I remember reading details about this before but have been unable to find it. Since those with tranny problems have learned in some cases that their tranny fluid was black with metal shavings, it would be nice to be able to monitor this for peace-of-mind. I want to be able to monitor my tranny fluid and ensure it looks like new with no suspended solids or dark color - I'm not real worried about it now, but I'd like to check it througout the life of the vehicle and particularily towards the end of my warranty, so if there are problems it can be brought to the dealers attention before the warranty runs out.

Is this something that I could do myself?

Ok, I just found another post with a text description of how to check the fluid, but no description of exactly where this is located

cvt-oil-t315035.html

Does anyone think that it may NOT be a good idea to check this on your own, as it is not typically recommended as a DIY check?

Disclaimer: If you are unfamiliar with checking fluid levels and/or working on your car, do not attempt the following procedure.

The CVT fluid dipstick is located near the battery. It has a locking tab. To release it, use a small blunt object (a small screwdriver) and insert it into the square tab release hole on the side (faces the drivers side headlamp) while pulling up on the dipstick. Be careful as the locking tab is plastic and may break off if forced.

The Nissan NS-2 CVT fluid is normally a light amber color. I checked mine and it was clean. I do not have the rattle BTW.

The procedure for chacking fluid level is similar to most automatic transmissions. Here is the entire procedure for checking fluid level from the FSM:

Warning: In step 5, make sure you return the shifter to Park!

I added this post to the Rogue FAQ Sticky.

My salesman warned me about Quick Lube places getting people to change their tranny fluid when they didn't need to simply based on the color of the fluid. He said you cannot evaluate the fluid based on color, but rather the Nissan service dept has equipment that evaluates it on a 1-10 scale in terms of it needing replacement.

He said a Murano with 220,000 kms had just been tested, and even though the fluid was black there was plenty of life left in the fluid.

I plan on getting my fluid changed and the pickup filter changed/flushed as per the premium maintenance schedule. The CVT fliud is synthetic and expensive ($25/qt).

I know that the fluid will still be fine. I am having it changed because I want all the initial wear metal accumulation gone from the system. After that, I will not have it changed again until at least 150K or more.

On another note, I am curious about the people who post that their fluid has gone dark. That is almost certainly a sign of high tranny temps. I cannot hardly see that happening unless they are towing or transmission cooling is not working.

Question: Does the CVT use the radiator for cooling like other automatic transmissions?

It has a torque convertor, which is normally the source of heat in other auto trannies, so it must need cooling. In other auto trannies, the fluid goes through the radiator for cooling right after the torque convertor, and then to the valve body and band and clutch lubrication.

pedror wrote:He said you cannot evaluate the fluid based on color, but rather the Nissan service dept has equipment that evaluates it on a 1-10 scale in terms of it needing replacement.

The Transmission Control Module has some sort of transmission fluid monitor. I'm not exactly sure how it works, but it simply provides a number. The tech scans it using the CONSULT diagnostic tool and if it's above a certain value, the fluid needs to be changed. Once the fluid is changed, this number is reset to 0 using the CONSULT tool.

Superdave54 wrote:Question: Does the CVT use the radiator for cooling like other automatic transmissions?

Depending on model (AWD or FWD?), the CVT uses one or both cooling systems:

A) A heat exchanger built into the transmission that transfers heat from the fluid to the engine's cooling system. Coolant is circulated from the engine via piping to the heat exchanger mounted to the side of the transmission.

B) A seperate radiator type transmission cooler mounted in front of the engine's radiator. It's a seperate radiator, not integrated with the engine radiator.

I'm curious if anybody else check stheir CVT fluid, in particular those of you who are experiencing CVT problems?

philipa_240sx wrote:The Transmission Control Module has some sort of transmission fluid monitor. I'm not exactly sure how it works, but it simply provides a number. The tech scans it using the CONSULT diagnostic tool and if it's above a certain value, the fluid needs to be changed. Once the fluid is changed, this number is reset to 0 using the CONSULT tool.

