like the Professional Wiring does can I just splice the curt one to the pre-wiring?

so the item you bought- it was already in your car? was the wire from the battery already ran as well?

ImStricken wrote:so the item you bought- it was already in your car? was the wire from the battery already ran as well?

No. I still needed to buy what I bought. What I bought has a wire that is long enough to run to the battery like in this video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=upsn8XsdfNw

After taking all the parts out of the back I noticed that I have a an extra wire that has an adapter that would fit the wire that is attached to the fuse from this harness

What I am trying to find out is if I can just splice and crimp the one wire from the harness that goes to the battery to the 2 wires that are attached to a white plug.

I think this is right per step 9 in this post how-to-trailer-light-wiring-t333642.html but the pictures are no longer there so I can't be sure.

okhomer wrote:

ImStricken wrote:What I am trying to find out is if I can just splice and crimp the one wire from the harness that goes to the battery to the 2 wires that are attached to a white plug.

I think this is right per step 9 in this post how-to-trailer-light-wiring-t333642.html but the pictures are no longer there so I can't be sure.

if im not mistaken, the red wire is fused? = if its the one thats fused, you can splice and crimp to the wire that you think is running to the battery IF ITS ACTUALLY RUNNING TO THE BATTERY. the best way to tell is take a grounded tester and touch the wire you think is running to the battery to confirm power.

Then the white wire in that loom should be ground, and should be cut & grounded.

After installing the hitch, now it is time to find a bike rack. What do you think about the platform bike racks? I read some reviews about the hanging type ones and people said the bikes move a lot. The platform is safer and not need for an adapter for my wife's bike...My only problem is those things are expensive in Canada. The cheapest one from SportRack is 210$...

Qashqai wrote:After installing the hitch, now it is time to find a bike rack.

Hey sQash, (i love calling you that "sqash" lol- hope you dont mind )
just a word of advice, for the bike racks... up until a few years ago, i worked as a Patrolman for 6 years(prior to the major fiscal cut-backs ). I wouldnt personally write for this, but i know of some guys that would - "unclear plates" due to the bikes covering up the plate.

just something to keep in mind. (idk how strict the cops are in canada)

you can call me whatever you want ImStricken, since that is my nick name, I don't mind. I know it is illegal to cover the lamps and licençe plate but everyone around me has a bike rack and I dont hear anyone get a ticket for that. I don't want to carry bikes on my roof and can't afford a trailer for two bicycles..so rack is my only option...but thank you for your advice...