Post by
Tofubadguy »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/tofubadguy-u91938.html
Sun Aug 16, 2009 12:40 pm
Well I've got a 90' 240sx coupe.
I'm going to put the RB26 & transmission with all the front drive gear into the car also. I'm going to move the firewall back a couple of inches to help out with front fan/radiator/piping/intercooler room as well as front drive shaft geometry.
I want to do away with the semi-goofy front skyline upper suspension mounts & replace it with just a plain & simple adjustable strut which will attach to the spindle/bearing carrier like it usually would on nearly all other cars. The spindle/bearing carrier is regular cast steel & will weld beautifully, so I'll make a bolt through mount coming of the top of it for, as I said, just a regular adjustable coilover. Being that the case I can move the pivot center in as much as I want, not sure how much until I start cutting & measuring, but enough to have plenty of clearance for fairly/very wide treads. As long as my bearing center is near the pivot center, (ie. strut top & ball joint lower) I can do whatever I want/need to.
The strut towers will wind up being a little of both I assume. Some of the 240 & some of the Skyline front clip. I know I'm going to graft nearly all of the skyline unibody frame rails into the 240 to get the front axle clearance dips & engine cross member mounting points... well I think anyway.
The rear I plan on doing whatever I need to to give me clearance. It doesn't bother me a bit to do a little "tub" job back there. I'll eventually get some type of posi-family rear to match the 4.11's in the front, axle/axle flange swaps of whatever is needed to jive, or an entire rear swap since I'm gonna wind up with the 5 X 4.5's anyway... As far as suspension links I'll wind up doing whatever measures to give me the geometry & most leeway all around, ie. cut/splice/weld/extend, etc... I hate short arm suspension, it's so violent & ugly!
The 'frame rails' & fender wells in front of the strut towers will all be cut off in exchange for tubing, 1/8" angle & aluminum sheet... So I'm not limited except for staying inside the fender & bumper skins.
In other words room won't be that much of an issue as far as being restricted goes. My original thought was to get a rough idea what was available out there as far as measurements (widths & offsets)/clearance for the wheels that are available and what people are getting them for, finding something I like & I'd like to build to, & then using them as one of my standards/constants to measure off of.
I want to see wheel specs! I can't make wheels,... I can make everything else & however I need it. Know what I mean?
I eventually want to wind up with 18's all the way around with room to spare to go up to 20's if I want to. Somewhere in the neighborhood of 9 or 10's for the back & 8 to 9' in the front, & of course the same over all tire circumferences. As far as fender well sheet metal clearance goes, I'll probably do a combination of sniping the factory lip out & moving it up a few inches combined with widening some on all four corners.
I've been to see the Full Race R14 in downtown Phoenix. I spent a few hours there talking to them & just checking it out. It's cool & all for being one of the few front drive 240's out there, but they were restricted to the idea of making a prototype for a 'bolt on' kit they could sell to the average Joe. It kept them from doing some things I want to do, & since I have no such restrictions....
Russell
Modified by Tofubadguy at 4:50 PM 8/16/2009