Can anyone confirm if this is true? It sounds unlikely to me that the Rogue has a sensor to determine the fluid condition and when the fluid needs to be changed. If so, I should never need to have it checked for condition, only the fluid level needs to be checked. Also, if this is true, will the Check Engine light come on when the TCM identifies that the fluid requires changing? I doubt this is true, because the owners who had serious CVT failures and reports from their service dept. of metal shavings etc. in the fluid of the replaced CVT, I never heard anyone reporting a check engine light coming on. Can anyone provide clarification on this?

pedror wrote:My salesman warned me about Quick Lube places getting people to change their tranny fluid when they didn't need to simply based on the color of the fluid. He said you cannot evaluate the fluid based on color, but rather the Nissan service dept has equipment that evaluates it on a 1-10 scale in terms of it needing replacement.

He said a Murano with 220,000 kms had just been tested, and even though the fluid was black there was plenty of life left in the fluid.

Yes, exactly what my dealer said as well. I won't be fooling with that dipstick.

kerrton wrote:Can anyone confirm if this is true? It sounds unlikely to me that the Rogue has a sensor to determine the fluid condition and when the fluid needs to be changed.

Yes, the CVT fluid 'condition' is calculated by the transmission computer. However, the manual is not clear on how this fluid condition is calculated. It may be an algorithm based on mileage/usage parameters and not a sensor.

More and more in modern cars, sensors (expensive and subject to failure or drifting) are replaced by computers' algorithms elaborated by the manufacturers.And, from what I experimented with my wife's Honda car (algorithm calculating when to change the oil vs analysis of the used oil), they are pretty much spot on, with some margin to avoid any problem.I have no doubt Nissan engineers are as good as Honda ones to create these types of algorithm based of a lot of experimenting and previous cars feedbacks.

Checked my fluid and it looked very clean and transparent with a slight light amber color but basically transparent, and the level was where it should be (odo says 45,000 km, mostly city driving).

This is really no different than checking the engine oil other than the little lock feature at the top of the dipstick which is very easy to release. Just remember to use a lint free cloth to wipe the dipstick.

Is there a way to check the tranny fluid on the 2015 rogue, without having to crawl under the car and remove the fill plug? Thanks for any information.
Dan

Buy 5 feet of 8mm max outside diameter clear fuel line tubing and a gear lube pump. All less than $20. Insert one end of the tubing into the suction end of the pump and the other end down the CVT fill tube. Pump out a sample. Remove the tubing from the fill tube and pump the excess back into the CVT.

I was referring to checking the tranny fluid level to see if I need to add fluid and are you saying there is a fill tube on top the tranny, if so were is it located? My manual says to worm the engine, shift the trans through all shifting ranges than to park, remove fill plug from under the car while engine is running if small amount of fluid comes out, than tranny is OK, if not add fluid until is at the top of fill plug threads. Is this right? Or can I add fluid from the top fill tube until fluid comes out the CVT fill plug hole on bottom side of CVT?

danrog1 wrote:I was referring to checking the tranny fluid level to see if I need to add fluid and are you saying there is a fill tube on top the tranny, if so were is it located? My manual says to worm the engine, shift the trans through all shifting ranges than to park, remove fill plug from under the car while engine is running if small amount of fluid comes out, than tranny is OK, if not add fluid until is at the top of fill plug threads. Is this right? Or can I add fluid from the top fill tube until fluid comes out the CVT fill plug hole on bottom side of CVT?

It sounds like that year of Rogue do not have the fill tube on top. Based on your manual, the way to check is to jack the car up, make sure car is level, start the engine, crawl down and remove the fill plug, if fluid comes out, you are good. If not, top it off until it reaches the fill plug threads. Note that fluid in the pan is slightly higher when the engine is off so I would not remove the fill plug with the engine off because more fluid will come out as a result of higher level in the pan when the engine is off versus engine running.

[quote=" ... Just remember to use a lint free cloth to wipe the dipstick.[/quote]

The above posted diagram says " lint-free paper, not cloth".


Apologies, just believed that needed to be pointed out.

The funny thing is..... I just checked my tranny fluid just 30 minutes ago...with a paper restaurant napkin no less.

And it actually looks like the way Kerrton describes his, but mine obviously is 6 years later.

BTW I have a 2009 AWD.

I guess I am one of the lucky ones who never had a transmission problem. My Rogue has a little under 75,000 miles and consider myself light on the gas peddle.

So because of the history of Nissan's CVT's, I have been a little paranoid even though I have the extended warranty.

A few visits ago at my dealership, they wanted to flush my CVT but I have not decided back then since I am having no problems.

Anyways, I have been preparing the past couples of weeks reading about the CVT draining, flushing, here and on YouTube.

Bought some CVT fluid from eBay and everything.

But now after inspecting my fluid, with it being so clear and clean and noticing that the level was in the perfect location on the crosshatch of the stick, I'm thinking why mess with perfection.

Well I might go another 10,000-20,000 miles.

Now all I am stressing is on the napkin particles that have infiltrated the cvt universe. LOL!


First, they say in the beginning it's a lifetime fluid not to messed with.

Then it seems CVT's were failing left and right which seemed the norm.

Then not to touch the CVT during warranty period or perhaps get blamed for goofing something up.

Then it is recommended to do a flush.

....But NOT at the dealership because their machines would supposedly mix old transmission debris from other cars with yours.

Now it's ok to do a drain & fill since a flush is optional. But done a few times to get most of the debris out.

Damn YouTube, life was better when I just check my tires.

Now I am able to change oil, well of course that, but now I can change my engine and cabin air filter, clean an O2 sensor, change differential & transfer fluids, hardwire a dashcam, and a few days ago changed my spark plugs! And seriously, I thought spark plug changing was some secret society knowledge stuff! ......And get this, my spark plugs looked to be in very good condition! argghh!

Now I might be planning to change my rear shocks.

Trust me I am far from a mechanic, just learned online.

So decisions, decisions.

I've changed the fluid on my 2011, at just about 50k miles. I think the recommended interval is 40k. Your car, your call. As far as changing rear shocks if you can brush your teeth you can do rear shocks.

Surprisingly I just found out how easy it is with the shocks.

I'm an old fart, but back in the day I perceived shocks as difficult dealership level repairs.

Fine, I admit I was not a garage type of kid growing up.

My brother is scary worse, he does not know how to change oil, the hardest thing he can do is rinse a car with a hose and never wipes or waxes.

He can't even change wipers or batteries on a key fob.

But the internet and youtube is like revealing a magicians secret in the auto field world.

I'm really impressed with myself and my accomplishments.

Yeah I bought my first car at 19, my Dad was friends with a local dealer so he always bought and took his cars there for repair. Once in a while he might change a radiator or something similar but usually he let them handle it.

When I bought my first car I was in California, and when it came time to drive across country I mentioned to a buddy of mine I needed to make an appointment to get a tune up. He says to me " I'll show you how" and thus it began. At first I would do my own because I couldn't afford to allow the dealer to do it. Then as I got older and became friends with a local dealer I let them handle it. He went out of business , I started back at it because I didn't trust anyone else. Now I've come to the conclusion I like to do it.

So I collect tools and keep my vehicles and my kids vehicles running. I just had a timing belt mishap with my primary driver apparently a little stone somehow got under the belt cover and into the belt path and stripped off eight inches of teeth. That would be easily fixable except my car is a diesel and Diesel engines are interference engines. Meaning more than one or two teeth off and the valves hit the pistons. I lost 19 teeth. Ouch. Engine swap time.

Why would I ever drive a diesel you wonder? Well 50-55 mpg in the summer 45-49 in the winter. 7-800 miles on a tankful of fuel that's 14.5 us gallons just in case anyone is curious. I do a lot of driving and right now I'm using my Rouge and the partly 26-29 mpg is killing me.

You can always learn. Rear shocks are usually one bolt on the bottom and two on top, with some variations of course. Sometimes the top bolts directly to the frame sometimes there is a shock mount of some kind. My brother is the same way when his car is acting up he calls me. Oil change, plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, shocks, ball joints, whatever is wrong "if I get the parts can you do this" ?

I agree you tube is the diy mechanics best friend.